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Found 6 results

  1. Hey folks, I got a 46 WC 1/2 ton, and I'm wanting to know how to tell what year the engine in it was made. I'm thinking it's a 230, but the serial number was filed off for some reason. I heard the year it was made should be stamped below the distributor, and on this engine it says A1 then right below that it has 6 5 7. So would this engine have been made in June of 57? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  2. 1950 Water pump removal/installation

    New topic: Water pump removal. Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump. How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature). I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated? I am looking forward to some suggestions. Thanks Guys! On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....
  3. Trying to start engine after 5 years sitting. All necessary parts replaced. Engine will not fire. There was not a air cleaner on motor when acquired. Any help would be appreciated.
  4. 1950 Spitfire problems

    First post on P15-d24....and just signed on to this website. I have a couple of quick questions since I am new to the 1950 era cars. 1st, how could my spitfire's 3 cylinders go bad? I was driving the car and was running great. It started coughing and acting up a little, then within 5 minutes, the car could barely run. Mechanic said engine needs to be replaced. Not sure if mechanic knows much on these old cars. So, how did he car go from running like a top, to 3 cylinders that went bad (horrible compression from what mechanic said)? If I need to have it rebuilt, what would be the general costs to have an engine like that be overhauled? I really like the car and I enjoy driving it, I just want it fixed....please help. Also, I am from Clarksville Michigan, not Clarksville Tennessee.
  5. Jarv69

    I swapped out 218 to 230 kept 218 fly wheel , shaved bellhousing around starter so would hit ring, put tranny shaft through to line up clutch plate the tightened, now I'm wondering if I need a pilot bearing as the 230 cam didn't have as it had the HI -DRIVE. From what I recall seeing is that there's no room for one since HI - DRIVE. Regards!
  6. 1936 Plymouth P2

    Hi Folks. The fuel pump in my '36 blew out --- a victim of unleaded alcohol-containing fuel I guess. Anyhow, the old pump came out in 10 minutes. However, I struggled for 2 hours and couldn't even get a bolt started on the new pump, then gave up for the day. I turned the engine by hand off "high-cam" and still no luck. Anybody have any suggestions about changing an old flathead fuel pump in tight quarters. Also, I obtained a heat shield, but cannot figure out how it goes no matter how I position it.
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