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  1. I have a rebuild kit for my master cylinder which contains a large rubber washer of which I am not sure where to fit. The manual diagram is unclear as to it's location, so I am guessing it goes between the large nut and the spring, can anyone shed some light as to where it should go please?
  2. Hello all, I'm new here and relatively new to vintage Mopars but I love to learn. I've learned a lot working on our '55 Plymouth Savoy. It has a 230 and 3 speed manual and remains original. It seems in many ways this car is a lot closer to the earlier Plymouths and Dodges than the 57-up Forward Look cars. So that's why I'm here to learn a little more about these cars and continue working on small improvements while we enjoy the Savoy. Its such a transition car, new 50's lines but an old flathead and 6V system. Very fun to work on so far... During a replacement of the master cylinder on the Plymouth, I noticed there were some leaky wheel cylinders on the front of the car. I pulled the drum and noticed a big mess, and cleaned things and replaced the cylinders. I plan to do the rest of the wheel cylinders and shoes since they're probably all shot. Sadly, the brake shoe retainer on the front was missing and appeared to have rusted off years ago. My questions are 1. Does anyone reproduce the shoe retainers clips, or do I need to find another used backing plate? These are the two that are held on with rivets to the backing plate. 2. I have to turn the drums, and they may be beyond their limit. Is there anyone out there with new front or rear drums? (I'm still waiting to hear from Kanter and Bernbaum). Thanks for any advice and I love the forums. Learned a lot already about valve adjustment and other mechanical tips I'll definately apply.
  3. Problem: The car cannot be driven because the brakes lock on after a few presses of the pedal. I've put new rubbers in the drums and master cylinder. I believe the problem is related to the return valve in the master cylinder but after adjustment per the manual the pressure release port is still inoperative although after much adjustment the port opens but not at the time it should. Can anyone help me understand what's happening here and how to fix it? Thanks!
  4. Hello I have just be told that my brake drums are not serviceable (lining to thin, can't turn them). Does anyone know where to find new (or newer) drums. Mine have BUDD-61189 on them. They are 14" drums. Thanks
  5. Hello, Can you anybody help me figure out a rear backing plate situation on my 1946 Dodge Truck that has got me really baffled. I purchased a 1946 Dodge Truck 1/2 ton civilian last year and when I went to rebuild the rear brakes I found out they were from a 1953 Plymouth? I purchased the new wheel cylinders from a vendor that deals with vintage Chrysler products parts and found out the wheel cylinders would not fit the Plymouth backing plates. Ok so then I thought I would just go out to E-bay and buy some backing plates that are the correct ones for my 1946 Dodge truck. I purchased backing plates from two separate people and neither one of them fits the wheel cylinders I bought. The wheel cylinders are either too large for the hole it mounts to or the mounting bolt spacing is off. Also one wheel cylinder's mounting bolt pattern is at the top and the other is at the bottom. What is the size center to center for the mounting bolt holes for a proper 1946 Dodge truck. I guess the next time I go out shopping for some rear backing plates I need to ask somebody what the mounting hole center to center dimensions are as well as the center hole where the wheel cylinder goes through. I have some pictures I have attached. Thank you, Harry
  6. I have been struggling for some time to fix the brakes on my B3C. Today I got them to the point where I was adjusting the brakes and found that one of my rear drums is not quite perfect. When I spin the drum it always rubs in the same spot on the rear brake shoe even when I have the shoes adjusted all the way in. I have a couple 1/2 ton drums and I slid one on there just for kicks and it fit fine and spun without rubbing. I'm guessing my original drum is out of round. After putting that 1/2 ton drum on there I got to wondering why can't I just use half ton drums and put different wheels on? Is there any reason not to do this? The axles look identical up to the drums and wheels. What am I missing here?
  7. Hello all, New to the forum. I'm about to start restoring a 1953 B4B pickup that used to be mine but is now my dad's. It's been sitting for about 10yrs. I'm starting with the brakes. While I can find most parts except for the drums, I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile (and safer) to just update the front and rear-ends to something newer. Has anyone done that or does anyone know what will fit with minimal modifications? Forgive me if this has already been discussed. Thank you
  8. A couple of weeks ago I noticed a grabbing and dragging in my rt. front wheel. When I took off the wheel there was lots of brake dust, and evidence of moisture. When I peeled back the rubber dust cap on the wheel cylinders it was obvious that they were seeping. The cylinders are only 8 yrs old. So, I took off the cylinders, took them apart, cleaned them and ran a hone through them. Now I am trying to install the new seals. All of the info I can find simply says to clean and hone the cylinders, install the new parts and bingo! you're all done. What I am having problems with is trying to stretch the new seals onto the pistons. The inner dia. of the new seals looks similar to the inner dia of the old ones, but they are impossibly tight. I lubed them with brake fluid, but of course they are now slippery and even more difficult to work. I am reluctant to use something like pliers to grab and stretch the seals because I do not want to nick or damage the seal or the piston. What is the secret? Help!
  9. This is on my 1952 Dodge Coronet. I'm having issues with my rear brakes dragging after the pedal has been applied. I have searched & read quite a few threads about dragging rear brakes. After a short drive, the rear wheels will be warm & I can see a little steam coming out the rear wheel well. So far, I have made the minor adjustments according to what I have read here & the recommendations of a local mechanic who works on a lot of old cars. I have replaced the rear rubber brake hose. I have also used a dental pick to clean out the rear hole inside the master cylinder. I am getting a pretty good stream of fluid when I press the pedal. But after I press the pedal, it is quite difficult to turn the rear tires. I worked on it last night. This morning when I went to work on it, I was able to turn the rear drums (tires are off the car & at my brother's house cause he was fixing some leaks they had) But then I applied the pedal a few times. What am I overlooking here? What should be my next step? After I get my rear tires back from my brother, I was thinking maybe it was time to remove the rear drums & see what's going on in there. Thanks
  10. The p15 has a new gas tank, fuel pump, pcv. system and is running better than ever. Even added a redirad to listen to relicradio. Been driving it everywhere with no problems. Drove it out to stone mountain, had a great time until I noticed the brakes were getting way soft, almost to the floor. I did a minor adjustment(did a major one on fresh shoes and drums about 600 miles ago with Aamco tool) and after that, pedal was firm and high. Drove it another 100 or so, started getting lower again. So two questions: 1. How often do you guys do minor adjustments? 2. Any chance those minor adjusters are slipping?
  11. DLK

    Rear drums

    I wrote earlier about my brake issue last Friday. I called the brake shop and they have two hours labor into trying to remove that left rear drum with no luck. They are concerned they may have to break the drum to get it off. As if that isn't bad enough the four front wheel cylinders with less than 1500 miles are leaking. I spent $1300 on a brake job in 2011 and at the time the brake shop told me the wheel cylinders I bought were Chinese knockoffs and junk. Clearly they were right and they were right in saying I should have re-sleeved the NOS ones in the car. Any thoughts other than putting heat on that drum to get it off? They have fried it and tried to pound it off. I suppose it is so grooved it won't come over the shoes. Are used drums that hard to come by? I hope my Wayfarer uses the same rear drums as Plymouth's. They don't want to break the drum without my "blessing".
  12. Hey guys. I'm getting ready to do exploder front disc swap on my 48 p15. I tried doing a search and found that I could keep the original MC, but it seems like all of you running front discs with the original MC have the original rear too. I've got a 9" rear with drums. Not sure what it's out of, it was on there when I bought the car. Assuming something 70s since that's what the motor is. Will that make a big difference? Also about the residual valves, I'm assuming I'll need a 2lb valve for the front and 10lb for the rear? Like I said, I tried searching and got a lot of links to posts that don't exist anymore, so hoping someone can help me out. Thanks!
  13. Hi all, Is there a way to update the brake overhaul technical topic (http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html)? I've been overhauling my brakes, and I had a hard time getting all the fittings to seal up so they don't leak. I think at least one of my problems was failing to use a thin copper washer at the point where the flexible brake hoses screw into the front upper wheel cylinder - both front wheels leaked from there regardless of how much I tightened the hoses. Since I bought new cylinders for the front, I had only disassembled one front upper cylinder and it didn't have the washer. As part of troubleshooting my leaks, I disassembled the other one and found a thin copper washer between the hose and the cylinder. I looked at the parts list and there is an entry: GASKET, Wheel cylinder hose (Copper, 29/64" ID x 13/16" OD, .091 thk)In the tech topic, I'd like to add this to the list of stuff you need to buy and to the instructions for reassembling the parts. Hopefully adding the copper gaskets will stop my last leaky points in the hardware so I can get the bleeding done! T
  14. I wonder if anyone can help me with some brake light wiring questions. I finally decided to add an extra pair of brake lights to my stock 41 Plymouth P-12 coupe. It originally only had the single, trunk mounted light, which just doesn' cut it in modern traffic...too many times people don't notice me braking. I added two NOS 6 volt "Guide Lamp" style lights with red lenses on the rear bumper, and connected the wiring to the existing single brake light wire. I installed 6 volt, 20 watt halogen bulbs. It worked fine initially, but eventually blew the single 30 amp fuse in the main lighting circuit. Following some on-line tech tips, I tried re-routing the hot wire from the brake light switch directly to the solonoid on the starter, and installed a 20 amp in-line fuse. This bypasses the main light circuit and keeps the central fuse from blowing, but when I tested the brake lights for several minutes I noticed that the ammeter now jumps way to the positive side and the brake light housings get so hot they literally start to smoke! Is this an issue with the halogen bulbs themselves, or is re routing the hot wire to the solonoid a bad idea? Should I just ditch the halogen bulbs and go back to regular (dim) bulbs, and/or switch the wiring back? Maybe I'm the dim bulb here.....
  15. Hey Guys - I've been away from my project for a while, it's crazy weather here in VT too much ice to ski so I'm in the shop. Brake job on 1949 1/2 ton I know I had seen some good posts on this and searched but other than the tech page I really didn't find anytining on it. I have not located the right puller for the rear yet but the fronts aren't a walk in the park either. I pulled the drums, pulled the shoes and the rusted up cyls and tried to move the cam adjusters at the bottom, one is not seated all the way to the shoulder and neither will budge on either side am I missing someting? I backed off the castle nuts and pulled the two backing bolts so it's the backing plate is free wheeling. One of the shorter cam nuts looks stripped and so is the castle nut. I haven't hit it with the hot wrench yet but suspect that will free it up. Looks like these cams are also the bolt that holds on the steering linkage? I know many of you have converted with the rusty hope kit and eventually I would probably go disc but I've already got new shoes for front and will keep her stock for now. Anyone got a bucket of spare front 1/2 ton parts you want to sell a cam bolt or two out of? I'll need a source for wheel cyl, felt washers for behind shoe, and clips too. could use a couple spare lugs too. Any input on freeing up the cam bolts welcome. Thanks !
  16. I'm replacing the old MC with a new one. I followed the instructions in the shop manual to disassemble it and I've read the threads on the bushing in the brake and clutch pedals. I still need to clean up everything, but I'm very doubtful the bushing is going to go back into the brake pedal with the pin as it barely came off and actually stretched the brass bushing as it came off it was so tight. I know it's a dumb question, (so I'll call it a sanity check ) but I want to make sure I'm clear on what correct actually is since the bushing has a hole for the grease fitting, I'm assuming that the pin stays in place on the MC with the pedals rotating on the pin with the bushing and grease, but I wanted to make sure that is the case. How it was working the way it was on the car doesn't make sense to me since the brake pedal was unable to move on the pin it was so tight and grease wouldn't go anywhere and the pin was really tight on the MC. Of course the pedal was on the floor, so it may not have worked if the brakes were working. On one of the threads, Don recommended to take it to a machine shop to get it all fitting correctly. I'm assuming correctly is having them make the pin a bit smaller where the pedals with bushings are snug but move on the pin with grease but the pin stays in place in the MC?
  17. Hi all, A couple of months ago I picked up a 3/4 ton that's pretty straight, complete and original for $1800. It's got a rebuilt engine (receipts, looks and sounds good), though most of the "peripherals" need attending to. I'm rebuilding the carb, new fuel pump, rebuilt starter (old one would sometimes grind). No rust to speak of, but it's been sitting for over 20 years (fuel tank being cleaned/repaired). Keven's been very helpful and did a beautiful job on my speedo and gauge cluster. This is my eleventh old pick-up ('25 Dodge - '57 Ford), and while I've done all kinds of work on these old timers, I am to a large extent still a "learner." I've also been without a truck for 20 years while in family mode (though I've had dreams about my '27 Chevy and my '35 Dodge). My dad's been coming over once a week and helping on various projects. Today we pulled off the front wheel to take a peek at the brake situation. I'm familiar with the basics, but my dad had a concern about what we were looking at in terms of the spindle. There's some torn thin metal surrounding the base and a bit of a groove as well. I'd be grateful for any comments regarding this. I'd also be grateful for suggested resources for new cylinders (front and rear) and possibly drums, bearings, etc. I'm also including a shot of the rear drum. I'm used to seeing some gap between the drum and the rear plate, but this seems a bit much. Any thoughts? Attachments: 1. Front spindle showing torn metal and groove in spindle. 2. Drum with rear spindle in place (pressed?). 3. Rear drum showing gap between drum and backing plate. With thanks, Ralph San Jose, CA
  18. I've got a '48 P15 Business Coupe and it's 2 hours away on my dad's farm in a shed. I know that one of the back wheel cylinders is leaking and it has no brakes at all. However, I believe it will start and run well enough to get it on a trailer. The issue is obvious, I need it to be able to stop the car until I can get it to my garage to replace the entire brake system. It's not in a location where you can do actual repairs. So, my question is, what is the best way to get any brakes at all to pull it on and off a trailer? One thought I had was perhaps I disconnect the line in the master cylinder going to the back brakes and put in a (I assume) 3/16th brass or steel plug. I'm thinking that would give me front brakes if I did that and give me the ability to stop the car. Again, I plan on replacing everything with new parts and never driving it on the road until I do. I'm not a mechanic, and one big goal of this is to learn all I can on this particular car so if this idea makes no sense, please let me know my best options.
  19. Hi I'm new to the forum and new to older cars. I have a couple of muscle cars of the late 60's vintage but I'm finding out this old dodge is a great learning experience and a lot different. I'm attempting to redo the brake system and have run into a snag. I need a front drum and either a source for wheel studs or a rear drum. I have the heavy duty 12inch drums with 9/16-18 studs and wheel nuts (not the wheel bolts and tapped drums I've uncovered in my research). It's listed as a B1 pickup and I think a 3/4 ton. The stock studs have a .7 diameter knurl and all the manufacturers I've checked only go up to .68 - no press fit there. I appreciate any help or advise. Thanks
  20. So bottom line is I had the front brake drum turned and it still doesn't fit over the new brake pads? Any help is appreciated! Didn't know if this would make a difference but does a 49 B-1-B and a 52 B-3 have the same size of brake drums and pads? Both are 1/2 tons. Thanks
  21. 75 downloads

    1950 Plymouth rear brake exploded view with parts list. Taken from a 1950 Passenger car parts list (Reprint) They are fairly cheap as well so if you need this you may want to invest in one.
  22. Guest

    Brake.pdf

    379 downloads

    Overview guide for setting up Bendix brakes
  23. So I was having brake trouble on my 48 P15. I posted a thread on here and got a bunch of great suggestions but for whatever reason, I still could not get the brakes right. I finally decided to take it to a mechanic who knows old cars and had AAA tow it there.... Well on the way, the chain broke on the flat bed and the p15 crashed into the wall between the cab and the bed on the tow truck. It smashed the emblem, broke the bumper guards off and bent the bumper, bent the hood in, dented the grill and might have damaged the frame... Well the tow truck guy wants a local body shop he is familiar with to fix it who estimated the damage at 2k and I had a guy who specializes in old cars who happened to be next door to the mechanic shop and he estimated 6k. They both can't be right, right? A new grill, a new hood, new bumper(possibly), how much would that run? I want it done right but is 6k absurd? Can an ordinary body shop fix an old car?
  24. I'm listing a Miller Specialty Tools brake adjustment tool set here & on ebay. It's got the gauge with a short & long pin, another thing(rod w/ sliding conical pieces?) & 7 mandrels for various years of Mopar vehicles from early 1930's through mid 1950's, other than that I really have no clue on specific years & makes it would fit?? The mandrel #'s are: 30, 31, 32, 41, 44, 47 & 70 I saw another guy on here asking about the same set & he said he found that mandrel #44 fit Ford Model A & my dad thought the #70 fit Dodge trucks? I know there's a guy selling CD's with PDF's of the Miller Tool service guide for $20, but I don't need the whole guide, just the I.D.'s for the mandrels. ANY HELP WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!! Anyone interested or needs to see photos check on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270752319389&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123#ht_1912wt_948
  25. I have a 1948 (registered as '49) D-24 4 dr sedan that needs two rear 10" brake drums. Mine have to be cut off as they WONT come off! Anyone have anything? Thanks!
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