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DrDoctor

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DrDoctor last won the day on May 9 2017

DrDoctor had the most liked content!

About DrDoctor

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • My Project Cars
    Restored/"Modernized" 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe.
    And, NO-I'm NOT a guru . . .

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  1. DrDoctor

    Negative Ground

    Don Smith, Thank you for the clarification. So, as long as the ground wires are connecting to the common body—all is good, just don’t allow the actual ground wires to contact one another. I’ve learned something today. And who says you can’t teach an old doc something new???
  2. DrDoctor

    Negative Ground

    Don, I trust your expertise—please make no mistake about that. However, could you please explain how a positive and a negative ground can be run together??? I’m certainly no electrical expert, and the only difference I can see in the example you presented is the voltage of each system, ie: 12v (neg) and 6v (pos). What am I overlooking? Many thanks in advance to you!!!
  3. DrDoctor

    My Scarebird Install 1948 Dodge part II

    Ebruns1, Don’t worry about “wasting band width” (that’s a ridiculous remark . . .). And, don’t worry about occasionally “going off-topic”. Everyone tends to do so—it’s human nature. The site gurus do an incredible job of managing this site. Some people just get their undies in a twist over the most inconsequential things. Just ignore them—I do, and it makes the experience here so much more enjoyable!!! Note: searching the site for previous threads on same/similar topics isn’t the easiest thing to do. Oft times it’s easier to make an inquiry, and let someone steer you in the direction you need to go. I’ve found that the number of helpful/cooperative individuals here far and away outnumber the . . . . . “others”. Best regards to you . . .
  4. DrDoctor

    Negative Ground

    Rereaves, As I mentioned earlier, our car’s 6v/neg ground when we got it. Exception of the radio, things worked fine when we got it, and still do. The insulation throughout the car was extremely brittle, and falling off of the wiring, so I rewired it using a Ron Francis Wire Works “Git It Runnin’” harness, leaving it 6v neg, and have had no problems since that project. I installed 6v quartz halogen headlights, and that made a terrific difference. I installed turn signals, and wired the tail lights to illuminate along with the trunk light. I had to reverse the wires on the ammeter, since the polarity’s reversed. I’ve heard a lot of comment re: wire gauge when using a 12v harness in a 6v car. The “Git It Runnin’” harness from Ron Francis Wire Works has that issue addresses, and in the several years since the rewiring’s been completed, not one problem encountered. Having done all of this, would I change the polarity back to positive? NOPE—can’t imagine a reason why I should even consider it. Just my thot's on this. Warmest regards . . . . .
  5. DrDoctor

    Vacuum wiper interchange with a P18

    Thomba48, Kinda true—I found a few vacuum wiper motors that would fit a ’46 Plymouth, but none of them worked. Since I already had one of those, I couldn’t rationalize why I’d need another one. Regards.
  6. DrDoctor

    Negative Ground

    Rereaves, Our car is a 6v/neg ground (it was that way when we acquired it), and everything works just fine, with the obvious exception of the radio. Since it grounds thru the case, when it was reconnected, the tubes fried, and we now have a rather large worthless burnt lump. If you change the car back to positive ground, I think you’ll have to re-polarize the generator. I don’t know about the starter, or the voltage regulator, as I’ve heard conflicting advice. If you’re converting to 12v, it’ll be negative ground, and you’ll have to deal with the voltage change, with the polarity change being a moot point in such a conversion. if you're keeping the car a 6v, I’m VERY interested as to how you proceed with this. Best regards . . . . .
  7. DrDoctor

    Vacuum wiper interchange with a P18

    Thomba48, Boy, can I relate to that sentiment!!! Our current car is a semi-exception, tho’. The vacuum wiper motor didn’t work too well, and I couldn’t find a replacement. My neighbor had his rebuilt, and it works, but above 50 mph, it doesn’t. We can’t figure out why, either. So, I’m going to try to rebuild ours myself. If it doesn’t work, well, I’ll be no worse off than I was before I began this exercise. My “plan B” is to purchase a 6v electric motor from Mac’s, and fabricate the mountings myself. So, one way or another, I’ll get it accomplished. Best regards . . . .
  8. DrDoctor

    aftermarket radio and speaker installation

    He doesn’t drive the car all that often, and uses the radio even less. I just took the faceplate off of our burnt out hulk of a radio, and put that back into the dash. I put a new speaker in place of the rotted original one. The previous owner hacked a couple of speakers in the rear, but they wound up on the trash when I rewired the car. I’m in no hurry to deal with a radio, since we hardly drive the car anymore—not sure if we’ll keep it, or kick it to the curb. . . .
  9. DrDoctor

    aftermarket radio and speaker installation

    A friend of mine had his 6v/pos radio converted to 12v/neg. it was very pricey, and to add insult to his injury, while it works OK, in no way would anyone consider it “user friendly”. His opinion—he’d never do it again. Lesson learned. As an aside—our car is 6v/neg, and the previous owner connected the 6v/pos radio, and instantly ruined it. I’ve got a heavy lump on my garage floor with burnt tubes as a testament to his ignorance. Thx.
  10. DrDoctor

    HELP !! NO POWER TO THE NEW FUSE PANEL

    The wiring harness from Ron Francis Wire Works—“Get it Runnin’”—is designed to work with a 6v system. Our car has had that particular system in if for several years with NO problems of any kinds since installation. Plus, their support is First Rate!!! Thx.
  11. Ebruns1, Per my tire chart, a 205/75R15 radial tire is the equivalent to a 6.70x15 bias-ply tire. Regards . . .
  12. DrDoctor

    Speedometer goes no higher than 15mph

    Don, I looked at the photo of the back of the speedometer, and I was so curious that I went and stuffed my head underneath the dashboard to look at ours (it really wasn’t as difficult as I’m trying to allude, since I took out the vacuum wiper motor, and the wiper linkage, to rebuild the vacuum motor myself, and if it doesn’t’ work, I’m no worse off than I was before . . .)—it doesn’t have that tube as the one in your provided-photo does. Regards . . . . .
  13. DrDoctor

    Received approval for 1947 plate!!

    Mmcdowel, I can understand your frustration. Altho’, I can tell you’re much more patient/tolerant than I am, as I would’ve tossed in the towel on that process after the first year. Warmest regards to you . . .
  14. DrDoctor

    Vapor lock?? Problem found!

    I had a similar problem with an old Plymouth many, many years ago when I was a snot-nosed kid in hi-school. I’d pour water on the fuel pump when it vapor-locked in the driveway while in the driveway (I called that car the “vapor-lock king”), and then it’d fire right up. Eventually I moved the fuel line from the tank, and the one from the fuel pump to the carburetor, further from the engine, and took some old rubber hose, split it, put it around the now-rerouted fuel lines, and held it in place with bailing wire. Pretty—it wasn’t!!! Effective—it was!!!
  15. I also purchased an Airtex fuel pump from Rock Auto several years ago. Price was reasonable, delivered in a few days, and it works like a charm. I don’t trust Amazon—too many stories like mmcdowel’s. lastly, welding on the fuel pump’s actuator arm is really not a good idea, as that’ll ruin the eccentric lobe on the cam shaft that pushes on the pump’s actuator arm.
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