moxieforme2 Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Removed freeze plugs cleaned with high pressure, air, and wire coat hanger prior to attempts to remove the distribution tube. Used the 3/4 X 13 steel ruler hammered on both sides to reduce or lessen any rust bond between the tube and the block. Two months now of soaking, and constant moderate pressure. Still hasn't moved. So...I rigged 5/16" stainless rope passing through both sides of the tube, clamped and connected to a scissor jack thats straddled on two 2X4's to achieve a mechanical advantage, with enough strain as to not rip out the tubes side walls. I wet it every day or two with PB blaster, xmission fluid, brake fluid, mystery oil and add a little more pressure every day. (before I got down to business with the scissor jack). Even used mep gas to heat the water jacked ports on top and adjacent to the distribution tube while under the aforementioned strain. Any one else ever have or had as much an issue with the "rust" distribution tube. I still confident it's just a matter of time persistence and 8nH2Otubes @#!%! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted August 15, 2009 Report Share Posted August 15, 2009 Jim , If your engine is out of the truck , a last resort is to drill a hole , perhaps 3/4 inch in the rear of the block so that you can get at it from both ends . My rebuilder did this on my engine . Find the right size welch plug first . I repeat , last resort . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 If you care to take the time to read your archives, there are many guys before you who have had the same problem. Several have made a flat tool with hooks on it which is made to slide inside the tube and catch the water slots along the length of the tube. Then you just clamp a vise grip onto the tool and pound it out. Many have found the same problem you encountered. Just takes a little patience and ingenuity. You'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billwillard Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Weld something to it that you can get a crowbar under and pull it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 I struggled removing mine a couple of years ago. I finally clamped the edge of the tube shut and drilled a 1/8" hole and attached a shackle eye, then connected a come along and started pulling until no more. Stopped and tapped the tube back towards rear. After a day or two there was a slight give. Once you have even the slightest movement, out, then in, out, then in....it will eventually free up. The harder we try, there is no better feeling to see the tube slipping out of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 In the Technical Archives section there is a Water Distribution R&R sticky. I built the puller described by Young Ed and it worked for me. You might want to check it out. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 I also fashioned a puller from discriptions/photos posted. It worked great! Here it is... http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c141/shephatchery/?action=view¤t=tubepuller.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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