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Found 39 results

  1. Hello, Newbie here, I just acquired a 1952 Dodge B-3. I see a bunch of B-3-Bs, but mine is a B-3-C, which I think is a 3/4 ton. It is a 116 wheelbase, so long bed. It is in fair shape for its age and I intend to drive it. Anyway, I have started to change out brake wheel cylinders and ran into a problem with the right rear drum. The drum had not been tight on the axle, so it spun just a little, but didn't shear the key. However, it cracked the hub which allowed moisture to enter and corrosion, I assume is preventing me from pulling it off with my medium duty gear puller. I have applied PB Blaster and heat. Spending several hours so far and it is not off yet. I need a beefier puller. I'll also need a drum. I found a part number on line for Atlas that I think may be correct. 962-047. Does anyone know various applications of this drum? Also a good lead for obtaining one in good shape....Thanks, Keith
  2. johnsartain

    Brake rod picture.

    Hey guys, I am looking to use a Cherokee master cylinder on a 1950 B2B truck. I will have to fabricate the brake rod, as i don't have one. I was looking for pictures or measurements from someone who had already made the conversion and whatever modifications they had to make. It appears like there may be a possible bit of alignment or binding issues ahead. Of course, if there is someone out there who has one to sell, that will work too.
  3. When installing a different transmission you lose the original parking brake.. Here is what I just finished doing. I installed a chevy 350 motor and 350 automatic a couple years back in my 46 Plymouth and also a 1999 Ford Explorer rear end. To get a parking brake again I took a NEW Explorer right rear cable housing while retaining the original Explorer brake cable setup, coming from the rear brakes.. removed the cable and replaced it with a NEW 1969 Roadrunner cable which hooked up to the original brake handle assy. .. So now I had the Explorer cable housing with the roadrunner inner cable together.. The trailing end came out with plenty to spare right down on the frame where I placed a bell crank. I cut the cable off and clamped it back together using small cable clamps as needed. ...I made the bell crank out of 5/6 by 1 1/4 flat bar and drilled about 3/16 dia holes where I inserted the cable into the holes via about 1/8 slots from the outer edge to the holes... I welded a piece of the same flatbar perpendicular to the first piece and drilled a 3/8 hole thru for the pivit bolt. ..Drilled a 3/8 clearance hole thru the frame near the top for the pivet bolt and used a brass fitting about one inch long I had as a spacer to get the bell crank away . I used the cut off cable ends with the crimped on ends to insert into the bell crank via the slots and cable clamped those to the other cables making sure there was no slack.. works great !!! Dale
  4. I am planning a brake upgrade on a low mileage original business coupe. I have found several options for front disc brake upgrades. I am looking for ideas to upgrade the rear drums either with discs or newer style self adjusting drums. Does anyone know of backing plates and brake assemblies that will work on the original rear end?
  5. So I got a 1948 P15 a couple months ago and realized the brakes weren't doing so well. I replaced all the wheel cyliders, the shoes and a drum. Then I thought the master might not be so hot so I tried to take it off the car to rebuild it....which was much harder than I thought. It probably took me about 8 hours to get it off of there and I've probably spent the same trying to get it back on. The issue is I cannot get the pedals back through the holes in the floor and on the mc at the same time. If I put both pedals on the mc, the tops of the pedal arms hit the top part of the hole. If I put both pedals through the holes first and then try to get them on the mc, the angle is too extreme for them to fit. This must be doable, do I need to remove the floor? I believe whoever restored the car replaced the floor there and riveted it down. He also glued the carpet to it so I can't see underneath unless I rip it up. Perhaps are the holes in the floor cut smaller than the originals? Am I missing something? Can I remove the pegs the pedal arms mount to on the mc? Any help would be appreciated. Matt
  6. fhubler

    Brakes Pulling

    Just wanted to share a situation with the brakes that was discovered today with the hope of preventing someone else from running into the same issue. We have our '48 Town Sedan for a whole 3 weeks now & it has been a great deal of fun. The previous owner had the brake shoes, flex hoses, wheel cylinders & master cylinder replaced not too long ago. He didn't drive it much (about 1000 miles since 1985). It drove fine for me for about the first 2 weeks & then the left front brake started to intermittently pull & sometime lock up altogether. Backing up a few feet would free it up again. This afternoon I finally pulled the left front wheel to check it over. The upper wheel cylinder dust seal was pushed out toward the backing plate. After pulling the plunger out of the wheel cylinder, I found that the dust seal was dislodged, apparently when the wheel cylinder was put in place. The plunger was out of the hole & off to one side between the edge & the hole. When the brakes were applied, the seal would bulge out instead of flexing inward causing the plunger to bind. After putting the plunger back through the hole it belonged in in the center of the seal & reinstalling it, the brakes worked fine again. The moral of the story is, when you install a new wheel cylinder, rotate the dust seal to make sure it is properly centered & seated before buttoning everything back up.
  7. I wanted to share a tool I made today to adjust front drum brakes. Utilizing an extra drum from a 1955??? Dodge truck, I was able to press out the wheel studs and separate the hub from the drum. Then welded a couple nuts to the hub. Drilled a square hole in a piece of steel plate and inserted a ½" carriage bolt and nut to complete the tool. It's so easy to use. 1) lay drum upside down and set the hub tool on top of the drum hub. 2) turn the bolt in or out until the inside edge of the plate is inline with the inside of the drum surface. 3) turn bolt 1/4 turn in and tighten nut to hold plate. 4) place tool on spindle (with bearings and castle nut) 5) adjust lower major adjustment bolts followed by minor adjustments. 6) rotate tool and adjust until desired clearance is achieved 7) remove tool and attach drum, check for drag, and readjust if necessary. Worked for me, hope someone can use this simple tool design to adjust their brakes, enjoy!
  8. Working on a friends 1954 C1-B6 Job rated Pickup. I need wheel cylinders front and back and am having a hard time coming up with the correct part numbers. Any help is appreciated THANKS Randy L Peterson
  9. I have an all original 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe Convertible. What is the correct type brake fluid to use in my car? I'm about to add fluid and bleed the brake system but I want to make sure I'm using the correct type fluid.
  10. P15newbie

    Plymouth, it is your time.

    Well the time is now, this 47 Plymouth business coupe SD has stalled for a year, but only for good reason. the original plan was a mild build with a 318 Magnum. But i was able to get my hands on an entire 08 Charger R/T, that's getting turned into a drag runner. Yup that means the 5.7 Hemi, trans, interior, steering column, gauges, seats, and entire electrical system is being installed in the the Plymouth. AND ONLY ABOUT A MONTH TO FINISH!!! Engine: 5.7 Hemi Trans: 5 speed Tiptronic Steering: 89 Chevy caviler Rear end: 01 ford explorer (DSK Brake typ) http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170326_192443944_zps2oqtkxxj.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170325_112957080_zps742lbbze.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=3 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20160709_241347219 1_zpsunomkp06.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=4 Ill try to keep this feed updated as best i can!
  11. RedRider

    New brakes on the P-15

    I swapped out the master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders on my 48 Coupe. Bled them in the correct order, no leaks- when I push the brake pedal while moving I have to slam it to get any stopping and then it jerks to the right. Also when I rev too high it chugs and moves like it's my first time on a clutch. It's a barn find and I'm restoring it for the family- my mom was born in 48 and she passed recently. Anyway any help would be great thanks
  12. fargo52

    Brake shoes

    Can any one cross reference these to numbers that I can work with they are Ferodo brakes shoes,
  13. DrDoctor

    Brake Adjustment Tool

    Concerning brake shoe adjustment – can anyone tell me where one can obtain a tool like the red one shown here? I’ve not been able to track one down, and I think it’d greatly simplify the adjustment of the brake shoes Thx.
  14. squirebill

    Best Brake components

    1949 B1B. Looking for the best source for brake system components. Bought complete set of wheel cylinder from Andy Bernbaum two years ago and just installed them now. All went fine as far as fit goes but having trouble with large bore of left front wheel cylinder leaking past the piston cup. Any ideas how to remedy this situation? Looked at Vintage Power Wagon site and they have piston cups they sell individually. I'm torn on whether to buy the piston cups or buy a complete wheel cylinder from them. They list a wheel cylinder for the 1/2 ton Power wagon that has the proper size piston bores but for 11" brakes (B1B has 10" brakes on the front) and I'm wondering if it might be interchangeable for the B1B wheel cylinder. Any thoughts? Best regards
  15. I have a rebuild kit for my master cylinder which contains a large rubber washer of which I am not sure where to fit. The manual diagram is unclear as to it's location, so I am guessing it goes between the large nut and the spring, can anyone shed some light as to where it should go please?
  16. kota98

    49 parking brake

    Hoping someone can help me out, I have a 49 Wayfarer and would like to rebuild the parking brake. Its a external compressing ring but my problem is how to remove the ring from around the drive shaft hub. Do I need to remove the tail stock and drive shaft or is the support eyelet the adjustment screw goes through removable on its own?
  17. throwinwrenches

    Brake Questions for '55 Plymouth

    Hello all, I'm new here and relatively new to vintage Mopars but I love to learn. I've learned a lot working on our '55 Plymouth Savoy. It has a 230 and 3 speed manual and remains original. It seems in many ways this car is a lot closer to the earlier Plymouths and Dodges than the 57-up Forward Look cars. So that's why I'm here to learn a little more about these cars and continue working on small improvements while we enjoy the Savoy. Its such a transition car, new 50's lines but an old flathead and 6V system. Very fun to work on so far... During a replacement of the master cylinder on the Plymouth, I noticed there were some leaky wheel cylinders on the front of the car. I pulled the drum and noticed a big mess, and cleaned things and replaced the cylinders. I plan to do the rest of the wheel cylinders and shoes since they're probably all shot. Sadly, the brake shoe retainer on the front was missing and appeared to have rusted off years ago. My questions are 1. Does anyone reproduce the shoe retainers clips, or do I need to find another used backing plate? These are the two that are held on with rivets to the backing plate. 2. I have to turn the drums, and they may be beyond their limit. Is there anyone out there with new front or rear drums? (I'm still waiting to hear from Kanter and Bernbaum). Thanks for any advice and I love the forums. Learned a lot already about valve adjustment and other mechanical tips I'll definately apply.
  18. Problem: The car cannot be driven because the brakes lock on after a few presses of the pedal. I've put new rubbers in the drums and master cylinder. I believe the problem is related to the return valve in the master cylinder but after adjustment per the manual the pressure release port is still inoperative although after much adjustment the port opens but not at the time it should. Can anyone help me understand what's happening here and how to fix it? Thanks!
  19. Hello I have just be told that my brake drums are not serviceable (lining to thin, can't turn them). Does anyone know where to find new (or newer) drums. Mine have BUDD-61189 on them. They are 14" drums. Thanks
  20. Hello, Can you anybody help me figure out a rear backing plate situation on my 1946 Dodge Truck that has got me really baffled. I purchased a 1946 Dodge Truck 1/2 ton civilian last year and when I went to rebuild the rear brakes I found out they were from a 1953 Plymouth? I purchased the new wheel cylinders from a vendor that deals with vintage Chrysler products parts and found out the wheel cylinders would not fit the Plymouth backing plates. Ok so then I thought I would just go out to E-bay and buy some backing plates that are the correct ones for my 1946 Dodge truck. I purchased backing plates from two separate people and neither one of them fits the wheel cylinders I bought. The wheel cylinders are either too large for the hole it mounts to or the mounting bolt spacing is off. Also one wheel cylinder's mounting bolt pattern is at the top and the other is at the bottom. What is the size center to center for the mounting bolt holes for a proper 1946 Dodge truck. I guess the next time I go out shopping for some rear backing plates I need to ask somebody what the mounting hole center to center dimensions are as well as the center hole where the wheel cylinder goes through. I have some pictures I have attached. Thank you, Harry
  21. Patrick

    Brake Drums

    I have been struggling for some time to fix the brakes on my B3C. Today I got them to the point where I was adjusting the brakes and found that one of my rear drums is not quite perfect. When I spin the drum it always rubs in the same spot on the rear brake shoe even when I have the shoes adjusted all the way in. I have a couple 1/2 ton drums and I slid one on there just for kicks and it fit fine and spun without rubbing. I'm guessing my original drum is out of round. After putting that 1/2 ton drum on there I got to wondering why can't I just use half ton drums and put different wheels on? Is there any reason not to do this? The axles look identical up to the drums and wheels. What am I missing here?
  22. rockyj7997

    53 B4B Brake update

    Hello all, New to the forum. I'm about to start restoring a 1953 B4B pickup that used to be mine but is now my dad's. It's been sitting for about 10yrs. I'm starting with the brakes. While I can find most parts except for the drums, I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile (and safer) to just update the front and rear-ends to something newer. Has anyone done that or does anyone know what will fit with minimal modifications? Forgive me if this has already been discussed. Thank you
  23. busycoupe

    wheel cylinder rebuild

    A couple of weeks ago I noticed a grabbing and dragging in my rt. front wheel. When I took off the wheel there was lots of brake dust, and evidence of moisture. When I peeled back the rubber dust cap on the wheel cylinders it was obvious that they were seeping. The cylinders are only 8 yrs old. So, I took off the cylinders, took them apart, cleaned them and ran a hone through them. Now I am trying to install the new seals. All of the info I can find simply says to clean and hone the cylinders, install the new parts and bingo! you're all done. What I am having problems with is trying to stretch the new seals onto the pistons. The inner dia. of the new seals looks similar to the inner dia of the old ones, but they are impossibly tight. I lubed them with brake fluid, but of course they are now slippery and even more difficult to work. I am reluctant to use something like pliers to grab and stretch the seals because I do not want to nick or damage the seal or the piston. What is the secret? Help!
  24. CoronetGuy

    Yet another rear brake thread

    This is on my 1952 Dodge Coronet. I'm having issues with my rear brakes dragging after the pedal has been applied. I have searched & read quite a few threads about dragging rear brakes. After a short drive, the rear wheels will be warm & I can see a little steam coming out the rear wheel well. So far, I have made the minor adjustments according to what I have read here & the recommendations of a local mechanic who works on a lot of old cars. I have replaced the rear rubber brake hose. I have also used a dental pick to clean out the rear hole inside the master cylinder. I am getting a pretty good stream of fluid when I press the pedal. But after I press the pedal, it is quite difficult to turn the rear tires. I worked on it last night. This morning when I went to work on it, I was able to turn the rear drums (tires are off the car & at my brother's house cause he was fixing some leaks they had) But then I applied the pedal a few times. What am I overlooking here? What should be my next step? After I get my rear tires back from my brother, I was thinking maybe it was time to remove the rear drums & see what's going on in there. Thanks
  25. MattWalker

    more brake problems

    The p15 has a new gas tank, fuel pump, pcv. system and is running better than ever. Even added a redirad to listen to relicradio. Been driving it everywhere with no problems. Drove it out to stone mountain, had a great time until I noticed the brakes were getting way soft, almost to the floor. I did a minor adjustment(did a major one on fresh shoes and drums about 600 miles ago with Aamco tool) and after that, pedal was firm and high. Drove it another 100 or so, started getting lower again. So two questions: 1. How often do you guys do minor adjustments? 2. Any chance those minor adjusters are slipping?
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