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Aluminum head instillation


fdwrench

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1) that head on view of your engine is an awesome view. I saved it, might print it on photo paper and put it in my office, would for sure if it were mine.

2) why do studs torque differently than head bolts?

3) need a replacement block in Northern Calif. PM me I have one, pistons and all, no head.

Question: The posts regarding head gaskets and chemicalization only applies to alluminum heads, on cast iron blocks, right?

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Studs have fine threads on the top! Good to know. Did they use studs in order to attach things like: oil filter, spark plug holder, etc. My engine has some bolts and some studs. I went all bolts, may change acouple to mount the oil filter. There are some mounting bolts on the side of the block but they do not match the filter mount.

Going to use all NEW bolts/studs next time. Appreciate the information.

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I did seal the studs I used Indian head gasket shellac. I have used it before and have not had a problem.

I am not sure if it is the fright stuff. I did take the three studs out that were leaking and resealed them and dumped a little Alumaseal in.

I drove it for a few miles and as if now it is not leaking.

I heard after the fact to use flat gaskets on the plugs or flatten the crush ones before installing. Less likely to scar the head

How long would you wait before re-torquing?

Thank you all.

Ed

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Studs have fine threads on the top! Good to know. Did they use studs in order to attach things like: oil filter, spark plug holder, etc. My engine has some bolts and some studs. I went all bolts, may change acouple to mount the oil filter. There are some mounting bolts on the side of the block but they do not match the filter mount.

Going to use all NEW bolts/studs next time. Appreciate the information.

I prefer studs for the simple reason that if you manage to get them to seal (I've had great luck using Permatex aviation form-a-gasket, a vile looking brown liquid that works really well) you won't ever have a leaking problem again, because the sealed threads never have to be unscrewed again.

I found some stainless studs that I have used for my waterpump (yeah, I'll have to pull the radiator the next time I need to change the waterpump), and even my valvecovers (because I was having a hard time getting the bolts to start into the backside of the lifter valley with my cast aluminum covers). I've been switching every bolt that goes into a water passage to studs whenever I can. The thermostat housing will be next, but it's sealed up now, so I'm not touching it for a while!

Marty

Edited by martybose
stupid typos!
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Marty, the top of the head at each bolt hole is raised as if to be the washer. Do you, and others, use washers, lock washers, nothing?

Do you insert and tighten the studs before the head goes on?

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Marty, the top of the head at each bolt hole is raised as if to be the washer. Do you, and others, use washers, lock washers, nothing?

Do you insert and tighten the studs before the head goes on?

I always use the hardened parallel-ground washers that ARP supplies, with both the washer and the nut oiled. You really don't want to torque the nut down onto an aluminum surface, as they will usually gall.

The studs are installed with sealer (Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket is my preference) and just hand-tightened into the block; you want them bottomed out but not significantly tightened up. I always install the studs first, let them sit a while, then install the head gasket, the head, then the washers and nuts, oiled as mentioned.

I'm a bit anal about torquing, but time is cheap. So I start at 30 lbs., then 45, 50, and finally 55. I keep going around at 55 until none move any more, then I fire up the engine and warm it up, then retorque again at 55, then go for a drive and retorque at 55. If none of them move at that point, then I'm done; if any of them moved, the next time I drive the car I'll retorque them again until none of them move when I retorque them.

Needless to say, retorquing requires planning if you don't want to disassemble things every time; I use an AN fitting on the back of the head for the water connection so that I can move things enough to get to the right rear head stud, and an odd collection of sockets and crows feet to get under the linkage mount on my Edmunds manifold. YMMV.

Marty

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  • 4 weeks later...
Wicked expensive, around $650 last time I checked... But, brand new, and by the time you pay through the nose for a vintage head that has already been milled to death, has chipped fins, and stripped spark plug holes, they are a bargain in my opinion. That is, if you really want a finned head.

On a 230, the Edgy head gives you 9:1 compression. Factory was around 7:1. I've driven mine halfway across the country and back, and use it for a daily driver when there isn't snow on the ground. I haven't had a single issue with the head, and would do it all over again, assuming I'd ever have the cash for another...

Here's a link to Earl Edgerton's website. I've met Earl on several occasions on the Salt Flats and watched him make his maiden run with an EDGY equipped Chrysler long block. He's a great guy, and turns out great stuff.

Pete

Thanks for posting Earl's site. The old one went out of service. I spoke with him a while back and at the time he only had a stock chamber/stock outside 251/265 head with no fins. Looks like he refined it to the same standard as the little six head.

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