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Found 10 results

  1. So here’s what’s going on. On my Chrysler I like to get better highway gears. I came across a 1960 Plymouth fury rear axle. Was hoping to drop it in but after some research I don’t think I can as my axle is 60” 5x4.5 and my leaf spring mounts would be 47 where the fury is 55.5” 5x4 and spring mounts is 45.5? so this leads me to is could I take the gears from the fury and put into my axle?
  2. Hello again everyone. My brother and I have been working on pulling out the motor/trans because we believe the ring gear on the flywheel went. I currently have a 265ci long block in the car. I want to rebuild it because oil pressure is like 5 psi idling and 25 on the hwy. I found on kijiji a 23 with trans for 500 that was rebuilt in 1995. It showed 40-50 psi in a video while it was idling (warm I’m assuming by the temp gauge next to it) is this too high for idling? anyways getting to the point. I would like to get that 230 as a replacement till I can afford to rebuild the 265 however looking at the motor mounts i don’t see anything modified to fit the 265. I was under the impression it had a 23 block before and they have to squeeze that long block in. Did is my car come with a 23 or 25 block? Attached is is the motor and mounts
  3. With my chrysler i have a couple small complaints in terms of its looks. I feel the rear tail lights are too small for how big thr back is (any suggestions on bigger lights will be nice) bumpers stick too far out but my biggest beef is the grill. The whole car is curves and i love it. To me it screams aerodynamic (might not actually be the case but the body lines makes sense to me) what doesnt make sense to me is the rectangular grill. Everything is curves then boom lets make a straight grill. What i love to know is, can a 1941 plymouth grill/front face be switched out? I love the look of the 41 plymouth I go for a 1939 plymouth but those square lights....
  4. Almost done! I am 99% done with the wagon, which is a good thing since Woodies on the Wharf in Santa Cruz, is only 10 days away! My son Jeff is helping me do the final door fitment, reattach the running boards, and do the final systems check. We painted it in my shop 2 weeks ago, and I plan to take it to my cousin's tire shop on Monday to have the alignment checked and to make sure I didn't leave out some critical component. We plan to drive it to the show from home (Sanger), a 300 mile round trip, and just heard that the weather will be hot that day-107 degrees, so we will be leaving early. I need one last part and I'm not sure exactly what it looks like-it's the spare tire holder-the metal piece that rotates down on to the spare to hold it in place. Plymouth mounted the spare inset into the back of the front seat, so it's definitely unusual. Something about being more easily accessible for the ladies, I think. Any Plymouth woodie owners out there have a pic? Cheers! Bob
  5. Can anyone recommend an exterior visor for a 1940 plymouth P10 Sedan?? Thank you tydavis73@gmail.com (951) 543-2376
  6. Hi everyone, first post here. Great looking site with great information. I am hoping someone can help me with a query I have. My family has what is almost certainly a Canadian built D15 and I am looking to decipher the data plate on the firewall. I know information is sketchy at best...especially for Canadian built cars, but any help is greatly appreciated! The tag reads: D15 2DR SED 1317 1559 AKF 1317 is the body number, correct? As in the number of the D15 body that rolled down the line? Does anyone know what 1559 paint code or AKF trim code is? The car was owned for roughly 40 years by the same owner before he passed away and we purchased from his family last year. The car was clearly cared for and driven often, and will continue to be loved and driven. Luckily he had stored away A TON of spare parts and Canadian specific manuals. None of the manuals have been too much help with colour/ option information or history unfortunately. Thanks for your help! Dean
  7. Good morning all, this is going to be my restoration album for any and all work I do to my 1940 Dodge D14 De-luxe (or deluxe, it varies based on what old brochure you're looking at). I'm really thinking about naming the car Mary Jane after my late grandma, who never wanted anything more than to ride in it before she passed. I'll always regret that I couldn't do that for her but I'll dedicate my work to her memory instead. Just so everyone knows, this will be the first attempt at something of this scale and complexity in my entire life so I'm sure I'll be asking for a lot of help on it. But if you want to stay and read through goof ups or are thinking about the same thing yourself and want some ideas, I'll say my purpose in posting is complete. One thing I really want to do is to break this down as intelligently as possible so here's what I'm thinking: 1. Do work in zones. Electrical, fuel delivery, transmission, engine, oil system, brakes and wheels, interior,body, paint. Fully completing one and then moving on to the next 2. Then break down each zone into its own checkpoints. E.g for electrical, wiring the brake lights, converting to 12v (if I do), etc 3. Keeping everything organized. If you have any tips like special bins for parts or anything feel free to throw those at me. This weekend I'll post pictures to show where I'm starting from and what my garage looks like and then we'll let the fun begin.
  8. I have been making good progress on the P10 wagon since summer. As Don indicated, it doesn't rain anymore here in Fresno, so we can work on our cars 24hrs/day, 12 months /year. Here are a few progress pics. I put 10 coats of varnish on it last summer, and then fit the wood to the chassis this spring. Most of the metal pieces inside the car are powdercoated -there is a shop in Clovis - Kip's Powder Coating) that not only does great work, but is very reasonable too. I find myself powder coating parts that I hadn't thought of powder coating, like the piano hinges for the doors and tailgate, just because they make it so easy! I installed a split intake and exhaust manifold from George Asche, with two rebuilt Carters and had a local radiator shop make up a split exhaust that blends back into the single exhaust pipe. These are old time muffler guys and assured me that I didn't need dual exhausts, because of the size of the single pipe and the output of the 218 that I'm using. Good thing, because the placement of the gas tank, off to the drivers side, makes it pretty tough to route a second exhaust there. I also installed a George Asche OD that I bought from him 10 years ago and with the dual carbs and split exhaust, I can easily get it up to 65mph. Not sure how fast I want to go in a car made out of toothpicks, but it's nice to know that I will be able to keep up with traffic anyway. Next challenge : the seats.
  9. I've been making good progress in the last month on what started out to be my 1940 Plymouth wagon project and now has turned into a '40-'41 wagon hybrid. A year ago January I found a '41 with great wood, but on a chassis that would need a ton of work.I wondered if it would fit the 1940 chassis/cowl that I had been working on since 2003. The differences between '40 and '41 wooden bodies (made by US Body and Forging Company) were minimal, so I did the frame measurements between the 2 years and asked around (thanks Jim Benjaminson!) and decided that the swap would work. I pulled the wood off the '41 and spent the summer applying 10 coats of varnish, hand sanding etc, between coats. I think it's looking pretty good. Right now I'm sorting out the mechanical and electrical systems, and the George Asche OD. I've upgraded some components - front disk brakes, dual master cylinder, OD, turn signals, Coker WW radials and halogen dash and headlights. I got the P20 engine from a guy in N. CA that runs his own auto repair shop and used to race the Mopar flathead 6s, so this one purrs like a kitten. I kept it 6 volt and as stock looking much as I could. I hope to put the wood to the metal in the spring. The hardest thing was choosing the color. They only came in Hampton Beige, with yellow brackets and trim - which I didn't care for. The color is the same green that Chevrolet used in the 1941-46 pickups and if you didn't specify a color- you got this green. It's all about the wood, and I think the green will enhance the look. I will be powder-coating the brackets and trim a dark bronze with just a hint of metal flake in it. The top will be black vinyl, the seats leather. I'll post more pictures as I go Bob Riding
  10. Looking to get some interior pictures of a D14 sedan, the upholstery is completely shot and I wanted to get an idea of what the original looked like in order to recreate it. This is what I have so far.
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