MikeV

I really appreciate all the good comments on the freeze plug problem. I’ve decided to use a steel plug as I already have a couple of them. That’s what the factory probably used although, brass ones would work, but I would have to buy a package of ten and I only need one. as far as a sealer, I think that I’ll start off with a thin coat of JB weld and then finish off the installation with Permatex # 2 around the outside of the edge’s of the plug. I don’t think that the factory bothered to use sealant, they probably just banged them in with a drift, but who knows?

Thanks to all that responded!! some great information and I really appreciate you all taking the time to help! I am a little confused as to whether use a steel or brass plug. There seems to be lots of opinions about that and also, using JB Weld as a sealer. I’ll have to think that out a bit.......

Good question. I didn’t really have any guidelines for how much to dimple the plug. i have thought about using a AC Delco cooling system tabs (part No. 10-108) as a stop leak. a friend who has antique cars says it works to stop very small leaks. anyone in the Forum who has used this product, I would love some feedback!

I replaced a couple of freeze plugs on my 1952 Dodge engine two years ago, and now they are leaking! its not the dripping kind of leak, it’s just weeping around the plug. I really don’t want to drain the radiator and replace them again. The plugs that I used were round dome shaped and you had to dimple them after installation. Maybe I didn’t do it right or used the wrong sealant? anycase I would like any input or ideas about how to fix the problem. thanks guys!

I’m sure that I have TDC on the number one cylinder and the rotor is pointing at the 7 O’clock position. the problem is, every time I insert the oil pump into the block after carefully looking into the hole where the oil pump goes ( I can see the key on the distributor shaft and I try to align the slot in the oil pump to that position) the rotor moves out of the 7 O’clock position on the distributor. I'm trying to figure out how to insert the oil pump without moving the rotor out of the 7 O’clock position?

Thanks Joe for your input! i looked at my rotor after turning the engine over with the plugs removed and my thumb on the number one cylinder spark plug hole to check for the compression stroke. I also, noticed that my timing mark on the engine pulley was pretty much aligned with the pointer on the engine block. The rotor was pointing more like the eight O’clock position. Maybe that’s why the truck wouldn’t start.

Recently, I decided to replace the original oil pump on my ‘52 Dodge P/u thinking that it may be the reason for some of my low oil pressure problems. What I didn’t know, was that the distributor shaft connects to the oil pump via a slot at the end of the oil drive shaft. after removing my old pump and installing the new oil pump, my timing is off, and although I get good oil pressure, the engine won’t start. So, what is the best way to get the oil pump and the distributor lined up to get the correct timing? after thinking it through, I understand that the slot in the oil pump must align with the key at the end of the distributor shaft so that the number one cylinder spark plug fires at the piston at TDC. What is the best way to do this? thanks guys for your thoughts! Mike

Thanks Matt! the oil pressure relief valve came as part of the engine and was designed to control the oil pressure in the block whether you have a oil filter on the engine or not. That’s the way I see it, but I could be wrong. I just don’t know enough about the oil pressure plumbing in this engine. i removed the spring from the valve on the block and inspected it. The spring seemed to be easy to compress and weak, so I plan to replace it. it might even be the original spring! Can you control the engine oil pressure by changing springs? , I would think so, but there agin, I don’t know. thanks for your comments! mike

I have a 1952 Dodge 1/2 P/U with a 251 Cu flathead engine. I don’t have a oil filter on the engine. I have been told that the oil pressure relief valve only works if you have the optional oil filter attached to the engine. Is that true? I don’t know how the oil pressure relief valve works on these flathead engines. Could anyone explain how it functions? thanks! Mike

Thanks Reg Evans, knuckleharley, and Worden 18 for the replies!! I've got 800 miles on my 251 Cu engine since rebuild and the oil pressure issue always bothered me.I guess if it hasn't locked up on me by now, it's just find! thanks guys!

During the Summer months in Texas, when I drive my '52 Dodge 1/2 pickup, my oil pressure really gets low (15to20psi) while at idle say at a red light. While driving along at 50 to 55 mph, my oil pressure is good around 40 to 45 psi. I'm using a straight 30 wt oil, so I'm thinking that maybe I should run a higher viscosity oil in the Summer. I'm curious what other flat head six guys are running in their trucks in the way of oil. I know there are quite a few trucks like mine in the Midwest. I would appreciate any comments. Thanks! Mike

Merle, I found the website and called them. They have a rebuilt VA and I ordered one. THANK YOU so much for your help! Mike

thanks for the reply! I'm not familiar with Kanter. is there a website or phone # ? thanks!

Where did you find a rebuilt vacuum advance? Who rebuilds them. I need to replace mine as well. thanks!