grey beard Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I'm about to replace a floor pan on my B1B pickup. I have a nice donor pan to use for replacement, so the repair panel should be a good fit if I trim carefully. My quesion is this: Is butt welding of dsheet metal panels superior to overlapping the patch over the parent metal? Seems to me that I could make an oversize patch, drill holes in the edges and resette weld through the holes to get the job done with less heat and warpage, but I've never done this. Might make clamping and alignment easier too. Which method is stronger? Do any of you have experience in this area you might be willing to share? I'll be using a mig/gas machine. Could also oxycetylent weld or braze, but my understanding is that these options are not as strong. Suggestions or ideas? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I prefer butt welds..others overlay and drill holes to use Cleco clamps to hold panel in place...and then you have those that use the flanging tool that makes a recessed shelf for the panel to lie in and then weld..the key is fullperimeter weld for max strength and watertight integrity to prevent future corrosion. Actually I have used all the above and it is according to the area and how much room you have for working whatever clamp/device you use plus access to back of the weld for final prep. I do not care nor recommend pop rivets or sheet metal screws unless they are your only method to hold in place while welding and are removed after the weld and hole also welded in. Hope this links to my earlier post and shows the buttweld of the bear claw donor latches from the 91 Dynasty onto my 41 Dodge..these clamps are fantastic as they really will prevent a lot of sheetmetal buckling...and if you have access to the rear of the weld, very easy to use...I recommend you having these if you do panel repair.. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 If you over lap then you will have to seal the side opposite the weld to prevent water penetration into the joint causing more rust. With butt welding you have no water pocket to cause rust. Unless you never drive in rain or wash the bottom side of your truck then the only moisture that could enter the lapped joint would be the moisture in the air and the temperature differential between the inside and the outside drawing the moisture into the joint causing rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Faust Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Butt welding is stronger and less prone to rust.... to get your fit, lay your panel on the area you want to cut out, trace around it, then cut it out (beware not to cut the frame too where it is attached to the floor. Also, there are big panel magnets available to help align the panel, or small clamps that actually leave a weld sized seam while holding the panel together. Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob westphal Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 Tim, Do you have a photo of those clamps you used on the door by its self?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 not yet but give me a bit of time and will post them...you may find them on the Harbor Freight home page..either way..I will send phot and their part number later..catching a bit to eat and will be back in the shop in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 Tim, Do you have a photo of those clamps you used on the door by its self?? Bob..here are three pics Pic of butt weld clamps and cleco set up: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0127Image0001.jpg Picture of the clamp in question..exploded view: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0127Image0002.jpg Picture of clamp in action this is how it maintains your gap and still holds your stock: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2003_0127Image0003.jpg You should be able to see the Harbor Freight part number on the bag of new one that I show. By and far an excellent clamp IF you have access from both sides so as to retrieve the square bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.P_46 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hi Bob, http://www.eastwoodco.com/ has the Cleco sets and clamps. The Cleco's are a great thing to have if you do any kind of sheet metal work. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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