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Found 73 results

  1. Transmission Identification

    I have a 34 Plymouth that has a 1940 Dodge (D-14) engine in it. The transmission cross member has been hacked up and a welded to the frame cross member (maybe from the 40 Dodge) installed. Is there a way to identify which transmission I have and which bell housing I have? Bell housing is Cast Number 692605-5 (34, 40?). Transmission is now out of car.
  2. Can someone tell me the order to wire this up ? And which spark plug is #1 and #6 on the engine.
  3. Hello All, first time poster, first time builder, looking for some help on a new '51 Suburban project. My grandfather and I are working on this one together; he's lending me his expertise and shop space and I'm giving him a chance to spend some more time in the garage, "grandma-approved". He's been hot rodding Chevys and Fords since he was 14, but when looking for a project to take on we fell in love with this era of Suburbans and it's the first MOPAR he's worked on. We're sticking pretty traditional with our plans for modifications, including a Mustang II style IFS kit. I've seen a lot of debate regarding Fatman products on here, and that was the original direction we were leaning towards as he has two completed projects with their Stage II kit (50 and 31 Chevy pickups). However, the cost of their frame stub has us a bit wary, as it would nearly double the overall price of the kit. My grandpa thinks we can do the measurements and fab work for the stub ourselves, then use a universal kit from Heidts, Fatman or similar and save about $2k. Has anyone gone this route? Any advice would be appreciated.
  4. Anyone know where I might find factory blueprints for the Dodge / Plymouth flathead six (the 23" short block) engine? Willem Weertman's Chrysler Engines 1922 - 1998 book has some basic line drawings of the '59 Plymouth MP1 version, but I'm looking for more detailed information, e.g. dimensions, etc.
  5. I am attempting to identify a correct Auto-Lite generator for my 1941 Plymouth Special Deluxe (P-12). As I do not have the old one (it's a long story), I researched the specs and determined that it should be an Auto-Lite GDZ-4801-B. I have been unable to find this model but have found several with the GDZ-4801-A part number and other letters. Does anyone have a reference explaining what the letter means at the end of the Auto-Lite part number? Or, even more specifically, the difference between the A and B versions of this generator and whether the A version can be used in this vehicle? I reviewed several Auto-Lite references posted on this forum but none seem to explain the foregoing. Thanks!
  6. What do you put on the side of the car
  7. Hi I’m new to this so bear with me. I have a 49 Plymouth with the flat head straight six in it. I’m having trouble starting from cold unless I pour some fuel down the carb. So Dose any one know if a Weber 34 inch carb be ok to go on it as I’m worried it would be under fueling the engine? Thanks mike
  8. Throttle, choke, head light knobs

    I'm looking for these ivory knobs. Or maybe repros. Need some help. Thanks
  9. 1955 Plymouth Brake conversion

    I have a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere and I need to know how to change over to disc brakes. Is there a special part I need for the brake caliper or is there a cheap universal part for it that is cheaper? I'm young and new to the classic/vintage car world so I don't know too much on how to do this.
  10. 1948 Plymouth Rat Rod

    a Rat Rod waiting to live again
  11. New to Plymouth need some help

    So I picked up a what is said to be a Plymouth p15 from 1948. But I'm alittle confused cause the dash doesn't look like any that I've seen online. Im new to this and just wanted to see if its definalty a 1948 .
  12. 1940 chrysler 1941 plymouth grill

    With my chrysler i have a couple small complaints in terms of its looks. I feel the rear tail lights are too small for how big thr back is (any suggestions on bigger lights will be nice) bumpers stick too far out but my biggest beef is the grill. The whole car is curves and i love it. To me it screams aerodynamic (might not actually be the case but the body lines makes sense to me) what doesnt make sense to me is the rectangular grill. Everything is curves then boom lets make a straight grill. What i love to know is, can a 1941 plymouth grill/front face be switched out? I love the look of the 41 plymouth I go for a 1939 plymouth but those square lights....
  13. What is this growing on my engine?

    1949 Plymouth Spec Dlx, have had an intermittent leak for a week. I could see the shine around the bottom of the engine but could not find where it was coming from. First thought it was the fuel pump for various reasons, but the clear liquid did not smell like gas, while checking the oil I just found this clump of yellow crystal-like residue “growing” on the freeze plug. Most likely the source of my leak but what on earth is the build up on the engine?? do I have to pull the engine to replace the plug? more info: I installed a new (modern) 3 core radiator earlier this summer as I was constantly overheating, it solved the problem but my buddy thinks it may be putting too much pressure on the cooling system. Could that be the reason for the leaky freeze plug and the residue?
  14. (Proyect) 1953 Plymouth Hardtop

    Last week I got myself a barn find Plymouth 1953 from an old man that thought it was a 51' dodge, real cheap deal, it's got the flathead six and most parts, lots of metal work to do yet. This is how it arrived at home last weekend.
  15. I bought a 1948 plymouth 3 window business coupe body number 713-3157 I can not find much info on the 1948 3 window the 1950 is first year any real infromation is provided about the 3 window business coupe i would like to know what year was the first 3 window plymouth an how many came off the production line? and if any one can a body number
  16. Hello Everyone, Anyone here in the Minneapolis area, I've got a 1936 Plymouth with a rebuilt motor, I can't get it to run well and am perplexed. I should say that it actually runs beautifully for the first start of the day and until the engine warms up. Once it's warm, the engine won't rev past a certain point anymore and it will cut out and surge, if I bring it up to the RPMs where this starts happening and sustain for a little ways, then it will backfire. None of these symptoms occur when cold. I've messed with everything trying to figure it out, would like to know if there are any experts in my area. Thank You! Jonathan
  17. I have a 48 Plymouth and when I pushed on the clutch and the pedal doesn't come back up at all. Have been messing with it for a couple weeks but can't seem to find the problem. Been looking for springs that might of broke off but I can't find it. Any help or guidance will be great. Thank you
  18. Starter Bendix

    Greetings everyone, I'm in the midst of an engine swap for my 1947 Plymouth and I'm needing some help with my starter. Upon close inspection, it seems like the bendix/screw shaft isn't fully retracting. As you can see in the picture, that's as far down as it will go, maybe a quarter inch. Should it freely move all the way down the screw? The annoying thing is I can't see what's preventing it from moving. Thanks in advance!
  19. Motor ID parts needed

    Our 1950 Dodge truck has a Plymouth engine. When we bought the truck it still had a jasper tag fastened under one of the head bolts. The main seals are leaking pretty bad and we would like to replace them. So I would like to identify what year of plymouth engine this is. Maybe its not possible I dont know. Can any of you experts out there help.? I have included a photo. PI5*36697T
  20. Well-loved wagon

    Well- don't look through the P15 D24 classifieds if you aren't willing to pull the trigger! I have a '51 Suburban project car, and didn't realize that i needed a parts car for it. Actually my '51 has floor and rocker tin-worm issues and this '51 (actually a '52 with a Cambridge passenger car front clip) is solid. A California car, last registered when Jimmy Carter was in the White House, is in remarkably good shape.The folks that owned it reupholstered the seat, not once, but twice. The original Bedford cord with blue piping is still intact, under the layers of 1960's chintz and vinyl. The engine turns over and the brakes have been re-done. I plan to install a modern motor (SBC or baby Hemi) AT, air and probably a MII clip. Those of you that know me are probably wondering how I could have strayed so far from stock, but actually, my '40 Plymouth woodie wagon has a number of modern upgrades (radials, disc brakes, turn signals, dual carbs, split exhaust, etc) but still retains it's somewhat vintage appearance, which is what i hope to achieve with the '52 Suburban, but with more modern running gear. Besides, my wife would only drive it if it had AT and A/C. i will keep you posted.
  21. 47 Plymouth Trunk Badge

    Hey, I've been lurking for a while and have learned a lot! I recently bought my Grandpa's 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe (randomly found it by the side of the road for sale after my uncle sold it to a stranger) and I'm hoping someone can help me figure out what the holes in the trunk might be for. Neither my Grandpa nor Uncle are around anymore but my Grandpa used to say he thought AAA had badges that might fit there. Any ideas? Thanks!
  22. 1950 Plymouth Club Coupe

    From the album Wahoowins

  23. Play in steering column?

    I've been driving my 48 plymouth with pretty loose steering for a while now. The other day I noticed that I now have some play in the column. The shaft inside the column that the wheel attaches to. I can wiggle the steering wheel up and down, not much, maybe 1/16th or 1/8th inch. Just enough to notice it isn't right. I have the shop manual but all it says is that "there should not be any up and down movement of the steering wheel at the steering column jacket." It does not make it clear how to fix that issue. In the exploded view it looks like that shaft goes all the way from the steering wheel down through the worm gear, is that right? I'm wondering what I should look for to take that movement out of the steering wheel. If anyone's had this issue before. Thanks!
  24. Need Surfboard!

    Almost done! I am 99% done with the wagon, which is a good thing since Woodies on the Wharf in Santa Cruz, is only 10 days away! My son Jeff is helping me do the final door fitment, reattach the running boards, and do the final systems check. We painted it in my shop 2 weeks ago, and I plan to take it to my cousin's tire shop on Monday to have the alignment checked and to make sure I didn't leave out some critical component. We plan to drive it to the show from home (Sanger), a 300 mile round trip, and just heard that the weather will be hot that day-107 degrees, so we will be leaving early. I need one last part and I'm not sure exactly what it looks like-it's the spare tire holder-the metal piece that rotates down on to the spare to hold it in place. Plymouth mounted the spare inset into the back of the front seat, so it's definitely unusual. Something about being more easily accessible for the ladies, I think. Any Plymouth woodie owners out there have a pic? Cheers! Bob
  25. Brake Questions for '55 Plymouth

    Hello all, I'm new here and relatively new to vintage Mopars but I love to learn. I've learned a lot working on our '55 Plymouth Savoy. It has a 230 and 3 speed manual and remains original. It seems in many ways this car is a lot closer to the earlier Plymouths and Dodges than the 57-up Forward Look cars. So that's why I'm here to learn a little more about these cars and continue working on small improvements while we enjoy the Savoy. Its such a transition car, new 50's lines but an old flathead and 6V system. Very fun to work on so far... During a replacement of the master cylinder on the Plymouth, I noticed there were some leaky wheel cylinders on the front of the car. I pulled the drum and noticed a big mess, and cleaned things and replaced the cylinders. I plan to do the rest of the wheel cylinders and shoes since they're probably all shot. Sadly, the brake shoe retainer on the front was missing and appeared to have rusted off years ago. My questions are 1. Does anyone reproduce the shoe retainers clips, or do I need to find another used backing plate? These are the two that are held on with rivets to the backing plate. 2. I have to turn the drums, and they may be beyond their limit. Is there anyone out there with new front or rear drums? (I'm still waiting to hear from Kanter and Bernbaum). Thanks for any advice and I love the forums. Learned a lot already about valve adjustment and other mechanical tips I'll definately apply.