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Found 8 results

  1. Hey Guys, I'm chasing an overheating symptom. It's a 1950 230ci with external bypass. I've just started driving the truck, first couple of trips temp gauge hung around 180 degrees, was 90 outside but truck ran good. Now it's cooler out but dash gauge reads hot ~200 and up to 212 when I shut it down. Could junk have moved around and partially plugged thermostat...? ( I had pulled all freeze plugs, and water dist tube on this motor and purged tons of junk. I dumped the rad and ran water but never really flushed it as I was afraid to cause a leak. Radiator seems to burp a bit of anti freeze each time, down overflow tube - indication of something? I filled Rad to top and ran truck to see if I could see flow from the water pump, cannot see if there is flow at top fill port. Top hose is hot to the touch bottom hose is cooler. Does that indicate the the thermostat is working properly, rad is not plugged, and the water pump is working correctly? How does system work though Tstat> Does water flow into top of rad from block and out bottom of rad back into block? I used my laser temp gauge to hit all parts of the motor a couple of different times. Net is exhaust side of block is 300+ head just above is 170deg, fitting where bulb end of temp gauge is 160, all areas on head 160, block 165, top of rad 156, bottom of rad 70 antifreeze in top of rad 155. Seems the engine is actually controlling as it should? The dash gauge climbing through the roof just has me nervous. I'm trying to convince myself that the engine is running at 160 but feel like I'm missing something...anyone have a gauge run away like this? Are these gauges adjustable or able to calibrate? Any thoughts or suggestions? Best way to determine if water pump is working to verify rad has proper flow to verify thermostat working and enough flow The rad seems period correct, but it didn't bolt right in, I had to weld up a bracket - I think it's from a desoto car. the lip where the cap attaches has an overflow tube above the sealing surface, seems it should have a pressurized cap...should our engines run pressurized or not? and if so what psi? Idea why rad burps each time, maybe I have rad too full? All info welcome! thanks, J
  2. My P15 is running a little hot so I've been thinking about doing a rad flush with this. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/prestone-radiator-flush-plus-cleaner-0380811p.html#srp Is it safe to use this crap in my 70 year old rad? thanks!
  3. Bob Riding

    Woodie show and no tow!

    My wife and I just returned from the 10th Annual Woodies in the Valley show in Visalia CA yesterday but weren't sure we were going to make it home without a tow truck I've been driving the '40 Plymouth now for a couple of years and I've never had an overheating problem, including driving around in the summer at temperatures over 100°. I got the motor from an old Mopar racer who had rebuilt it, new distribution tube, etc. and it always ran like a top. It had 160° thermostat, which after reading various posts here, seemed like I was asking for sludge trouble in the future (apparently the engine doesn't get hot enough to burn off the moisture which creates problems), so I did what you're not supposed to do right before a trip and changed the thermostat to a 180° unit from Napa. Immediately the gauge registered 20° hotter which made sense. We left Saturday morning, outside temperature in the 50s, and drove 60 miles on the freeway with no issues. We had a lot of fun at the show, caught up with old friends, tc., and then caravanned through the countryside, which included driving through some small local downtown areas very slowly. Outside temps were in the low 70s. Immediately it pegged the temperature gage – I couldn't even see the needle it was so far off the scale. We pulled over and clouds of steam were coming out of the bottom area of the radiator. After cooling down we added water only, and filled it to overflowing. As I was looking among the group for some anti-freeze, a couple of the old-timers told me that unpressurized flatheads do better in hot weather with pure water rather than an anti-freeze mix. Now with more water than coolant,in the stock, honeycomb radiator, the gauge went back down to about 170° and stayed there the whole rest of the trip. I had never heard this before- I would think that adding anything to water would change its boiling point and be better. Thoughts?
  4. Hello, first off let me say a pre thank you to anyone who takes an interest or provides me with any kind of insight. I have for years been cruising automotive forums whenever my vehicles have started acting up. i have found a wealth of information and helpfulness to pretty much diagnose, if not fix almost every problem. So far, so good...sort of. Anyway i have never signed up for any forum before and was content to just scout as a guest. Well. Last November I fulfilled a boyhood fantasy and bought a vintage pick up. I have since, been learning( almost daily it seems) about the joys of owning such a piece of history. I thought it was time to sign up, while looking through this forum the first picture i happen across was a 49 Fargo 1/2 ton...just like mine. i have since speculated mine to be a 50/51 as looking at pictures mine has the later grill, although the registration is 49. though the engine does have a tag that say " remanufactured by the chrysler method" and is dated 1956. Ok, so i have had a pretty lovely intoduction to vintage vehicles thus far. 3 weeks after purchase my head gasket went( the first time). Sad fargo sat for a month while i discovered how much fun it was to find parts for a 25 inch canadian made chrysler 251 flathead 6. Thank you vintagepowerwagons.com. After pulling the head off and discovering the cooling systems was for lack of a better word, Hooped. i set about gathering a new water pump, hoses, gasket set, APR head studs, rotor, cap, plugs, coil, leads,oil, etc. I had the rad flushed, had the head planed and magnafluxed, cleaned the water distribution tube, wire wheeled the top of the block and pistons. blew out all the water out of the intake. got all the crud out ( at least i thought). cleaned up the carb as best i could( so not a carb guy), rebuilt the distributor( ok my dad did) So, old motor, no idea how long it had been like that. Head gasket replacement, to be expected right. ya. ive heard these flatties will blow a gasket from time to time. no worries, i installed studs so a head replacement is no biggie... ok im getting to the point. so my head gasket has gone twice now, and im suspecting its going again. just before the second time, it started making this weird flapping noise, which kinda matches the rpms and then it just gets kinda slower. at first there is no loss of power, then it definitely does. I shut it off before anything came gushing out the tail pipe, as i don't want the rods to hydraulic. First, does anyone know what this noise is? and is there something i can do to help eliminate the possibility of blowing another gasket. Could it be the timing. As it is hard to set by gun, I've been told to "listen" for it. Second, as its like 3 head gaskets in like realistically 3 months, am i fighting a losing battle here. granted there are lots of determining factors , but I've combed through a lot of reading and have tried a lot of things to get it fixed. Don't get me wrong, it runs great when it runs.
  5. Obed57chev

    Coolant leak on my Flathead 6

    I replaced my water pump twice but it still has a drip from off the oilpan near the front. Could it be a leak from a timing cover bolt? I don't remember if any of these bolts go thru to the water jackets in the block. My Engine is from a 1946 Dodge 218 or 230 I think, but it came in my 1934 Plymouth when I bought it. I love the way it runs and drives, but this has become pretty annoying. AJ
  6. Comments and advice welcome...frequent reader...rare that I post or comment... I have a 1941 P12 engine and transmission in a 1936 Dodge d2 Touring Sedan. Rebuilt in 1988 with 0.020 overbore. Just changed the water pump and all hoses, new 160 thermo, new radiator cap (original style from Bernbaums), and tune up. During the water pump change, I did not pull the Welsh plugs...I did have the radiator hot tanked. I also flushed, in every direction possible, the engine block and the heater core. I used a garden hose with about 60psi from a 3/4" feed line and used soapy water. The water tube in the block looked to be in excellent condition and I was easily able to run a smaller hose at least 18" into the tube. There was virtually no sludge and the water was quickly running clear enough that it looked like you could drink it. I then flushed in the reverse direction from the water pump opening in the block. I did this twice in each direction...again, the water was clear and coming out with great force...virtually no sludge. After completing the reinstalls, I drove the car for over 120 miles in stop and go traffic (East TN in August...90+ with unbelievable humidity) over the next three days. The car barely got over 180 on a reliable mechanical gauge. The car even idled in the sun for at least 30 minutes without a hiccup. All of this occurred while running without the hood on. Speeds ranged from 30 mph in city driving to 55 mph for a13 mile stretch of hilly highway. The longest continuous trip without shutting the engine off was easily over 1 hour. After returning home and cooling down each time, I verified the coolant level (although I did forget and put in a 50/50 mix) to let the car get in its happy place. I then put the hood back on to drive the car to a show. My trip was to be a total of 70 miles one way with the middle 20 miles on the interstate (55-60 mph). Most of the trip is hilly with speeds in the 45mph continuous range and under moderate to fairly heavy load. The first 30 miles was trouble free, though the gauge climbed to 190+ on the steepest hills. I stopped to fill the fuel tank just before getting on the interstate (17.9 mpg, by the way). While sitting at the station, I noticed that the gauge eased up to almost 205. I then got on the interstate...max speed for any duration was under 60, with most at a continuous 55. Within 7 miles, the gauge was at 225. I stopped to eat a bite and let her cool off. She spit out about 2 cups of antifreeze. Starting back, she was under 180 on the gauge. Within 5 miles, she was back over 225. Stopped again...cooled again...then made it off the interstate onto 35 mph city roads. She just kept getting hotter and hotter. When I heard her hiss, I pulled into a parking lot...she boiled almost 3 gallons out the overflow tube. I sat for an hour to let her cool enough to touch the head and water neck before refilling. This time, I filled her at 70/30. Within 5 miles, she overheated again...pegged the gauge...and spit up her hissy when I stopped at the show. I will digress and wait for your help...and it will be appreciated. Mike
  7. Pipewrench_Dale

    Strange Heating Problem

    I have a 1940 Desoto Business coupe. The engine is a 265 industrial Flathead from 1953 or 54. The thing is that all of a sudden this car have started to run really hot.... but only when I use anti-freeze. If i run it with only pure water in the radiator it stays cool, but as soon as I put anti-freeze in it it starts to heat up and lingers right on the edge of overheating. This happens when I cruise down the highway or have the car idling on the driveway. Ive compared the temperature in the radiator when using only water or water/anti-freeze mixture. Theres basicly no difference it runs at about 122 F. So I would say that the radiator does its job and the difference is the temperature of the the engine. Looking at the tempgauge on the dash it runs at about 180 with only water and 212 with anti freeze (basicly it bottoms out the temp gauge). Ive tried to solve it but now Im out of ideas. What Ive done so far is this Flushed the entire cooling system 4-5 times using both of the shelf radiator cleaners and traditional machine wash tablets. The water pump is new as the old on started to leak o few months back. Ive inspected the thermostat and it opens as it should.
  8. PodSquad48

    Runnin' Hot

    So Ive replace the thermostat (180) and water pump and my 48 Plymouth is overheating. After about 15 mins. of warm up Im getting steam from, what appears to be, the overflow tube. I have checked for vac. leaks and timing and everything seems to be correct. I was running straight water at the time but didnt expect this after just 15 minutes. Im taking the radiator down for a flush and flow test tomorrow. Im worried they'll want to just re-core it, another $2-300 I've heard. Also wondering if I should pull the water distribution tube while the radiator is out and replace it. I did flush the system and everythings clear, which may be cause for concern if its so clogged it just flows clear water? Any tips or recommendations are appreciated!

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