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Found 3 results

  1. Bob Riding

    Woodie show and no tow!

    My wife and I just returned from the 10th Annual Woodies in the Valley show in Visalia CA yesterday but weren't sure we were going to make it home without a tow truck I've been driving the '40 Plymouth now for a couple of years and I've never had an overheating problem, including driving around in the summer at temperatures over 100°. I got the motor from an old Mopar racer who had rebuilt it, new distribution tube, etc. and it always ran like a top. It had 160° thermostat, which after reading various posts here, seemed like I was asking for sludge trouble in the future (apparently the engine doesn't get hot enough to burn off the moisture which creates problems), so I did what you're not supposed to do right before a trip and changed the thermostat to a 180° unit from Napa. Immediately the gauge registered 20° hotter which made sense. We left Saturday morning, outside temperature in the 50s, and drove 60 miles on the freeway with no issues. We had a lot of fun at the show, caught up with old friends, tc., and then caravanned through the countryside, which included driving through some small local downtown areas very slowly. Outside temps were in the low 70s. Immediately it pegged the temperature gage – I couldn't even see the needle it was so far off the scale. We pulled over and clouds of steam were coming out of the bottom area of the radiator. After cooling down we added water only, and filled it to overflowing. As I was looking among the group for some anti-freeze, a couple of the old-timers told me that unpressurized flatheads do better in hot weather with pure water rather than an anti-freeze mix. Now with more water than coolant,in the stock, honeycomb radiator, the gauge went back down to about 170° and stayed there the whole rest of the trip. I had never heard this before- I would think that adding anything to water would change its boiling point and be better. Thoughts?
  2. Anyone have any recommendations for the best type of sealer to use (or avoid) or other must-do items to fix leaky gutters? I recently discovered that water was coming into the interior up around the gutters, and while I initially thought it might be just a few rust pinholes, it didn't take more than a few seconds up on the ladder to see what the problem was. Of course, on a less-tall vehicle, I might have spotted it sooner. Several of the spot welds appear to have rusted through and/or separated. Water is coming in through the gap between the two layers of sheet metal. Plenty of dirt and even a little bit of moss. See photo... It's depressing. Of course, the right thing to do is to strip it down to bare metal and weld it, but that is not in the cards. You'd have to remove the entire roof to get the rust out in between. My tentative plan is to clean out the gutters as best I can (water, toothbrush, air gun, wire brush, maybe even a pressure washer) and then apply a seam sealer. I'm leaning towards "Dynatron 550" but open to suggestion of other products, prep/application tips, etc. Ideally I'd like something that I can really force into the gap, similar in thickness to Bondo or household painter's caulk (though I understand I can't use house caulk). Self-leveling would presumably run to the end of the gutters and out, so that's no good. The sealer needs to stick to paint and to bare metal and hopefully to dirty/rusty metal too. Needs to be paintable and sun-stable. Doesn't have to look great because you'd have to be 9 feet tall to see it.
  3. Working on my 218, noticed that there is no water distribution tube in the block. It is a .060" over motor so it has been molested. Other than the obvious (the name) does anyone know the specific reason for the water distribution tube? Seems like if the radiator (hence the engine) was kept totally full with no air you wouldn't need the tube??? Sorry for the newbie (probably stupid) questions...
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