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About Busted_Knuckles

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Hot rod motorcycle, guns antiques
  • My Project Cars
    48 Plymouth coupe 56 Nomad, 66 Mustang 63 Corvair 32 Ford roadster

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Just an old car guy with a lot of dream and not a lot of money
  • Occupation


  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
  1. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    I looked into A: finding a stock frame and the only decent one without inspecting it was in Texas so shipping was cost prohibitive, B: I was offered a 6 cyl for free with a transmission but after looking into to rebuild cost of parts alone exceeded the cost of parts for two SBC engines C: Reliability/parts availability I drive everything I build and not to just the local cruise nights but to major events across the country so I'm in Salina Kansas let's say and a fuel pump gives up the ghost what's the likelihood of a local NAPA or O'Reilly etc. having a pump on the shelf for a 1948 6cyl Plymouth vs a SBC. D: Upgrading in technology IE: disc brakes ride and handling stock 48 chassis vs S10 to upgrade the 48 P15 chassis to disc brakes, R&P steering, better ride(shock modification) having a set of ring & pinion gears cut for the P!5 would be astronomical vs using an S10 all off the shelf components at a fraction of the cost. I helped a friend swap his body on to a Dakota chassis and he admitted it was a far better way to go in his opinion and that seeing the cost of what he has put out of pocket vs what I've spent the S10 was far more economical the S10 was the better choice. All that being said I got a lot more negative feedback than positive. One is not just limited by his choices of what's available when building a car today but also by whats affordable the SBC for me is the most affordable way to go and thats coming from a guy with a running 392 & 426 Hemi sitting under a workbench in his shop. I put it all out on paper and crunched the numbers so many times I wore holes in the paper, like it or not the SBC is a far more economical, powerful reliable engine than the flat Plymouth 6
  2. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    I came across the same issues when I posted my thoughts about the same swap and got the same negativity, keep it all original 6 cyl bla bla bla well my car came with a Chevy 6 cylinder so much for originality. My frame was also rotted in key places and I condemned it and decided on going with an S10 chassis mainly because of the cost factor and modern upgrades etc. I am going with a 4 speed behind my 355 SBC, why because I have a fresh one ready to go, just waiting on some pieces to come back from powder coat so I can do a final assemble, right now there is a mock up block resting in the frame. The great thing about the SBC is A its cost B everyone makes mounts, oil pans, headers etc. anything you may need for your swap. The ease of my choice of chassis is everything is the same as an 87 Camaro so if I want four wheel disc brakes I can shop for the best deal. One thing I will tell you is that it's not as bolt in as some say by that I mean you may encounter firewall clearance issues so I suggest removing the front clip even with a stock frame so you have plenty of room to maneuver and work in places that are normally not as accessible. Key things to remember are you need 4 degrees of down angle on the rear of the engine and four degrees of up angle on the rear end so you don't experience U joint binding. Speaking of rear ends if you are planning on using a stock P15 rear axle again limitations are the key factors.only two gear ratios were ever available and their tall like most old cars because those old cinder block 90hp 6 bangers didn't develop enough rpm's and torque to get them down the road so they had to make it up in gear ratio. So if you want to cruise on the highway and go places consider changing out the rear end. I did my research and I believe Butch's Cool Stuff (but don't quote me on that just yet) has a chart to tell you what fits what when it comes to swapping rear axles I was going with a rear from a Tri Five chevy which would have been an easy swap if you choose the route I planned. PM me anytime and I'll be glad to help u anyway I can
  3. 48 plymouth glass replacement

    Well I hope your former owner wasn't a knucklehead like the guy who owned mine who decided to glue or shall I say cenet the windshield divider in place, guess how long it took before I heard the painful crack the glass is completely shot but still an awful sound
  4. quarter glass regulator removal

    All the screws are out the track won't come free of the regulator
  5. quarter glass regulator removal

    Can anyone tell me how to get the rear window regulator out on my 48 P15 coupe? I separated the glass form the regulator and got it out in one piece and there are no bolts left in, the regulator moves but its got me stumped well for right now. I refrained from breaking out the plasma cutter to remove the bottom of that pocket. So any input would be appreciated. Haven't had the time to go do a search on how to yet. Thanks
  6. Body removal 48 Plymouth coupe

    Do your old slow moving self a favor and buy a set of these.the life they save will be yours
  7. Body removal 48 Plymouth coupe

    pflaming I had one semi advantage in that the ____________ who did the work didn't feel the need to tighten any of the bolt...... I mean some were practically finger tight. Good thing because when I get frustrated I usually reach for the smoke wrench but it was at the other end of the shop so I opted for a milder approach. DrDoctor I could have used a doctor this afternoon like my compadre I am no spring chicken either actually my chicken done sprung years ago. It is gratifying to make some progress even if it appears to be minor as long as I keep working on it and sticking with the plan. I read a post here where someone removed the shaft from the steering box but someone didn't give the guy on the Plymouth assembly line the memo. I tried everything to get that free form the box no way so my friend the 4" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel came to the rescue. I had someone interested in it but that never transpired. It's a very easy repair a lug inside the shaft and a few minutes with the Tig welder and it's better than new.
  8. Body removal 48 Plymouth coupe

    Obviously the work of a hack, I will make a replacement panel with an access hole and a rubber plug imagine that
  9. Body removal 48 Plymouth coupe

    What was even more fun was when he welded panels over the back two bod bolts
  10. Body removal 48 Plymouth coupe

    No the one on the passenger side was missing but on the drivers side some knucklehead siliconed a body mount bushing to the body and frame
  11. Body removal 48 Plymouth coupe

    I started removing the body on my 48 today and what a slipshod job, half the body bolts were either missing the nuts all were loose and I am almost positive the body bushings are not correct for my car. The one thing I noticed that looked out of place was on both sides there is a piece of 3/4" box tubing welding at an angle and it appears it was resting on the frame. Is this supposed to be there? I can't imagine what purpose they serve so if you know please enlighten me. Oh BTW I have all the bolts out ready to lift the car off the frame and wait I can't find the bolt heads for the two remaining bolts at the very back of the car, that because some one welded a panel over the top of them must have lost his job at NASA and went into repairing rust old cars Thanks for the input.
  12. wet blasting

    I have all my projects media blasted, Dustless blasting is only good for removing paint, IT DOES NOT WORK ON RUST contrary to what they say. I've witnessed it with my eyes. The guy was touting all its virtues and my friend said ok wait show us how well it works on his (mine) rusted 55 Chevy body, it doesn't. Yes there is a chemical in it to prevent rust but then again there talking flash rust, if you strip the paint off a car and keep it inside it will last a long time before it starts to flash rust, there is a product called Gibbs used a lot by the custom car crowd who like to show their metal working skills off, it expensive but I have a fender sitting out in a shed sprayed with Gibbs for a year and a half and it hasn't rusted, but the easy fix is spray it with epoxy primer as soon as it's blasted. I'll be sending my 48 coupe body to him soon I'll post pics.
  13. 12v alt on 6v system

    Here's one thing that I neglected to mention, if you're so inclined to run your stock 6 volt radio when you convert it over to 12 volts it's not going to be too happy about and before too long it will give up the ghost in a cloud of smoke. However the folks at Customautosound.com have thought of a solution. A convertor to run any 6 volt accessory on 12 volts http://customautosoundmfg.com/product/power-inverter
  14. 12v alt on 6v system

    Converting it to 12volt is the only way to go unless you have a concourse level car, if you have a driver and want to have a more reliable system convert to 12 volts a hand full of bulbs and one of these and your done. I did my 32 roadster and no one was the wiser. Sure switching out all the relays starter etc. if the "correct" way to do a conversion but for things like a starter motor that is only used briefly I have done it many times as well as a lot of guys I've spoken to and have never had an issue. The key is good wiring wiring, if yours is in good shape your golden. On my roadster my battery was mounted under the floor in your case thats the only give away but I recall seeing dummy covers some where https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-82101-2?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-powermaster&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6enQBRDUARIsAGs1YQi6j5Tu0HwI_XnQXX3CVZvDhGVx3-j8N6dCnm9pbGjtTFNJn9TzL1AaAnUGEALw_wcB
  15. P15 Front fender lowers

    I finally got my sheet metal back from the media blaster and let's say it looked a wee bit better before than after. Typical of an old car sitting in the dirt the bottom of the front fender has some rot, not bad repairable but not as easy a fix as unbolting it and bolting on a replacement. The area in question is the front lower section of the front fender that bolts to the top half. My question for you guys , Is the basic curve and shape the same on a 49 as it is on a 48? I know the back is totally different but by all accounts the fronts like the same or mighty close. I am not concerned with any of the hole IE trim parking lights etc. as it's being built as a mid 50's custom and the front is getting a special custom treatment. So what do you guys say oh wise one's in the ways of the P15?