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Radarsonwheels last won the day on April 5

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

About Radarsonwheels

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

967 profile views
  1. Today was surge tank day. I’m new to tig welding but I was confident I could weld a vessel without much trouble. I used a chunk of 2x4 tubing and welding the caps on was easy. The only problem I ran into was the ‘vibrant performance’ brand mild steel weld in hosebarbs I bought were far from mild steel. It makes sense they would use some kind of free machining alloy to make them but where I was making nice airtight welds on the tank body when I hit the bungs with the torch I could see the garbage boiling and sizzling out of them. I wish I had some silicon bronze rod- it probably would have made it an easier job. Instead I just puddled the good steel and gently washed in the edges with it instead of hitting the corner like normal. It took a few trips to the kitchen sink for pressure testing to get the bungs all airtight. Once it stopped having leaks I blew some pressure in it and vicegripped the open hose. When I opened it ten minutes later it said “foomp” so I called it good. The top has an L of plate so I can hang it off the top of the frame and I hung brackets for the lift pump and the efi pump before and after the surge tank so they all line up and have room for a servicable amount of hose. I figure I’ll let the pre and post filters hang inline with the tube. It’s upside down with the paint drying on it in the last pic.
  2. Looks a lot cleaner than mine did but they were twins from the factory. That 3320 is very interesting! Is that with a full interior, wood bed, spare tire, tank of gas? I kind of figured mine would end up in that 3k-3500 lb range but I was under the impression the C series was closer to 3000 bone stock. What’s your plan for it?
  3. I finally talked to a Holley tech about the return lines. It looks like I will be fine running the throttle body and surge tank returns teed together into my fuel cell return. As long as the pressure in the efi return isn’t over 5psi it won’t unbalance the fuel pressure regulator. The carter lift pump is rated at 5psi deadheaded but running unrestricted straight back to the cell it should be all flow no pressure.
  4. I think a lot of the old detroit iron was 19 gauge steel which is now basically unobtainium. I’m a big fan of 16g- it’s thin enough to easily cut, bend, and hammer form but thick enough to be very forgiving to weld and strong too. You can do a lot with a 4” angle grinder and some cutting wheels and if you don’t have a truck (haha one that can drive to the metal supply) most big metal spots will throw a full sheet on the shear for a few bucks and get it down to a manageable size. Also if you are not a welder look into 3m panel bond- crazy strong for lap joints and nobody is gonna see it under a carpet or rubber floor. Just some more ideas for you. I just finished doing super heavy floor and firewall fabrication but I didn’t always know how or have the tools to do that kind of stuff- definitely do post some pics thurs. I have a joke I like to tell when people talk about rusty floors- it goes like this: ”I know a trick for fixing rust holes in floor pans- did you ever see ‘hotrod’ magazine?” ”sure” they say, expecting me to quote an article about making patch panels. ”well it’s got a nice glossy paper that holds up real good. You just peel back the floormats and carpet and spread out some new hotrod magazines over the holes then flap the carpet back over it!!” I think I’m pretty funny, but the real punchline is I actually did that for over a year to keep fumes and dirt from coming up into my ‘73 swinger before I fixed it right. You gotta change the magazines every few months...
  5. My old 230 was awesome- so reliable, simple, and transported me back in time to 1954 every time I stepped on the starter. It was a riding mower engine compared to a healthy mopar v8 though. If I ever found a clean truck with a flatty I wouldn’t hesitate to leave it in there. That first gen hemi is the holy grail of oldschool hotrodding though and how cool that it isn’t in a chopped ford! Still waiting for video Bisquik! Can you get somebody with a steady hand and a smartphone to make a nice startup and drive clip?
  6. The trans crossmember is in, exhaust all back in and re-gasketed with fancy percy’s aluminum, starter is in, the carb is off and the throttle body is on and wired to the new upstream o2 sensor and h2o temp sender. I need to go get some allthread to make a new air cleaner stud- the old one was 5/16” and the sniper is 1/4”. The old list I made to get done before reassembling the body is all crossed off now but I made a new one. Hoping to crank back up in the next few weeks.
  7. Welp 15% chance of rain turned out to be 100% here today but not before I got the transmission bolted back up to the motor. Thank goodness I remembered to hit the flexplate and converter with a shot of pink spraypaint- one out of the four bolts is offset and guessing involves spinning the motor over and over with a breaker bar. I have the pink corner of the flexplate down and the torque converter fully seated and held in with a box wrench bolted to the inspection cover hole on the bottom. All the ports are capped so rain isn’t a problem. I just have to take that wrench off and spin the pink side down and I can bolt it up. I’m waiting to do the starter till after the exhaust so I have more room to maneuver. The 727 isn’t particularly heavy but it’s heavy enough to make it a little struggle.
  8. More preparation for the efi today, and hopefully the exhaust and trans will get buttoned back up. The holley 950 throttle bracket looks like the throttle, return spring, and kickdown parts will swap right over. The 1977ish iron water pump has two sensor bungs for some reason. The factory plug in the inboard one needed a little persuasion from the ox/a torch to start unscrewing. It had only been plugging that hole for 42 years haha! The holley sniper sensor screwed right in by hand but at a slight angle which is disconcerting. It’s definitely not crossthreaded though- I took it out and back in and checked. I put some teflon paste on it for sealing insurance. I thought for sure I’d need to get creative or buy brass adapters so checking that item off is nice. I love having my burning rig on wheels now I use it all the time! I modified a $20 craigslist hand truck with brackets and straps so my sparker has a hanger and my hose coils and hangs neatly. I am lazy though and use the cutting tip for everything. Some day I’m going to hit the cut handle and vaporize something important.
  9. Happy easter y’all! Got my 3” clamps in the mail and set up the wideband bung for the efi. Also finally got around to mounting in and wiring up a tag light. Should look cool at night and give one less excuse to get pulled over. I also finally painted my transmission crossmember late last night. Once that’s dry I can mate the trans back to the engine block. All my exhaust gaskets are here so that can all get put back together soon too.
  10. Thanks Jomani! I made a custom tool to reach the hold down bolt on my ramcharger’s smallblock distributor. The standard L shaped 1/2” distributor wrench that goes on a ratchet worked fine on my A body smallblock hotrods but for some reason on the rc it is super tight around the firewall and vac advance can. Just an idea maybe it’ll help with yours. I have been busy collecting parts for my efi fuel system. I have the carter 4-6 psi lift pump, some good fuel hose to replace the short 1/2” sections that come off the fuel cell -8 fittings (apparently I used breather or heater hose what was I thinking?!). I used brass male-male reducers to 3/8” after that. If it is nice enough next week I’m planning to lay out my routing, fabricate the surge tank, and make brackets to hold the pumps filters and lines just below the tank. I had been nervous that the efi throttle body would have fitment issues with the firewall. It has three different spots to choose from for the fuel inlet but the return line is on the rear passenger side and faces rearward. I could theoretically install it backwards and have the cable linkages wrap to the front or weld a pocket in the firewall for clearance but either way sucks. I can’t mock it up for clearance because the cab is not installed. I thought it had a good chance of fitting since my carb’s fuel bowl tucks under the firewall/cowl and the sniper is more fat width wise and obviously doesn’t have fuel bowls but the uncertainty was nagging me. Technology to the rescue! Here’s a photo mock up from my pics and google image on my ipad. It looks like it’s gonna work!
  11. Sure. tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073VK3B7S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image 100 1/4”-20 rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BFVHCTL?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
  12. Wow amazon to the rescue my rivnuts and gun came at like 9:00 this morning! I’m about to go open my shop at noon but I had time to go replace the self tappers with the rivnuts. The screws left perfectly aligned pilot holes and the nuts slipped snug into 9mm holes. Glad I had metric bits around from some com-bloc projects. I had black oxide 1/4”-20 x 1” allens and stainless washers laying around so that’s what I used. They don’t seem to be eyesores I might keep em or I might do screws or bolts. Screws would be impossible to re-torque in the future and bolts would need paint... probably call it done and not get in the weeds when it works great as is. Plus I can see myself using the rivnut tool all over the place where there once were cheesy self tappers- it was a good investment.
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