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Mortimer452

Members
  • Content count

    109
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  • Last visited

About Mortimer452

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    Cars, computers
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth 2dr Sedan, 1971 Dodge Dart, 1956 Mercury Monterey

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Just a guy on a farm with a lot of old cars
  • Occupation
    Software Developer

Converted

  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    Cars mostly

Recent Profile Visitors

291 profile views
  1. old man & springs

    It's not easy. Search the forums and you'll find a few tricks. There are also a couple different installation tools you can try. See my post below, I used 36 nickels shoved in-between the coils of the spring to expand it enough to hook up both ends. When I closed the hood, the nickels (mostly) just fell out. I did have to jiggle around with it a bit to get them all out.
  2. Heater questions

    Well that's just it, I don't have any cowl vent ductwork. The cowl vent itself has a handle underneath the dash, push to open, but it's just a hole. If it weren't for the screen over the cowl vent pop-up, I could reach through the cowl and shake hands with someone laying under the dash.
  3. Heater questions

    Cold weather is coming, and I'd hate to leave my P15 sitting in the garage all winter. Gotta get some heat! I'm sure I can get this working, just looking for some info on what I have here. Here's what I've got, black box under the passenger side containing heater core and a fan. I think this is the factory passenger-side heater but may be vintage aftermarket, not totally sure. It has a door on the front to direct air out, and a door on the side to direct air left, has some sortof ductwork cobbled up to that one. When I put 6V to that wire hanging out of the core/fan box it definitely works and moves a ton of air. The switch has got me confused, see pics. Not sure what this coil contraption is on the back, may be a fuse is supposed to go there and it was jury-rigged. It gets hot as hell when I hook up voltage. The switch has four click-positions presumably for low/medium/high/off but when wired up the fan only operates on the second click, all others are off. It has a bulb in the middle but not sure what that could be for since the knob covers it. What about defrost? I appear to be missing some parts here. There are slots in the molding underneath the window, but nothing that looks even remotely like ductwork that would lead up to there.
  4. vapor lock

    I would check the carb floats and make sure they're adjusted properly, sounds like that is more likely your problem than vapor-lock
  5. Woodgrain Thoughts

    SilverDome I think that looks great, nice job. Now you've got me itching to try this on my dash, the old rusty look just isn't doing it for me.
  6. Got myself a 1947 Dodge D24

    Great find. Old cars that are "good but not great" are my favorite. Nice enough to turn heads, but not so nice you're afraid to take it out around town. I drive my P-15 almost everywhere.
  7. Both headlights work on low beams, but the passenger side high beam was dead, so I ordered a replacement from Bernbaum's New light works, but I think it's upside down? I adjusted it left/right/up down to match the driver side, looks great on low, but when I kick the highs on, the beam lowers instead of going higher? I end up with the driver side on high and passenger side shining in the dirt in front of the car. Tried just flipping the bulb 180 degrees but it's keyed on the back side and won't fit in the housing upside down.
  8. Woodgrain Thoughts

    Definitely interested in hearing some advice/input on this. My dash is in dire need of some attention.
  9. Car shows

    There are a few national traveling shows that usually charge $10 or so for admission for spectators. Many around here are free (I live in Kansas, USA). There's an old shopping mall in my town, every single Friday night from roughly 4-8pm they do a free car show in the parking lot. Bring what you have, sit and hang out, anyone who wants to come look is welcome. Usually around 50 or so cars, with a different 50 every week. I go out there once or twice a month.
  10. Tie Rod Ends

    Just offering some options, totally understand that. My dealings with him have been . . . inconsistent, shall we say. And yeah, his shipping is definitely on the high side.
  11. Tie Rod Ends

    Bernbaum appears to have them: http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-front-axle.aspx
  12. Replacing rear main oil seal

    Got 'er put back together finally. Started it up and let it run for 10 minutes, lifted it back up and couldn't find a drop of oil anywhere. I'm happy to start driving it again! Decided to go with the factory recommendation of 30wt non-detergent oil. That is some thick stuff compared to Quaker State 10w30.
  13. Replacing rear main oil seal

    THANK YOU! I'm in luck, there's an O'Reilly's in a neighboring town that has this seal, less than 30 min drive away. I hate waiting on parts, I have so little time to work on the car lately it really sets things back when I have to order stuff online and wait for it to get here, then wait again for time to do the work. I may get this done over the weekend yet!
  14. Speedo drive pinion oil seal

    Check Ace Hardware plumbing section, they usually have a wall full of O-rings in just about every size you can imagine, I bet you can find something there that will work. Bring the old seal in with you to compare.
  15. Replacing rear main oil seal

    Thanks, that's definitely more like the one I have now! I suppose I should stick with that style since I'm sure the same is on the top half and I'm only replacing the lower one right now, I don't think the top can be replaced without pulling the motor. Hopefully this plus the pan gasket will solve my oil leaking problem, or at least reduce it enough to where I can drive across town without losing a quart of oil. Dangit, I was hoping to finish this job over the weekend.
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