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My Project Cars



Found 87 results

  1. My freeze plug inside my bellhousing went today. Does anyone know if this can be accessed without pulling the motor? Can I drop the trans and bell housing instead and replace it from there? What does that process look like? Where/how do I find freeze plugs that will fit?
  2. I've been perusing around the forum for a couple of weeks while doing research on the 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe before I purchased it. My wants was a running and driving classic car that I could take to car shows, and I didn't want to spend a fortune on the purchase price. I ran across the Plymouth on Craigslist, went for a test drive and fell in love. Overall the car is in pretty good shape. The paint job and interior refresh is probably 10-15 years old, so there's some scratches and things in the paint and the interior has some places where the seams are coming apart. I'm currently going through and greasing things that need to be greased, added a little brake fluid, replaced the generator wires because the insulation was gone. There's some rust on the drivers side rocker panel underneath. Someone previously fixed some of the floor pans, but did a shotty job, so will look at that in a few years. The engine looks mostly original. It's still running oil bath air cleaner and 6 volt system with the generator. The engine belt has a slight tear, so I bought a replacement. The replacement looks to not be quite as wide, so I'll have to figure that one out. I bought the service manual off of Rock Auto, which helps tremendously. I want to keep the car mostly original. I love to tinker with things, so this should be fun. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions. Updates: 4-12-19 -new spark plugs -Replaced generator wires 8-26-19 -6 new wheel cylinders -all new brake shoes -New rubber brake lines -2 new steel brake lines off the master cylinder -new master cylinder -replaced windshield wipers -replaced belt (had a tractor belt on the car) -fixed driver door lock (just took apart and put back together and it worked) -changed all fluids (seems to be self leveling with the leaks, lol) -added oil filter (was empty) -replaced rubber fuel line (started leaking in the garage) -added third brake light (6 volt led) -added rear turn signals -new battery (old one wasn't holding a charge) -cleaned up the trunk -added USB mobile phone charger (yes, it worked on 6 volts) Still needed: -new tires (going to stay with the 215/75R15), would love to go full white-wall if the prices weren't so high. I have found some that have a little larger white-wall. -add turn signal lamp and socket to factory location -drivers door stop (found in the door, need to make a new one) -new stop light lenses (seems to be hard to find) -new trunk lock (another hard to find, the ones I do find are so expensive) -wiring (may work on this this winter) -seat belts
  3. Hey y’all, new here. I just recently recovered a 1947 Plymouth business coupe that was stolen from me in 1999. I found it on Craigslist listed for sale without a title, most amazingly, I still had the damned title. I contacted the seller & set up an appointment to see it, after confirming that it was the same car, I informed the seller that I had the title to it & upon seeing that the VIN# matched, he let me have it back (with an agreed $200 for his towing expenditures.).
  4. 1948 Plymouth P15 Special Deluxe Sedan On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-Plymouth-P15-Special-Deluxe-Sedan/383097755580?
  5. 1942 Plymouth Special Deluxe On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1942-Plymouth-Special-Deluxe/183908136288?
  6. Hello All, first time poster, first time builder, looking for some help on a new '51 Suburban project. My grandfather and I are working on this one together; he's lending me his expertise and shop space and I'm giving him a chance to spend some more time in the garage, "grandma-approved". He's been hot rodding Chevys and Fords since he was 14, but when looking for a project to take on we fell in love with this era of Suburbans and it's the first MOPAR he's worked on. We're sticking pretty traditional with our plans for modifications, including a Mustang II style IFS kit. I've seen a lot of debate regarding Fatman products on here, and that was the original direction we were leaning towards as he has two completed projects with their Stage II kit (50 and 31 Chevy pickups). However, the cost of their frame stub has us a bit wary, as it would nearly double the overall price of the kit. My grandpa thinks we can do the measurements and fab work for the stub ourselves, then use a universal kit from Heidts, Fatman or similar and save about $2k. Has anyone gone this route? Any advice would be appreciated.
  7. I have a 48 Plymouth special deluxe and havent been able to get this motor to start. It cranks and I put gas in the carb trying to get it to start. Though when I was working on it my stud that the positive cable bolts to got really hot. Wire isnt hot but just the bolt. I get the motor to crank and sounds like it wants to start because it does pop but cant get it to run.
  8. I bought this 51 plymouth club coupe recently no motor not trans been fully converted to 12volt for 350 dollars with a title and I'm having a little trouble identifying what it actually is any help is appreciated
  9. First time posting. My new toy is an Australian built 1956 Plymouth Cranbrook Ute. She appears to have had an engine swap at some stage as she's a base model with standard shift, 3 speed column shift. This I thought would have had a 23 inch 230 six. I measured the head and it's about 25.5". So that makes it a 251 or 265. Most likely 251cid. The engine number on the left side at the front just below the head is: V 63I259P I've Googled all sorts of things with no results. Can anyone shine some light on this?
  10. So I've started working on my next project - a '52 Plymouth Suburban. It's in remarkable shape except for some small rust-through spots under the accelerator pedal. My plan is to use a working P20 218 I recently purchased for $300 (local Craigslist), mated to a TH200-4R automatic overdrive transmission (also Craigslist). The guy I bought the motor from had it set up that way on a '50 Plymouth wagon, using a Wilcap Adapter, which came with the engine, and said it ran great. He felt that he wanted more power, so he pulled it and replaced it with a SBC. The 200-4R is an overdrive tranny and from my measurements, I don't think I'll need to modify the firewall. I will need to add a support for the rear of the tranny, however. In order to get the most hp/torque out of the 218, I plan to run the 2bbl carb NiftyFifty recently posted about, with spilt exhaust and electronic ignition. I also plan to shave the head, and I've been told I could boost the compression ratio even more by using a thinner head gasket. In looking on ePay, and the usual vendors, thickness is rarely if ever listed. I haven't found a gasket reference chart to compare. How can I find a thinner gasket, and is it really worth the trouble?
  11. So here’s what’s going on. On my Chrysler I like to get better highway gears. I came across a 1960 Plymouth fury rear axle. Was hoping to drop it in but after some research I don’t think I can as my axle is 60” 5x4.5 and my leaf spring mounts would be 47 where the fury is 55.5” 5x4 and spring mounts is 45.5? so this leads me to is could I take the gears from the fury and put into my axle?
  12. So today I got my first project car a 1947 Plymouth p-15 sedan if that’s right I’m 16 and this is all new
  13. Hello Everyone, I recently pulled my grandpa's old Plymouth out of the barn and have been giving it the attention it deserves. He bought it "restored" in 1999-2001 ( he can't remember exactly what year haha). The paint and interior look phenomenal but the engine and drivetrain are original and untouched. It runs and drives but after about 30-45 mins of normal driving it stalls abruptly and just won't stay running. I let it sit for 10 mins and then it fires right up and can make it home. My best guess is that it is vapor locking but I don't know too much about these cars, hence why I joined this forum. What are some suggestions? I have read about heatshields, risers, and heatwrap. What works the best? One more question should I install a fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump or before the carb? I We don't get the best gas around these parts so I want to make sure im not sucking water and dirt into the carb/engine. Thanks in advance and here's some picture of the car.
  14. Can some one tell me what size fuel line I need to run from the fuel pump to the gas tank. Also what size compression nuts I need so that I can flare the ends and connect the new line with the pump and new tank. Thanks. 1948 plymouth deluxe
  15. The PO on my 53 Cranbrook had some jerry rigged gas tank put on the car that didn't really fit right and had clearly been cut and welded. It also used an different style sending unit with the fuel being pulled from there. I was able to buy one of the repo tanks for it from BernBaum. I've got a new gauge unit and hose and everything incoming. But the new tank appears to have a threaded connection in the bottom corner for the fuel pickup. Is there a specific fitting that i should be using there, or is any barbed male end threaded fitting i can find at like autozone acceptable? Just trying to figure out how may things may be original and how many are replaced.
  16. I’ve replaced my 6 volt battery in my 1947 Plymouth two years ago and it appears I now need to replace it again. I’ve only had the Plymouth for 4 years, is this common or should I be buying a special 6 volt battery? thanks, chad
  17. I replaced the front coil springs on my 1947 Plymouth Club Coupe. After installing a Mopar 318 V8 engine the extra weight on the 65 year old stock coils pushed the car down near the bottom control arm bumpers. The car would bottom out alarmingly on moderate road undulations and potholes. An friend of a friend gave me some mystery coils he was never going to use. I have no idea what car they were used in but they were NOS, in the box, and the numbers on the Mopar labels were 71765 and 52039056. The price was right so I tried them out. To my surprise they were the same diameter and height as the stock ones, but seemed stiffer that the old ones. After installing the new springs the car sits at least two inches higher and the ride is much improved. I lost the low stance that I liked. I may go do some follow up work and cut a coil off both springs to get a little lower. I think the stiffness of the springs will prevent bottoming out even if I lower it a bit. I'll try posting photos.
  18. I have a 34 Plymouth that has a 1940 Dodge (D-14) engine in it. The transmission cross member has been hacked up and a welded to the frame cross member (maybe from the 40 Dodge) installed. Is there a way to identify which transmission I have and which bell housing I have? Bell housing is Cast Number 692605-5 (34, 40?). Transmission is now out of car.
  19. Can someone tell me the order to wire this up ? And which spark plug is #1 and #6 on the engine.
  20. Anyone know where I might find factory blueprints for the Dodge / Plymouth flathead six (the 23" short block) engine? Willem Weertman's Chrysler Engines 1922 - 1998 book has some basic line drawings of the '59 Plymouth MP1 version, but I'm looking for more detailed information, e.g. dimensions, etc.
  21. I am attempting to identify a correct Auto-Lite generator for my 1941 Plymouth Special Deluxe (P-12). As I do not have the old one (it's a long story), I researched the specs and determined that it should be an Auto-Lite GDZ-4801-B. I have been unable to find this model but have found several with the GDZ-4801-A part number and other letters. Does anyone have a reference explaining what the letter means at the end of the Auto-Lite part number? Or, even more specifically, the difference between the A and B versions of this generator and whether the A version can be used in this vehicle? I reviewed several Auto-Lite references posted on this forum but none seem to explain the foregoing. Thanks!
  22. I'm looking for these ivory knobs. Or maybe repros. Need some help. Thanks
  23. Hi I’m new to this so bear with me. I have a 49 Plymouth with the flat head straight six in it. I’m having trouble starting from cold unless I pour some fuel down the carb. So Dose any one know if a Weber 34 inch carb be ok to go on it as I’m worried it would be under fueling the engine? Thanks mike
  24. Hey everyone, Recently I have gotten the time (and funds) to continue, and hopefully complete, my engine rebuild on my 230 Flathead. About 6 years ago I purchased a '55 Flathead from a buddy, while taking an engine rebuilding course at my nearby community college. This was after learning my lesson when buying a cracked engine from an unmentionable forum. After finding the one my buddy sold, I began the teardown. I photographed as much of the teardown as I could. I'm also pretty anal (can I say that here?) about labeling everything. I zip-locked each bolt set and labeled their size, count, and where they belonged. Now, here is my issue: After receiving my 230 crank from a local shop I am ready to plastigage it with the bearing caps, but I don't remember how my caps go. Attached is a photograph of my setup. I could have sworn I stamped them, but also notice there's oil caps, as well. I have looked through my Service Manual from 1955 and don't see any diagram or illustration as to the order in which these caps go. I've checked images online of similar engines and nothing close to what I'm looking for. Long story short, if anyone has any photographs of their rebuild on a 230 I would really appreciate a shot of the bottom end install. Also, Could I get away with replacing my Bearing cap bolts with some grade 8 bolts? I have called various suppliers (i.e. Burnaby and Vintage Power Wagons) and they don't carry any. Any info would be appreciated! =Adrian=
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