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hey anyone have a piece of advice as to where to start? Ive got a 52 cranbrook 3 speed column shift... I can start in neutral or in any gear with clutch down, shift through gears fine but as soon as I let off clutch it makes a grinding clanking sound... not the same sound as if I was grinding gears, I can feel it and it feels like its right at center underfront seat...Ive never really dealt with tranny issues so im not sure if theres anywhere i should start... the linkage all looks ok and the car was fine until this happened other day... was driven three or four days a week ... any help would be appreciated

When I took delivery of my truck 8 months ago, we were horrified about the frame. The frame was so bad that when we saw the e-brake in several places (some in a box, some dangling from the transmission) any thoughts of fixing it immediately went on a nice-to-must-have list. Now that it's time to pay the piper, I'm finding I don't actually have all the pieces. At least I don't think I do. Granted, I did find some springs in the glove box (go figure) that look like they would play a part, but not all the pins and brackets are there. So I've been snooping around for some place to get these other pieces. We did find a (free-ish) donor (on the right). It looks to be earlier and we believe it to be late 40's. It is a top mount, and I have a three-in-the-tree so we thought we should just swap the e-brake parts. The lever mechanism's fulcrum attaches at the bottom on the donor, whereas mine does so from the top. But the parts that attach to that look similar to the book for my 53. And I do have the band that is supposed to fit on mine. Just not all the mounting hardware. I am debating pulling the transmission off my working truck so we can sway parts over on the bench. Just too hard to really know if it would work by eyeball. Do any of you fine gentlemen have an experience in this area? I'd rather find out now it is a foolish errand than when both are apart on the workbench. Thanks Mike

HELLO EVERY BODY I AM FROM MODESTO CAL I been using this website to learn more about Chrysler engine AND TRANSMISSIONS LEARN ABOUT OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSION I BUILT A 1953 CHRYSLER 265 FLAT HEAD I FOUND A 1955 PLYMOUTH STATION WAGON MI QUESTION IS SHOULD THE BELL HOUSING AND THE TRANSMISSION FROM THE WAGON WORK ON THE 265 MOTOR TANKS

Hey guys, while chasing some old Jeep parts and checking on an ebay 5 speed from a `48 that we didn't grab, I had an epiphany about a long convoluted way to get a poor man's OD for running behind the original 230 in my old man's Pilothouse 1 Ton. So bear with me: He wants to keep the stick and the original rear end, he doesn't want to cut the floor more than necessary, and really wants to keep his "deep first" granny gear for crawling up out of his long, steep driveway (I'm not exaggerating either - couple hundred feet and varies between about 10% and 40% in grade). So the truck has a T9 in it that he's fine with other than the 1 Ton having too short a pumpkin but he doesn't want to change the rear. So, after much research, I hit on the fact that the T8/T9 were the forerunner to the T98 and the grandaddies of the still quite common T18/T19. So what if we put in a later truck 4 speed that we can "somewhat cheaply" adapt to a Dana 18 transfer case that will accept a Warn/Saturn PTO overdrive? Options abound for Dodge New Process 435's as well as Dodge & Ford T98/T18/T19. There are lots of options for the Tcase adaptation and the extra weight is really a non issue in a 1 Ton that's already heavy and always running an empty flatbed. It sounds like a winner IF I can fit one of these later transmissions into the bell of the old 230 without going too crazy. So here are my questions: 1. Does anyone have the specs for the input shaft and bell housing back pattern on these? I know on my Fords the bell's rear is pretty much identical up until they went integral and the variables are all input shaft length, diameter, and spline count. What's up with the old 230 Dodge? I can't seem to find any specifications on this kind of stuff on the web (shaft length, spline count, pilot bearing diameter, etc.). 2. Given the above, the next question (or maybe the real question) is how hard is it to adapt the later truck trannies? 3. How big are the differences for the tranny interface specs (drilling a few mount holes isn't scary but finding a correct or adaptable input shaft is the question) between the old Dodge and my Ford trannies? For instance, I've got a 4x4 T19 sitting out in AZ that we could make a great start with... So what say? Does anyone have either the answers or the raw data so I can find my own? I know you guys have got something! Share with me for the old man's sake! ;-)

Well, after a long hiatus, both from the forum and the '47 Plymouth, we are getting things going again. We 'blew up' a clutch a while back and experienced a some problems trying to replace it. Not sure if I brought the first set of problems on to myself . . . In looking at the flywheel, there are two sets of bolt holes: the 'inner' set matches up to my original Borg & Beck 9-1/8" Clutch and Pressure Plate, rebuilt by TN Clutch in 2005. The 'outer' set of holes match up to the 10" 6-Spring Borg & Beck Clutch I had on my shelf. (Clutch Pat. No. 2.277.555-2.448.079; 9-Spring Pressure Plate Pat. No. 1889939-1880590-2104982). I believe these came out of an early 50's auto. With a son in 3-On-The-Tree learning mode, I thought the 10" would be a good drop in. My Clutch alignment tool fit fine, the clutch splines matched up with the trani shaft splines, but was a bit of a tight fit. We tried multiple times to mount the clutch, pressure plate and trani and things sort of hung there. Last week we pulled the 10" clutch/pressure plate out and installed a spare 9-1/8" Borg & Beck that appeared to have some life left in it. Doing some reading, I realized that there was a gasket missing between the bell housing and trani - never had one there that I'm aware of. We made a gasket for that interface , got everything lined up with a little difficulty and installed. Possible problem - with parts lying on the garage floor for over a year, there was a possibility of the propeller shaft getting flipped end for end . . . any problem there? We've pulled it back out and reversed it without any change. Oh, that brings me to the problem I'm having, starting out in 1st or reverse or downshifting 3rd into 2nd, there is a horrible shuddering and clanging; actually shakes the front end. It is almost impossible to get a smooth start. Pulling the floor and watching while moving the car, you can feel the shuddering, but the bouncing of the engine on the mounts I expected was not there. Engine mounts are probably original. Looking at the propeller shaft during movement I can see it 'bouncing' back and forth as it turns. I have a video I'll post shortly that will demonstrate that better than my writing. Maybe this movement is normal, as I've never looked at the propeller shaft during start up . . . Any suggestions on locating the source of the vibration? I know this is hard when you can't put hands, eyes and ears on the car! John

I know this topic is discussed frequently, but I really don't seem to be finding the information I am looking for. I am wondering what "simple" options there are for transmission swaps for my 50 Dodge Coronet 230 flat head. I know there is the S-10 T5 option, and so far I am leaning in that direction. What I would like to find out is if there are other transmissions that will work as as an easy swap. I'm not too concerned about power loss if there is a viable automatic that is essentially bolt in- Cant be worse the the gyro-matic! I am keeping the internal motor stock, but thinking about a dual carb and split exhaust. I want to leave it 6volt as well. Any help is greatly appreciated!

3 spped manual trans when unable to get it into 1st and rev - check the screw on the side, under the top shift lever. It's a slotted screw head. after removal check the length of the shoulder past the end of the threads - should be about 1/4" if it's less - it's sheared off. If the pin shoulder is sheared, it allows the vertical shaft to move up, instead of the internal lever, so it can't engage the 1st/rev rake shaft. Use a magnet to find the sheared end (in the lube). Can't help in finding a new screw - I had one in another old tranny.

Hi everyone, I'm a new guy on the old Dodges, so bear with me. Here' s the situation: My 74 year old father is looking to gain some speed/gear ratio on his old 48/49 1 Ton flatbed dually with the original (as near was we can tell) flathead six. He's a retired truck driver so the 4 speed crash box (Warner T9?) is fine other than he's out of gear & rpm at 45 or 50 mph. We live in SoCal and he wants to be able to drive to shows, etc. so there's a real need for another 10 mph or so. Since it's the 1 Ton and he wants to keep up original appearances, there's no real expectation of a taller rear being available - or am I wrong? He also wants to keep the flathead and a hydraulic clutch is not going to happen. What are the options from the experts? Are taller rear dif. ratios available for the 1 Ton rear axle? Are there sources for the old style "2 speed rear axles" still? I see from the factory literature that there were Clark 5 speeds avaliable that may have had OD in top gear. Can they be found or are they like hen's teeth now? A brownie box would be fine too but I'm aware of the lack of parts from my adventures with my oldish 60's Fords. How different is the flathead 6 trans mount from the later transmissions? Will anything later interface with the factory bell without adapters galore? I have a new level of appreciation for you Pilot House guys... After all the documentation I can find and have for my `67 Fords and `65 Jeep CJ5, this old truck is like sifting through a haystack looking for needles. Anyway, go easy on the assumptions about specific brand detail knowledge please. I've got the mechanical concepts and background down but I don't know jack for flathead era Dodges but I'm willing to learn to help my old man out. So what say you? Ideas? Options? Are am I just whistling dixie and dad's going to have to get used to being honked at on the fwy (again)? Thanks in advance!

like the title says, i own a 1954 Belvedere and am having a hell of a time with the stock 3 spd. i am curious if summit racing universal 3 spd floor mount shifter will work with my transmission to by pass the column shifter. does anyone have any info on this? any help will be appreciated, thanks again, andy.

I'm cleaning up the car (obviously not done with all the crud still in the pic) and wanted to determine as much as I can on the transmission. The gearshift housing has 853855-63 with PF I think above and I don't know what the symbol below is. On the case near the extension it looks like the numbers are KP15C 220 48. There is another number on the extension 853880-32.

Hi Everyone, long time no post! I have a 1951 DeSoto Custom (S15) with a 250.5 L6 and a two range Fluid drive transmission. Currently the issue I'm having is that when driving the car, when its cold there are no problems, but as it heats up I start to notice a squeaking coming out of what sounds to be the transmission. This only happens when I am driving along after the car has shifted out of underdrive and I am not accelerating any more. I notice a squeaking that is speed dependent (faster if I'm driving faster) when I let off the gas to coast along. Any thoughts on what this might be?

Hello all, I have a '50 B2B, Yesterday I found out I could not get into first gear or reverse. For some unknown reason the Linkage/Pivot point spot welded to the steering column was torn off. I tried to make a clamp to hold it in place or at least in the same area. The clamp did not hold very well or stop the linkage from moving around. I opened the floor transmission panel to see if I could engage the linkage to "force" the transmission into reverse.With much work and jiggling I was able to get the truck to back up, I have been able to take off in second gear but I am afraid of burning out the clutch out and causing a new headache. I have a stock flat head six engine, and was driving it daily. I was not happy with the performance/speed on the freeway or the gas mileage, so a different rear end and transmission maybe in the future anyway. I love/hate driving the truck and the looks I get on the road , I am not looking to get rid, junk of sale the truck. So I guess my questions to the group are : 1. Is there an adapter to convert the column shift to a floor shifter ? 2. Is there straight across swap automatic transmission I can do and what is it ? 3. Is it better to replace the steering column (if I can find one) and run it 4. Anybody know of a good transmission shop in So Cal ( LA area) ? 5. Anybody ever have this happen to them and if so, what did they do? 6. Is there a 4 speed transmission that will bolt up to my engine (stock) without much hassle ? Thanks all in advance, this forum has been a great wealth of information and advice. I have gotten so much help in reviewing all the posts.

I have replaced the 4-speed in my 52 B3B with a 3-speed. Does anyone know if the drive shafts are the same length? I put the 4-speed shaft in but it seemed to strech the shaft quite a bit. It seems to work. I would appreciate any help. Thanks Larry

I am a novice trying to reinstall the 4 speed transmission in my 1952 B-C-3. I followed the directions in the manual when removing the transmission and slid it out on guide pins placed in the upper bolt holes. Now when I try and slide it back in it is getting hung up. It appears to me that the throw out bearing is the issue. I can't seem to get it lined up up correctly. I tried putting the bearing directly on the transmission shaft but then I can't get it past the clutch fork. I then tried to remove the clutch fork but can't seem to get it out of the housing with the clutch installed. Can someone please advise what the correct procedure for installing the transmission? The book just says "reverse removal procedure". Thank you!!!

Hi all, I have a 1949 P-18 - with STD 3 speed. I bought the car last year and have never been able to shift into 3rd at speed. It seems to shift smoothly into all gears with engine off. While at speed I can not shift it into 3rd - grinds. Then I can not shift back into 2nd - grinds - until I have slowed down quite a bit. What is the most likely problem and fix? I would appeciate any assistance. The tranny is out of the car at this time. I have an old Plymouth service manual but it is not very specific for troubleshooting. Sorry, if this has been covered here in the past, but I searched and couldn't find appropriate info.