Arthur1947 Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Last weekend I managed to start my car for the first time. To be cautious I decided to clean out the gas tank before running it long enough to warm up to operating temp. My p15 ran for about ten seconds before it cut out. I was not getting gas so I pulled the fuel pump and cleaned it out thoroughly. The diaphram was in good shape but there was much setiment in it. After cleaning and reassembly I tested it by pushing the rocker arm and it sucked and pumped just fine. I ran the compressor through the main line before before reconnecting to the tank and there was no blockage. I can only deduce I have something electrical wrong as I disconnected the wires(not plug wires.Those are where they should be) to the distributor and coil while tightening up some oil lines. I added a little gas down each carb throat but it it does not want to turn over, as though it is not getting adequate fuel. It will run briefly then dies. I'm still on a 6v positive ground system. The red wire from my harness is going in the negative side on the coil and the black wire along with the dist. wire to pos.. Does that sound right? I'm lost. Any ideas? Best. ARTHUR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chester Brzostowski Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Arthur, If it runs briefly then dies it sounds more like gas then spark. Maybe the problem is in the carburetor. Maybe the float chamber isn't filling properly or the float valve is not letting enough gas into the carb. That is if everything is working fine up to the fuel pump. Just my two cents... Chet… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Art, couple things fuel delivery wise. Quick check of pump flow by disconnecting the coil wire, then disconnect the line from the pump to the carb. Feed the fuel line into a suitable container a plastic beverage container will work fine. then with an assistant, crank the engine with the starter while counting fuel pump strokes. You should see good strong pulses of fuel. seven strokes of the pump should yield 7 to 10 ounces of gas in the bottle. If its less you have a restriction somewhere. Is your rubber line fromthe pump to the front cross member in good shape??? They may look fine externally but be gooey inside, enough so that the suction from the pump will cause the line to collapse and stop flow. Think arterial schlorosis. the other thing to do is to flow some low pressure compressed air back through the line to the tank. Bubbles heard at the filler cap will assure the lines are clear, and will also help clear the oilite filter bolck in the tank. Once you assure everything is clear, you should be good to go fuel wise. Also check the needle and seat in the float bowl, doesn't take much to foul up a new clean system. Then pull you plugs and make sure they are still clean. Doesn't take much poor running to screw up the plugs, specially if the engine hasn't run long enough to get to operating temp. Then assure your plug wires and coil wires are in and fully seated in the dist cap, coil and plugs. And Double check that the wires are correct. I had a proble when I tried to start my rebuild and the double check revealed that even though the wires were correct fo rht firing order, I was one tower off on the cap. re allignment got her fired up right away. Hope this helps, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 A lot of folks start their post by saying my engine won't crank or turn over. My thought on that is that the starter is not operating since the starter turns the flywheel which cranks the engine, thus turning it over. When what they mean is the engine may try to start but won't run. So.......... Won't crank, or turn over= starter does not spin, or does spin but does not engage the flywheel, hence no rotation of the engine. Cranks, turns over, but won't start= Starter spins and engages, turning engine over but firing of cylinder does not support continued self sustained combustion sequence. Cranks, turns over, starts but won't run=Starting and ignition sequence complete, starts but will not support running at idle. Cranks, turns over, starts, runs but doesn't run at speed=Does what it is supposed to but suffers driveability problems, missing, poor acceleration, surges, etc. Just like the difference between soda and pop, some of this stuff is regional, but it is, never the less a source of confusion, especially when doing long distance virtual fault diagnosis. If folks can agree to these definitions or other suggestions than perhaps this could be a sticky, and or lead to a whole sticky regarding mechanical terms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nile Limbaugh Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 When I moved to Georgia from Illinois I had to readjust some of my English. In this part of the world, crank usually means start. "It won't crank" is the statement. "It won't start" is the meaning. Also, some folks use "tap" for "nut" and "towmotor" for "fork lift". Ya'll is plural, as is you'uns and kids are young'uns. I am now bi-lingual!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Didja carry the younguns to the park???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur1947 Posted October 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Thanks guys. Greg G. I took your advice on blowing air through the gas tank and that seemed to remedy my fuel problem. I adjusted the idle speed and know it starts up with ease. Earlier I was at my wits end and know I feel like celebrating. Once again thanks a bunch! Best. ARTHUR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Great!!!! Glad that worked out. You may have to do it a couple of times. Your comment about cleaning out the tank was key to the suggestion. there is always more sediment than comes out. I would put an in line filter some where along the way. I have 2, I removed a section of leaking gas line along the frame rail, and replaced it with flex line and took the opportunity to splice in a filter as well. I also have one between the pump and carbs, again on flexible line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur1947 Posted October 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 and put one on after cleaning the fuel pump. This is where I disconnected to blow out the line. Beats having to mess with the fuel fittings. Best. ARTHUR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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