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Radarsonwheels last won the day on July 11

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

1,197 profile views
  1. I had aluminum line on a hotrod. The new gas would strip out the aluminum and deposit it in my carburetor- it looked like dried elmers glue. It pissed me off constantly and would clog my needle and seat making the float bowls dump into the intake at idle. Braided stainless rubber lines fixed it. Now I use steel line with pico clamps and make bubble flares at the ends to secure fuel injection hose and clamps. The EFI hose is a little more $ but holds up better and doesn’t collapse over time.
  2. Even better than just not unhooking it would be to see if it wanders at idle. Check the timing at idle with and without vacuum and if you have a little mity-vac pistol grip hand pump bleeder thing you can hook that up and take a piece of paper and plot the vac.advance curve as you add more vacuum to the line. I had one that was right on the edge of advancing at 750ish rpm- when the idle dropped a little the vacuum would drop a little and then the timing would drop a little and not allow the idle to recover then it would blubber and want to die.
  3. *not if you are here in a mobile phone. You gotta be on a desktop to see some of the board features.
  4. She’s a beauty! I’m guessing the super tall fleetside bed is an aussie thing? I’ve heard of ute’s but always pictured more like an s10 or elcamino
  5. Looks cherry! I applaud your ambition- I thought mine was too far gone to restore or else I wouldn’t have butchered it. Post some progress shots when you start gettin into it, and good luck!
  6. I think the confusion is where your rack is mointed- if it’s on the axle you for sure need a long slip joint that is greased and strong- you’re depending on that flat to steer and there’s no weld or cotter pins. If it’s a power rack you will probably be ok but manual and parallel parking (steering while stopped) will stress it. Good luck! radar
  7. That’s a nope. 70’s cars with ballast resistors had a 12v startup circuit but it had to drop down to 6ish or it cooks the coil.
  8. Thanks man It makes doing the dishes more fun with a nice view! I bolted up the troublesome passenger side header collector and that job sucked. If I ever take off these headers to make a new set I will make the collectors bolt up in a better spot. The passenger side is all locked in with three fancy ‘stage-8’ bolts, tabs, & locks. The driver’s side is a nightmare to reach and still holding tight with normal hardware so that side gets a ‘maybe later’ 😉
  9. Darn collector bolts loosened up again! The passenger side lost two nuts and sounded a little extra cackly last night when I was hotrodding around. It didn’t come loose enough to backfire on decel but this is the second go-around with these things. I never tried the stage-8 locking deals but they make a collector bolt setup that has tab nuts so once you start the threads you can just tighten the bolt with one wrench. That should be super helpful in my tight bay. Other than that I’ve really been enjoying the truck. My wife traded in her camry for a v6 charger- now my driveway is home to fourteen hundred and twenty two cubic inches of mopar power!
  10. Enjoy it man those parts will never be this clean again
  11. After a week or so driving them the new shocks are a huge improvement. I have them set at ten clicks out of a possible 18 front and back on compression and the double adjustable fronts are set at 5 on rebound to try for a compromise between launching and cornering. I think I will stiffen them up some more until it gets harsh then back them off a little. My new wiper arm/blades came in a few weeks ago and wouldn’t you know the angle adjustment went bonkers the first rainstorm and made them unusable. There’s a small screw that looks like it would set the angle but it barely holds it at rest. Today I took them off planning to solder or braze them and decided to just crimp/swage the adjusters in my big vice. Now the angle is permanantly set and I didn’t even have to burn up the chrome with a torch.
  12. Agreed. I ran plenty of motors that used a quart per thousand miles or so and I was happy to add oil once in a while. Now when gas station stops involve checking the gas and adding oil, or when 1/2 throttle results in a spy hunter smokescreen behind you then maybe it’s time for a teardown. My best advice is drive it like you stole it for a while and see if things clear up some.
  13. I woke up early and got whittling on my lower control arms to fit the new shocks with 2” bodies and 2 knobs sticking off. The cutting template I made was perfect but needed a little extra due to the angle of the LCA so that the top rod would line up and go home. My first ride it seems much better. It corners flatter, takes bumps a little more firmly, and even does a little mini understated nose lifting 90/10 action with the rear single adjustables set 10 clicks from zero and the rear adjustables set 10 compression and 5 on extension. There are 18 positions on the adjustment knobs. I need a bunch more seat time but I’m psyched. I hate having expensive parts sitting around waiting to be installed.
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