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Radio Question


Oldguy48

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I'm in the midst of re-assembling my P15 dashboard after repainting, and my radio (an 802) had only one hex nut, and one knurled nut threaded on the knob threaded bushings. I think there should be hex nuts behind the dashboard to provide adjustment for alignment, and knurled ones on the face of the dashboard. Is that correct? And if it is, does anyone have an extra one of each? I tried to find replacements at the hardware store to no avail.:confused:

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You're in luck! I searched for over a year trying to find the correct nut to secure the volume and tuning arms to the dash. Assuming all these radios use the same size, you can get them at McMaster-Carr. Not cheap at $6.59 each, plus shipping. Below is a link. Zeke

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91862a320/=4ymfh1

Thank you!:)

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You're in luck! I searched for over a year trying to find the correct nut to secure the volume and tuning arms to the dash. Assuming all these radios use the same size, you can get them at McMaster-Carr. Not cheap at $6.59 each, plus shipping. Below is a link. Zeke

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91862a320/=4ymfh1

I just got those nuts from McMaster-Carr. Perfect fit:D

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I'm not so sure you need a nut behind the dash on the knobs. Mine does not have them. Just the ones that go on the outside of the dash. The radio is actually held in place by a bracket under the dash on the back side near the firewall. As for alignment that is done by the radio face. Would be impossible to get it crooked. All my radio has is the nuts that tighten against the front side of the dash, a spacer cover over that, then the knobs. He's a shot I got from a sight on the Pilot House site that shows the 802 radio. Same radio is used in the trucks for those years in question as are in our P15's. There's also a lot of other good 802 radio facts (brochure) on this link. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/802/imgcol/contact_1.htm

_00002.jpg

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I don't think there are any nuts behind the dash on the shafts.....just the sorta thin

ones on the front that hold the radio in place. The radio has to come forward far

enough to be flush with the edge of the opening in the dash. I don't know how nuts

on the backside would influence this.

Then, the radio is supported under the dash by the bracket that also holds the

cowl vent lever, as I recall. Haven't taken out my radio in a while now, so don't

remember exactly. Let us know how it works out.

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My radio was inoperative, and I'm rewiring for 12 volt anyway, so in order to keep the dashboard's stock appearance, I removed the front portion of the radio to re-install in the dash. The unit fit in OK, but the threaded bushings protrude through the dashboard a bit farther than I would like. The knobs can't push on quite far enough to hide the mounting nuts. Not a big deal though. I'll try to post a pic of the dashboard later today.

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My radio was inoperative, and I'm rewiring for 12 volt anyway, so in order to keep the dashboard's stock appearance, I removed the front portion of the radio to re-install in the dash. The unit fit in OK, but the threaded bushings protrude through the dashboard a bit farther than I would like. The knobs can't push on quite far enough to hide the mounting nuts. Not a big deal though. I'll try to post a pic of the dashboard later today.

I'm pleased with the way this is turning out.

post-1572-13585352821314_thumb.jpg

post-1572-13585352822103_thumb.jpg

post-1572-13585352822909_thumb.jpg

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The digital gauges are actually digital voltmeters. I was looking for replacements for the original gauges, and stumbled across them. They fit perfectly into the instrument cluster. The only range meters that I could get at the time was 0-100 Volt DC meters. I built a 100 VDC power supply, based on a Duracell 100W inverter, a bridge rectifier, & filter capacitor. The meters require a 5 VDC regulated power source to operate. That was accomplished with a solid state 5 volt regulator chip. That's as far as I've gotten so far. A scaling circuit will be needed for the temperature gauge, the fuel level gauge, and the oil pressure gauge to produce a reasonably accurate indication. The voltmeter will just be connected across one of the "hot" circuits. I'll have to look back in my records for the source of the meters. (It'a been a while ago). I'll probably install a set of regular gauges, until I get the bugs worked out of the digital units.

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