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Radarsonwheels

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    238
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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist

Converted

  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

455 profile views
  1. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Thanks! I used a stub of oem dipstick filled with silicone. I left just enough nub that I’ll be able to yank it if I ever want to (dunno why I would?). My rear sump offroad pan is an older one the screw in dipstick is on the passenger side. The pics of a similar pan on summit etc show a driver’s side bung on the pan. My pan also doesn’t seal the stock dipstick hole so it did need a plug. I’m playing with gauge ideas today. I would like modern gauges to protect my investment in the motor but I definitely want a vintage look. Here’s a mockup- it doesn’t get much more reliable than autometer. Mechanical Oil psi, electric water temp, mechanical speedo/odo.
  2. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I had a 950 classic hp series double pumper main body laying around so I rebuilt it and got a guess at a baseline tune for a big huge street motor- I used the stock rear metering block and a 750dp front block with timed vacuum for my distributor. I don’t know how much mechanical advance is in this distributor or if I will wind up welding up slots in it to get a decent amount of initial timing. Hopefully the inches will eat up enough duration to idle well with whatever I end up with. Carb settings 6.5 power valves 79 primary and 80 secondary mains IFRs slightly restricted with wire for clean cruising idle screws 1.5 turns out floats set new diaphrams in acc pumps, 37 squirters and pink cams on #1 hole. stock air bleeds The classic HP carbs are the old style that don’t have the idle-eze valve or billet metering blocks but they can still be tuned with wires or drilled for jets in the IFRs and PVCRs. Plus I didn’t have to spend any money!
  3. Radarsonwheels

    Cabbage Hauler - WD-21 Build Thread

    That’s what I did. $40 or so in 2x4s and allthread worked great but my truck floor was soggy. Your solution is awesome using the stock body mounts to lift it! Just gotta put the doors on last...
  4. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Oh man I am happy to have the front suspension rebuild almost done. Passenger side bushings need a final torque at ride height and the balljoints need grease but it’s sitting back down on new springs shocks bushings and balljoints.
  5. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I think I got it. Man when you make this stuff up as you go along you sure can run into hornet’s nests of arcane knowledge. I’ve built motors and fixed & restored cars but this re-engineering every system in the truck is a learning experience! At least I kept the stock front suspension and steering geometry. Just replacing all the bushings and springs and ball joints is plenty of work. When the factory made the female stub on the bottom of the column U-joint it was a full 3/4” round for a couple inches before they formed flats in it for the female DD socket. When I shortened the column’s female stub I left just enough of that formed female DD section that it would key to my new 3/4” DD shaft and automatically index to proper phase- or so I naively thought. Turns out that phasing made the first two joints like the red/green in my above post’s diagram. I’m thinking the best solution is to cut off the formed female section of DD. Then I can re-orient the male shaft and weld and pin it 90° from it’s current position. I found more online about the out of phase on purpose thing- read a ton of hamb posts, parts manufacturer tech bullitins and FAQs, and even a patent proposal for a computer program to determine the optimal offset out of phase. It seems this is done to correct a situation where the column and steering box input’s vectors are not exactly parallel. One manufacturor of splined U-joints suggested just trying clocking the splines a few out of phase to correct a notchy feel. The one I screen shot and pasted above the red/green illustration from a different source says “15° to 45°”. I’m going to twist that DD bar 90° and cross my fingers that it is all close enough to feel good on the road and have decent feedback. I have no idea how many turns I have lock to lock or if the dakotas were over assisted with one finger steering effort like the 70s mopars I’ve had. Sorry for all the wordy thinking out loud and thanks again for helping out.
  6. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Thanks Bisquik- that might be the way to go? Or maybe it’s ok? Hafta mess with it more. Once I make a plate so the bottom of the column can bolt solid to the firewall I’ll really be able to see and feel how it acts before I finish making my connections. On mine I will be pinning and welding into the stock stubs as well, leaving one disconnect at the top of the new U-joint for disassembly or rod end replacement. I’m still claiming victory for getting the idler bracket fabricated and getting all the working angles as obtuse as possible, but I have more questions than answers about will this work...
  7. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Ok so I google-fu’d this- maybe I’m ok but I should probably figure out if the new u-joint needs to be turned 90°
  8. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Wierd! Good eye fellas thanks for watching my back! I didn’t even notice that or think to check- DD rod can only get installed one way right?! I went out and took pics and found one of the stock dakota setup- turns out it was 45° out on the stock dakota. Hafta ask ma mopar about that head scratcher. Here’s a pic stitch- the original column and linkage on the left, two details of the suspect 45° DD clocked isolator with u-joint and female rack and pinion shaft splines, then the stuff I added plugged into to the column which is 90° out- dunno if that needs fixing. So all I changed was to bend the routing around the header- the phase is still the same as it was stock on the 1989 dakota. Which isn’t to say that I have it all figured out and it’s fine! I didn’t even think to look at the phase but now I’m just confused. I understood the concept in the video already but it is a really good demonstration. I need to take this question to some folks that are smartener than me. Y’all definitely qualify if anybody has guesses or knowledge. You’re certainly better observationalyzers!
  9. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Also my moog springs came in. The first side was a pain to install- the spring compressor kept getting in the way and it was too long to just pry into the relaxed lower control arm. I ended up squeezing it up into the spring pocket using the spring compressor through the upper shock hole, going back and forth jacking up the UCA and compressing the spring until it popped home. Even with it strapped to the chassis and me safely away from it I didn’t like how the compressor slipped free when it popped home. With the truck set down on one old spring and shock and one new spring and shock I jumped on it a bunch to settle and test it. It is a touch higher on the new side but way stiffer in a good way! The passenger side is now safely disassembled and I get to clean and re-bush and ball joint the control arms. Of course the lower ball joint stud didn’t pop free of the knuckle until I warmed it with the ox/a torch. I made a pickle fork into a banana trying to pop it. The upper ball joint was the same as the other side- torched rippin hot and 6 foot breaker bar to budge it. So the steering shaft and column is all scienced out and the suspension rebuild is 3/4 done- it seems like I didn’t get much done but it was a pretty good day.
  10. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Well there is not a lot of room around the steering shaft and support but I got a bracket welded in solid after making sure the motor has room to shake, the suspension has room to be aligned, the control arm has room to articulate, and the shafts spin smoothly and freely with no binding. The support bearing can even be adjusted up and down it doesn’t just work in one sweet spot.
  11. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    The column will be a little higher at the firewall than in this mockup so the angles will be even better but this is the general idea.
  12. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    For sure! The column will be coming up a little more in the firewall when it’s done and the joints will all be inside their recommended 35°. Definitely a wise idea to make sure it is all smooth before I get happy with the welder.
  13. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I ground down a boss on the side of the block so the driver’s side header could sit flat and also made some more progress on the steering today. I got the column stripped down and shaved, put it basically where it will go and discovered a 2 1/2” exhaust U-bolt fit the stock column drop holes perfectly. I debated a little about whether to cut down the steering column because the stock ‘54 hole aimed it too far down into the control arm pivot. Then I ended up just cutting the hole a little bit higher. This did tip the wheel a little more vertical and lost some crotch room but the smaller wheel made it no problem. The mocked up bench seat frame seems just about right sitting on top of wood 4”x4”s over the floor frame. The wheel position feels good with one arm out the window or regular 10:00 and 2:00 driving. Now the column needs a sheetmetal plate welded to it that will sit against the firewall and set the final depth, the 3/4 double D shaft to be welded to the upper steering tube, and a support bearing set up off the frame that holds the DD shaft steady to keep the triple universal jointed shaft from flopping around. The interior is soo far away from done but the mock up is encouraging. I might have even made screeching tire noises when I sat behind the wheel for the first time.
  14. Radarsonwheels

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    I loved the stock schoolbus wheel but I won’t need the leverage with power rack & pinion. This one is pretty small. I’m hoping it’ll free up some room in the smallish cab without looking dinky or 3/4 of the way to a tiny welded chain one like Cheech.
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