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I've been trying to get the horns to work on my P15 - they did not work at all. So I ran all the procedures in the service manual for diagnosing a horn that won't sound. At each diagnosis step, the horn sounded or the lights on the tester lit up; in this case, the manual says to replace the horn relay. So, I've replaced the horn relay with a NOS one just like the one that was in the car. Now, when I turn the ignition on, the horn sounds continuously and stops when I press the horn ring down on the steering wheel. So, I guess it did need a new horn relay! The wiring diagram shows 4 lines into or out of the horn relay: - Wire to the horns - Wire to the negative ignition coil terminal - Wire to the horn button - Wire to....I'm not sure how to read this last one. In the diagram, the last wire goes across the big black cable that goes from the battery to the solenoid switch; the wire line passes very close to the solenoid switch and then goes on to the ammeter. On my car, this last wire is connected from the B terminal on the horn relay directly to a post on the solenoid switch, and the big battery cable is connected to the same post. And, I have a fifth wire connected to the same post as the negative ignition coil wire. This fifth wire joins a bundle of thick green and red wires that run back through the firewall. I tried disconnecting this fifth wire just to see what happens, but then the horn doesn't work at all. And, the hood ornament light no longer comes on when I turn on the ignition. Thoughts? Is the extra wire the positive ground perhaps? I'm wondering if the extra wire is some hack to get around the old broken relay so that the car would start. But it doesn't look like a hack wire since it seems to be the end of a legit wire that runs back with other legit wires back through the firewall.

I took the steering wheel off to paint it. I repaired a few small cracks, primed and painted the wheel with rustoleum primer and gloss top coat. It came out OK, not concours, but I am happy with it. The wheel has a full horn ring and before I took it apart the horn would only work if you pressed the top of the ring. While I had it apart I inspected and cleaned everything, then carefully put it back together. The horn still only works by pressing the top of the ring. It appears that there is not enough rocking motion when pushing the bottom half of the ring, but I don't see how to correct it. Is there a simple fix, or is this common to all D24's?

Does anyone know about this cover ?.It covers the front of the raditator and and horns. What's it called, and what years had it ? Thx

How di I safely remove the black "button" to get at the horn rim? Thanks, folks!

I managed to find an original horn advertised as "working." of course, I wanted to test it as soon as it arrived. I used the larger runtz that I plan to use for the heater fan to drop the voltage since the horn is 6V. when I put the runtz between the battery and the horn, it made a short grumble that I doubt would be audible from inside the hood. When I connected the horn straight to the battery, it sounded off quite nicely. My hearing has returned. Here are my questions did I used too much resistance the first try so that It didn't get the 6V it needed? Will running 12V through one of these horns damage the mechanism? there doesn't seem to be any electronics to damage, just an electromagnet. the horn is labelled "THE ELECTRIC AUTO-LITE CO". 6-VOLT, MAD IN U.S.A. Thanks for your thoughts.

After looking for a while, I've found a horn ring/button that's mostly flat and has a good shine. when preparing to install, I discovered that I'll need one or two additional parts that I haven't seen offered. I'm missing the lower plate (the one that mounts to the wheel and has the fingers to hold the ring in place). according to the parts manual on the DPETCA site, it's part number 657953. 8-33-65 (lower one) on the illustration. According to the list, it doesn't appear that a 52 1/2 ton would use the lower spring, but I can't figure out why not. If needed, the spring would be part number B1390694 or 657954. 8-33-30 on the illustration. does anyone know a source for these parts and/or know if the spring is needed for a 52 1/2 ton B3? Thanks so much for your help Bob

ok, I've been beating my head around this all morning since 6AM. Since building FEF I've never had a working horn. I decided it was the Sunday to tackle the issue and get one of the "last" 3 things checked off the list. So, follow along and see if you can fill in my brain fart. If I short the horn to the block it works If I short the horn wire at the steering wheel to the pedal starter is works. RESULT: the horn wiring is just fine I measure the resistance from a steering box mounting bolt exposed thread to the tranny (or any other ground under the cab) at 0.3 ohm I measure the resistance from the starter pedal to the mounting screw for the gauge cluster at 0.3 ohm I measure the resistance from the steering wheel nut to the assembly in the steering wheel at 0.3 ohm I measure the resistance from the steering wheel nut to the gauge mounting screw OR the starter pedal at over 14 ohm RESULT: I don't have a good ground somehow WHY am I not getting continuity on the steering column if the box is grounded at one of it's mounting bolts? Should not all the sector gears and such not ground thru the casting of the steering box as the threads on the bolts should have dang good contact on the threads in the casting?

I am missing a couple parts for the horn assembly on my '48 Dodge truck. Fortunately, I believe I have the hard to find parts, but I'm looking for an actual picture of the parts from the horn button back. I believe I am missing the spring and the contact washer that resides between the spring immediately under the button and the wiring. I'll need to fabricate something.