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Found 27 results

  1. Body / Engine Number 42 Dodge

    Hello, Is possible to get more informations only with body / engine number? I own a 42 Dodge and serial number tag is not there. Thanks
  2. I am working on a 1937 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup with a 218ci 6-cylinder. The engine number stamped on my block is: T38-8085. The engine spun the #2 rod bearing and cracked the crankshaft. I have located a crankshaft and set of rods out of a 1953 Dodge B4B with a 218 ci engine, and I am hoping to use this crank as a replacement. The B4B engine is stamped with T306*I57323*. Unfortunately, I do not have the crankshaft casting numbers readily available. My question is, are these crankshafts interchangeable? Or can this only be determined from the crankshaft casting numbers?
  3. So I am brand new to the forum. I am wrapping up a restoration on an MGB and am just starting to restore a 1948 B1B. A bit crazy going from a roadster to pickup, but I have always loved the old pickups. Anyway, the ‘48has a seized flathead six. Absent pulling it apart, I have done all the standard tricks to break it loose. Based on the Engine number it appears to be out of a Plymouth as the number begins with a P. I have located, for a reasonable cost another flathead six that runs and has good compression, but it has an engine number I cannot seem to track down KDSb*IbI7I. The “b” could be a six, but the KD is totally throwing me off track. I attached a picture for reference. Does anyone know what this came out of? I am assuming it is a 218 thanks
  4. Wayfarer Engine removal

    Hi guys. advice required. I'm about ready to pull the motor out of my '49 Dodge wayfarer. The transmission is 3 speed manual with fluid drive. I know I have to separate the engine and trans, before I lift the motor out, but I need to know whether I have to remove the transmission, and leave the fluid coupling/clutch and bell housing on the motor, and then remove that unit after the motor is out ??. If I tried to remove the trans WITH the bell housing/clutch etc, the motor would become unstable because the bell housing casting sits on the rear mounts. Looks like common sense, but any advice welcome. Also, when lifting the motor out, will it be necessary to remove the radiator yoke (mounting panel ?), or, should it clear ? (using an engine hoist, not overhead lifting block and tackle) Regards, BB.
  5. Engine Removal

    Thinking about removing the engine in my B1D-126 over xmas break and was wondering if anyone here has any tips or suggestions on the removal? Thanks!
  6. Hey folks, I got a 46 WC 1/2 ton, and I'm wanting to know how to tell what year the engine in it was made. I'm thinking it's a 230, but the serial number was filed off for some reason. I heard the year it was made should be stamped below the distributor, and on this engine it says A1 then right below that it has 6 5 7. So would this engine have been made in June of 57? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
  7. Block numbers

    Looking for some help to decipher and ID a 25" flathead engine I'm looking at. I do know this is a Canadian engine and am being told by the seller that it is a 1960 251ci but I'd like to confirm the year of this engine. I am almost certain that it is a 251ci as when I looked at the engine we pulled the head and the measurements match those of a 251. The numbers are as follows ID stamp pad P6D1 - 33657C Block casting/part number 1402529 Block date stamp E 19 0 and the number arrow is pointing at the #8 Head casting/part number 1632389 Head date stamp D 11 0 I have tried multiple web searches to try to decipher this but there doesn't seem to be much out there on the Canadian number on these things. This engine is a rebuilt with very low mile on it since the rebuild, it is in really good shape and complete ready to drop in with a very reasonable price. The engine did come out of a car and has the fluid drive bell-housing with the coupler/convertor and clutch as well as a Pertronics 12V ignition system (I don't know if I will actually use this ignition as the points have been very dependable but it comes with the engine). The deal seem way too good to pass up and will be a much less expensive fix for the sick flathead in my Fargo. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm not going for a concourse resto so the year of the engine doesn't make a huge difference (plus I plan to keep the one currently in the truck which is the original engine to the truck) this more for my own piece of mind and knowledge.
  8. I'm trying to stay with all original engine colors so I'm wondering about the various engine and transmission parts colors. Here's what I think the colors should be... (but some are pure guesses on my part)... Black: 1. Oil Filter Canister / 2. Crankcase Ventilation Tube / 3. Distributor / 4. Front Motor Support Bracket / 5. Fan / 6. Oil Pan / 7. Emergency Brake Drum Argent (Silver): 1. Block / 2. Head / 3. Oil Pump / 4. Water Pump / 5. Bell Housing / 6. Transmission / 7. Dip Stick Tube Did I miss anything?
  9. '41 Plymouth question

    I had these photos of a '41 Plymouth and noticed the item that appears to be involved in the cooling system. Has anyone here seen this before and can identify it? John R
  10. Hi everyone - looking for feedback on my recently acquired '51 B3B pickup. Not sure the last time that it had run - but on compression test the #2 cylinder I'm getting nothing from (absolutely 0). the others are all around 85 to 110 PSI. Looking down the spark plug hole I do not see anything moving when I crank over the engine (which I presume I'm looking at the cylinder? v's a valve) Depending on costs to repair I'd be tempted to switch out to another frame / engine combo - but checking in to see if I missed something easy / cheap to fix thanks, Jason.
  11. I recently started work on my grandpa's what I think is a 1951, dodge with the 3 rear windows. As far as i know it's a 1 and 1/2 ton truck. The engine has Spitfire on the head. I don't know anything else about the engine other than it may be a 230 and it is stuck, but I think I can get that taken care of. I need help on truck identification, is it a b-3 or... I would also like any information on the brake system and oiling system. I would like to keep it mostly original with the exception of exhaust and maybe a dual carb setup. I have read a lot on here, but I would love to learn more, to get this old truck running again. looks rusty but its thin surface rust.
  12. Engine's Origin

    As I’ve been reading many of the forum topics lately with great interest, I’ve had many of my questions addressed, and those that haven’t, have been resolved by other’s direct input to my questions, which I’m grateful to those who’ve responded to my (hopefully not inane) questions. With that having been said, I have another question: I’ve always tho’t that the engine in this car (’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe Club Coupe) isn’t the original. The first tip-off was that it’s painted blue rather than silver. But, the most convincing factor in my conclusion is that, upon reading the service manual, and the owner’s manual, is the presence of a dashpot (for what I can only assume is for the fluid-drive setup, and available on the Dodge and/or DeSoto, but not the Plymouth)with linkage connected to carburetor that supposedly keeps the engine from stalling during deceleration. Should that be the case, would the engine still be a 218ci, or would it be some other size? Many thanks in advance to those who provide input. Thx.
  13. New to this stuff: I just got a 56 Truck and I want replace the stock 3 speed flathead 6 with a 360 Mopar and overdrive. Will I have to change the differential? What else will I have to change? I am trying to estimate the total cost to do this. thank you for your help
  14. I've completely torn down the engine on my 1950 Chrysler Windsor Sedan, as the engine was seized when I bought it. I have yet to collect any precision measurements (I don't own any machinist's tools), but I did notice a few things as I disassembled the engine, and I'd like to know if any of you have any advice. Primarily concerning me right now is the valve train. While some of the valves slid right out of their guides after I had removed their springs and retainers, there were a few that were so stubborn, they required vice grips, penetrating oil, and nearly an hour of twisting and tugging to remove. What's odd, is that aside from the damage inflicted by my vice grips, I couldn't find any apparent deformities on the stubborn valves. I'm wondering at this point if there's any good way to determine if the problem was my valves, valve guides, or both. Additionally, after finding what's available on Vintage Power Wagons, I've been considering the possibility of installing modern valve seats and valves to allow for the use of unleaded fuel. I hope to one day drive this car daily, and don't want to deal with tracking down and adding a lead substitute at every fill-up. Does anyone here have experience in running these fatheads on unleaded? Do the original valves ruin themselves if you do? This is my first engine rebuild, and any advice on the subject is greatly appreciated.
  15. cab swaps 1948 b1c

    alright guys you all know i have restored a 1950 dodge pickup its an all original truck with numbers matching everything so i have another truck for parts its a 1948 but its engine and drive train are pretty much gone but i ran into yet another free truck a 1979 dodge power wagon w150 it has a 360 v8 in it that runs a little rough but it sat for 15 years and i got it to fire rite up the truck howerver is in decent shape but the dash and everything is ruined and the floor has decent rust. so what im thinking is i have two options junk the 48 and use that cash to fix the 79 and have just a nice power wagon that i can use to junk around with and play...or i could take the body off the 48 and do a simple and i mean simple cab swap no ac no cruise control or what not just power brakes and power steering etc i think it could be a fairly simple job since the 48 is a flat bed truck so i wont have to worry about the wheel base and track width because the truck has a mild lift to it. what do you guys think of this idea and is there anyone out there whos done a similar project this will probably be done in my highschool shop id imagine some simple body mounts since theres only 6 bolts that hold the trucks cab and fenders to the frame so i dont imagine it would be to difficult and then ill just wire up my own wiring harness only using the essentials lights brakes fan and on of switch pretty much basic.. the cruise control and stuff would be nice but lets face it i dont need it... im not sure i love the style of the 79 as it is its just kinda a rough body for what it is...just give me your thoughts on what you think i should do thank you!! also im only 17 so tips would be great !!!
  16. so i have my old 1950 dodge b2c and im rebuilding my engine well making it look new again and painting it and cleaning it in the process i am pulling everything apart cleaning and painting things when i took off my distributor i realized that my Vacuum advance on the distributor isnt working i pulled it off and sucked on it surely enough nothing happened and i already rebuilt my distributor and dont feel like buying a whole new one were can i get this part? i went to 3 [parts stores and they had nothing. im hoping this will fix my trucks running issues thank you ! ill [post before and after pics of my engine later for all you interested it looks beautiful for only spending 200 dollars spiffing it up and some elbow grease
  17. so i have this 1949 dodge parts truck its axle is different from my 1950 dodge b2c my dad and i realize the thing is a pain in the ass to push and turn and he asked me if there was a way to check what rear end this may have he thinks its a spicer. does anyone know if that was a factory option back in 1949?? he said it could make the value go up a few hundred or keep it to put in my original truck. any help would be great and if you have a 1949 4 speed truck could you show me a pic of your rear axles? if its any chance that a spicer would be on there that would be great!!
  18. 218 L6 oiling system

    So, yet another question!!! this truck has new oil in it brand new almost! never even ran engine on the oil. and the engine had no water in it (in the cooling system) so my oil is milky white like it has water in it. I just think its a bad head gasket seal. but heres my main problem i know they dont push a lot of oil pressure and ive never exactly got the engine to run but it has oil in it like i said but even after the hours ive spent cranking it over there seems to be absolutely no oil in the oil filter how is that possible?? does the engine only push oil to it if its warmed up? what can you tell me about this issue because im days from tuning my engine and id hate to seize the engine!!! please help!! again i know nothing about how this oil system works!!! my filter was replaced about 2 years ago doesnt seem like oil has ever touched it??
  19. Hi everyone Im new to this forum. Im 17 and have been building my dodge truck since I was 12, ive done all the work myself and payed for it. Its been a dream working on it and i now own two of them (parts truck and original) but heres my problem my shop manual has one firing order, that when i turn the engine over knowing theres spark (ive rebuilt carb. new spark plugs, etc shes all new.) it does nothing once in a while like for a half hour of cranking it pops very slightly but wont start. so i test the spark .25 inch gab of spark then i try the firing order at 153624 and all i get is a ton of back firing and popping and stuff it ran once about 2 years ago and i havent changed a thing it didnt run to well and everything is right ive checked it a good 40 times. it fires but like its timing is off and so i adjust it and get nothing.... ive been stalled for 2 years because it wont come to life.. and i need help this truck is perfect all except it doesnt run. i need some help from people who actually have worked with this specific engine. 218ci l6 thank you for any help or tips you can give me.
  20. I saw this paint scheme on the H.A.M.B. Very nice!
  21. Engine Oil

    I thought I'd find this in the tech archives, or under resources, but can only find that it takes 5qt/4.7 litres oil... but not what type. Nice sale on for a 5 litre jug of Quaker State (40% off) 5w30, 10w30 and 5w20... was going to buy a couple of the 5w30 for my Chev Impala, thought I'd grab some for the '47 Dodge as well, since the oil has been in there probably 20-30yrs. Just not sure what kind it takes. Figured when comes time to fire it up and see if it turns over, probably best to have new oil/filter.
  22. Need the weight of '48 B1B flathead 6 engine without transmission. I need to ship it with a moving company and they want the weight to calculate the charges. Does anyone know how much it weighs? thanks, Chris
  23. Hi all, I'm new here to the forum and thought I might as well dive in. I've got a 48 4-door deluxe that my husband and I are hoping to restore. We're trying to figure out what we are working with and hoped that you all could answer a question about the engine number. What we have found stamped on the engine block does not match any other numbers for a typical flathead 6 that I have seen mentioned, so any ideas about what it means would be great. Here's the number as I read it: WN5401237952 It might be possible that the N is actually a second W, not sure. These are pictures of the stamp itself in case anyone want to see. If anyone has any clues, I'd love to hear them. Thanks.
  24. odd oil contamination

    ok, so i am working on this 41' dodge truck in the woods, as i have been for the last couple years, and NOTHING on the truck has moved but the doors for the last 30 years. i pulled the head to see how badly the cylinders were rusted (not very bad) and while i was at it, i dumped some 2-stroke oil in the cylinders in hopes it would help free it up. i checked the engine oil on the dipstick, and it looked like the normal 30-year-old oil looks, kind of brown and dirty. i came back about a month later to check on it and pull the head again to dump in some better lube, and checked the oil to see if any 2-stroke oil made it that far, but there was some milky white fluid towards the bottom that wasn't there before. it would make no sense to be water or antifreeze because neither mix with oil when just sitting and they would have just settled to the bottom. what could it be? the 2-stroke oil was blue, and the crankcase oil was still the same brown sitting on top. keep in mind, the motor was stuck, so nothing could have mixed.
  25. Well, after 7 months, I finally finished the the 230 rebuild project. I did a complete mockup on the crate before putting her back in the truck. More pics to come as the job progresses...