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Found 36 results

  1. I am planning a brake upgrade on a low mileage original business coupe. I have found several options for front disc brake upgrades. I am looking for ideas to upgrade the rear drums either with discs or newer style self adjusting drums. Does anyone know of backing plates and brake assemblies that will work on the original rear end?
  2. Brakes Pulling

    Just wanted to share a situation with the brakes that was discovered today with the hope of preventing someone else from running into the same issue. We have our '48 Town Sedan for a whole 3 weeks now & it has been a great deal of fun. The previous owner had the brake shoes, flex hoses, wheel cylinders & master cylinder replaced not too long ago. He didn't drive it much (about 1000 miles since 1985). It drove fine for me for about the first 2 weeks & then the left front brake started to intermittently pull & sometime lock up altogether. Backing up a few feet would free it up again. This afternoon I finally pulled the left front wheel to check it over. The upper wheel cylinder dust seal was pushed out toward the backing plate. After pulling the plunger out of the wheel cylinder, I found that the dust seal was dislodged, apparently when the wheel cylinder was put in place. The plunger was out of the hole & off to one side between the edge & the hole. When the brakes were applied, the seal would bulge out instead of flexing inward causing the plunger to bind. After putting the plunger back through the hole it belonged in in the center of the seal & reinstalling it, the brakes worked fine again. The moral of the story is, when you install a new wheel cylinder, rotate the dust seal to make sure it is properly centered & seated before buttoning everything back up.
  3. I wanted to share a tool I made today to adjust front drum brakes. Utilizing an extra drum from a 1955??? Dodge truck, I was able to press out the wheel studs and separate the hub from the drum. Then welded a couple nuts to the hub. Drilled a square hole in a piece of steel plate and inserted a ½" carriage bolt and nut to complete the tool. It's so easy to use. 1) lay drum upside down and set the hub tool on top of the drum hub. 2) turn the bolt in or out until the inside edge of the plate is inline with the inside of the drum surface. 3) turn bolt 1/4 turn in and tighten nut to hold plate. 4) place tool on spindle (with bearings and castle nut) 5) adjust lower major adjustment bolts followed by minor adjustments. 6) rotate tool and adjust until desired clearance is achieved 7) remove tool and attach drum, check for drag, and readjust if necessary. Worked for me, hope someone can use this simple tool design to adjust their brakes, enjoy!
  4. Working on a friends 1954 C1-B6 Job rated Pickup. I need wheel cylinders front and back and am having a hard time coming up with the correct part numbers. Any help is appreciated THANKS Randy L Peterson
  5. I have an all original 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe Convertible. What is the correct type brake fluid to use in my car? I'm about to add fluid and bleed the brake system but I want to make sure I'm using the correct type fluid.
  6. Plymouth, it is your time.

    Well the time is now, this 47 Plymouth business coupe SD has stalled for a year, but only for good reason. the original plan was a mild build with a 318 Magnum. But i was able to get my hands on an entire 08 Charger R/T, that's getting turned into a drag runner. Yup that means the 5.7 Hemi, trans, interior, steering column, gauges, seats, and entire electrical system is being installed in the the Plymouth. AND ONLY ABOUT A MONTH TO FINISH!!! Engine: 5.7 Hemi Trans: 5 speed Tiptronic Steering: 89 Chevy caviler Rear end: 01 ford explorer (DSK Brake typ) http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170326_192443944_zps2oqtkxxj.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170325_112957080_zps742lbbze.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=3 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20160709_241347219 1_zpsunomkp06.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=4 Ill try to keep this feed updated as best i can!
  7. New brakes on the P-15

    I swapped out the master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders on my 48 Coupe. Bled them in the correct order, no leaks- when I push the brake pedal while moving I have to slam it to get any stopping and then it jerks to the right. Also when I rev too high it chugs and moves like it's my first time on a clutch. It's a barn find and I'm restoring it for the family- my mom was born in 48 and she passed recently. Anyway any help would be great thanks
  8. Brake shoes

    Can any one cross reference these to numbers that I can work with they are Ferodo brakes shoes,
  9. Brake Adjustment Tool

    Concerning brake shoe adjustment – can anyone tell me where one can obtain a tool like the red one shown here? I’ve not been able to track one down, and I think it’d greatly simplify the adjustment of the brake shoes Thx.
  10. Best Brake components

    1949 B1B. Looking for the best source for brake system components. Bought complete set of wheel cylinder from Andy Bernbaum two years ago and just installed them now. All went fine as far as fit goes but having trouble with large bore of left front wheel cylinder leaking past the piston cup. Any ideas how to remedy this situation? Looked at Vintage Power Wagon site and they have piston cups they sell individually. I'm torn on whether to buy the piston cups or buy a complete wheel cylinder from them. They list a wheel cylinder for the 1/2 ton Power wagon that has the proper size piston bores but for 11" brakes (B1B has 10" brakes on the front) and I'm wondering if it might be interchangeable for the B1B wheel cylinder. Any thoughts? Best regards
  11. I have a rebuild kit for my master cylinder which contains a large rubber washer of which I am not sure where to fit. The manual diagram is unclear as to it's location, so I am guessing it goes between the large nut and the spring, can anyone shed some light as to where it should go please?
  12. 49 parking brake

    Hoping someone can help me out, I have a 49 Wayfarer and would like to rebuild the parking brake. Its a external compressing ring but my problem is how to remove the ring from around the drive shaft hub. Do I need to remove the tail stock and drive shaft or is the support eyelet the adjustment screw goes through removable on its own?
  13. Brake Questions for '55 Plymouth

    Hello all, I'm new here and relatively new to vintage Mopars but I love to learn. I've learned a lot working on our '55 Plymouth Savoy. It has a 230 and 3 speed manual and remains original. It seems in many ways this car is a lot closer to the earlier Plymouths and Dodges than the 57-up Forward Look cars. So that's why I'm here to learn a little more about these cars and continue working on small improvements while we enjoy the Savoy. Its such a transition car, new 50's lines but an old flathead and 6V system. Very fun to work on so far... During a replacement of the master cylinder on the Plymouth, I noticed there were some leaky wheel cylinders on the front of the car. I pulled the drum and noticed a big mess, and cleaned things and replaced the cylinders. I plan to do the rest of the wheel cylinders and shoes since they're probably all shot. Sadly, the brake shoe retainer on the front was missing and appeared to have rusted off years ago. My questions are 1. Does anyone reproduce the shoe retainers clips, or do I need to find another used backing plate? These are the two that are held on with rivets to the backing plate. 2. I have to turn the drums, and they may be beyond their limit. Is there anyone out there with new front or rear drums? (I'm still waiting to hear from Kanter and Bernbaum). Thanks for any advice and I love the forums. Learned a lot already about valve adjustment and other mechanical tips I'll definately apply.
  14. Problem: The car cannot be driven because the brakes lock on after a few presses of the pedal. I've put new rubbers in the drums and master cylinder. I believe the problem is related to the return valve in the master cylinder but after adjustment per the manual the pressure release port is still inoperative although after much adjustment the port opens but not at the time it should. Can anyone help me understand what's happening here and how to fix it? Thanks!
  15. Hello I have just be told that my brake drums are not serviceable (lining to thin, can't turn them). Does anyone know where to find new (or newer) drums. Mine have BUDD-61189 on them. They are 14" drums. Thanks
  16. Hello, Can you anybody help me figure out a rear backing plate situation on my 1946 Dodge Truck that has got me really baffled. I purchased a 1946 Dodge Truck 1/2 ton civilian last year and when I went to rebuild the rear brakes I found out they were from a 1953 Plymouth? I purchased the new wheel cylinders from a vendor that deals with vintage Chrysler products parts and found out the wheel cylinders would not fit the Plymouth backing plates. Ok so then I thought I would just go out to E-bay and buy some backing plates that are the correct ones for my 1946 Dodge truck. I purchased backing plates from two separate people and neither one of them fits the wheel cylinders I bought. The wheel cylinders are either too large for the hole it mounts to or the mounting bolt spacing is off. Also one wheel cylinder's mounting bolt pattern is at the top and the other is at the bottom. What is the size center to center for the mounting bolt holes for a proper 1946 Dodge truck. I guess the next time I go out shopping for some rear backing plates I need to ask somebody what the mounting hole center to center dimensions are as well as the center hole where the wheel cylinder goes through. I have some pictures I have attached. Thank you, Harry
  17. 53 B4B Brake update

    Hello all, New to the forum. I'm about to start restoring a 1953 B4B pickup that used to be mine but is now my dad's. It's been sitting for about 10yrs. I'm starting with the brakes. While I can find most parts except for the drums, I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile (and safer) to just update the front and rear-ends to something newer. Has anyone done that or does anyone know what will fit with minimal modifications? Forgive me if this has already been discussed. Thank you
  18. wheel cylinder rebuild

    A couple of weeks ago I noticed a grabbing and dragging in my rt. front wheel. When I took off the wheel there was lots of brake dust, and evidence of moisture. When I peeled back the rubber dust cap on the wheel cylinders it was obvious that they were seeping. The cylinders are only 8 yrs old. So, I took off the cylinders, took them apart, cleaned them and ran a hone through them. Now I am trying to install the new seals. All of the info I can find simply says to clean and hone the cylinders, install the new parts and bingo! you're all done. What I am having problems with is trying to stretch the new seals onto the pistons. The inner dia. of the new seals looks similar to the inner dia of the old ones, but they are impossibly tight. I lubed them with brake fluid, but of course they are now slippery and even more difficult to work. I am reluctant to use something like pliers to grab and stretch the seals because I do not want to nick or damage the seal or the piston. What is the secret? Help!
  19. Brake Drums

    I have been struggling for some time to fix the brakes on my B3C. Today I got them to the point where I was adjusting the brakes and found that one of my rear drums is not quite perfect. When I spin the drum it always rubs in the same spot on the rear brake shoe even when I have the shoes adjusted all the way in. I have a couple 1/2 ton drums and I slid one on there just for kicks and it fit fine and spun without rubbing. I'm guessing my original drum is out of round. After putting that 1/2 ton drum on there I got to wondering why can't I just use half ton drums and put different wheels on? Is there any reason not to do this? The axles look identical up to the drums and wheels. What am I missing here?
  20. Yet another rear brake thread

    This is on my 1952 Dodge Coronet. I'm having issues with my rear brakes dragging after the pedal has been applied. I have searched & read quite a few threads about dragging rear brakes. After a short drive, the rear wheels will be warm & I can see a little steam coming out the rear wheel well. So far, I have made the minor adjustments according to what I have read here & the recommendations of a local mechanic who works on a lot of old cars. I have replaced the rear rubber brake hose. I have also used a dental pick to clean out the rear hole inside the master cylinder. I am getting a pretty good stream of fluid when I press the pedal. But after I press the pedal, it is quite difficult to turn the rear tires. I worked on it last night. This morning when I went to work on it, I was able to turn the rear drums (tires are off the car & at my brother's house cause he was fixing some leaks they had) But then I applied the pedal a few times. What am I overlooking here? What should be my next step? After I get my rear tires back from my brother, I was thinking maybe it was time to remove the rear drums & see what's going on in there. Thanks
  21. more brake problems

    The p15 has a new gas tank, fuel pump, pcv. system and is running better than ever. Even added a redirad to listen to relicradio. Been driving it everywhere with no problems. Drove it out to stone mountain, had a great time until I noticed the brakes were getting way soft, almost to the floor. I did a minor adjustment(did a major one on fresh shoes and drums about 600 miles ago with Aamco tool) and after that, pedal was firm and high. Drove it another 100 or so, started getting lower again. So two questions: 1. How often do you guys do minor adjustments? 2. Any chance those minor adjusters are slipping?
  22. Rear drums

    I wrote earlier about my brake issue last Friday. I called the brake shop and they have two hours labor into trying to remove that left rear drum with no luck. They are concerned they may have to break the drum to get it off. As if that isn't bad enough the four front wheel cylinders with less than 1500 miles are leaking. I spent $1300 on a brake job in 2011 and at the time the brake shop told me the wheel cylinders I bought were Chinese knockoffs and junk. Clearly they were right and they were right in saying I should have re-sleeved the NOS ones in the car. Any thoughts other than putting heat on that drum to get it off? They have fried it and tried to pound it off. I suppose it is so grooved it won't come over the shoes. Are used drums that hard to come by? I hope my Wayfarer uses the same rear drums as Plymouth's. They don't want to break the drum without my "blessing".
  23. Brake help.

    Hey guys. I'm getting ready to do exploder front disc swap on my 48 p15. I tried doing a search and found that I could keep the original MC, but it seems like all of you running front discs with the original MC have the original rear too. I've got a 9" rear with drums. Not sure what it's out of, it was on there when I bought the car. Assuming something 70s since that's what the motor is. Will that make a big difference? Also about the residual valves, I'm assuming I'll need a 2lb valve for the front and 10lb for the rear? Like I said, I tried searching and got a lot of links to posts that don't exist anymore, so hoping someone can help me out. Thanks!
  24. Brake light issues

    I wonder if anyone can help me with some brake light wiring questions. I finally decided to add an extra pair of brake lights to my stock 41 Plymouth P-12 coupe. It originally only had the single, trunk mounted light, which just doesn' cut it in modern traffic...too many times people don't notice me braking. I added two NOS 6 volt "Guide Lamp" style lights with red lenses on the rear bumper, and connected the wiring to the existing single brake light wire. I installed 6 volt, 20 watt halogen bulbs. It worked fine initially, but eventually blew the single 30 amp fuse in the main lighting circuit. Following some on-line tech tips, I tried re-routing the hot wire from the brake light switch directly to the solonoid on the starter, and installed a 20 amp in-line fuse. This bypasses the main light circuit and keeps the central fuse from blowing, but when I tested the brake lights for several minutes I noticed that the ammeter now jumps way to the positive side and the brake light housings get so hot they literally start to smoke! Is this an issue with the halogen bulbs themselves, or is re routing the hot wire to the solonoid a bad idea? Should I just ditch the halogen bulbs and go back to regular (dim) bulbs, and/or switch the wiring back? Maybe I'm the dim bulb here.....
  25. Hi all, Is there a way to update the brake overhaul technical topic (http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html)? I've been overhauling my brakes, and I had a hard time getting all the fittings to seal up so they don't leak. I think at least one of my problems was failing to use a thin copper washer at the point where the flexible brake hoses screw into the front upper wheel cylinder - both front wheels leaked from there regardless of how much I tightened the hoses. Since I bought new cylinders for the front, I had only disassembled one front upper cylinder and it didn't have the washer. As part of troubleshooting my leaks, I disassembled the other one and found a thin copper washer between the hose and the cylinder. I looked at the parts list and there is an entry: GASKET, Wheel cylinder hose (Copper, 29/64" ID x 13/16" OD, .091 thk)In the tech topic, I'd like to add this to the list of stuff you need to buy and to the instructions for reassembling the parts. Hopefully adding the copper gaskets will stop my last leaky points in the hardware so I can get the bleeding done! T
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