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Found 17 results

  1. I’ve got a 1950 desoto that I just got home and it does run, but as soon as you connect the negative battery cable to the battery (cable running to solenoid) the starter is spinning, I can crank the motor over this way if I push the lever for the bendix in and out to engage the teeth to the flywheel this is how I got it started, but the only way to prevent the starter from spinning is to pull the cable off of the battery, I have only previously worked on dodges and Plymouth’s which do not have this type of set up. I know these solenoids are pretty much impossible to get, is there any way they can be repaired? I’ve seen a few rebuild kits for them on eBay, but I don’t really even understand how they work, any help would be appreciated thanks.
  2. Hi All, My name is Andrea and I'm new to this forum. I have managed to find myself a Dodge Fargo to restore that has no rust. From my understanding this was an Australian one, I do not know much about it apart from it was in QLD for 3 years and then a guy in Bendigo bought it and had it for another 3 years however no one has had the time to restore it until now. My husband has four Chryslers/Dodges in his collection however this is the first time we are restoring a truck/pick up (at my request!) I am hoping that someone can shed some light on it's history for me. I have attached some photos of the car and the id badges. I would appreciate if anyone can confirm it is a 1950 and that it's an Australian Car and not an import. Also, this car does not have any back tail lights at all. What are the recommendations? Or are there genuine ones that can be sourced? We are also missing the original badges on the sides of the bonnet (the guy in QLD fitted some non-genuine ones that we will be removing). Any ideas? We also need to know what an original interior looks like as we are missing two of the control buttons on the dashboard. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Andrea
  3. It's a 1950 DeSoto sportsman coupe there were only 4600 were made, it makes it the very first year of the official hardtop for Chrysler it has a 237 Flathead six with a fluid drive trans
  4. I was directed here from the aaca forums and figured id start a thread about my project here and see what the pros think. I found an old car on kijiji not too far away from me so I bought it off the old guy for $2500 but he gave me $100 back for family discount lol. For being a 70 year old car the body is in great shape with only rusty floors and a bit where the trunk seal went. The little ive had it running from gas in the carb the engine runs and starts really good so not touching the ignition system but I have ordered a new fuel pump and when it gets here will make sure the lines aren't clogged and all gross. And I got some oil filters so I can change it a few times and drive it over summer. Got other things to fix but need time and money first.
  5. New topic: Water pump removal. Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump. How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature). I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated? I am looking forward to some suggestions. Thanks Guys! On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....
  6. Checking my brakes and with the front wheel off I find a couple bolts partially unscrewed. They don't appear to be holding anything, so why are they there?
  7. Hi again Dodge Gurus/Boffins, I am rebuilding an engine that I believe to have come out of a 1950 Dodge 6 Custom. Engine number reads D34-67930 (although the 6 and the 9 both have straight backs and I have seen stampings on other blocks with a straight backed 5 that looks like a 6 with a hat on) -- Anyhow what I need to know - Is it common or normal to have a five digit engine number ?? most others I have seen have six (after the model Prefix). Any help/advice/comments more than welcome. Thanks again in advance, B.B.
  8. First post on P15-d24....and just signed on to this website. I have a couple of quick questions since I am new to the 1950 era cars. 1st, how could my spitfire's 3 cylinders go bad? I was driving the car and was running great. It started coughing and acting up a little, then within 5 minutes, the car could barely run. Mechanic said engine needs to be replaced. Not sure if mechanic knows much on these old cars. So, how did he car go from running like a top, to 3 cylinders that went bad (horrible compression from what mechanic said)? If I need to have it rebuilt, what would be the general costs to have an engine like that be overhauled? I really like the car and I enjoy driving it, I just want it fixed....please help. Also, I am from Clarksville Michigan, not Clarksville Tennessee.
  9. My first hobby is photography. My son, Jacob, decided at age 14 that he wanted 'an old car' when it came time to drive. I searched around and found this 1950 P20 Special DeLuxe Club Coupe that had been restored two owners ago. The previous owner bought it from the prior's estate. The PO had the bumpers rechromed, found some trim, redid steering tie rods, and a few other things. I've primarily just been doing maintenance, but Jacob is starting a Scarebird Disc Brake install real soon. I don't know why I haven't taken the time to take a photo of the car -- perhaps all the time my wife's kitchen remodel is taking? That project started at the same time we got the Plymouth -- hmm. Anyway, yesterday, 4 July 2017, I finished repairing the parking brake and then asked my youngest daughter to put on a dress and we headed out to take some photos. I started at local college campus but got run off by security. Headed to a park that has an ancient stone gazebo, but being a national holiday, the park was overrun with people. Decided I would head down to this pull off across the river as it has a place without any time telling details. Favorite shot of the youngest daughter with the Plymouth.
  10. Hello all, My name is Jonathan Eme, I am 31 and live in Manteca, CA. I currently work for Lexus of Pleasanton as a Service Consultant, a Hendrick Automotive company. I am married and have twin daughters. I've mainly been building fast Dodge Neon SRT-4's, but have had a passion for anything with wheels, obsessive even. My wife and I recently bought an original(rough shape) 1950 Dodge Coronet(Mopar fan) and I wanted to showcase the build here, as well as learn about the culture surrounding these types of vehicles and possibly make some friends along the way. I look forward to being a lifelong member. Current plans include a 5.7 hemi, ran on megasquirt pro, mustang II front clip(unless i can make this setup work with coil overs), discs all around, 4 link, complete custom interior, and frame-off repair. This will not be traditional in anyway. The body will retian mostly stock lines and wheel/tire style, but I plan to have a 650-700hp tank to cruise around via a built turbocharged engine. I hope to learn a lot about these cars and have fun while building it(it will be a long build, ha). Thank you for looking. Day one after bringing it home and cutting out the front seat. From what I know, the car is 100% original, been sitting 22+ years outside. I filled a 35 gallon trash can with rat feces, it smells horribly. The car is in horrible shape, but I wish I could find more history on it. 1950 Dodge Coronet day 1 by jonathan eme, on Flickr The first day we brought home our 1950 Dodge Coronet. by jonathan eme, on Flickr
  11. From the album: Sundry items

    Photo mock-up of a stretch version for the jeep we got from 48Dodger's brother just before the BBQ.

    © MPrutz 2016

  12. I've looked everywhere (on the forum and search engines) looking for a correct or even close modern match for the metallic gold paint for 1949-50 Dodge Coronet Gyro-Matic fender script. The original is a satin or flat metallic gold with red "Gyro-Matic" inlay - See photo of a NOS example for reference. I can match the red inlay close enough, but the I haven't been able to find a close match for the satin or flat metallic gold paint. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  13. Looking for help on my 1950 panel. Looking for body parts and hopefully pics of one with good floor braces and door jambs. Needs lots. Any and all help appreciated thanks in advance.
  14. Hi everyone Im new to this forum. Im 17 and have been building my dodge truck since I was 12, ive done all the work myself and payed for it. Its been a dream working on it and i now own two of them (parts truck and original) but heres my problem my shop manual has one firing order, that when i turn the engine over knowing theres spark (ive rebuilt carb. new spark plugs, etc shes all new.) it does nothing once in a while like for a half hour of cranking it pops very slightly but wont start. so i test the spark .25 inch gab of spark then i try the firing order at 153624 and all i get is a ton of back firing and popping and stuff it ran once about 2 years ago and i havent changed a thing it didnt run to well and everything is right ive checked it a good 40 times. it fires but like its timing is off and so i adjust it and get nothing.... ive been stalled for 2 years because it wont come to life.. and i need help this truck is perfect all except it doesnt run. i need some help from people who actually have worked with this specific engine. 218ci l6 thank you for any help or tips you can give me.
  15. Does anyone know where I can find spring bushings for my 1949 Plymouth business Coupe? When I am torqued up and driving the car goes good but when I let off the gas it shimmys like the rearend is moving around. I would like to get polyeurathane bushings if I can but rubber would be fine too. any information would be helpful. Thanks
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