Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'p15'.
-
I've got a '48 P15 Business Coupe and it's 2 hours away on my dad's farm in a shed. I know that one of the back wheel cylinders is leaking and it has no brakes at all. However, I believe it will start and run well enough to get it on a trailer. The issue is obvious, I need it to be able to stop the car until I can get it to my garage to replace the entire brake system. It's not in a location where you can do actual repairs. So, my question is, what is the best way to get any brakes at all to pull it on and off a trailer? One thought I had was perhaps I disconnect the line in the master cylinder going to the back brakes and put in a (I assume) 3/16th brass or steel plug. I'm thinking that would give me front brakes if I did that and give me the ability to stop the car. Again, I plan on replacing everything with new parts and never driving it on the road until I do. I'm not a mechanic, and one big goal of this is to learn all I can on this particular car so if this idea makes no sense, please let me know my best options.
-
From the album: Dan's Aussie p15
Adelaide, Australia, assembled, owned and driven...low and slow! -
From the album: Dan's Aussie p15
Adelaide, Australia, assembled, owned and driven...low and slow! -
From the album: Dan's Aussie p15
Adelaide, Australia, assembled, owned and driven...low and slow! -
From the album: Dan's Aussie p15
Adelaide, Australia, assembled, owned and driven...low and slow! -
From the album: Dan's Aussie p15
Adelaide, Australia, assembled, owned and driven...low and slow! -
From the album: Dan's Aussie p15
Adelaide, Australia, assembled, owned and driven...low and slow! -
Some of you know that sometime back I purchased a new fuel tank from Tanks Inc. I figured that I was just going to use the original straps, instead of the aluminum ones that came with it because they were in good shape, so I thought. The original ones worked, but the only problem is that they barely tightened into the long bolt head that is used to attach and tighten the tank to the bottom of the trunk. As seen in this photo, this is as far as I could get it to tighten with the new tank. Though the tank felt tightly snug, I didn't like the idea of the bolt end not being able to go in all the way. When I did the other side, the bolt snapped from where it was riveted to the strap. I must have tried to tighten it too tight. Of course, this tank is a bit taller than the original. This bummed me out because I really wanted to stay with the originals because of the way they attached behind the fuel tank to the body of the car, as if they locked in place. So I tried to see what I could do with the new ones that were sent with the tank, but I didn't like the fact that they were aluminum, and not steel. I tried to get those to work, but ended up messing them up. So I thought on how I could still salvage the old ones and make them stronger, as well, based on the design of the new straps. So here is what I came up with... I figured that I had to extend the ends of the straps that the bolt ends were riveted to by a few inches so that it would fit around the tank just right. Since I don't have my own machine shop to fabricate things, I decided to go to Lowe's and look around for something that might work. So I found this below. Not sure what it's called, but I found it in the construction section of the store. I took the original and the new strap with me to see if it would be long enough to work as an extension, and it did. So I got that, new bolts, nuts and lock washers, as well as new bolts to connect it to the original strap. Then, I drilled out the old rivets that were holding the bolt end piece to the strap. After that, I took the ends of the original pieces and pounded them straighter. Then, I took the new angled pieces and drilled the bottom hole a little bigger, then one above it to match, according to how the holes were on the strap. Then, took the other side and drilled a 3/8" hole. Then, I cut the end off where the bigger hole was drilled and removed the burrs and sharp edges with a flat file. Then, I bolted the new piece to the old strap. Later today, I will clean it up, paint it black and put rubber back on the inside of it, then hook install the tank. Not the prettiest thing, but I'm sure it will do the job. I will get back and let you know how the installation goes.
-
After a busy couple of weeks, I'm back to Special D. Despite my earlier panic and confusion about the engine, you guys hit it on the head with stuck valves. I've finally got my intake and exhaust headers off and am trying to get the valves freed up. I was lucky with almost all of the bolts. One bolt had threads screwed up with the nut coming off (galled?) and I'm going to have to replace that. Most had 'dry rust' on the threads and squeaked coming out, but nothing totally frozen. Bolt on the tail end of the exhaust header was apparently broken in the past and there was just one bolt in place. Interesting. There were also only three bolts in the heat riser, as apparently one was broken off in there. I'll have to see if I can Easy Out those. Several questions . . . The valve access panel inside the right fender well . . . Is this thing supposed to slide out relatively easily? It seems to have a hole in the upper/forward corner of the panel, that a bolt goes through. The back side of the bolt WOULD be accessible, in a car without a heater. Without a slot there, I have not been able to get it out. So it's 'rolled' forward, toward the bumper. The stuck valves . . . Is it common/expected that it's the INTAKE valves that are the ones that are stuck? Here's #6, #5, & #4 And here's #3, #2 & #1 I'm spraying "PB Penetrating Catalyst" on the the upper end of the valves/guides in hope of freeing them. Is there any tapping or prying I can do on the lower end of the valve stems? I squirted Marvel Mystery Oil in the plug holes last Saturday and ran it through several revolutions; most of that seems to have ended up in the intake header. Header bolts . . . How do you back one of those out of the block to replace it? Vice grips and crank on it? Heat riser is frozen and I'm trying to work on that while I'm at it. More penetrating oil. I've been alternating PB, Marvel and some scraping and tapping. Spring is good. Little 'bell shaped' washer that keeps it from rotating on the shaft is a goner. Have to see what I can fabricate. Thanks again for the help. Cheers! John
- 14 replies
-
- 218
- heat riser
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I am putting a radiator and the radiator U bracket back in my P15 Plymouth. There was a rectangular nut plate with two long slots in it that goes under U bracket somewhere. Does it go between the U bracket and the frame, or does it go with the two large nuts and washers inside the frame in the hole underneath?
-
Anyone have some information on converting my 6V positive ground to a 12V positive ground? It would just make it easier to jump when the occasion arises. Thanks!