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Radarsonwheels last won the day on August 29

Radarsonwheels had the most liked content!

About Radarsonwheels

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bucks County PA
  • Interests
    I like loud dangerous steel things
  • My Project Cars
    '86 ramcharger '73 swinger '54 3/4 ton

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Ex-Harley wrench
  • Occupation
    Commercial artist


  • Location
    Levittown PA
  • Interests
    Wrenching, drawing on people

Recent Profile Visitors

1,275 profile views
  1. Got the new headlight installed. High beams were more like barely adequate low beams in dark areas before but I mostly have streetlights around here. Can’t aim em in the daytime so I just gave each one 3.5 turns in to tilt up on the adjusters. They’ll either be fine or I will be aiming them at the garage doors to adjust them tonight or soon if it rains like it’s supposed to today. The fuel pumps are happy again with the correct polarity wired into the lift pump and it’s such a relief to not worry about the low hanging pump any more. I will probably end up making a piece of hard line to finish the 180° turn from the lift pump to the surge tank. It has plenty of room for a decent radius and I used stiffer fuel injection rated hose secured with heavy zipties and heater hose insulation at the rub point but steel line will give peace of mind that it won’t ever kink with age. It does mean two more hose clamped connections (possible leak points) but with bubble flares used as hose barb flanges I am confident in my plumbing. I did a photoshop mockup of the aftermarket bolt on aluminum louver panels. I don’t hate it but I think it smacks of boy racer pep boys double stick tape accessories a little bit? Right now the leading plan is to get louvers punched similar to Oil Soup’s but maybe with one more short row on the sides. The idea of an outside row appeals to me visually but if it would send dirt and water directly onto my wiring harness and electrical accessories on the inner fender that might be a reason to skip a 3rd row. I’m thinking more oldschool rounded louvers, probably 3” would look best? The school locker flat style I’m thinking would look out of place on a round hood. I also don’t want too many so it ends up looking like a wood rasp. It will be kind of involved because I have to scrape 10 yr old dynamat off the insides that has been heat cycled a lot (a cold day would help a lot for that), temporarily slice off the inner reinforcements, and disassemble the butterfly hinges, not to mention sanding off the paint, driving an hour each way to drop them off, and repainting them. I am still not opposed to installing some kind of bolt on vent. Maybe not the bolt on louvers but lots of muscle cars etc. had cool looking chrome vents of different styles. I would love to see or hear suggestions if y’all can think of any cars with cool mesh vents or chrome pieces that would look at home as much as possible. Swap meet or vintage ebay pieces maybe? Something a little worn but not too beat up in case I ever finish the bodywork and paint on the old girl. Definitely in the vein of 50s mix n match oem brand kustoms not some modern high tech stuff. Anyway here’s the photoshop mockup for a laugh.
  2. I used to enjoy watching the ‘guitarologist’ on youtube he has a lot of tube amp repair videos on there. Mostly fixing bad connections, replacing caps & resistors. I never dove in that deep but I enjoyed learning about them.
  3. Wow that looks awesome! The hood is easy enough to remove- I’ll put out feelers and see who can do it around Philly
  4. File under ‘genius moves’- I managed to wire the lift pump backwards! I went to buy gas and get groceries (5-10 min drive) and had an off idle hesitation once on the way there. Uh oh that never happened before! When I got to the store I let it idle and checked the fuel pressure gauge on the firewall. It was swinging from 60-70 psi. It’s supposed to be 62 but always ran at a solid 70, probably because my return line is marginal. 70 works fine though and you can reset the working inlet pressure in the ECU to the actual reading which I did awhile back. I felt the surge tank- should be cool but it was warm. Hmm must be sucking on the regulator return from the hot engine bay instead of being constantly filled and cycled by the lift pump. It actually ran really well on the way home but when I parked it and shut down I cycled the key to hear the pumps and they sounded wrong & struggly. More investigation looking for a kinked hose or backward wiring quickly revealed the problem. Hopefully I didn’t do any damage running the pumps dry but I think I’m ok. On an unrelated topic the gas pump math said I’m right around 6mpg haha not bad for almost all stoplight hotrodding!
  5. Thanks Bisquik! It’s a carter deadhead carb style pump that feeds high volume low pressure to the surge tank so the EFI pump won’t ever run dry. The surge tank overflows back into the main fuel cell along with the return from the regulator from the throttle body. Mine has little rubber isolators which definitely help some with the noise. I have had the big holley pumps on muscle cars before and they are louder. Kind of reminiscent of the buzzer on a high school basketball scoreboard! I’m spoiled with this holley efi setup. It cycles the pumps for five seconds or so in the run position, gives a little shot to wet the intake for startup, then turns off until you crank it. Once my motor is dumping out of dual 3.5” flowmasters under the bed the pump noise is not so noticable 😂 I like the carter pumps too though I’ve had a bunch of them and never ran WOT for long enough on the street to outflow one. here’s a pic of how it was before- it was hanging pretty low
  6. I wonder if somebody local can punch louvers in my hood or if it makes more sense to try to find a weld in panel. I’d rather leave the hood stock but it gets rippin hot in there. Anyway here’s pics from today’s fun
  7. I finally got around to relocating my lift pump for the surge tank. I had made a bracket that put the inlets and outlets all inline with short rubber connections from the lift pump to the surge tank inlet and out the other side of the surge tank to the high pressure pump. The problem was that while the 70psi EFI pump is an inline canister style the lift pump hangs down from the in and out barbs with the wiring connections even lower hanging off the bottom. Once I set the truck back on its wheels the rear (lift) pump was the lowest part of the rear of the truck. I’ve driven carefully and it was fine but if it did catch some road debris or a tall manhole next to a pothole it would at least scrape the wires off it and at worst make a leak in a place where the entire tank could siphon out. No bueno. It’s been really nagging me to do it but I had to disconnect the hoses which want to dump the entire tank, cut off the bracket without setting a fire, and find a new place for it to live with curvier plumbing. I got a big stainless drip pan, stuffed sparkplugs in the open hoses with minimal leakage, let it dry off, and sliced the bracket free with a sawsall and a ready fire extinguisher. Then I used the rear bumper bracket bolt to secure the pump bracket to the frame. Now it’s tucked nicely between the fuel cell and the passenger frame rail and the plumbing is all safely and securely re-done. I have also been procrastinating about my headlights- the driver’s bulb is defective (sealed 7” beam but the inner bulb is dripping down inside the body and doesn’t shine much light) and they are both aimed way low. So I took the lazy way out and ordered one new bulb. My instinct is to swap the pair but the good one doesn’t have a lot of hours on it. When the new one comes in I’ll swap it out and aim them both a little higher. I drove it to work Saturday. The brakes seem 100% again but I’m flirting with the idea of some louvers in the hood to let some heat out. Maybe the switch was cheaply made or defective but all that heat in there can’t be a good thing.
  8. I love that exhaust note! But leave the spinners off. They take away from the spoke mags
  9. Wow! I always said if I had started with a 53 I would have cut 3-4” yours looks great! I’d love to see some progress shots. Did the roof have to get bigger?
  10. Good luck with the switch and the sale! Is it an original setup? Or modernized
  11. Mine looks different from those! looking at the bunn books I always thought of mine as a sort of 1953 1/2. Like an early C series. But it’s also a 3/4 ton so that had some different options I’d imagine? This is the best pic I could find on my phone and it’s dark out. Sorry the visor covers the stalk- it’s pretty plain but the top bracket is kinda spectacular I really like it. Seems like once every few years I think I’ll unscrew it to really clean it up nicely and that’s when I remember it doesn’t want to be unscrewed and leave well enough alone.
  12. Let some juice out thru the front calipers. Pedal feels good. Probably test it out later tonite we have a little heatwave today in the 90°s and I’d rather run errands in air conditioning.
  13. I filled the brake light switch body with brake fluid to hopefully avoid a pesky air pocket and screwed it in. I’m not sure which circuit feeds the switch with pressure- the aftermarket prop block also handles splitting duties for the front brake lines. Maybe any air trapped behind the switch can make its way back up to the MC with a little time and tapping? I am going to gravity bleed the front system a bit and see if the pedal feels good. I don’t know if wrapping the switch in a blanket will help much- it’s not reflected heat from being near the headers I’m worried about- more like the oven temps of the engine bay in general. If this one fails in another 500mi I’ll have to look into either a mechanical switch on the pedal arm or re-locating an electric pressure switch to somewhere cooler. I am hoping the original was just poor quality. Here’s the new one installed with new spade connectors to replace the mushroom style slide on clip.
  14. Thanks man the full manual valvebody helps I can always downshift to fender bender speeds but yeah nobody feels great when the big pedal goes to the metal
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