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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

294 profile views
  1. Howdy! Just when I had almost given up looking for a first gen Dakota one popped up on craigslist. It was a complete 1989 standard cab long bed 123.9” wheelbase 2wd. It was local, cheap, and I brought it home three days ago. So far I did some preliminary measuring, cleaned all the ants and pine needles out of it, and pulled the motor, trans, and bench seat. My 400 block failed magnaflux testing (crack in the valley). So I need another or I have a line on a 440/727.
  2. Radarsonwheels

    Big block mopar into C series

    Nice pics! Thanks for the response
  3. Radarsonwheels

    Big block mopar into C series

    Also does your v8 or do the first poly motors still triangulate the mounts with two in the back and one front and center? That’s how my flathead mounts. I suppose all the flatties are like that? I saw a guy with a poly in a 50s dodge at a local cruise but I didn’t notice the motor mounts.
  4. Radarsonwheels

    Big block mopar into C series

    Thanks Bisquick! That is a sweet engine bay! Do you have any pics of how the oil pan sits in relation to the axle and steering linkage? That would be super helpful
  5. Howdy! I know this will be challenging and there are a lot of ways to skin this cat but I have some questions that hopefully those that have been down this road can help with. I’m putting a low deck 400 block in. I’d like to get it as low as possible and probably set it into the firewall a little bit. I’m keeping my 54 frame- it already has four wheel disc brakes, rebuilt 3/4 ton suspension, a nice aluminum radiator, and a modern rear axle that should live for a while before I have to buy a dana. The steering is loose but it’ll get reworked as part of the swap, along with some seatbelts! So the big question of today is what oil pan would work the best for me? I have a dented rear sump pan (‘78 truck?) I figure I could fabricate a new sump and make a matching oil pickup but it’d be nice if a stocker fit nicely. My block is at the machine shop and the truck still running the flathead so I can’t measure or mock up yet. I’m still collecting parts to finish the longblock and I have a 727 to check over.
  6. Radarsonwheels

    1949 Dodge 230 straight six carburetor

    I have a weber 32/36 clone on my 230 from langdon's stovebolt- it starts instantly like fuel injection and the power and drivability are awesome. I had a lot of old junk that if I drove it to work it was too much trouble to crank up and warm up to grab lunch or run an errand real quick but my truck with that carb on it is fantastic!
  7. Radarsonwheels

    Timing to retarded or not.

    I agree. It must be the case that some parts were definitely specified for a specific vehicle and I'm sure that if you call dana or spicer and order eighteen thousand rear axles they will build them to whatever length and ring gear diameter you want. GE probably sold a kabillion 7" headlights to the big 3. Mustangs and barracudas had kelsey hayes four pot brakes. Some stuff definitely adds to the personality of operating a vehicle- mopar engines and transmissions are not negotiable for me but my 73 swinger has fiat spyder buckets in it and they look good. For other people they need to see the M on each bolt head. I wish I had that kind of time and money! Throw up some pictures and then people that read this can be sickened by actual mopar blasphemy instead of the idea of it. Or even maybe say hey that looks great! Rdr
  8. Radarsonwheels

    Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    It's all installed! The front axle is in and I even drove it around the block once before my fuel pump died! It felt much tighter and drove straight despite a rough one man driveway toe setting. I thought it'd raise the front more than it did so I'm happy!
  9. Radarsonwheels

    New dodge truck owner

    Forgot to say- you can usually get headlight style mushroom pull switches pretty cheap at pep boys or whatever- they look close to the metal mushroom type pull knobs on the old truck dashbords. That would work in the meantime while you wait for original parts or just work in general with no cutting anything up. I have mine wired so the first detent is fuel pump & brake lights, the second detent adds in headlights and tail lights. Power to it and the coil is on a keyswitch.
  10. Radarsonwheels

    New dodge truck owner

    Keeping these trucks original is super cool but I went 12 volt and put in an alternator. Any kind of switch with a key or not can work as an ignition. Mine has a standard auto/marine keyswitch I just don't use the spring loaded momentary start function since the starter is foot actuated. good luck!
  11. Radarsonwheels

    Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    Thanks Frank! I like the off white 'cool vanilla'! My plan was gloss cream but too many people have told me their favorite touch is the grille patina and for now I dig it too. It took me a long time to find that grille and that is just how it looked when I got it. The bottom bar is actually a different color than the top and it has some waves and dents. I think if I ever get the body decently straight I will take another look at painting the DODGE in the tailgate and the grille bars in a creamy vanilla off white. I'd have to do some hammer and dolly and plastic work on the one bar first. That is a beautiful car! I lent out my b-series Bunn book but I thought my hood ornament was a '51 pickup truck ornament. Mine was missing some of the dodge letters and the cool circular badge was missing too. The ram is cool, looks right to a casual observer, and was cheap at a swap meet! I have been thinking about using harley fender spears (lower edge front fender trim) to finish the rear of the ornament but I'm afraid of festooning my classic simple truck with too much shiny junk before it's actually even straight. I'll probably leave it as is. eh... late night dinner digestion rambling. So here's a picture of the new kingpins installed and the axle painted and ready to install. G'nite!
  12. Radarsonwheels

    Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    You bet I did! That silver stuff is the best! And I certainly will report back about how all this long overdue maintenance affects the ride. I'm hoping it will be a noticable improvement. These kind of specialized forums are great for getting advice and help with problems, but they are also important for us as a place to brag about our minor victories and lament our defeats. I have a good number of friends that wrench on a lot of stuff from harleys to 1/4 milers and street freaks but almost none of them have tried to pound a kingpin out of a dodge straight axle. Thanks for making me feel welcome here.
  13. Radarsonwheels

    Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    The machine shop is done with my axle! It now has new kingpins and bushings installed, with everything clean and ready for paint. With a little luck I hope to have it picked up, brought home, painted, and drying before I have to go to work at the crack of noon tomorrow. In other news I got ready to crack the tie rod ends loose before the axle came home so I can set toe. I was ready for a fight! I had a bfh and a long bar and a torch lined up and ready by my large pipe vice. I'm convinced all this preparation is why after a brief soak in pb blaster I loosened the pinch bolts and effortlessly unscrewed both sides using my bare hands! I'm still waiting on my new bearings and drag link in the mail, and I'm going to need front tires due to dryrot. I also suspect my stance will change now that my shackles are working and the rear spring eyes will no longer be sitting on the frame. Anyway I'm excited- major progress!
  14. Radarsonwheels

    Timing to retarded or not.

    I have been through this on the slant sixes- I didn't know the old flatheads had the same system? Mine has a langdon's hei on it now that my buddy put on when he owned the truck and when I had it before that it was close enough that I just fine tuned. My experience with this is on the 70's dodge inline 6s. The small blocks have a flathead screwdriver type distributor drive so it's either right or 180° out, so the straight 6's distributor drive was a head scratcher at first. Hopefully it is a similar process on the flatty. When installing the distributors I try to get the rotor aimed at the proper tower and still have enough adjustment to twist in my setting. The problem is I had to remove the distributor to access the slotted hold down plate. If you work from the bottom of the distributor you'll see the plate itself can be clocked around the distributor. On the slant6 the distributor gear is helical and twists the rotor as it slides home so there is a lot of messing around trying to aim it at the proper tower to get a baseline before final setting and tuning. It is sometimes possible to get where you need to be by moving over a tooth, if not then you have to re-clock the hold down plate to the distributor body. My solution was to get the underneath bolt snug but not tight so the plate could still be clocked to the distributor while installed. Then it can be removed and would not easily move before you get the plate fully torqued to the distributor. If you got it right then it will be good enough to start up and have plenty of adjustment using just the bolt into the block. repeated disclaimer: this is based on experience with later mopar- I hope it helps! radar
  15. Radarsonwheels

    1952 disc break conversion

    I love my disc kit from him!

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