boxer_inv Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 Hi Seems the final hurdle on my rewiring journey is now facing me. The generator doesn't seem to be putting anything out... Before my rewire of the car, when the key was switched on, the ammeter went just left of '0', indicating draw from the coil off the battery. Once the car started, the ammeter always went over to the '+' side, showing charging back into the battery. Even at a low idle, it was always on the '+' side. Of course, after plenty of cranking etc, he ammeter read higher at first, and then went down, indicating that the regulator was doing its job. Unfortunately, this isn't happening now.... I have the generator wires hooked up correctly - field terminal (small terminal on the generator) to the field 'F' terminal on the regulator, Armature cable to the 'A' terminal on the reg. Now I've researched the heck out of the forum archives on this one. I see there is always plenty of discussion about polarizing the generator via the regulator - however this is normally when the gen has been serviced. Mine didn't get taken out of the car during the rewire...so shouldn't need this? I also see a test whereby the field wire can be removed from the regulator and taken to ground - this should peg the ammeter to the '+' side of the gauge. I've done this test - nothing. no movement in the gauge at all. The other indcators which alert me are that with the headlight switch pulled on, the ammeter goes right down into '-' territory and stays there, no matter the revs...and the instrument lights (yep - I've got those now!!) don't brighten with any revving of the engine. Seems something is amiss somewhere...? Is there a way that a multimeter can be hooked up to test for current/amp/voltage off the generator when the engine is running. I can't quite work out which way to read this circuit... I've checked all the terminals - seem tight and have good connections. Any suggestions for tests, or perhaps restate the tests that I need to be doing to see the problem. I can't believe that the generator would stop working just because of a re-wire elsewhere - like I said, I didn't touch it. How does one 'test' a regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 Simple test, is to temprarily ground the field terminal with a jumper wire withthe egine at idle, this should peg the ammeter to full charge. If so the gen is OK. Seems to me if the gen was working before the re wire, it should be OK and the fault is likely in the wire to the regulator or to the ammeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted October 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Greg I've now tried that test (again) - nuth'in... Grounded the field wire, no movement from ammeter at all. Tried several ground points with same nil result. Even tried a different wire, no different. I thought about the wire to the ammeter to the regulator, but I get a full reading of voltage on this regulator terminal. Given that the current has to get there from the battery-starter solenoid-ammeter-across ammeter-regulator, the wire is good. Also, ammeter shows '0' when IGN is off - but still voltage at the battery terminal of the regulator - so all is fine. IGN switch on = minor ammeter drop, indicating the suck on the current from the coil. So, that leaves either the generator or the regulator... Take the generator out and have it tested? I guess there is a chance that something was not right when I first had my starting problem, and this has somehow maifested in the generator, but I'm struggling to see how. Especially given that I haven't touched the generator, save for taking old wires off and putting new ones on. And yes...this IS fun, even though its frustrating:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 are you doing this test only with the dash ampmeter? or do you have a hand held meter to test the gernerator ouput itself?..I ask as this was after a rewire of a car working prior..there is still some chance of a wire out of place.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Saraceno Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 It's hard to figure out what the problem might be from the information given. The problem could be in the generator, regulator or ammeter. Each one of those has a whole series of tests, both in engine and on bench, it would take a long time to go through them all. If you don't have a manual that goes through those tests, PM me and I can scan my manuals and email them to you. I would think you could get a good idea where the problem is by using a multi-meter to read voltage at 1. the generator 2. the regulator and 3. the battery at different speeds. I noticed before that you said you didn't think you needed to polarize the generator, I'm thinking you do. I assume you have checked and double checked the wiring against a wiring diagram and have determined everything is connected properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted October 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Had the generator tested yesterday by an auto electrician - tested out fine, so that piece of this puzzle is done... I'll be be attacking this problem again later today after work...but in the meantime have a query: Question I have in relation to the Regulator - does this have to be grounded to the body of the car? If so, is this simply by the body of the regulator contacting the fender by the mounting screws? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Yes. The regulator functions by being grounded to the car body. Make sure your mount screws have a washer that will dig into the metal and that the metal where the regulator mounts is not painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 just for giggles..run yourself a nice ground wire from the rear of the engine to the body in a plce out of sight..just can't even get too good a ground.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 just for giggles..run yourself a nice ground wire from the rear of the engine to the body in a plce out of sight..just can't even get too good a ground.. You know Tim, I had that idea floating in my head already...so I think you might be right in what you say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Hi - update Put the generator back in, fully charged battery, and reinstalled the regulator making sure that the ground contact points were clean. Started her up - ammeter went way up into the '+' side of gauge, and then with idling gradually came down towards '0'. Took Dorothy for a run - all gauges working - oil pressure good, temp good, amps good, fuel gauge good. I'm thinking that it may have been a grounding issue somewhere in there... So - after my complete rewire - Dorothy seems to be back to full working condition. I'm really happy....!!! Now.....what's the next job...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Well........I nominate the front end rebuilt or rear brakes.........yeh....rear brakes...........you reckon the wiring was fun.........you ain't seen nothin' till you spend a few enjoyable hours, days, weeks trying to remove the rear brake drums..........lol.............and you're not allowed to use a puller larger than, say 6" diameter............now.......this'll show what fun is..........btw you really did a great job on the wiring..............congratulations.......andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Well........I nominate the front end rebuilt or rear brakes.........yeh....rear brakes...........you reckon the wiring was fun.........you ain't seen nothin' till you spend a few enjoyable hours, days, weeks trying to remove the rear brake drums..........lol.............and you're not allowed to use a puller larger than, say 6" diameter............now.......this'll show what fun is..........btw you really did a great job on the wiring..............congratulations.......andyd Based on threads I've read about removal of rear drums... nah...you know....I just don't have a big enough BFH for that job!?! Front end...? well... you be the judge from these photos of some of Dorothy's underpinnings... There is a chance they could do with some tidying up:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Looks like you have a leaky wheel cylider on the front road side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxer_inv Posted October 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Looks like you have a leaky wheel cylider on the front road side. Your road side or my road side??!!!??? Seriously, those photos were taken before I had some brake work done - so I know that there are no leaks at the moment. However, it isn't much cleaner than that still.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 17, 2009 Report Share Posted October 17, 2009 yours!!!! having good brakes is a good thing.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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