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Found 10 results

  1. Hi everyone, I am new to this board. I have purchased a 51 Plymouth Cranbrook Belvedere with stock 218 flathead 6 that I will be trailoring home next month. I've been scouring the internet looking for ideas on a dual carb, dual exhaust setup for this engine. I have seen people using everything from weber 32's, to strombergs, to holley 94's, to 9 super 7's for twin carb setups. I would prefer to stick with a pair of carter ball and balls to stay true to period. I see the offenhauser dual carb manifold available on summit racing with two hole flanges which appears to made for original carter carbs. I am looking for the right pair of carter ball and balls to pair with this engine. My homework tells me I need two single barrel carbs which are approx 125 cfm's apiece based on the amount of air the 218 is capable of sucking. I didn't a picture of the stampings on the existing carb, but it looks like this car would have rolled out of the factory with either the Carter BB D6H1, or D6H2. Just looking for advice on a pair of Carters for this setup, I don't want to be running rich, want to be right in the sweet spot. I cannot find any technical specs on any of the old Carters on the web anywhere, if someone has a pdf file or link on this can you please share, or just let me know what has worked/hasn't worked from personal experience. Not looking to get performance crazy, just looking for a modest step up in performance. I may add an aftermarket head for a modest increase in compression at some point down the road. I'm at 7100' above sea level which means I'm already losing HP, and will need to run smaller jets than most of you. I want to stay stock but will need every ounce of HP this engine can make, without spending thousands of dollars on boring cylinders, performance cam, etc. Thanks in advance, Greg for SW CO.
  2. hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic)
  3. Trying to start engine after 5 years sitting. All necessary parts replaced. Engine will not fire. There was not a air cleaner on motor when acquired. Any help would be appreciated.
  4. hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic)
  5. TylerB46

    Head bolts

    Hey guys, I’ve been looking around for some head bolts for my 230 engine and I can’t seem to find very many options as far as head bolts go, so I just wanted to ask what you all use and where you get them?
  6. Hey folks, I got a 46 WC 1/2 ton, and I'm wanting to know how to tell what year the engine in it was made. I'm thinking it's a 230, but the serial number was filed off for some reason. I heard the year it was made should be stamped below the distributor, and on this engine it says A1 then right below that it has 6 5 7. So would this engine have been made in June of 57? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  7. Clarksville Windsor

    1950 Water pump removal/installation

    New topic: Water pump removal. Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump. How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature). I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated? I am looking forward to some suggestions. Thanks Guys! On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....
  8. Clarksville Windsor

    1950 Spitfire problems

    First post on P15-d24....and just signed on to this website. I have a couple of quick questions since I am new to the 1950 era cars. 1st, how could my spitfire's 3 cylinders go bad? I was driving the car and was running great. It started coughing and acting up a little, then within 5 minutes, the car could barely run. Mechanic said engine needs to be replaced. Not sure if mechanic knows much on these old cars. So, how did he car go from running like a top, to 3 cylinders that went bad (horrible compression from what mechanic said)? If I need to have it rebuilt, what would be the general costs to have an engine like that be overhauled? I really like the car and I enjoy driving it, I just want it fixed....please help. Also, I am from Clarksville Michigan, not Clarksville Tennessee.
  9. Jarv69

    Jarv69

    I swapped out 218 to 230 kept 218 fly wheel , shaved bellhousing around starter so would hit ring, put tranny shaft through to line up clutch plate the tightened, now I'm wondering if I need a pilot bearing as the 230 cam didn't have as it had the HI -DRIVE. From what I recall seeing is that there's no room for one since HI - DRIVE. Regards!
  10. bighammer48

    1936 Plymouth P2

    Hi Folks. The fuel pump in my '36 blew out --- a victim of unleaded alcohol-containing fuel I guess. Anyhow, the old pump came out in 10 minutes. However, I struggled for 2 hours and couldn't even get a bolt started on the new pump, then gave up for the day. I turned the engine by hand off "high-cam" and still no luck. Anybody have any suggestions about changing an old flathead fuel pump in tight quarters. Also, I obtained a heat shield, but cannot figure out how it goes no matter how I position it.
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