Headliner install

[gnordlie]

I just finished tearing out the old headliner in my 48 coupe. I removed a bunch of nasty looking insulation above the rods and I'm wondering what is a good replacement product. I assume this is up there for sound deadening. For what it's worth, I got the headliner from E-Z Boy in a light gray and got side panel material to match. Came within a week! Got 160.00 in headliner,58.00 in windlace, and 88.00 in side panel material. All matching light gray. If the headliner fits like they claim this will be a nice replacement.

[1940plymouth]

I went the cheap way and used carpet underlayment, it has worked well to this point, which is about five years. I don't imagine it was the correct way to do it, but sure was alot cheaper. I got my headliner from Pro-Antique Auto Parts, installed it last week, very pleased

Speedway Motors advertises "Dynamat" , but my thoughts are that it is expensive

[woodie49]

I don't know about the sound deadening material, but would love to here about your experience replacing the headliner - how difficult it is, are special tools or parts required, etc.

Good luck.

[Norm's Coupe]

This is what I used under my headliner. Glued it to the roof with #77 3M Aerosol Adhesive available in any office supply store. I only needed one roll of the insulation for my coupe. Really made things quiet in the car. Bought it through JC Whitney.

[1940plymouth]

I don't know if I can explain the proceedure well enough, but here goes.........

My car is a '40 Plymouth Business Coupe, I started by hanging the headliner by the bows, starting in the rear working towards the windshield. Once that was done, then I centered the material so that there was the same amount on each side of the car. Once that was done, my son was in the trunk to pull the material tight and we then cut a X shaped cut above the rear window at the interior light, then attached the interior light to hold the material tight, once that was done, we attached the rear window garnish moulding, again while my son is in the trunk holding the material tight. Once that was done we used hog rings to hold the material tight along the rear of the shelf. We then installed the rear side window garnish mouldings, from there we went to the windshield garnish moulding and installed that..

Using a plastic putty knife, we did the driver's side above the door, gently pushing the material between the windlace and serrated metal pieces that are above the door, that proceedure was repeated on the passenger side, then we cut the material out of the rear window and side windows, using single bladed razor blades. Aterwards we again used the plastic putty knife to push the threads under the garnish mouldings

We didn't use any moist spray or a hair dryer, but the wrincles aren't too bad and in the past week a good share of them have gone away.

Hope this helps, not professional by any means, but I am very pleased with the out come.

By the way, there was three of us that installed the headliner

['37 P4 Touring]

You can get headliner foam and all sorts of supplies at www.wsusol.com

I bought their 1/4" grey for 6.99/yard, new tack strip, glue.

I used Dynamat Extreme sound deadener for the ceiling but went to a less expensive type to do the rear side areas. It will take the 36 sq.ft. kit for 210.00. Don't get it from Dynamat directly as they charge an extra 100.00 for some reason. Go to www.summitracing.com

Summit is great to deal with and they have Dynamat. For my second 36 sq.ft. kit I ordered Summits cheaper, 160.00 kit. Either type is foil backed and self adhesive. I am putting the headliner foam over the Dynamat.

[Frank Elder]

The bows are numbered from front to back, correct order is crucial, happy installation.

No# stamped on each bow

[Norm's Coupe]

I don't know about the sound deadening material, but would love to here about your experience replacing the headliner - how difficult it is, are special tools or parts required, etc.

Good luck.

All you need is a pair of scissors, good sharp hobby knife and a putty knife. Also a tack hammer if you use tacks in the tack strip. However, I used a staple gun and stapled that part. Was faster and easier than using the carpet tacks. I installed mine by myself, so one person can do the job. Just takes a little longer.

[50 Deluxe]

I used "Reflectix" from builders supply at Lowe's. It has 2 layers of aluminum foil and a couple layers of bubble back ( the popit stuff), it also worked great on the floor.

My daughter and I put the headliner and windlace on my 50 special deluxe. I said I would never try that again, until I saw a video that used only GLUE to hold the edge of the liner to the body. Our probem was we tried tacks, nails and staples to hold the liner to the frame with little success.

[Norm's Coupe]

I used "Reflectix" from builders supply at Lowe's. It has 2 layers of aluminum foil and a couple layers of bubble back ( the popit stuff), it also worked great on the floor.

My daughter and I put the headliner and windlace on my 50 special deluxe. I said I would never try that again, until I saw a video that used only GLUE to hold the edge of the liner to the body. Our probem was we tried tacks, nails and staples to hold the liner to the frame with little success.

Ahh yes, the glue. Got my headliner from JC Whitney and the tacks and glue were included. Still have the glue and tacks. Never opened the can because I figured if I had to move the headliner during the install it would be too messy. So, I used double sided carpet tape to hold everything until I got it stapled. Works great. Just have to cut it down to size a little, and it doesn't hurt to stay there afterward.

[1940plymouth]

I forgot to mention that we used double back carpet tape on the rear of the shelf once we had the material drawn tight, then we used the hog rings