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kendall last won the day on December 19 2017

kendall had the most liked content!

About kendall

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    jacksonville fl
  • My Project Cars
    47 wc


  • Location
  • Interests
    collect, create, and restore. antique coin op., motion neon, barback,on and on

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    prior architect/int. designer

Recent Profile Visitors

428 profile views
  1. Tail Light - What is This?

    Found this in Speedway catalog but could go to NAPA and probably buy it by the foot for a buck. Rubber grommet or hose just as good. I ripped the back of my sheet metal stake pockets when bumping into my lights one too many times so I relocated them to my bumper and tucked them in. I also got tired of people telling me I had a taillight out so I splurged on some l.e.d.s in stainless buckets and run my wires below the intended hole in the bed.
  2. Tail Light - What is This?

    Just got another couple of 50' spools of 12 and 14 ga cloth wire from Tom's Engine Barn. It's like buying candy! So many choices!
  3. Molly Time!

    Sorry, I just back-read this thread and see others had the same idea. Always late to the party....any food left?
  4. Molly Time!

    I'd make a filler-panel behind the cab from sheetmetal and paint to match or add a 5" wide functioning filler cabinet. Maybe some fishing pole holders behind a door on one side and a shallow cabinet on the other side. The existing profile and lines of that bed are so square. How about using 2x6 p.t. framing and screw everything together? Fun project.
  5. Head bolts

    Use lots of thread sealant. Nows the perfect time to swap to a stud i.m.o.. They are fine threaded at the nut end so you can finesse the torque and it should stay correct longer and less chance of breaking.Guaranteed gr. 8 or better too. When done, pop a chrome cast nut -cover over the nut and serve! I used ARP from AllensFasteners.com .The part # on my receipt would be for a stud too long for your iron head application but good for an aluminum.
  6. Floorboard Metal Repair How To

    I purchased a 120v Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 I can barely see the puddles when I'm using even with the lightest filter in my mask. I end up pulling my stick welder out and clean the whole piece with a Fibre-disc in a grinder.
  7. Handbrake lining

    The 'step' must be a stop.Too deep and your'e through the pad. A drill press would be in order without. Thanks, as I often wonder what the extra vibration and noise is on start up. Just after the panic and just before the Why me, Lord?" I find my brake lever pulled.
  8. Handbrake lining

    spellcheck sucks, says Mr. Forstner, third period English teacher!
  9. Handbrake lining

    Would one use a forester bit to recess the rivet-heads? Any taper to the seat by a typical drill would weaken the strength of the fastener unless the rivet is tapered. Seems it could distort the pad face as well. Just curious.
  10. Show us your Christmas trucks

    Asleep in a manger
  11. 40 years ago, as a student and a teen, I was asked to design the cover for a new publication from and about the college of architecture at Kansas State University. This is a copy of the mag. just found deep in my file cabinet. I must have preferred the Pilot over the other truck brands long ago but took another 37 years to own one!
  12. Anyone 'yabadadoo' their truck?

    The modular floor surrounding hatch (the hole where Fred generates the power) and the seat base doesn't cover much area.The square notch is for the truck cab mounts and the round hole's for the seat belt. I may use magnets to stick to floor. Next pic is of the 3 glass panels in place. Last shot is of glueing/clamping of one of the floor panels in my kitchen. Always close by are the three toothed pug and Bosco the 'barely hanging on' Boston. The joy of bachelordom is your whole house is your shop.To make room in the garage for the truck, I've made room in my family room for my 3 motorbikes. I never realized how beautiful they are until brought inside.
  13. Bear in mind the 47 and earlier years of Dodge truck had no provision for sound and has pressed steel ribbing in the dash where a radio and speaker would normally be mounted. Later models have prominent speakers in the dash and may lessen the need for this mod. The driver's view of the unit shows minimal (just enough) clearance for the cowl vent lever and disengaged hand-brake. There is ample blind access to reach the top controls if necessary but my phone controls all play functions. In the first snap, the grommet surround becomes two pieces (as opposed to clam action) when drilled for the 5/16" buttonhead bolts but it functions better that way anyway. In the second snap, the aluminum shelf and brackets that I used could easily be built from 3 pieces of 1/4" oak. As an aside, my heater finally looks comfortable as it is flush with the speaker. They are ugly creatures.
  14. While dealing with my see thru floor project, I glanced at my firewall and it gave me a cockeyed grin back so I ripped it out. Ive been toying with installing a compatible sound system for the truck anyway. Here's my solution and it's not going to make the boys working 'install' at the back of Circuit City any busier either. A Marshall Kilburn, wireless bluetooth, 20 hour between 120v. charges. Monoural, centered in the cab, and tilted in your face. Nostalgic looking and sounding. It's also free-standing like the heater next to it. No wires, no holes, no power from the truck. "U-Tube rocks and all you need!" Here are some progress shots. 1/2" solid oak off the shelf at H.D.. Two 5/16" s.s. buttonhead allenbolts are all that will hold this to the firewall. I had to enlarge the existing metal grommet-surround and the firewall holes.
  15. Show us your Christmas trucks

    Thanks guys for sharing your trucks and a peek into your lives. Enjoyed! Roxanne's second story window's ajar. I suspect Steve checkin on daryl.