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About Radarsonwheels

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

260 profile views
  1. 1949 Dodge 230 straight six carburetor

    I have a weber 32/36 clone on my 230 from langdon's stovebolt- it starts instantly like fuel injection and the power and drivability are awesome. I had a lot of old junk that if I drove it to work it was too much trouble to crank up and warm up to grab lunch or run an errand real quick but my truck with that carb on it is fantastic!
  2. Timing to retarded or not.

    I agree. It must be the case that some parts were definitely specified for a specific vehicle and I'm sure that if you call dana or spicer and order eighteen thousand rear axles they will build them to whatever length and ring gear diameter you want. GE probably sold a kabillion 7" headlights to the big 3. Mustangs and barracudas had kelsey hayes four pot brakes. Some stuff definitely adds to the personality of operating a vehicle- mopar engines and transmissions are not negotiable for me but my 73 swinger has fiat spyder buckets in it and they look good. For other people they need to see the M on each bolt head. I wish I had that kind of time and money! Throw up some pictures and then people that read this can be sickened by actual mopar blasphemy instead of the idea of it. Or even maybe say hey that looks great! Rdr
  3. Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    It's all installed! The front axle is in and I even drove it around the block once before my fuel pump died! It felt much tighter and drove straight despite a rough one man driveway toe setting. I thought it'd raise the front more than it did so I'm happy!
  4. New dodge truck owner

    Forgot to say- you can usually get headlight style mushroom pull switches pretty cheap at pep boys or whatever- they look close to the metal mushroom type pull knobs on the old truck dashbords. That would work in the meantime while you wait for original parts or just work in general with no cutting anything up. I have mine wired so the first detent is fuel pump & brake lights, the second detent adds in headlights and tail lights. Power to it and the coil is on a keyswitch.
  5. New dodge truck owner

    Keeping these trucks original is super cool but I went 12 volt and put in an alternator. Any kind of switch with a key or not can work as an ignition. Mine has a standard auto/marine keyswitch I just don't use the spring loaded momentary start function since the starter is foot actuated. good luck!
  6. Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    Thanks Frank! I like the off white 'cool vanilla'! My plan was gloss cream but too many people have told me their favorite touch is the grille patina and for now I dig it too. It took me a long time to find that grille and that is just how it looked when I got it. The bottom bar is actually a different color than the top and it has some waves and dents. I think if I ever get the body decently straight I will take another look at painting the DODGE in the tailgate and the grille bars in a creamy vanilla off white. I'd have to do some hammer and dolly and plastic work on the one bar first. That is a beautiful car! I lent out my b-series Bunn book but I thought my hood ornament was a '51 pickup truck ornament. Mine was missing some of the dodge letters and the cool circular badge was missing too. The ram is cool, looks right to a casual observer, and was cheap at a swap meet! I have been thinking about using harley fender spears (lower edge front fender trim) to finish the rear of the ornament but I'm afraid of festooning my classic simple truck with too much shiny junk before it's actually even straight. I'll probably leave it as is. eh... late night dinner digestion rambling. So here's a picture of the new kingpins installed and the axle painted and ready to install. G'nite!
  7. Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    You bet I did! That silver stuff is the best! And I certainly will report back about how all this long overdue maintenance affects the ride. I'm hoping it will be a noticable improvement. These kind of specialized forums are great for getting advice and help with problems, but they are also important for us as a place to brag about our minor victories and lament our defeats. I have a good number of friends that wrench on a lot of stuff from harleys to 1/4 milers and street freaks but almost none of them have tried to pound a kingpin out of a dodge straight axle. Thanks for making me feel welcome here.
  8. Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    The machine shop is done with my axle! It now has new kingpins and bushings installed, with everything clean and ready for paint. With a little luck I hope to have it picked up, brought home, painted, and drying before I have to go to work at the crack of noon tomorrow. In other news I got ready to crack the tie rod ends loose before the axle came home so I can set toe. I was ready for a fight! I had a bfh and a long bar and a torch lined up and ready by my large pipe vice. I'm convinced all this preparation is why after a brief soak in pb blaster I loosened the pinch bolts and effortlessly unscrewed both sides using my bare hands! I'm still waiting on my new bearings and drag link in the mail, and I'm going to need front tires due to dryrot. I also suspect my stance will change now that my shackles are working and the rear spring eyes will no longer be sitting on the frame. Anyway I'm excited- major progress!
  9. Timing to retarded or not.

    I have been through this on the slant sixes- I didn't know the old flatheads had the same system? Mine has a langdon's hei on it now that my buddy put on when he owned the truck and when I had it before that it was close enough that I just fine tuned. My experience with this is on the 70's dodge inline 6s. The small blocks have a flathead screwdriver type distributor drive so it's either right or 180° out, so the straight 6's distributor drive was a head scratcher at first. Hopefully it is a similar process on the flatty. When installing the distributors I try to get the rotor aimed at the proper tower and still have enough adjustment to twist in my setting. The problem is I had to remove the distributor to access the slotted hold down plate. If you work from the bottom of the distributor you'll see the plate itself can be clocked around the distributor. On the slant6 the distributor gear is helical and twists the rotor as it slides home so there is a lot of messing around trying to aim it at the proper tower to get a baseline before final setting and tuning. It is sometimes possible to get where you need to be by moving over a tooth, if not then you have to re-clock the hold down plate to the distributor body. My solution was to get the underneath bolt snug but not tight so the plate could still be clocked to the distributor while installed. Then it can be removed and would not easily move before you get the plate fully torqued to the distributor. If you got it right then it will be good enough to start up and have plenty of adjustment using just the bolt into the block. repeated disclaimer: this is based on experience with later mopar- I hope it helps! radar
  10. 1952 disc break conversion

    I love my disc kit from him!
  11. Shade Tree Wrenching on a C-series 3/4 ton

    I have some new progress for this build thread! Thanks to all for the help along the way lately. I am hopefully on my way to having a truck that goes straight and doesn't hop sideways when you hit a bump. She's getting new kingpins, bushings, and shackles, with new tie rod ends and drag link to tighten everything up even more. The rear upper shackle bushings in the frame fought me really hard coming out, but good prep work and a dab of axle grease made hanging the new shackles and springs a pleasure, even outside in this summer heat. My axle is at the machine shop getting the kingpins done and I will start bothering them again on Friday if I don't hear back. Next thing while I'm waiting is to remove the drag link and tie rod ends, and maybe sandblast and paint the spindle brackets and whatnot from the pitman arm on back.
  12. Carter B&B carburetors type help all this forum please.

    Oh man when I first got my truck I bought a few gasket kits and none was correct. I ended up making my own paper gaskets and even a leather one for the plunger. I got her running well but the progressive carb I have off of langdon's website starts up like a fuel injected car and has the best drivability out of an aftermarket carb I've ever used. Sorry I don't have better ball&ball info. If you search my username radarsonwheels and ball & ball you could quite possibly run into some of my forum hunts from back then- you might find some leads that way. Good luck in your search and sorry I wasn't more help- I don't think I was hip to this incredible knowledge base here yet back then though!
  13. Steering parts nomenclature and availability?

    I went ahead and bought a nos moog piece off ebay for $100. In my experience with modern vintage replacement parts the originals lasted 30 years and the new ones last a year if you're lucky. At least that's true with anchor motor mounts for 70s dodges. The most expensive moog USA product line seems to hold up well but even the brand name imported parts look like junk nowadays. An extra $30-40 is cheap piece of mind for me- buy once cry once isn't too hard at $100. Thanks fellas for the help knowing the names of what I'm looking for!
  14. Steering parts nomenclature and availability?

    Aha! I suspected I had it backwards. Now to find a new drag link!
  15. Howdy I've been posting a lot lately- thanks to all here for the help and patience. I'm getting ready to re-install my axle whenever it's done at the machine shop and I've purchased tie rod ends so I can set my toe with all new parts. Most of my experience is with muscle car era stuff so I might have the names wrong for the parts I have here. So the knuckles/spindles have a bracket bolted to them- the driver's side connects to the steering box's arm- what is this connection called and how/where do I buy new ball joint/rod end spherical bushing links for it? Then there is the long rod that connects the driver's side spindle to the passenger side. It gets it's length adjusted to set toe. In a muscle car it'd be the drag link but since there's no pitman or idler here I am willing to admit I know nothing. In conclusion- where do I get new wear parts inbetween the steering box and the driver's knuckle, and what is everything called? thanks and sorry for the kindergarten questions Kevin