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  1. Hello All, In my never-ending pursuit to make my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe as original as possible, I am looking for information on what came with the car new. Specifically, What did the 1946 owners manuals and service books look like? Was there a tool kit that came with the car? Any accessories (ice scrapers, extra parts, pamphlets, etc)? Was there a difference in what a Deluxe and Special Deluxe came with? Was there a difference between 46, 47, and 48? Thanks in advance, and happy motoring, J.P.G.
  2. Please forgive my ignorance.... I'm learning as I go. Replaced the clutch and throw-out bearing in my '47 Plymouth. Put the linkage back together (at least I thought I did) and now the clutch pedal practically falls down. With the last inch or so of movement, it will engage the clutch. I took of the rod going to the fork and the small return spring and that was it. The pressure plate is the same, I didn't take off the pivot, the clutch arm and over center spring weren't touched. Nothing regarding the adjustment should be different and I've taken the clutch pan back off twice to check that my fork is attached to the bearing and that the pivot is in place. I have no pride left and I'm hoping it's something simple that I'm overlooking or doing wrong.
  3. Hello All, I am in need of some advice. I'm currently attempting to replace the clutch in my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe. I have disconnected the drive shaft and transmission, but can't figure out the best way to access the clutch and flywheel. My shop manual doesn't get into very much detail here at all, and I'm stumped. The bell housing seems to bolt on top of a frame crossmember. So, what is the best next step in removing this? Is there an easiest way to remove the clutch linkages from the bell housing? (That is, should I just disconnect them from the clutch petal, or from the bell housing?) Does the clutch plate put pressure on the bell housing (that is, will it spring off when I take out the bolts)? Should I remove the flywheel cover? Is the engine supported directly by this bell housing (since it's bolted to the frame)? If so, how should I support the engine while making this repair? Many Thanks in Advance, and Best, J.P.G.
  4. First off, forgive me that I'm new to all this. I'm learning as I go. Had a bad clutch chatter in my '47 Plymouth and am replacing the rear main seals and clutch. I ordered a new clutch disc from Bernbaum but the new one has a deeper offset than my original and doesn't seat properly in the pressure plate. I looked on the forums and for other online images and haven't found another that looks similiar to the one that I have. I am wondering if I just need to order another pressure plate or find a different clutch. The clutch that came out is a 9 1/4. Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is any sort of plug or cap that is supposed to go on the transmission where it bolts up. I got a new seal and it has a hole around the opening and it seems to me like there should be, but again, I have zero experience and the manual doesn't show anything. Thanks! Dan
  5. I am a new owner of a 1947 Plymouth P15 businessman's Coupe. I have done minor repairs on it but been having an issue with grinding going into 1st, 2nd, sometimes 3rd, and reverse. First off, I did adjust the clutch turnbuckle to get 1" of free play. I also adjusted the screw that is connected to the qassembly and goes into the clutch to engage. I had it set so I would barely press the clutch and it would disengage. I then push the pedal all the way to the floor and still get grinding. If the transmission strats to disengage when I barely press the clutch, surely it should be completely engaged as I press it to the floor. But still get grinding. Second, I adjusted the screw outside of the clutch so that the clutch would need to be almost pressed to the floor before it would didengage the trans. And still get grinding. I also changed the transmission oil to the recommended sae80 gear grease. Not sure what was in there before, but regardless I had the grinding before the change and after. I really love this vehicle and I drive it as often as I can, enven with the grinding. I did notice If I slowwwwwwwwly put it into a gear with clutch pressed for several seconds, SOMETIMES it will not grind. I adjusted the link and the clutch screw millions of times and got nowhere. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Chad!
  6. From the album: Magazine Ads

    A couple of my favorite adverts, framed them in barn wood to take to shows The tan car ad is 1946, the red I believe to be from 48
  7. Just wondering if anyone has come across any universal or aftermarket ignition switches that would fit in place of where the original switch once fit. Tired of my universal one just hanging, and trying to avoid buying a NOS one on Ebay. Thanks!
  8. So, first post here (wooooo) - what I wanted to try asking is if anyone here knows if there's a size difference in the clocks that ended up in P11/12's and the P15's? In pictures, they look about the same size, but I have heard people say that they are not compatible and one won't fit the other. Once all said and done I hope to also add a Philco 802 radio, P12 center dash and clock to my P11. (wish me luck....)
  9. Hello All, Many thanks again for all of your help on getting my trunk unlocked in time for last weekend. I found a locksmith to pick it open for me. But now, I have another question: When I lost the keys to the ignition and trunk, I had no spare set. So, unable to find a way to have a new key made for the original lock, I bought a new ignition switch and key set and installed it. It works, but to my surprise, the switch and lock cylinder that came, supposedly the correct type for my 1946 Plymouth, did not match the one that was in the car. The original was made by Alemite, and the key was a tiny Star type HFD7, and no provision I could find to remove the lock cylinder. The new one came with a much larger key, and a totally different-looking cylinder. It also has a pin on the top of the switch to remove the cylinder with. This solved a different question I'd had for a while, I came across an original Plymouth P15 blank with the crest pressed on the key. It was too big to fit the old lock, but glides right into the new ignition. A correct fit. So, which is it? I have no reason to believe the old lock is not original to the car, but every other resource points to the new lock as being the correct type. The only explanation I can think of is that it is a left-over 1942 part that was installed only on the early 1946 models. Is the lock original, or not? If so, why is it different? Thanks very much in advance, and best regards.
  10. Hello All, I'm in dire need of some help, I've lost the only key I had for the original trunk lock on my 1946 P15 coupe, and it's locked. I need it open so I can get to the tool box and spare tire before a tour planned for this weekend. I've already had a locksmith look at it to try and impression the lock, and he says its too worn to make a key from it. I'm not sure what to do, does anyone have a similar experience and solution? Is there a way to open this thing from inside? That is, if I removed the back seat and got at it from inside the car, could I open it? I' willing to try anything short of drilling out the lock. Thanks very much in advance, and best wishes.
  11. Hello everyone, As stated in my previous thread regarding the 602 radio, I just recently inherited a 1946 Special Deluxe Business Coupe from my mother. I have very limited car knowledge, and think it's great that a resource such as this forum exists - I plan on coming here for all of my P15 questions! I was planning on showing the car in a few weeks at a local AACA meet, and want to make sure I do as much as is reasonably possible within a short period of time to prepare. This car was my mothers daily driver for many years in San Diego during the 1970s, and it shows in certain places. The wood graining on the driver and passenger side doors are in disrepair (see photos). Is there anything I can do, as someone totally new to the hobby, to better the condition without fear of messing it up more? The only thread I found that mentioned this problem is here. I plan to give the car a total wash, polish, and waxing soon. It was last repainted in the early '70s, and as far as I know, it was painted using "period correct" paint (my grandfather is a stickler for keeping antique cars original). Are there any products I should avoid so as not to damage the paint? Are there any products that you are familiar with that are specially formulated for cars of this age?Do you have any advice for a newbie like me that doesn't know much about antique cars?In the long run, I plan restoring the car to how it was when my mother first received it in 1970, or possibly even nicer. Thank you so much for your help, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions!
  12. Hi all, I have a quick question concerning the last two moldings to go back on my 48 P15. I am installing the rocker trim and since it was never on the car when I got it I want to make sure before I snap it down that the orientation is correct. Below are two pictures: In the first picture is it correct for the molding to go just after the stainless fender trim or does it go around it. see below: In this second picture does this look correct and is the orientation correct. I think so but last time I installed all the trim upside down and had to remove it all and redo it. Big pain. Thanks for the help, these two pieces should complete my 10 year project. Thanks Chet, Northern Virginia
  13. I posted yesterday regarding a 383 conversion in my 1946 plymouth. My reasoning for the swap was for speed. I currently have the stock flathead six with a 12 volt conversion and the car is maxed out at 55 mph. I was thinking about using the wilcap transmission adapter and bolt in a 700r4 overdrive transmission. I was wondering if this transmission conversion will get me more speed. What other things could I do to get the stock flathead to hit 65-75mph? I have been told the transmission conversion with a change in the gearing would help. Just looking for some guidance. Thanks!
  14. Does anyone on here have or know someone who would be willing to sell a rear hub for a 1946 plymouth. I cannot find this thing anywhere.
  15. P15-D24 Forum, I am new to vintage Mopar, and want to thank you all for the great information I've gotten on this forum over the past few months. I've search the forum over and haven't been able to determine if the chrome vent window trim (between the vent and window) on a '46 Plymouth Coupe is the same as the trim found on a '48 Plymouth Coupe. I think it should be, but can't validate. Also, how was the chrome attached to the window. Any insights anyone could provide would be much appreciate. Thanks. Dave (in Houston)
  16. Hello everyone. My name is Virgil, I live in Colorado Springs, and I recently picked up my first street rod project. I am 27, dad, husband, and I was in the Marines from 2005-2011. Ok so about the car. This will be my first complete build. I learned how to weld from my grandad. I learned alot on my own so far but I know there is plenty more for me to learn. I picked up a 1966 Chrysler 383 for $200 bucks that I plan to drop in it. Motor is complete minus intake and carb but I did get all the pulleys, accessories, and all the nuts and bolts the guy could find. Going to keep looking for a 4-speed for it. With all that said and done I am into this project so far for $900 and I am trying to keep it that way. I am in no way saying that I will be taking the cheap route on everything I do. If I need to spend money to do something the right way I will but where I can save I want to. I have seen that a shock relocation on the front of these helps. I dont want to spend $2K on a Mustang 2 front end. I also have seen that the steering will be an issue with my big block. So I have a few questions: 1. What rearend should I be looking for? (trying to stay all Mopar, 383 will be a mild build) 2. How good is the front end on these? What do I need to change/upgrade? 3. Anything I need to know before I start the build? I plan on doing everything I can myself. I orginally wanted to build a gasser but the more I looked at the body I saw it more of the cruiser for the family. Thanks in advance for everyone's comments and inputs.
  17. I'm cleaning up the car (obviously not done with all the crud still in the pic) and wanted to determine as much as I can on the transmission. The gearshift housing has 853855-63 with PF I think above and I don't know what the symbol below is. On the case near the extension it looks like the numbers are KP15C 220 48. There is another number on the extension 853880-32.
  18. I know that the 230 engine was completely rebuilt in 1980 and we only put about 3000 miles on the rebuild, then it was parked mainly because of the brakes and needing to drive longer distances for work. When I checked to see if it would turn over, it did and the oil pressure gauge showed it has oil pressure. I'm wondering, is there any need to open it up and check anything? Or should I just clean it up, change the fluids, plugs, etc, check compression and if the compression is good, use it?
  19. I was looking around to see what would be good to soak my old carb and other parts in to get them clean. I found this thread where a guy used Pine-Sol successfully. Any of you guys tried this? http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
  20. I had a productive Saturday. From this: To this: I've got a couple of rust spots to patch, but overall, it's not bad. The rust is limited to where it was bolted to the front fender on both sides. The drivers side is the worst of the two. It's solid metal at the bottom. Back in 1980, the body guy put a fiberglass patch over it. The side is solid. I put a magnet on the side to check that it's all metal. The passenger side is in better shape. Again, a small fiberglass patch was on it. Now for clean up, new wiring harness, front end rebuild, shocks, and checking out the engine.
  21. I'm replacing the old MC with a new one. I followed the instructions in the shop manual to disassemble it and I've read the threads on the bushing in the brake and clutch pedals. I still need to clean up everything, but I'm very doubtful the bushing is going to go back into the brake pedal with the pin as it barely came off and actually stretched the brass bushing as it came off it was so tight. I know it's a dumb question, (so I'll call it a sanity check ) but I want to make sure I'm clear on what correct actually is since the bushing has a hole for the grease fitting, I'm assuming that the pin stays in place on the MC with the pedals rotating on the pin with the bushing and grease, but I wanted to make sure that is the case. How it was working the way it was on the car doesn't make sense to me since the brake pedal was unable to move on the pin it was so tight and grease wouldn't go anywhere and the pin was really tight on the MC. Of course the pedal was on the floor, so it may not have worked if the brakes were working. On one of the threads, Don recommended to take it to a machine shop to get it all fitting correctly. I'm assuming correctly is having them make the pin a bit smaller where the pedals with bushings are snug but move on the pin with grease but the pin stays in place in the MC?
  22. Hello folks! I am just getting started on this wonderful journey of building up my first car! I picked up a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door from my uncle who bought it sight unseen when he was sh*tfaced several years back. The last time it ran was in the early 1970's and had been kept in a barn in Puget Sound-area Washington ever since. Needless to say, it needs work. Now, I've been doing as much research as I can regarding standard issues with this model and I have a pretty good idea of where to go. However, a friend has just made me an interesting offer. Now, this may offend some of you, but I'm not very picky about keeping it strictly mopar. I just want a ride that is comfortable, reliable, and performs decently; it doesn't have to be outrageous. Anyways, a friend offered me the entire drivetrain, including motor and transmission, out of his 1984 Z28 Camaro if I swap a 350 I have lying around into his Camaro. Now, I've swapped a few motors out before and this is no issue, however, upon doing a bit of research, I noticed that the Z28 Camaro and the 1948 Special Deluxe have nearly identical wheelbases. What I'm wondering is, how difficult do you think this would be to make this work. I would essentially be swapping front-end, motor, trans, and rear-end out of this Camaro. Do you think it would be possible to do without having to do major damage/mods to the frame? Thank you so much for your time and knowledge!
  23. Does anyone know where I can find spring bushings for my 1949 Plymouth business Coupe? When I am torqued up and driving the car goes good but when I let off the gas it shimmys like the rearend is moving around. I would like to get polyeurathane bushings if I can but rubber would be fine too. any information would be helpful. Thanks
  24. I went to the farm and checked out the P15 to see what I need to get it home. It was a bit dirty sitting in the barn for so many years. This is before I sprayed it off. The handbrake seems to work, so that's good, considering the back brake lines were laying under it. The front tires had air and the rear tires actually are holding air, so not bad for 33 year old tires I checked the fluids and then we cranked it over. It wasn't getting any spark, but the oil pressure gage was working with a few cranks. The gas tank was completely empty, it ran out of gas the last time it was running, so when I went to siphon out the old gas, the tank was completely dry. The trim, two air cleaners and extra parts in the trunk. No spark, it needs rewired, and cleaned up. The sheep were rough on the fender. This was in good shape until they rubbed up against it in the barn. It think it will bend back out ok. After spraying it off, I like the patina. I might clear coat it and run it that way while I focus on mechanical. Link to the photo album https://plus.google.com/photos/107394537078274784684/albums/5908950325288023217?authkey=CLToupbcj7f67gE
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