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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

588 profile views
  1. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I love the sketch- I was thinking wow you even did a casual version of the architect all caps blueprint handwriting font, then I took a look at your profile- ha! I’m on board except for one thing- I want to show absolutely as much of this gorgeous wood as possible. I kind of feel like if I just do a nice 1/16” or 3/32” gap it will work great, drain rainwater and hose off easily, and I can tell myself I’ll do it right with angle strips when I get around to doing the body work right instead of just hacking at it. I also have to remember that the truck has a wiper arm groove in the one year only windshield and while it will never be a ‘ratrod’ it’ll always be a rat...
  2. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I have some woodworking tools but I borrowed a 10” tablesaw and bought a roller sawhorse and a 60 tooth diablo carbide blade. It had been a long time since high school shop class and I never ripped $100 boards before but I went slow and everything is coming out awesome. I got the two new boards ripped down- one to 11” and one to 12”- some extra for now. I’m going to fit the two boards on the sides around the wheel tubs first then sneak up on the central board last. I figure I’ll get them all fitting side to side then figure out how to mill out the corners after the shovel strips get here. If you look at the truck Los posted with the tree they spent a lot of time and money getting a bartop or high polish finish but the gaps suck around the tubs. I’m guessing they made patterns off the plane at the bottom of the wood and didn’t account for the tubs getting smaller at the top of the wood? I started making a cardboard pattern for the tub cutout in the bottom of the wood- here’s a pic. It’s still a little tight. When tried it on top of the wood an inch higher it was WAY big. I think I’m going to cut out the size of the top and hog out the angle until it will drop down, then round off the sharp top corner to get my 1/16” gap. This wood is easy to work with but any mistakes will be expensive!
  3. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Jeez Plymothy I don’t look down my nose at a fuel cell equipped truck but I definitely get it. I had that spun aluminum round tank in my truck with the flathead for a while and while it worked a treat it kind of reeked of a certain kind of streetrod wannabe racer deal. I think I feel the way you do when I see a car that sits below the scrub line or that ‘cambered’ ‘stanced’ german car with stretched tire thing, or even worse a tonneau cover hiding a hideous non functional bed interior that contains ill advised suspension parts instead of hauling capacity. I do like seeing an old pickup at the track with well a well fabricated cage and four link and big slicks in the bed- but it better not run a 13.5 second 1/4 mile. In any case I do agree with you enough that I want a bed that can be used to haul a mattress or a couch or bags of mulch for the missus’ garden and not have to unload at the gas station.
  4. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Maybe I should just cut the bottom of the battery box off and make bolt in brackets so the battery will drop out from the bottom. Then I can make a nice factoryish angle strip. The curve around the tubs would be challenging without a shrinker/stretcher. I like the idea of a clean 1/8” gap. Google results say 1/16” for decking with 4” boards.
  5. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    My welded in bed frame does that job and also has the four poly mount points which are the only places the bed touches any other part of the truck. The bed sides and inner tubs are welded to the bed frame. Before I added the bed floor frame the bed had to come on and off a few times and it was scary how much it flexed all over the place. Now it stays flat and the corners stay square. The frame is way stronger than it needs to be. This bed only needs strength as a platform not as reinforcement for anything else and will be 90% decorative but I will not hesitate to use it as a pickup truck. Or to take a nap next to my cooler!
  6. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I am conflicted about the 90° edge strips. I don’t want anything that tucks in except maybe on the bed front since I want to be able to remove the bed wood as a unit without disassembly. I don’t mind if it gets tight in humid months but I don’t want buckling, cupping, or gaps that will let anything like a ratchet strap S hook slip between. Maybe if I give 1/16” gaps on either side of my 1/4” bolts and base my gaps on butting the shovel strips into the milled corners of the boards then the 18g strips will flex a little if the boards swell? I don’t mind changing the look from stock but I want it to work. Didn’t brand X trucks not have angle strips or do I have that wrong? Thanks for all the feedback- there are some experienced and passionate woodworkers on here!
  7. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    The strips are from ‘classictruckbeds’ ebay seller. They are polished stainless and probably not correct dodge profile but I’m going for ‘looks right’ not correct. Since I only needed four strips it cost a similar amount from most sellers but this one had 80” strips sold in any amount. Shipping is the killer on the long package.
  8. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Thinking about how to do the rear wear cap. I want the whole slab to be a unit that can be removed or propped up like a hood for a battery change. I plan on four hold down D rings or maybe just three- two in front and a central one in the back for lifting with the hoist. These would bolt to the bed frame for strength. I think I have a racing power disconnect on the shelf somewhere that would make a good interruptor for the ground terminal- that way I can have a double secret kill switch and also an emergency way to easily disconnect the tucked away battery in case of fire or maintenance. The front cap I’m thinking just painted 16g lip of sheetmetal to keep stuff from rolling between the wood and bed, but I don’t know. Hafta see how it will fit with the bed stamping. I could even get nuts and put in a minivan tailgate ram or two and hinge the front...
  9. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Sounds like I’d be happy with either product. I’ll have to see if the good cetol is available in PA or what I can get locally. Another factor might be what colors (or ‘clear’ no color) are available. With the red gut I wouldn’t mind going a little toward a warm reddish brown but not ronald mcdonald red. The local exotic hardwood sawmill spot only had really wide boards so it cost $50 more than I wanted and of course it was only in 10’ pieces so I have some drops to make shelves for my wife or something for xmas. Looking at all the wood in the bed I have two pieces that are kinda bookmatched and out of the remaining 3 one that’s a little darker than the others. The math works out to 54” wide with 1/4” bolts, 2 skinny boards at 10” and three wide ones at 11”. I have to get the shovel strips in the mail friday or next week before I can mill out the board corners but I can get the widths lengths and do the reliefs for the wheelwells in the meantime. I am hoping the ipe will be pretty stable and won’t buckle if I butt it right up to the 1/4” bolts I’m using? I plan to rip the center board last to get a comfortably snug but not overly tight side to side fit. I’m thinking about capping the front with a sheetmetal angle and the rear with a more durable chunk of angle iron. The sides I want to just butt to the bedsides and tubs.
  10. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Hmm now I’m just more confused- the sikkens has mixed reviews on amazon and elsewhere because they also sell some reduced emissions amd water based versions that suck and dry slowly or not well. I also read that the cetol lasts much much longer but doesn’t age gracefully.
  11. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Thanks Los! I’ll check it out. Here’s a pic of what I’m working with. I just put it in and walked on it- it has a very little flex but not much. It should be good for hauling a harley sportster but maybe not a full dress electraglide.
  12. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Oh and the other thing I’m researching is the wood finish. I know I need to do the waxy endgrain sealer as soon as I cross cut the boards but I’m a little conflicted about the actual finish. Penofin was suggested earlier and it looks super nice but by all internet accounts it loses its beauty in 6 months and will start to gray out after a year. It won’t be much work to powerwash the gray off and re-oil every 9 months or so but I don’t know if I want to commit to that. It also is pretty stable in it’s gray state so I can just let that happen if I like it? Or since the sun is what kills the color and UV protection I can get away with refinishing without disassembly as the bottoms sides and parts hidden under the strips will both still be protected and not show anyway? I guess I’ll get the penofin and see how it does
  13. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I got three ipe boards my buddy was saving for me today- 1’x1”x8’. Boy they’re heavy! I’m hoping my torquey big block can use the help with traction- no need for a bag of sand in the bed with this heavy bed wood. My bed is 6’ 7” long by 4’ 6” wide so I need to cut the three boards down and get two more boards. Unfortunately I can only get 10’ lengths and they’re like $80 each! Still not bad on total price for exotic hardwood since 3/5ths was free. I have a couple friends with tablesaws and I have a router and sanders so the tools are covered. I got my stainless hardware in the mail but not the stainless strips yet. I’m still getting my plan of attack ready. I think I’ll fit the side boards around the wheel wells first then sneak up on a good fit side to side with all 5 boards using the bolts hanging down from washers for shims, then mill out the pockets for strips last. I got stainless 1/4”x20 wide low profile head flat head screws instead of carriage bolts & nylock nuts. The last board will need a helper to install but I won’t have to file a hundred square holes in my strips and no stock punched strips would work in my custom application. The frame I made for my bed floor is not well supported in the middle because I made it so that the floor would float less than 1/2” over the truck framerails. The whole bed is mounted with 4 poly body mounts- my goal was no squeaks or rattles which is the exact opposite of how it was as a survivor farm truck. I’m hoping to use a thick strap under a central row of strip bolts, then use the bed floor frame I made instead of additional crossmembers. It is .120” wall 1” square which is way overkill (I want to occasionally haul a couch but won’t be loading up bessie the moo cow in my hotrod) so I think it will be fine to just drill and tap it for the strip bolts. Mainly I am counting on the 1” thick ipe to be pretty stable and strong so I can span that unsupported central area and also so I can use less than the factory amount of strip bolts. Four strips will be pretty managable compared to stock too. I plan to do the front and back hold downs through the bed frame, the central strap to stabilize and share strength through the span, and two rows of floating pincher bolts with fender washers underneath. At least that’s the plan for now...
  14. Radarsonwheels

    1956 C30 Build

    Here ya go. It’s a corvette style dual diaphram booster off ebay that came with a bracket and swinging pedal for the inside of the firewall. My firewall is not stock but I originally put this same setup in this truck back when it was on it’s 54 chassis with the flatty- search my threads from like a year/year and a half ago-ish? The key is the dual diaphram booster it’s much smaller diameter and worked fine with whatever vacuum my hotrod 230 flathead made. There is a lot of room to put it where you want under the hood but I did extend my toe board up and make more room before the pedal is floored- a smaller bore master will have better feel but need more travel. Fingers crossed the big stroker idles tame enough to suck on the booster but I can always go manual brakes if I have to later. I welded the stock 54 brake pedal pad onto the bottom of the aftermarket pedal arm so if would look right in the old truck. I might be welding a wide pad on it like an L now so that it reaches under the column more- the new hacked firewall didn’t have much room so I put the pedal swinging to the outside of the column instead of to the right and it fits because there is no clutch pedal but it feels a little far left to hit with my right foot. Likewise when the floor/tunnel is done I wanna tweak the gas over to the right some more.

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