Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About homer41

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    homer alaska
  • Interests
    Flying hunting fishing
  • My Project Cars
    41 plymouth 41 chevy pickup complete. 46/7 chevy pickup streetrod . 41 gmc resting peacefully

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    retired from trans alaska pipeline
  • Occupation


  • Location
    Homer Ak
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

808 profile views
  1. I am about to assemble my 1953 218 plymouth engine. I am working on the rear main, I have the new neoprene seal in place and need to put the parting line seals in. Here is the question, when I have the cap gaskets in place they have a tab that extends down toward the neoprene seal, should this be flat, I think it should, should I cut off these tabs? If I don't they will interfere with the neoprene seal. Should I cut these little tabs off? Dave
  2. Will you be at Home Depot on Saturday? Dave
  3. Thanks all! Dave
  4. 218 plymouth, I am installing rings, the gap is way tight. manual says .010 to .020 what would be the optimum gap to shoot for? Dave
  5. I am so happy You talked me into doing the engine right now. What an ordeal. I tried to check the ring gap in the cylinders, they are all tight, about .007 on them all, guess I will have to do some trimming. The machine shop guy is going to have a tool for doing it sent to me. That is not the worst issue, thought I would continue with checking the crank bearings, NOT GOOD, I put all bearings in and torqued to spec. the crank would not budge. I ended up finding that the # 2 and #3 bearing caps when tightened locked it up. Tomorrow I am taking the engine back tomorrow, will see what happens. Thanks again folks. Dave
  6. All good thoughts, I may go ahead and assemble while I still remember most of it, the machine shop had it for over a year. With any luck it may be installed within a year. I just got the frame back from blasting and painting. I am going to stop work on it for the summer, I have lots of outside things I want to do, the car can wait for bad weather. I do have it in a heated building. Dav
  7. The question is should I assemble now or later? I got my engine back from the machine shop, the only thing that they did as far as assembly was to install cam bearings and put the cam in and the lifters and the valves. They did that as a present for taking so long in doing the machine work. I do not plan on running the engine for many month up to a year, should I assemble now or when I am more ready to run it? I wiped the cylinders down with oil and did the same to about everything. I guess it comes down to is it better off sitting disassembled or assembled, maybe 6 of one half a dozen of the other. Dave
  8. I will take good care of it!
  9. Thanks guys, I'm not at the assembly point yet, everything is being blasted and painted, should be ready soon. I will give it a go and let you know if I have any problems. Got the call yesterday that I can pick up my engine, the machine work is done. Things are moving fast but I am going to stop for the summer, I only work on this in the winter when I am not outside doing other things. Dave
  10. I have a 41 P-12 all stock. I have totally dismantled and am starting to rebuild the front suspension. In the maintenance manual it calls for some special tools to do the upper and lower a arms. Can I get by without the special tools or will I have to reproduce these tools. Any and all help is welcome. Dave
  11. You folks are the best! I am a little thick in the head sometimes, BUT now I have it figured out! I was told when I put the disc brakes on I did not need the backing plate, WRONG, that is my issue, I will have to cut out the center of the backing plate and install it. THEN I should be able to make the proper adjustments. Thank you so much. Dave
  12. I got schooled! I thought the bearings were lubricated from the gear oil in the differential. Now I need to do more investigation. This forum is great! I still have a lot of endplay that I need to deal with, I might have to change the bearings. I still need to get it straight in my head as to what comes in contact with the bearing to set the endplay because I just don't understand it. I am going to dig deeper. Dave
  13. I have a 41 P-12 that is stock. I am working on putting disc brakes on it and I noticed the endplay on the rear axles is excessive. I read in the maintenance manual about adding or subtracting spacers but for the life of me I don't see how this affects endplay when nothing touches the bearing to stop it from moving axiially. I got a 37 diff and pulled the hubs and it is the same. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Dave
  14. I am afaid I bent my rear wheel hub when taking it off. During removal there was lots of pressure an d some heat and some beat to finally remove the tapered hubs.while installing disc brakes I noticed this. To start with this is a 41 plymouth with tapered hubs. On rear. The rim reading is good, within a few thousands, face is good except near one stud where it is .020 to the outboard. I think this was caused by pulling on the hub. Any idea what would be an acceptable tolerance for the hubs? Dave
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use