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Purpose of 12v conversion?


epix1718

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When I purchased my car the 12 volt conversion was half fast started. There was a 12 volt generator on the car that did not work and there were still several 6 volt bulbs that had not yet been replaced with 12 volt equivlents. I elected to complete the conversion as it was less expensive to buy a rebuilt alternator than to rebuild the generator and find a working regulator. I bought the alternator for about twenty bucks and as it is a GM single wire with an internal regulator I no longer needed an external regulator. I drive my car on long road trips. Should I have an alternator failure while on the road I can find a replacement bolt on alternator at any auto parts house. Try that with a 6 or 12 volt generator. Also I use my GPS on road trips and it plugs into the cigar lighter. If I elect to someday install a radio in my car 12 volt radios are easier to come by than 6 volt radios. Another benefit of 12 volts is the aftermarket LED tail lights I have installed on my car. Click the link to see them work.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/Lights/?action=view&current=Mvc-005v.flv

Mvc-007f.jpg

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What exactly is the purpose to the 12v conversion besides using a modern battery and modern accessories such as radio/cd?

Outside of what Don mentioned, there is also A/C if you want to add that. But.......since most of us don't use our cars for anything more than a pleasure ride around town to the ice cream stand or burger joint or shows, I don't see any advantage to converting to 12 volt. My coupe is still 6 volt and it will start just as fast as Don's does, and I live in much colder weather than he does. So.........unless you want the modern goodies in the car, I don't see any advantage to the conversion.

If the generator or starter should go out, it's usually due to the brushes going bad. In that case you can buy new brushes almost anywhere. As for the regulator, solenoid, etc. Well..........you can usually pick those up pretty cheap at swap meets to keep on hand. I have a brand new NOS regulator still in the box I bought for $10 at a swap meet. I also have two new NOS solenoids in the box that I picked up from an old time service garage. Think I have about 4 or 5 sets of new points still in the box. And, all the extra light bulbs I need. Picked up whole boxes of those for about $7 a box at swap meets. So........parts aren't hard to come by.

Now should the starter or generator go out and need more than brushes, I can still buy a new 6 volt alternator. If I elect to simply have the old fixed, well I really don't have to rely on the car, so I can wait to get it back from a shop.

In the end, I don't see any advantages for myself, or disadvantages. It's just a matter of preference for some.

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You can have your generator converted from 6 to 12volt, thats what I'm doin. I agree that the gm alternator is good way to go but I want the look of the generator under the hood.

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In addition to the alternator being readily available it is also internally regulated which eliminates the firewall mounted mechanical voltage regulator. I converted my 36 Plymouth, and 52 Dodge 1 ton-coudn't find a 6 volt battery that lasted past the warranty period-both vehicles sit most of the time in the garage. Bulbs were getting to be a problem too. Mike

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I left my car as a 6V for a lot of years, even had a 6V alternator and 6V halogen headlights. But I gave in and switched to 12V after my third attempt to make the stock fuel gauge work failed. Since my fuel tank was in bad shape anyway, I installed a replacement tank with a modern 12V fuel level sender in it (along with the necessary gauge, obviously) and haven't had a problem with the gauge since.

Marty

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My opinion of the reason behind most twelve volt conversions is that the mechanic at the helm does not always have a good understanding of electricity. Six volt systems require a little more understanding of basic electricity and are a little more demanding of the technicians who do maintenance on them.

Six volt cables MUST be at least twice as thick as twelve volt cables. Don't go to a parts counter and ask for a battery cable, because you will invariably be handed a twelve volt cable about the diameter of a lead pencil. A good six volt cable should be thicker than your index finger, and will look to the novice mechanic more like a heater hose than a cable. This larger diameter size cable is necessary because six volt systems have only half the electrical pressure as do twelve volt systems. Since this is ture, it follows that six volt systems will flow twice the amperage - or current flow - as the twelve volt system, hence the need for larger cables.

Wire gauge is just like shot gun gauge - the lower the number, the larger the size. Ten gauge wire is pretty thick, almost like a thin lead pencil. Zero gauge wire is like your pinkie. Two ought wire is even thicker. Four ought cable is nearly as thick as your thumb. I made my battery cables from four-ought welding cable purchased at a Tractor Supply store, and bought my cable ends from NAPA. I then soldered these ends onto the heavy cables using my bench vise and a butane torch with solder. The engine cranks just like it should, even on cold days. I'm happy, and the cables will last forever.

Having said all this, there is one logical reason why you may wish to consider the switch to twelve volts, other than those already mentioned in this thread. If you have a six volt generator armature or field coil failure, or even a voltage regulator failure, you are looking at an expensive repair. The cheapest voltage regulator I can find costs a minimum of $50, and an armature for a generator can cost more than $100. New rebuilt alternators are usually less than $40, and they include a new regulaor. Hence, it may be cheaper to fix a twelve volt charging system than a six volt, depending on the nature of the problem. Some parts are just very expensive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know when switching to negative ground you need to switch the wires on the ammeter to work. What all wires do you have to switch over??? I just bought a 12V coil and i plan on getting an alternator soon. But wiring my headlights to the switch and they stay on with the fuse out do I need to switch the wires on the headlight switch also? and the Coil? Just wondering what all wires i have to switch to make sure the 12v negative ground works properly. Thanks ahead of time!

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  • 3 weeks later...

All six volt wiring will work just fine wth 12-volt current, since only half the amperage will be flowing in the wires. Having said this, the CONDITION of your old wiring IS important - meaning mostly the condition of the origihal cloth-covered wiring on sixty-plus year old vehicles. If it's safe for 6 volts, it'll be happy with 12 volts, too. Actually, the wiree size will be twice as heavy as needed, when you switch to 12 volts.

The only components that will need replacement will be the electric wiper and heater motors and of course, all the light bulbs. Most fuel gauge circutis work fine with 12 volts. If it doesn't, just install an in-line resistor. You will also need a ballast resister in line between your ignition switch and the ignition coil. Get that done, and "Bob's Your Uncle!":)

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All six volt wiring will work just fine wth 12-volt current, since only half the amperage will be flowing in the wires. Having said this, the CONDITION of your old wiring IS important - meaning mostly the condition of the origihal cloth-covered wiring on sixty-plus year old vehicles. If it's safe for 6 volts, it'll be happy with 12 volts, too. Actually, the wiree size will be twice as heavy as needed, when you switch to 12 volts.

The only components that will need replacement will be the electric wiper and heater motors and of course, all the light bulbs. Most fuel gauge circutis work fine with 12 volts. If it doesn't, just install an in-line resistor. You will also need a ballast resister in line between your ignition switch and the ignition coil. Get that done, and "Bob's Your Uncle!":)

pretty much what dave said, except you don't necessarily have to replace your wiper or heater motors. just as with the fuel sender, a resistor can be inserted on the power feed to those devices to reduce the voltage from 12 to 6. i did that with a solid-state type unit (well, two, one for each) from Classic Parts of America in KC. [accessory voltage reducer #24-996] for $12.95 apiece. cheaper than buying new heater/wiper motors.

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