Busted_Knuckles

Whats a fair price for a heater box assembly these days

Have a question for you truck guys, I have a front axle from a 1950 B1 in my 48 Plymouth Gasser would anyone be able to tell me the part numbers of the inner and outer bearings? I need the dimensions so I can figure out and adapter for the hubs the former owner used. 

Thanks

Thanks supposedly they're oem Plymouth

Ok so that would be a no on my fender skirts fitting a Desoto thanks the funny thing is I looked them up for the guy on a site that sells skirts and mine look more like Desoto skirts than Plymouth no bulge in the front lower corners

Would anyone know if 47 Plymouth rear fenders are the same as 47 DeSoto rear fenders? They sure look like they are but I can't be sure.

Thanks for the help

Would anyone have or know where I can find factory dimensions of a 48 coupe chassis, I am building my own chassis and I need factory specs to verify my stock frame. When I bought the car I quickly found out the front crossmember was rotted and not worth repairing, when I cut the front section off for the front suspension components that I sold to a member here literally pounds of rust came pouring out. I cannot believe how thin the frame rails are, yes they're boxed but I haven't put a caliper on it yet but i'm guessing somewhere around 16 gauge  and it that wasn't bad enough the X member was missing so I can't be sure the frame hasn't twisted. I scrapped that stupid idea of using an S10 frame because it was beyond dumb. So any help you guys can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dats it, thanks

Doe sit look like one side is rusted off?

Would anyone be able to tell me what the piece located right above the grill that connects the two front fenders is called? 

I need one don't ask what happened to mine, but I am in need of one so maybe with the proper name my search will have better results

Thanks for looking

Yeah they do seem like an odd item much like the rest of the car. I may just donate mine when I am done using the center of the frame 

Does anyone sell the frame tabs for mounting the body, met a guy who bought some parts from me and I am going to help him with his build unfortunately his frame tabs are in pretty rough shape, I could make some but in the interest of saving time I'd just like to replace the originals 

5 minutes ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said:

Thats all great BN.

Your car had been worked over and engine gone etc.

So why not engine swap or even frame swap. 

Negativity on this topic, yes you will find a large majority on this site want stock flathead drivetrains.

Heck why wouldn't they, this web forum was created to promote the flathead 6 engine.

While they tolerate and even welcome modifications, expect not to have SBC transplants overly warmly welcomed.

Its like on the HAMB cars newer than 1964 and other topics that are off topic or against the website rules Ryan will lock or delete at the drop of a hat.

This site is pretty tolerant on V8 swaps, mods made with modern non mopar parts etc.

But its still a Mopar flathead 6 forum at the end of the day.

People can build and modify their cars as they choose and see fit. Just don't expect to get everyone agreeing with your choices, your likes and dislikes.

I looked into A: finding a stock frame and the only decent one without inspecting it was in Texas so shipping was cost prohibitive, B: I was offered a 6 cyl for free with a transmission but after looking into to rebuild cost of parts alone exceeded the cost of parts for two SBC engines C: Reliability/parts availability I drive everything I build and not to just the local cruise nights but to major events across the country so I'm in Salina Kansas let's say and a fuel pump gives up the ghost what's the likelihood of a local NAPA or O'Reilly etc. having a pump on the shelf for a 1948 6cyl Plymouth vs a SBC. D: Upgrading in technology IE: disc brakes ride and handling stock 48 chassis vs S10 to upgrade the 48 P15 chassis to disc brakes, R&P steering, better ride(shock modification) having a set of ring & pinion gears cut for the P!5 would be astronomical vs using an S10 all off the shelf components at a fraction of the cost. I helped a friend swap  his body on to a Dakota chassis and he admitted it was a far better way to go in his opinion and that seeing the cost of what he has put out of pocket vs what I've spent the S10 was far more economical the S10 was the better choice.  All that being said I got a lot more negative feedback than positive. One is not just limited by his choices of what's available when building a car today but also by whats affordable the SBC for me is the most affordable way to go and thats coming from a guy with a running 392 & 426 Hemi sitting under a workbench in his shop. I put it all out on paper and crunched the numbers so many times I wore holes in the paper, like it or not the SBC is a far more economical, powerful reliable engine than the flat Plymouth 6 

I came across the same issues when I posted my thoughts about the same swap and got the same negativity, keep it all original 6 cyl bla bla bla well my car came with a Chevy 6 cylinder so much for originality. My frame was also rotted in key places and I condemned it  and decided on going with an S10 chassis mainly because of the cost factor and modern upgrades etc. I am going with a 4 speed behind my 355 SBC, why because I have a fresh one ready to go, just waiting on some pieces to come back from powder coat so I can do a final assemble, right now there is a mock up block resting in the frame. The great thing about the SBC is A its cost B everyone makes mounts, oil pans, headers etc. anything you may need for your swap. The ease of my choice of chassis is everything is the same as an 87 Camaro so if I want four wheel disc brakes I can shop for the best deal. One thing I will tell you is that it's not as bolt in as some say by that I mean you may encounter firewall clearance issues so I suggest removing the front clip even with a stock frame so you have plenty of room to maneuver and work in places that are normally not as accessible. Key things to remember are you need 4 degrees of down angle on the rear of the engine and four degrees of up angle on the rear end so you don't experience U joint binding. Speaking of rear ends if you are planning on using a stock P15 rear axle again limitations are the key factors.only two gear ratios were ever available and their tall like most old cars because those old cinder block 90hp 6 bangers didn't develop enough rpm's and torque to get them down the road so they had to make it up in gear ratio. So if you want to cruise on the highway and go places consider changing out the rear end. I did my research and I believe Butch's Cool Stuff (but don't quote me on that just yet) has a chart to tell you what fits what when it comes to swapping rear axles I was going with a rear from a Tri Five chevy which would have been an easy swap if you choose the route I planned. PM me anytime and I'll be glad to help u anyway I can

Well I hope your former owner wasn't a knucklehead like the guy who owned mine who decided to glue or shall I say cenet the windshield divider in place, guess how long it took before I heard the painful crack the glass is completely shot but still an awful sound

All the screws are out the track won't come free of the regulator 

Can anyone tell me how to get the rear window regulator out on my 48 P15 coupe? I separated the glass form the regulator and got it out in one piece and there are no bolts left in, the regulator moves but its got me stumped well for right now. I refrained from breaking out the plasma cutter to remove the bottom of that pocket. So any input would be appreciated. Haven't had the time to go do a search on how to yet.

Thanks 

 Do your old slow moving self a favor and buy a set of these.the life they save will be yours 

pflaming I had one semi advantage in that the ____________ who did the work didn't feel the need to tighten any of the bolt...... I mean some were practically finger tight. Good thing because when I get frustrated I  usually reach for the smoke wrench but it was at the other end of the shop so I opted for a milder approach.

DrDoctor I could have used a doctor this afternoon like my compadre I am no spring chicken either actually my chicken done sprung years ago. It is gratifying to make some progress even if it appears to be minor as long as I keep working on it and sticking with the plan. I read a post here where someone removed the shaft from the steering box but someone didn't give the guy on the  Plymouth assembly line  the memo. I tried everything to get that free form the box no way so my friend the 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel came to the rescue. I had someone interested in it but that never transpired. It's a very easy repair a lug inside the shaft and a few minutes with the Tig welder and it's better than new.

Obviously the work of a hack, I will make a replacement panel with an access hole and a rubber plug imagine that 

What was even more fun was when he welded panels over the back two bod bolts

10 hours ago, mrwrstory said:

On my P15, I found a body bolt at the rear passenger side at the top of the frame's arch, adjacent to the spare tire well.  "Twas non symmetrical with the rest of the car.  As I recall, there was an odd number of bolts.  All others seemed to be in a logical, symmetrical pattern.  If you find one on one side, look for an opposing one.

Good luck.

Pics please.

No the one on the passenger side was missing but on the drivers side some knucklehead siliconed a body mount bushing to the body and frame

I started removing the body on my 48 today and what a slipshod job, half the body bolts were either missing the nuts all were loose and I am almost positive the body bushings are not correct for my car. The one thing I noticed that looked out of place was on both sides there is a piece of 3/4" box tubing welding at an angle and it appears it was resting on the frame. Is this supposed to be there? I can't imagine what purpose they serve so if you know please enlighten me. 

Oh BTW I have all the bolts out ready to lift the car off the frame and wait I can't find the bolt heads for the two remaining bolts at the very back of the car, that because some one welded a panel over the top of them must have lost his job at NASA and went into repairing rust old cars

Thanks for the input.

I have all my projects media blasted, Dustless blasting is only good for removing paint, IT DOES NOT WORK ON RUST contrary to what they say. I've witnessed it with my  eyes. The guy was touting all its virtues and my friend said ok wait show us how well it works on his (mine) rusted 55 Chevy body, it doesn't.

Yes there is a chemical in it to prevent rust but then again there talking flash rust, if you strip the paint off a car and keep it inside it will last a long time before it starts to flash rust, there is a product called Gibbs used a lot by the custom car crowd who like to show their metal working skills off, it expensive but I have a fender sitting out in a shed sprayed with Gibbs for a year and a half and it hasn't rusted, but the easy fix is spray it with epoxy primer as soon as it's blasted. I'll be sending my 48 coupe body to him soon I'll post pics.

Here's one thing that I neglected to mention, if you're so inclined to run your stock 6 volt radio when you convert it over to 12 volts it's not going to be too happy about and before too long it will give up the ghost in a cloud of smoke. However the folks at Customautosound.com have thought of a solution. A convertor to run any 6 volt accessory on 12 volts

http://customautosoundmfg.com/product/power-inverter

Converting it to 12volt is the only way to go unless you have a concourse level car, if you have a driver and want to have a more reliable system convert to 12 volts a hand full of bulbs and one of these and your done. I did my 32 roadster and no one was the wiser. Sure switching out all the relays starter etc. if the "correct" way to do a conversion but for things like a starter motor that is only used briefly I have done it many times as well as a lot of guys I've spoken to and have never had an issue. The key is good wiring wiring, if yours is in good shape your golden. On my roadster my battery was mounted under the floor in your case thats the only give away but I recall seeing dummy covers some where

  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-82101-2?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-powermaster&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6enQBRDUARIsAGs1YQi6j5Tu0HwI_XnQXX3CVZvDhGVx3-j8N6dCnm9pbGjtTFNJn9TzL1AaAnUGEALw_wcB