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Mortimer452

Members
  • Content count

    106
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About Mortimer452

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    Cars, computers
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth 2dr Sedan, 1971 Dodge Dart, 1956 Mercury Monterey

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Just a guy on a farm with a lot of old cars
  • Occupation
    Software Developer

Converted

  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    Cars mostly

Recent Profile Visitors

253 profile views
  1. vapor lock

    I would check the carb floats and make sure they're adjusted properly, sounds like that is more likely your problem than vapor-lock
  2. Woodgrain Thoughts

    SilverDome I think that looks great, nice job. Now you've got me itching to try this on my dash, the old rusty look just isn't doing it for me.
  3. Got myself a 1947 Dodge D24

    Great find. Old cars that are "good but not great" are my favorite. Nice enough to turn heads, but not so nice you're afraid to take it out around town. I drive my P-15 almost everywhere.
  4. Both headlights work on low beams, but the passenger side high beam was dead, so I ordered a replacement from Bernbaum's New light works, but I think it's upside down? I adjusted it left/right/up down to match the driver side, looks great on low, but when I kick the highs on, the beam lowers instead of going higher? I end up with the driver side on high and passenger side shining in the dirt in front of the car. Tried just flipping the bulb 180 degrees but it's keyed on the back side and won't fit in the housing upside down.
  5. Woodgrain Thoughts

    Definitely interested in hearing some advice/input on this. My dash is in dire need of some attention.
  6. Car shows

    There are a few national traveling shows that usually charge $10 or so for admission for spectators. Many around here are free (I live in Kansas, USA). There's an old shopping mall in my town, every single Friday night from roughly 4-8pm they do a free car show in the parking lot. Bring what you have, sit and hang out, anyone who wants to come look is welcome. Usually around 50 or so cars, with a different 50 every week. I go out there once or twice a month.
  7. Tie Rod Ends

    Just offering some options, totally understand that. My dealings with him have been . . . inconsistent, shall we say. And yeah, his shipping is definitely on the high side.
  8. Tie Rod Ends

    Bernbaum appears to have them: http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-front-axle.aspx
  9. Replacing rear main oil seal

    Got 'er put back together finally. Started it up and let it run for 10 minutes, lifted it back up and couldn't find a drop of oil anywhere. I'm happy to start driving it again! Decided to go with the factory recommendation of 30wt non-detergent oil. That is some thick stuff compared to Quaker State 10w30.
  10. Replacing rear main oil seal

    THANK YOU! I'm in luck, there's an O'Reilly's in a neighboring town that has this seal, less than 30 min drive away. I hate waiting on parts, I have so little time to work on the car lately it really sets things back when I have to order stuff online and wait for it to get here, then wait again for time to do the work. I may get this done over the weekend yet!
  11. Speedo drive pinion oil seal

    Check Ace Hardware plumbing section, they usually have a wall full of O-rings in just about every size you can imagine, I bet you can find something there that will work. Bring the old seal in with you to compare.
  12. Replacing rear main oil seal

    Thanks, that's definitely more like the one I have now! I suppose I should stick with that style since I'm sure the same is on the top half and I'm only replacing the lower one right now, I don't think the top can be replaced without pulling the motor. Hopefully this plus the pan gasket will solve my oil leaking problem, or at least reduce it enough to where I can drive across town without losing a quart of oil. Dangit, I was hoping to finish this job over the weekend.
  13. Replacing rear main oil seal

    OK, I'm confused. Engine is a P22. It leaks oil like hell, about 2 quarts per tank of gas. I've determined the leaks are from the oil pan gasket, rear main seal and oil pump. I'm on to replacing the lower rear main seal now, ordered the rope seal kit from Bernbaum. Pulled the main bearing cap tonight and it's not quite what I expected - there's a rubber seal in there now, seems to be integrated as part of the retainer as seen in pics below. Did I get the wrong seal? According to the service manual there should be a rope-type seal in there now but there isn't - it has a retainer like the 1946-1952 pic but has a rubber seal attached like the 1953 pic in the manual.
  14. Overheating!! Time for a Rad flush

    I've had much better luck with the Blue Devil stuff they sell at AutoZone. I use two bottles and top off with water. I'm also having overheating probs, I just keep using the Blue Devil stuff, drive for several days, then flush it out with one of those radiator flush kits that hooks up to a garden hose. Every time I get a gallon or two of brown nasty water and my overheating issue gets a little better. Obviously have some build-up in there but I'm too lazy to tear apart and clean with elbow grease.
  15. What year and model of Plymouth was this?

    Sorry but the grill in that first pic blinded me, I can't see anything else
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