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Brake bleeding


bob westphal

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After reading through Jeff P.'s Brake problem, I noticed that there are at least some people out there that don't know about the easiest brake bleeding method. This method doesn't require any special tool or expansive gadgets. I learned this from a real old time fellow mechanic so long ago I can't remeber who or when.

All that is needed is a clear piece of surgical type tubing about 2' long and a bottle/can with a base that won't tip over easily. The process is done with only one person, is fool proof and works every time. Simply connect one end of the tubing to the brake bleeder nipple and place the other end in the bottle with brake fluid at a level high enough to have the tubing end submerged in the fluid. Fill the M/C and cap it. Crack the bleeder and pump the pedal untill no bubbles are seen in the clear tubing. Close the bleeder and go to the next wheel, after refilling the M/C, until all wheels show no signs of air in the tubing. Presto! You have just bled your brakes all by yourself. Because both ends of the tubing are sealed from the atmosphere no air can re-enter the system when the pedal is released.

I haven't had anyone help me bleed any brakes for years except when the bleeder has no nipple.

Bob

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Don, I can see by your array of tools that you got "hammered" before doing the brakes. Good man.

I use the same bleeding technique, works great. The only way you might have a problem is if you open the bleeder screw too much so it's loose in the threads, allowing air to suck back in around the threads when you release the pedal. Two other things, push the pedal down slowly and release it slowly, and there's no need to push it to the floor.

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I have been pressure bleeding mine. I found that the plug in the back of the master cylinder had the same diameter and thread as the reservoir cap. I installed a new master cylinder and still have the old one. So I used the old outlet plug and block one outlet with a fine thread bolt and use a piece of brake line tubing with fitting connected to a one gallon garden sprayer with three quarts of brake fluid in it pressured to about fifteen psi. I remove all four wheels and tires for my convenience before bleeding. Just go from brake to brake opening the bleeder valve and watch the clear tube you connected to the valve until all of the bubbles disappear.

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I also use the bottle method, however I always make sure I shut off the bleed nipple on the slow down stroke of the brake pedal...this requires a second person but ensures no back leak of air via the tread. The other trick I have is to try and buy brake fluid in different colour to what is in the car. You can then tell when the fresh fluid has reached the wheel.

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