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James-48-B1B-108

Members
  • Content count

    5
  • Joined

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About James-48-B1B-108

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    dandyj47@yahoo.com
  • Biography
    BSEE with some Mechanical Eng. 38 Yrs Design Engineering.
  • Occupation
    Electronic Engineer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glen Ellyn, IL
  • Interests
    Hobby Farming, New Product development & design, Automotive Restoration Projects, Welding, Programming.
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge B-1-B-108 1/2 Ton Pickup.<br />
    1948 Ford 8N Tractor.<br />
    1974 Corvette Roadster

Converted

  • Location
    illinois
  • Interests
    Singlehandedly acheiving world piece, finding the cure for the common cold

Recent Profile Visitors

117 profile views
  1. '48 B1B Glove Box spring connection points.

    What phenomenal support, thank you all, very much ! Now I'm itching to get to the barn and finish installing it. I hope that after a learning period, I can provide such help to others in the community.
  2. I have finally acquired a spring for the Glove Box in my 1948 Dodge B1B and pocket like installation point on the bottom of the door itself is the obvious connection point, but where does the other end of the spring attach. Would really appreciate some instruction on this.
  3. Factory Appropriate Carburetor

    Thanks for the information, so it would be either an E7B1, E7C1 or E7F1 as delivered for the 1948 B1B. I'll start looking for one of those.
  4. Only been at this for a year, and I'm hoping to draw on your collective knowledge. The 1948 B1B-108 1/2 Ton Pickup I have has a Carter Ball & Ball Model D6H2 which I am told is not the original model for that application, what was the factory installed model for that year and model pickup built mid-year in Detroit? Thanks very much for your help.
  5. Motor Frozen

    Great post Jocko_51_B3B ! I have a 1948 B-1-B with a spare engine which I have started to rebuild and has several exhaust valves frozen to the guides. The one that was frozen partly open I was able to use a large channel lock pliers to rotate back and forth to free up, BUT of course, those in the closed position don't permit grabbing with a pliers. So if you don't mind, I have a few questions relating to your post regarding welding nuts to the top of the valve head to provide a place to grab and twist free. 1. would you mind providing as many details as possible about your weldments: (all around the hex, inside the thread area, etc.)? 2. how large of a size nut did you use? 3. How critical was centering of the nut to minimize shear forces? 4. What welding system did you use (ie. Stick, MIG, Oxyfuel, etc.)? 5. How readily did the valve face bead accept penetration? 6. Did you end up replacing the offending valve guides along with those valves? THANK YOU very much for any and all information you would share, I'm determined to save my engine block. James
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