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  1. Hello all, I'm new here and relatively new to vintage Mopars but I love to learn. I've learned a lot working on our '55 Plymouth Savoy. It has a 230 and 3 speed manual and remains original. It seems in many ways this car is a lot closer to the earlier Plymouths and Dodges than the 57-up Forward Look cars. So that's why I'm here to learn a little more about these cars and continue working on small improvements while we enjoy the Savoy. Its such a transition car, new 50's lines but an old flathead and 6V system. Very fun to work on so far... During a replacement of the master cylinder on the Plymouth, I noticed there were some leaky wheel cylinders on the front of the car. I pulled the drum and noticed a big mess, and cleaned things and replaced the cylinders. I plan to do the rest of the wheel cylinders and shoes since they're probably all shot. Sadly, the brake shoe retainer on the front was missing and appeared to have rusted off years ago. My questions are 1. Does anyone reproduce the shoe retainers clips, or do I need to find another used backing plate? These are the two that are held on with rivets to the backing plate. 2. I have to turn the drums, and they may be beyond their limit. Is there anyone out there with new front or rear drums? (I'm still waiting to hear from Kanter and Bernbaum). Thanks for any advice and I love the forums. Learned a lot already about valve adjustment and other mechanical tips I'll definately apply.
  2. Cebreros

    1951 Cranbrook

    My Old Plymouth.
  3. Hi guys, New to the site I don't know anything about flat heads at all. But picked up this barnfind 34 plymouth Pe. See that it has a flathead just wondering what type of number am I looking for on the motor to help identify it better? Also, the guy took off the carb and filter. Just so reference these filters are the canister types right? Is there any crossover compatibility with new ones or should I try to find NOS? My carb is a Bal and Ball. I guess im just looking and asking because I really want to get this running. It has all service record until 1961, then Im assuming it was parked. It even has a tag on the radiator hose from 61 I guess showing it was bought and replaced. And on the inner pillar driver side there are a few stickers of maintenance done. Oil looks good obviously going to change it before trying to turn her over. Plus wires and anything or any other info anyone can point me in the right direction. I would be very grateful.
  4. Hi, My Name is Abe, I found this forum though searching for info on early Plymouths also through the other forums. I know my project doesn't fall under the late 38's P series, but there is a lot of great info here that applies to Tube axle Plymouths. Here is the car Im working on, it really for my wife. My first full 30's build. Im learning a lot already. Please keep posting all the great info here it helps everyone. BTW, Im a Matchbox designer, I make little metal cars. I may get a Plymouth or Dodge in my line next year, we'll see. Here is the project car 1933 Plymouth PC Sedan. Ad said "needs work" I finally found some time to do so.. here is one of last Hot Wheels cars and a car I would drive any day of the week, anywhere.
  5. Problem: The car cannot be driven because the brakes lock on after a few presses of the pedal. I've put new rubbers in the drums and master cylinder. I believe the problem is related to the return valve in the master cylinder but after adjustment per the manual the pressure release port is still inoperative although after much adjustment the port opens but not at the time it should. Can anyone help me understand what's happening here and how to fix it? Thanks!
  6. First off, forgive me that I'm new to all this. I'm learning as I go. Had a bad clutch chatter in my '47 Plymouth and am replacing the rear main seals and clutch. I ordered a new clutch disc from Bernbaum but the new one has a deeper offset than my original and doesn't seat properly in the pressure plate. I looked on the forums and for other online images and haven't found another that looks similiar to the one that I have. I am wondering if I just need to order another pressure plate or find a different clutch. The clutch that came out is a 9 1/4. Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is any sort of plug or cap that is supposed to go on the transmission where it bolts up. I got a new seal and it has a hole around the opening and it seems to me like there should be, but again, I have zero experience and the manual doesn't show anything. Thanks! Dan
  7. Well I have found myself between a rock and a hard place. I came across a deal that I may not want to pass up but for parts I don't really need for my 48. A gentlemen near me is selling is 48 Plymouth business coupe for an amount that I cant pass up. It doesn't have engine/trans/rear-end or most of the interior. However it does come with an extra set of doors, extra dash, and extra hood. He had an extra front clip complete with chrome that I have already purchased from him and now I am debating on going back for the rest. He plans to scrap it all in 6 months or so if it doesn't sell. The 48 looks to be someones hot rod from the 80s. The taillights have been replaced with some small round ones and they also filled in the grill. I know how hard it is to find these parts and how much harder it is to find them at a reasonable price. Do you all think its worth it to go buy everything this guy has? Id sell both sets of doors, both hoods, the rear fenders, both dash's, and whatever else someone needed. I would use the body to cut patch panels to fix some of the rust on my car and could do that for others if they needed it. I know a lot of you hate me for saying that but that's the only way I can justify the cost and effort to go get the rest. Heck another option is I would throw on the front clip I bought ( minus most of the chrome) pick the best doors, best hood, and sell someone a 48 Business coupe. So whats the opinions? Buy the rest? Forget about it?
  8. Can anyone recommend an exterior visor for a 1940 plymouth P10 Sedan?? Thank you tydavis73@gmail.com (951) 543-2376
  9. Bought a 51 Plymouth Cambridge with a good running 218 flathead a few months ago... I'm not a master mechanic, am using this project to learn. Seems one of the best ways to get a mild hp boost is to up the exhaust, so I picked up headers from Tom Langdon and a couple of glasspacks mufflers. I will eventually swap the intake manifold & add a second carb, but don't have the cash yet. So my question... what is the device that sits above the central portion of the headers and is connected to the carb via linkage (see attached photo)? I'm guessing it's some kind of heat riser .... can it be removed during header swap without any mechanical repercussions? Many thanks for any help - I know I'm a novice, that's why I'm asking "stupid questions" here before I tinker with this beauty.
  10. Hello All, I am in need of some advice. I'm currently attempting to replace the clutch in my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe. I have disconnected the drive shaft and transmission, but can't figure out the best way to access the clutch and flywheel. My shop manual doesn't get into very much detail here at all, and I'm stumped. The bell housing seems to bolt on top of a frame crossmember. So, what is the best next step in removing this? Is there an easiest way to remove the clutch linkages from the bell housing? (That is, should I just disconnect them from the clutch petal, or from the bell housing?) Does the clutch plate put pressure on the bell housing (that is, will it spring off when I take out the bolts)? Should I remove the flywheel cover? Is the engine supported directly by this bell housing (since it's bolted to the frame)? If so, how should I support the engine while making this repair? Many Thanks in Advance, and Best, J.P.G.
  11. I'm wondering if somebody out there has already done the legwork to determine an accurate color cross reference for the color Tamiami Green on the 1955 Plymouth color chart. I've checked with DuPont and PPG and they did not provide a modern equivalent, even after checking with their respective color libraries. I'm aware of TCP Global and their site autocolorlibrary.com Not certain that they have any better reference than my local PPG which usually does a pretty good job. I'm surprised that this color stumped my local jobbers. Thanks in advance, Tim
  12. Hello All, In my never-ending pursuit to make my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe as original as possible, I am looking for information on what came with the car new. Specifically, What did the 1946 owners manuals and service books look like? Was there a tool kit that came with the car? Any accessories (ice scrapers, extra parts, pamphlets, etc)? Was there a difference in what a Deluxe and Special Deluxe came with? Was there a difference between 46, 47, and 48? Thanks in advance, and happy motoring, J.P.G.
  13. I've been working to get the '40 woodie on the road, and the glass from the B pillar back slides in the fuzzy tracks and uses spring-loaded pins to lock them in place. There are 4 pin knobs and 8 slide handles needed for each wagon, and they are made out of the same ivory colored plastic that the other dash knobs are. Needless to say,most are missing and none are usable. I think I found a guy that can cast them for me- he restores old radios and makes replacement radio knobs. He said the price is dependent on quantity (of course) and wanted to know approximately how many sets? I thought I'd ping you all to gauge interest, and if they are as good as his radio knobs look, we might also want to give him a few dash knobs with lettering to see what he can come up with. So, assuming the price isn't too crazy, how many folks are interested?
  14. Please forgive my ignorance.... I'm learning as I go. Replaced the clutch and throw-out bearing in my '47 Plymouth. Put the linkage back together (at least I thought I did) and now the clutch pedal practically falls down. With the last inch or so of movement, it will engage the clutch. I took of the rod going to the fork and the small return spring and that was it. The pressure plate is the same, I didn't take off the pivot, the clutch arm and over center spring weren't touched. Nothing regarding the adjustment should be different and I've taken the clutch pan back off twice to check that my fork is attached to the bearing and that the pivot is in place. I have no pride left and I'm hoping it's something simple that I'm overlooking or doing wrong.
  15. Hello everyone, I am new to this forum as I have never owned a Plymouth, but I recently find myself in a position in which I soon may. I am a mechanic / collision tech by trade, so I know what I am getting in to. A little background regarding the issue: My father-in-law wants to get rid of his 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-Door. He wants my wife to purchase the vehicle as she has a sentimental attachment to it. She wants it, but we have no idea what it is worth and he wants her to to come up with a fair market price. There is limited information online regarding the sale prices of these vehicles, so I am asking all the experts to put a valuation on the vehicle. The vehicle: Complete and original - except paint which is not good. Body is in good shape - Minimal damage and/or rust. It has been parked in an old garage for the last 10-15 years. It ran when parked, but hasn't since. Not to say that it wouldn't with fresh fluids and some work. The interior is pretty well destroyed. One could assume that it would cost $1000 to get it running and driving safely. i.e, new brakes, wheel cylinders, brake lines, fluids, fuel pump, carb rebuild, plugs, etc. I appreciate any help that readers could provide. Thanks
  16. 47' Plymouth Special Deluxe Will be a lot of trouble mounting a Ford 9" rear end? The leaf spring mount is welded to the axle. If I cut the leaf spring bracket off the existing axle. Measure, etc and attach it to the new one will i run into any issues? ALSO, the shocks on the rear axle are mounted at a 45 degree angle. Why is that? Is that accomplishing anything? I know there are a lot of things I'd have to tweak. But looking for an overall guess on it? Another question. I have a custom 15 gallon universal gas tank installed. There is a hose and what appears to be a vent that attaches above the axle to the underside of the body. Every time I fill it up all the way it leaks like nothing I ain't ever seen before. If i fill it up just about halfway I have no issues. Ideas?
  17. Help! I've been searching high and low for information on this and was directed to this forum site by Gods Grace I hope someone can help! I have a 47' Plymouth Special Deluxe. I've restored pretty much everything on it. I'll post some pictures later if you are curious! Anyways I am looking for a diagram, or video that shows me how to remove, repair and install the windows, Pictures, walk-throughs, anything that will help me! I would really appreciate it!
  18. From the album: Magazine Ads

    A couple of my favorite adverts, framed them in barn wood to take to shows The tan car ad is 1946, the red I believe to be from 48
  19. From the album: 48 p15

    April 2015 Caffeine & Gasoline @ Griot's Garage flagship Store Tacoma WA

    © https://www.flickr.com/photos/griots/16478999813/in/album-72157649541071404

  20. From the album: 48 p15

    April 2015 Caffeine & Gasoline @ Griot's Garage flagship Store Tacoma WA

    © https://www.flickr.com/photos/griots/17097628512/in/set-72157649541071404

  21. I am interested to find out what motor oil you guys are putting in your Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth Flathead P15-D24 engine and why. What's your favorite Brand of motor oil for your old Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Flathead 6 motor and why? Brand: SAE: Why: Thanks, LFT
  22. borge22

    Newbie

    Hi Guys and Gals, I have just joined your community, I'm from New Zealand and have a '35 Plymouth DeLuxe Coupe in great original condition. Best Regards Steve
  23. I have been making good progress on the P10 wagon since summer. As Don indicated, it doesn't rain anymore here in Fresno, so we can work on our cars 24hrs/day, 12 months /year. Here are a few progress pics. I put 10 coats of varnish on it last summer, and then fit the wood to the chassis this spring. Most of the metal pieces inside the car are powdercoated -there is a shop in Clovis - Kip's Powder Coating) that not only does great work, but is very reasonable too. I find myself powder coating parts that I hadn't thought of powder coating, like the piano hinges for the doors and tailgate, just because they make it so easy! I installed a split intake and exhaust manifold from George Asche, with two rebuilt Carters and had a local radiator shop make up a split exhaust that blends back into the single exhaust pipe. These are old time muffler guys and assured me that I didn't need dual exhausts, because of the size of the single pipe and the output of the 218 that I'm using. Good thing, because the placement of the gas tank, off to the drivers side, makes it pretty tough to route a second exhaust there. I also installed a George Asche OD that I bought from him 10 years ago and with the dual carbs and split exhaust, I can easily get it up to 65mph. Not sure how fast I want to go in a car made out of toothpicks, but it's nice to know that I will be able to keep up with traffic anyway. Next challenge : the seats.
  24. Hello All, I'm in dire need of some help, I've lost the only key I had for the original trunk lock on my 1946 P15 coupe, and it's locked. I need it open so I can get to the tool box and spare tire before a tour planned for this weekend. I've already had a locksmith look at it to try and impression the lock, and he says its too worn to make a key from it. I'm not sure what to do, does anyone have a similar experience and solution? Is there a way to open this thing from inside? That is, if I removed the back seat and got at it from inside the car, could I open it? I' willing to try anything short of drilling out the lock. Thanks very much in advance, and best wishes.
  25. Hello All, Many thanks again for all of your help on getting my trunk unlocked in time for last weekend. I found a locksmith to pick it open for me. But now, I have another question: When I lost the keys to the ignition and trunk, I had no spare set. So, unable to find a way to have a new key made for the original lock, I bought a new ignition switch and key set and installed it. It works, but to my surprise, the switch and lock cylinder that came, supposedly the correct type for my 1946 Plymouth, did not match the one that was in the car. The original was made by Alemite, and the key was a tiny Star type HFD7, and no provision I could find to remove the lock cylinder. The new one came with a much larger key, and a totally different-looking cylinder. It also has a pin on the top of the switch to remove the cylinder with. This solved a different question I'd had for a while, I came across an original Plymouth P15 blank with the crest pressed on the key. It was too big to fit the old lock, but glides right into the new ignition. A correct fit. So, which is it? I have no reason to believe the old lock is not original to the car, but every other resource points to the new lock as being the correct type. The only explanation I can think of is that it is a left-over 1942 part that was installed only on the early 1946 models. Is the lock original, or not? If so, why is it different? Thanks very much in advance, and best regards.
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