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Found 3 results

  1. Ok, so I'm having an interesting debate with my friend and mentor, an older gentleman who for the last 40 years has made his living restoring and maintaining vintage cars. When I repaired my water pump recently, he suggested I leave out the thermostat entirely when re-installing the upper radiator hose. I questioned that...because I figure the original engineers put it there for a variety of reasons besides just letting the car warm up properly on cold mornings...but I went ahead and tried it. I refilled the radiator with my usual summer mixture of 1 gallon anti freeze, 1 pint of redline water wetter and topped off by 2 gallons or so of distilled water. I've driven it on the local highways on some pretty hot days, and so far I haven't noticed any major differences in temperature. I hear from some folks who advocate running without a thermostat, claiming the faster water flow will cool better.....others say that flow needs to be restricted somewhat(by the thermostat) to allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool properly before re-entering the water jackets. I tend to side with the latter, but I'm no engineer, so I'm curious to know what others think about this..... By the way, I'm running the stock 201 flat head 6 with stock water pump and radiator.
  2. I thought I'd write up how I rebuild the temp gauges for our MoPars. Start by carefully cutting the outside protective wrap at about 40 inches from the bulb. Then coil the tube around your hand (starting at the bulb) and put it in an ice bath.
  3. My temp gauge always reads hot but my infrared temperature gun gives healthy temperatures at the radiator, hoses, and head. I was at a show recently and talked to another flathead owner who said he resolved the same issue by putting a 1/4 ohm resister in between the sensor and the gauge. Anyone done this or have thoughts about it. I'm running a 218 block with 12v and original 12v gauges in my '57 d100. -steve
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