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My Project Cars



Found 34 results

  1. Hi all, I'm new here and will get some pics of my new project up soon, as well as some progress reports. Currently, though, I'm in search of a gasket set and seal for the 3 speed manual, standard duty, transmission for my pickup. Google hasn't provided any results, except for a similar products, but not the ones I need. Anyone know of a source or recommend how I can move forward? Any help is appreciated, first project vehicle here. Done a handful of motorcycles in the past.
  2. I disassembled a 1950 4-speed trans just for kicks and to clean it up and check it for wear and possible bad bearings. I'm putting it back together now and I noticed that the reverse gear fork rail has one end made of brass. I'm just wondering why that might be and whether it makes a difference in which way it should be re-installed - brass or steel end first. I didn't pay enough attention during reassembly, but I think the steel end gets inserted first which puts the brass end at the rear of the trans. The shop manual doesn't say except it does say that the rail should be installed from the rear.
  3. The transmission cover plate was missing when I bought my B3B, but I found one in very good shape on eBay. Only problem is that the plate came from a '48, '49, or '50 and has the oblong hole in it for a floor mounted emergency brake handle. My '51's e-brake handle is under the dash. Does anyone have a photo of a transmission cover plate without that hole. Did Dodge put a plug into the hole for the last three years or simply stamp plates without the hole. I want to know how it should look if I decide to weld it up.
  4. hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic)
  5. hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic)
  6. Hemibear426

    Transmission Identification

    I have a 34 Plymouth that has a 1940 Dodge (D-14) engine in it. The transmission cross member has been hacked up and a welded to the frame cross member (maybe from the 40 Dodge) installed. Is there a way to identify which transmission I have and which bell housing I have? Bell housing is Cast Number 692605-5 (34, 40?). Transmission is now out of car.
  7. MIHooper

    Gyromatic to BW T-85 3 speed

    Picked up a really nice 51 Coronet Gyromatic w/ 230 Flathead. I’m 3rd owner, 10K original miles. Looking to put in a Gen 1 hemi and a vintage BW T-85 3 speed column shift.... more or less trying to make it a 50s correct Hot Rod. (Yes... doing up the Flathead is still in consideration ). Question is, will I have to replace the whole column or will the column for the Gyromatic be able to link right up? I’m thinking no as the column for the Gyromatic has R, 1(H&L) & 2(H&L)... and nothing for a 3rd gear. Yup... I’m THAT guy... so my apologies if someone has to explain or revisit AGAIN. Thanks for any help!!! Tips on 50s correctness are welcomed too! Again, thanks & happy upcoming New Year! hoop
  8. fhubler

    1-2 Shift Clunk

    Quick transmission question on a '48 D24 with fluid drive (stock). Everything works great, 1- R shift is smooth & quiet as is the 2-3 shift. When I come out of 1st gear on the way to 2nd I get a noise, sort of like a clunk, at varying degrees of intensity. I just changed what I am pretty sure must have been the original gear oil in the transmission & rear. It seems to have helped & I continue to shift through the gears in an effort to work the new gear oil into everything. I still have to clean & lubricate the shift linkage. Anything else I should consider? Could this be a shift linkage wear or adjustment issue?
  9. From the album: Stx123

    Having a problem putting shifter rods back together correctly. Right now I have no reverse. If anyone has a pic, or knows the correct way, that info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  10. On a B4B, how does one tell if it equipped fluid drive? Thanks!
  11. I'm trying to stay with all original engine colors so I'm wondering about the various engine and transmission parts colors. Here's what I think the colors should be... (but some are pure guesses on my part)... Black: 1. Oil Filter Canister / 2. Crankcase Ventilation Tube / 3. Distributor / 4. Front Motor Support Bracket / 5. Fan / 6. Oil Pan / 7. Emergency Brake Drum Argent (Silver): 1. Block / 2. Head / 3. Oil Pump / 4. Water Pump / 5. Bell Housing / 6. Transmission / 7. Dip Stick Tube Did I miss anything?
  12. DLK

    tranny rebuilder

    The clutch throwout bearing went on my Wayfarer. I need to have the transmission pulled to fix that obviously. Here's my question. The synchronizer gear is worn so I can't shift from 2nd the 3rd without the gears grinding unless I shift as a snails pace. I am wondering if someone can recommend a shop or person that rebuilds these 3 speeds as long as I am pulling it? I thought I read something on here a couple years back but my search did not bring it up. Minnesota would be nice but I guess I could ship it if I have to.
  13. New to this stuff: I just got a 56 Truck and I want replace the stock 3 speed flathead 6 with a 360 Mopar and overdrive. Will I have to change the differential? What else will I have to change? I am trying to estimate the total cost to do this. thank you for your help
  14. autoexpressionist.com

    ###Trans and pressure plate help needed

    First off, forgive me that I'm new to all this. I'm learning as I go. Had a bad clutch chatter in my '47 Plymouth and am replacing the rear main seals and clutch. I ordered a new clutch disc from Bernbaum but the new one has a deeper offset than my original and doesn't seat properly in the pressure plate. I looked on the forums and for other online images and haven't found another that looks similiar to the one that I have. I am wondering if I just need to order another pressure plate or find a different clutch. The clutch that came out is a 9 1/4. Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is any sort of plug or cap that is supposed to go on the transmission where it bolts up. I got a new seal and it has a hole around the opening and it seems to me like there should be, but again, I have zero experience and the manual doesn't show anything. Thanks! Dan
  15. I am a novice trying to reinstall the 4 speed transmission in my 1952 B-C-3. I followed the directions in the manual when removing the transmission and slid it out on guide pins placed in the upper bolt holes. Now when I try and slide it back in it is getting hung up. It appears to me that the throw out bearing is the issue. I can't seem to get it lined up up correctly. I tried putting the bearing directly on the transmission shaft but then I can't get it past the clutch fork. I then tried to remove the clutch fork but can't seem to get it out of the housing with the clutch installed. Can someone please advise what the correct procedure for installing the transmission? The book just says "reverse removal procedure". Thank you!!!
  16. I know this topic is discussed frequently, but I really don't seem to be finding the information I am looking for. I am wondering what "simple" options there are for transmission swaps for my 50 Dodge Coronet 230 flat head. I know there is the S-10 T5 option, and so far I am leaning in that direction. What I would like to find out is if there are other transmissions that will work as as an easy swap. I'm not too concerned about power loss if there is a viable automatic that is essentially bolt in- Cant be worse the the gyro-matic! I am keeping the internal motor stock, but thinking about a dual carb and split exhaust. I want to leave it 6volt as well. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  17. Hi Folks, As I stated in my introduction, I’m in the planning stages of a ‘40s-style hop up based on a Dodge Brothers roadster and using 90%+ period MoPar content. After missing out on a complete engine / trans setup from a ‘38 Dodge passenger car, I’ve started thinking about other sources for a floor-shift 3-speed for this project. 1938 Dodge engine and trans I was already planning to use the steering box, column, and wheel from a Job Rated truck, and it occurred to me that these vehicles used floor-shift boxes as well. 1942 Dodge truck floor shifter Were the ‘39-‘47 truck three-speeds related to the ‘37-‘38 passenger-car boxes? How do the ratios compare? Can you swap parts around? Any help is appreciated! Regards, Dave
  18. hey anyone have a piece of advice as to where to start? Ive got a 52 cranbrook 3 speed column shift... I can start in neutral or in any gear with clutch down, shift through gears fine but as soon as I let off clutch it makes a grinding clanking sound... not the same sound as if I was grinding gears, I can feel it and it feels like its right at center underfront seat...Ive never really dealt with tranny issues so im not sure if theres anywhere i should start... the linkage all looks ok and the car was fine until this happened other day... was driven three or four days a week ... any help would be appreciated
  19. Just had the 3 speed trans opened up at my transmission shop. Among other things they found the reverse idler gear had several broken teeth. So I looked up this part in my parts book and it is described as having 15 teeth. The broken one in mine has 16 teeth! So do I have a Dodge Transmission? Did these 3 speeds differ from D,S,C,P ? I'll need to know in so I can search for the correct parts. Thoughts? Thanks In Advance Clay
  20. tshancock

    Clutch assembly 49 Dodge

    Hey follow members, I have a delima. I replaced the entire clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing on my fluid drive 1949 Wayfarer business mans coupe. Now I have a vibration. I read in the book that upon removing the assembly to mark it with the bell housing. If you replace it all how would you know how to bolt it up sense the parts are all new? I know the motor is internally balanced so it can't be that. The old parts are gone unfortunetly. Please help if any one has any ideas. Thanks Terry Hancock
  21. Hello, I have a 52 Pilothouse that I want to put a 318 or 360 with an auto trans in it. Could you please help me get this started? What are the best known ways in which to accomplish this? So far I have only found bits and pieces of intel on this. Are there particular engine years more accommodating than others? What mods will need to be done to fit a 727 trans in? are there particular rear ends that work better than others to handle the V8? I want to keep it all Mopar, no cross corp if possible. Your help is greatly appreciated, I just want to get this started. Thank you
  22. Well, after a long hiatus, both from the forum and the '47 Plymouth, we are getting things going again. We 'blew up' a clutch a while back and experienced a some problems trying to replace it. Not sure if I brought the first set of problems on to myself . . . In looking at the flywheel, there are two sets of bolt holes: the 'inner' set matches up to my original Borg & Beck 9-1/8" Clutch and Pressure Plate, rebuilt by TN Clutch in 2005. The 'outer' set of holes match up to the 10" 6-Spring Borg & Beck Clutch I had on my shelf. (Clutch Pat. No. 2.277.555-2.448.079; 9-Spring Pressure Plate Pat. No. 1889939-1880590-2104982). I believe these came out of an early 50's auto. With a son in 3-On-The-Tree learning mode, I thought the 10" would be a good drop in. My Clutch alignment tool fit fine, the clutch splines matched up with the trani shaft splines, but was a bit of a tight fit. We tried multiple times to mount the clutch, pressure plate and trani and things sort of hung there. Last week we pulled the 10" clutch/pressure plate out and installed a spare 9-1/8" Borg & Beck that appeared to have some life left in it. Doing some reading, I realized that there was a gasket missing between the bell housing and trani - never had one there that I'm aware of. We made a gasket for that interface , got everything lined up with a little difficulty and installed. Possible problem - with parts lying on the garage floor for over a year, there was a possibility of the propeller shaft getting flipped end for end . . . any problem there? We've pulled it back out and reversed it without any change. Oh, that brings me to the problem I'm having, starting out in 1st or reverse or downshifting 3rd into 2nd, there is a horrible shuddering and clanging; actually shakes the front end. It is almost impossible to get a smooth start. Pulling the floor and watching while moving the car, you can feel the shuddering, but the bouncing of the engine on the mounts I expected was not there. Engine mounts are probably original. Looking at the propeller shaft during movement I can see it 'bouncing' back and forth as it turns. I have a video I'll post shortly that will demonstrate that better than my writing. Maybe this movement is normal, as I've never looked at the propeller shaft during start up . . . Any suggestions on locating the source of the vibration? I know this is hard when you can't put hands, eyes and ears on the car! John
  23. When I took delivery of my truck 8 months ago, we were horrified about the frame. The frame was so bad that when we saw the e-brake in several places (some in a box, some dangling from the transmission) any thoughts of fixing it immediately went on a nice-to-must-have list. Now that it's time to pay the piper, I'm finding I don't actually have all the pieces. At least I don't think I do. Granted, I did find some springs in the glove box (go figure) that look like they would play a part, but not all the pins and brackets are there. So I've been snooping around for some place to get these other pieces. We did find a (free-ish) donor (on the right). It looks to be earlier and we believe it to be late 40's. It is a top mount, and I have a three-in-the-tree so we thought we should just swap the e-brake parts. The lever mechanism's fulcrum attaches at the bottom on the donor, whereas mine does so from the top. But the parts that attach to that look similar to the book for my 53. And I do have the band that is supposed to fit on mine. Just not all the mounting hardware. I am debating pulling the transmission off my working truck so we can sway parts over on the bench. Just too hard to really know if it would work by eyeball. Do any of you fine gentlemen have an experience in this area? I'd rather find out now it is a foolish errand than when both are apart on the workbench. Thanks Mike
  24. From the album: Sundry items

    Comparing my 53 to a possible donor (48?) to fix the eBrake.

    © MPrutz 2014

  25. desoto 5053



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