Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'vacuum'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Articles
    • Forum Integration
    • Frontpage
  • Pages
  • Miscellaneous
    • Databases
    • Templates
    • Media

Forums

  • The forums of P15-D24.Com, Mopar cars and trucks from mid 1930s to late 1950s
    • P15-D24 Forum
    • Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
    • Technical Archives
    • Forum Announcements And Feedback
    • Off Topic (OT)
    • Ebay, Craigslist and External Site Referrals
    • DPETCA - Dodge Pilothouse Era Truck Club of America
    • Recognitions and Remembrances
  • Classified Ads
    • For Sale
    • Wanted
  • Minnesota MoPaR Club's Minnesota MoPaR Club News
  • Dodge Truck Purists's Dodge Truck Purists Forum
  • Pacific NW MoPAR's Forum For The Pacific NW MoPAR

Categories

  • Reference Information
  • Instructions, Manuals & Templates
  • Tools
  • Marketing Brochures
  • Dodge Truck Purists's Dodge Truck Purists Files For Download

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Minnesota MoPaR Club's Minnesota MoPaR Club Events
  • Dodge Truck Purists's Events for Dodge Truck Purists
  • Pacific NW MoPAR's Schedule Your Events For The Pacific NW MoPAR Club

Found 4 results

  1. My windshield wipers haven't worked since we bought our restored 1950 P20 Plymouth Special DeLuxe Club Coupe earlier this year. I serviced the vacuum wiper motor, but the best it would do is an occasional swipe if you helped it. Vacuum test only indicated about 12 inches. About 6 weeks ago a saw a NOS rebuild kit for the accessory vacuum pump. Today I followed my factory service manual for testing it: disconnect both vacuum lines and test with vacuum gauge. My reading: 0 (zero). Sigh. Clampped off the fuel hose and disconnected both fuel lines on the pump, but not in that order. Sigh. Wedged my socket in to remove the two bolts holding the pump. If you do this job, I suggest you take off the higher front bolt first. I, however didn't. And the when taking it out, my socket wrench kept switching directions on my and the durn bolt would tighten right up. Sigh. Cleaned yo the pump in my parts washer -- I do like that thing, then took the pump in the house to open up the vacuum end. The factory manual has some great directions on doing that so the spring doesn't go flying. Found the vacuum diaphragm looking like this... Well I had a replacement in my rebuilt kit. Only problem is the arm for the oil seal was different, so I had to get creative with a drill and my dremmel tool. Thus far no replacement part for this car has been perfect. Sigh. Returned the pump to the car, connected the fuel lines, and released the vice grip clamp on the fuel hose. Started the car, checked the vacuum and was getting about 7.5 inches. Manual says if I don't have 8 inches that my pump needs servicing. Sigh. Turned off the car, and held the manifold vacuum line to tester. I had my 15 year-old son start the car. It was pulling a steady 16+ inches with me holding the lines together. But it was running much smoother than it normally does. This vehicle has always run rough and I'm not knowledgeable enough to know why. But this is sounding better. I let go of the vacuum line to tell my son to turn off the car and immediately it went back to its rough running. Hmm I connected the manifold line to the vacuum pump again and had the vacuum gauge on the other side. Started the car. Now it is pulling a steady 18". I rev the engine and as it slowed down the vacuum shot up past 20 and then slowly settled on 18 again. But it is running smoothly. Final test, hook up the wipers instead of the vacuum gauge. They work. They work! Now we don't have to leave the Plymouth at home when it is threatening rain. Success. But I really wanted to test out the engine. So I had my son move the parking break cable to the correct side of the clamp (that story to come later) and we took it for a 5 mile drive - up hill. It still doesn't have the power to make it up that really steep hill at 55 mph, but it did it at 52 instead of the 48 mph in the past. And idling on the way downhill, none of the rough running. Success On the way back, we pulled into a parking lot and I let my son drive. Never got past 2nd gear but this parking lot is NOT flat so it is a good proving grounds for teaching the kids to drive a manual transmission. My son doesn't get his learners permit for another 5 months, so he can't drive it on the roads yet. This was only the 2nd time I've let him drive it and he did pretty good. Lots of sighing, but 3 positives 1 wipers work 2 engine runs better 3 my son is learning to drive the car we bought for him
  2. P15 / P14 Folding Top Operation

    I was forwarded a question regarding a 1942 Plymouth convertible folding top operation. Apparently this gentleman has a 1942 Plymouth Convertible where the top is not hooked up. I'm assuming that means it does not work. He first wanted to verify that it was a vacuum system which I was able to confirm from my 42 Plymouth parts manual. Next he was looking for a diagram that might show the vacuum lines and how they are run.. My 42 Plymouth parts manual does not have any diagrams of that. I found a weak diagram in the plymouth service manual but it really did not show the vacuum lines. I'm guessing the same vacuum system was used on the P15 46-48 convertibles but I don't know that for a fact. Does anyone know? My 46-48 Dodge Parts manual has a wonderful schematic showing the convertible top mechanism and wiring but that is electric. I was wondering if the P15 Parts manual had an equally nice schematic of the Plymouth folding top and all the vacuum lines?
  3. Vacuum Advance

    Hey Guys, I have been having an issue with my '52 B3C lately where the motor won't rev up. I rebuilt the carburetor and it is working fine. So I moved onto the distributor. The points were dirty and there was a couple original wires inside that the insulation had degraded off of. So those will be replaced. I also found that the vacuum advance diaphragm is leaking air. So I'm thinking that is the major issue here. I see NOS vacuum advance modules on Ebay but I'm wondering whether or not that's a good route to go. Do you think the diaphragm is any better in those after sitting all these years? Is there a better way to go? Here's the one I'm looking at on Ebay
  4. I got a 48 Plymouth with a 218. Last night I wanted to check the timing because I kept thinking maybe there was something wrong, running like it was very retarded (no pun intended ) I loosened the distributor and removed the vacuum line from the carb. I plugged the hole in the carb to delete the vacuum leak. Started the motor (RPM around 450-500) and checked to see what was going on at the crank pulley. I couldn't see much so I shut her down and cleaned the the pulley to get a good visual of the timing marks. I started up the car again and got to work. I could see where it was set so I started to make some adjustments. After turning it CW and CCW a few times, I noticed there wasnt much or any difference in the sound of the engine. So I drastically turned the distributor CCW and CW with no audible or RPM changes...very wierd. I shut the car down and checked the vacuum advance unit. I sucked on the vacuum line and it appeared and felt like to be working good. I know its not working while timing, but sometimes you think of the darndest things. With that good I fired the motor again and messed with the distributor again with no changes. Very wierd...no sputtering or speed up of the engine rpm.... NOTHING! Any Suggestion to the issue im having? Is this normal? Im thinking I have a 'bad' distributor....weak springs maybe...I dont know...im "spitballing" at this point. Thanks for any help!
×