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The front end of my gas tank has a fitting screwed into it having a barb on the outlet end and a 5/16 inch single flare on the end that screws into the tank. To me, the barb implies that a rubber gas line to the carb was used at some point. Is that correct? Also, I'd rather not use plastic or rubber fuel line nor this barbed/single flare fitting. Instead I think it would be much better to install 5/16 inch CuNi brake line and use a double flare fitting to screw into the tank. Does this sound like a good way to go? Will a new double-flared line make a good seal with the gas tank which was apparently built using a single flare fitting inside the tank? Any suggestions about the best and safest way to get gas from the tank to the carburetor are welcome at this point. Fitting Tank Internal Fitting

Anybody using a portable fuel tank in their old vehicle? I've been using and 6 gal. outboard boat fuel tank with a quick disconnect on my 1948 B1B while working on it in my driveway. Liked the way it was working out. Only a small quantity of fuel dedicated to the truck. It has a manual vent plug that can be opened when running the truck and can be closed to help prevent air from getting to the10% ethanol in the fuel. Had a plan to purchase another tank so would have 12 gallons on board. When one tank got low would be able to disconnect from it and reconnect to the full tank. When I did Internet search for the new tank found out these poly tanks are not DOT approved. Guess they're OK for running boat motors on the water but not vehicle motors on the roadways. Anyhow, started an internet search for DOT approved fuel tanks. Seems that manufacturer supplied tanks supplied on the vehicle are approved. Then there other regulations for tanks that are used to transport fuel that are not supplying fuel to the transporting vehicle, i.e. if you are transporting fuel in portable tanks in the back of a pickup truck for example. As can be expected these regs will make your head spin, but know if not followed correctly the fines involved would likely spin your head right off. I checked on buying a new replacement tank as seems to be recommended by this forum but was wondering if anybody was using something other than the stock fuel tank. Regards to all and enjoy the upcoming 4th of July holiday.

Anybody using a portable fuel tank in their old vehicle? I've been using and 6 gal. outboard boat fuel tank with a quick disconnect on my 1948 B1B while working on it in my driveway. Liked the way it was working out. Only a small quantity of fuel dedicated to the truck. It has a manual vent plug that can be opened when running the truck and can be closed to help prevent air from getting to the10% ethanol in the fuel. Had a plan to purchase another tank so would have 12 gallons on board. When one tank got low would be able to disconnect from it and reconnect to the full tank. When I did Internet search for the new tank found out these poly tanks are not DOT approved. Guess they're OK for running boat motors on the water but not vehicle motors on the roadways. Anyhow, started an internet search for DOT approved fuel tanks. Seems that manufacturer supplied tanks supplied on the vehicle are approved. Then there other regulations for tanks that are used to transport fuel that are not supplying fuel to the transporting vehicle, i.e. if you are transporting fuel in portable tanks in the back of a pickup truck for example. As can be expected these regs will make your head spin, but know if not followed correctly the fines involved would likely spin your head right off. I checked on buying a new replacement tank as seems to be recommended by this forum but was wondering if anybody was using something other than the stock fuel tank. Regards to all and enjoy the upcoming 4th of July holiday.

Great day in the garage today ! WOW. Hung the reconditioned gas tank. Finished installing new inner fenders. Cleaned & painted firewall . Started putting firewall hardware back together. ( see before and after ) It's a GOOD tired and aches today :-) Clay

My new fuel tank just arrived from Andy Bernbaum. It's identical to the original. It feels like the same weight and the build quality looks to match the original. Of course, I'll know more when it's full of gas.

Hi, new to the forum. I have a 51 b3b truck. I'm replacing the fuel tank. My question is this. Do you need to use the springs and bolts or can it be bolted to the frame directly. Thanks for any input.

Where can I find a fuel sending unit for my 48 B1D? will a universal work and what ohms?

Some of you know that sometime back I purchased a new fuel tank from Tanks Inc. I figured that I was just going to use the original straps, instead of the aluminum ones that came with it because they were in good shape, so I thought. The original ones worked, but the only problem is that they barely tightened into the long bolt head that is used to attach and tighten the tank to the bottom of the trunk. As seen in this photo, this is as far as I could get it to tighten with the new tank. Though the tank felt tightly snug, I didn't like the idea of the bolt end not being able to go in all the way. When I did the other side, the bolt snapped from where it was riveted to the strap. I must have tried to tighten it too tight. Of course, this tank is a bit taller than the original. This bummed me out because I really wanted to stay with the originals because of the way they attached behind the fuel tank to the body of the car, as if they locked in place. So I tried to see what I could do with the new ones that were sent with the tank, but I didn't like the fact that they were aluminum, and not steel. I tried to get those to work, but ended up messing them up. So I thought on how I could still salvage the old ones and make them stronger, as well, based on the design of the new straps. So here is what I came up with... I figured that I had to extend the ends of the straps that the bolt ends were riveted to by a few inches so that it would fit around the tank just right. Since I don't have my own machine shop to fabricate things, I decided to go to Lowe's and look around for something that might work. So I found this below. Not sure what it's called, but I found it in the construction section of the store. I took the original and the new strap with me to see if it would be long enough to work as an extension, and it did. So I got that, new bolts, nuts and lock washers, as well as new bolts to connect it to the original strap. Then, I drilled out the old rivets that were holding the bolt end piece to the strap. After that, I took the ends of the original pieces and pounded them straighter. Then, I took the new angled pieces and drilled the bottom hole a little bigger, then one above it to match, according to how the holes were on the strap. Then, took the other side and drilled a 3/8" hole. Then, I cut the end off where the bigger hole was drilled and removed the burrs and sharp edges with a flat file. Then, I bolted the new piece to the old strap. Later today, I will clean it up, paint it black and put rubber back on the inside of it, then hook install the tank. Not the prettiest thing, but I'm sure it will do the job. I will get back and let you know how the installation goes.