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lonejacklarry

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lonejacklarry last won the day on January 31

lonejacklarry had the most liked content!

About lonejacklarry

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lone Jack, MO
  • Interests
    I have a '55 Chevy Belair 2 door post and a '37 Chevy coupe.
  • My Project Cars
    Currently working on a '54 Dodge C1 B6

Converted

  • Location
    Lone Jack, MO
  • Interests
    old cars

Recent Profile Visitors

1,189 profile views
  1. I decided I needed a '37 Missouri plate for my '37 Chevrolet project when I bought the car. Missouri, like most other states, has a year of manufacture license plate program. I found one and got it assigned to the car. I was happy! Then I decided that I needed to collect more US and Canada '37 plates for some reason. At this point I have 40 US plates, 7 Canadian plates, and the District of Columbia. It never ends, I guess.
  2. Thanks very much, Tod. That was exactly what I needed!
  3. I have several manuals relating to almost every part in my C1B6. If I need a reference for any particular fastener I can readily find the part number. Therein lies the rub--is there some sort of cross reference available to give me actual fastener dimensions based on the part number?
  4. The short (but most accurate) answer is that the truck/parts are "worth" what someone will pay for it. The buyers actually set the worth not the seller. The seller can ask whatever he/she wants for the truck/boat/ used ladder, etc. but the buyer determine the worth to him/her in the end. The previous answers were correct in that a disassembled truck is a pile of parts and, historically, that pile will not bring as much as an assembled running truck. Now all you have to do is figure out what someone will pay. Come up with a realistic number and list it. If the phone does not ring then you set the price too high. The people on this forum are great fans of old Dodge trucks. Their numbers are far less than a 60's Mustang forum, for instance, and the market reflects that.
  5. As a rule, I try not to pick up things that are 300+ pounds. Now in the south I don't know.
  6. Thanks, Ed. I wondered if that were possible. While I'm asking are those two head studs sturdy enough to lift the engine and transmission?
  7. I got my 230 inline 6 back from the engine builder yesterday. It is buttoned up but has no accessories bolted on. My quandary? How do you attach the little engine to an engine hoist without using the head bolts? The head is on and torqued so I don't have that option. I don't have the intake or headers installed but the studs look fairly flimsy to hold half of the engine weight. There are other bolt holes on the other side but they, too, do not look very sturdy. My best guess is a nylon hoist rope in between the bottom pulley and the block and a sling type thing on a bell housing bolt. And, yes, I did a search but all I found had the head removed prior to lifting. Additionally, when the engine and transmission are put together the sling toward the back might work. The option I describe will make for a top heavy situation however. I plan on installing the engine and transmission as a complete unit before the cab is mounted so odd lifting techniques will be avoided. Any suggestions will be appreciated
  8. Yes to all of the above. Thanks for the help.
  9. Thank you very much for the information.
  10. I'm putting my 230 Dodge engine together for my '54 truck. It has a Felton aluminum head which was machined to "flat" with not much removed. The manuals do not reference torque recommendations for aluminum heads-only stock heads.. The head studs, washers, and nuts are new ARP stuff. Any ideas on a torque value for my project? Thanks!
  11. Here ya' go: https://www.iihs.org/iihs/topics/laws/minitrucks/mapminitrucksonroads
  12. I had that happen years ago when I advertised a Yamaha VMax for sale. I had a call from a guy that said he wanted to come see the bike and that he was going to meet his friend and motorcycle mechanic at my house. The mechanic showed up right on time but the prospective buyer did not. The mechanic wanted to buy the motorcycle so we waited about an hour with no sign of the buyer. This was before cell phones so we could not call him. After an hour had elapsed I sold the bike to the mechanic who had the cash and away he went. The original buyer showed up about 3 hours later and was told what happened. He was less than impressed. I often wondered if they were still friends.
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