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DrDoctor last won the day on July 13

DrDoctor had the most liked content!

About DrDoctor

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  1. DrDoctor

    engine swap

    Andy, Not to wander too far off topic, but I just have to ask – whatever happened to that 6-cylinder engine? What did you put it in??? Thx,
  2. DrDoctor

    engine swap

    I’ve seen small block Chevrolets in post-war Plymouths, so they will fit. I’ve also seen a small block Ford in such a car, but the radiator and the firewall had to be dealt with, since the SBF is abit longer then the SBC. If you want something bad enough, it’ll fit. Should you decide to do a frame clip, there are several steps to this to ensure safety, such as gussets, fish-plates, rosette holes, diagonal mating, to name just a few. Carefully consider the alternatives, the respective pros, and the cons, make your decision an informed one, and then go forth and conquer.
  3. DrDoctor

    Light em up

    The trunk-mounted was the only brake light on Chrysler Corporation vehicles of that era. It didn’t work as well as the corporation would’ve liked, however. Drivers were accustomed to seeing the tail lights illuminate when the car in front of them was braking, as was the arrangement on GM, Ford, and the independent’s. By the time the driver realized such wasn’t the case on Chrysler Corporation vehicles, it was usually too late, and a rear-end collision was the result. Best way to reduce that potential on those cars these days is to wire the tail lights to function as brake lights, as well. It may not be original, but better to be safe than strictly original.
  4. DrDoctor

    Synthetic oil

    Belvedere, I did not know that. See? Just goes to show – I’m not too old to learn something new. Regards to you . . .
  5. DrDoctor

    P 15 add-on

    John Reddie, When I was in the Navy, I remember the CB’s had enclosed trucks that had equipment mounted in the back. Most of their equipment, tho’, was for carpentry, or cutting pipe for plumbing. I can’t recall any lathes in their arsenal of tools. Very interesting . . .
  6. DrDoctor

    Synthetic oil

    kencombs, It appears that I have the same point of view as you – “a belt and suspenders kind of guy”. When it comes to the oil in the engine, my sentiment is that if it doesn’t hurt – what’s the harm? I also use oil with zinc/ZDDP. And, I also use a lead additive, and an additive to counter the presence of ethanol, in the fuel that goes into our old Plymouth. Again - it doesn’t hurt – what’s the harm? And to those who have a differing opinion – everyone to their own opinion . . . Best regards to you, sir . . .
  7. DrDoctor

    Synthetic oil

    The “zinc” in motor oil is actually Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate (“ZDDP”). The primary purpose for Its initial presence in motor oil was to protect the lobes of the camshaft, and the lifters running against those lobes. At high engine speeds, pressure builds up between the lobes and their lifters, causing pressure which can squeeze the motor oil out from these two mating parts. This created the need for an anti-wear additive. Hence, the introduction of zinc in the motor oil, because the molecules in the ZDDP bond to the metal surfaces inside of the engine, and thus create a “coating” that protects moving parts, especially the camshaft lobes, and their respective lifters. The introduction of roller lifters in high-performance racing engines reduced the rotational friction between the cam lobes, and the flat-bottoms of conventional solid, and/or hydraulic, lifters. Roller lifters have made their way into many contemporary engines, with correspondent reductions in internal friction, and thus increased efficiency, both in engine longevity (just one factor in that result), and fuel economy. As for the lubrication of the valve stems, while ZDDP does play a part in this, lead (tetraethyl lead) plays a more significant role in this. Lead was introduced into gasoline in the early 20th century as an anti-knock additive, which also increased net horsepower of the engine. But, it also prevented the valves from micro-welding themselves to their valve seats. The eventual cure to this welding phenomenon was the introduction of hardened valve seats. That, along with improved metallurgy of the valves themselves, including the stems, and especially with lead’s incompatibility with the platinum media utilized in catalytic converters, has relegated lead out of contemporary fuels (with the exception of aviation fuels). It’s still available as a fuel additive, and it’s advisable to use it in pre-catalytic converter equipped cars, especially if one isn’t sure if the engine in that pre-catalytic converter equipped car has hardened valve seats. But, it should never be used in a vehicle equipped with a catalytic converter – it’ll ruin it rather quickly.
  8. DrDoctor

    Bath time

    It’s my understanding that the engines in post-WWII were painted silver, but I can verify that. The engine in our car’s light blue. I’m convinced it isn’t the original engine, much less the original color. The exact heritage of the engine, and the source of its color, are a mystery. However, I have no plans on changing the color, because it’s very well done, apparently different from the norm, and I like that. Regards . . .
  9. DrDoctor

    Speedometer lube time

    50net, If the speedometer functions, but the odometer doesn’t, it’s been my experience (with a '56 Chevy convertible, a '65 Pontiac, a '54 Pontiac) that the most likely cause for this condition is a compromise – either the teeth on the gear are damaged (most likely, as the one’s I’ve dealt with were plastic), or the driving worm gear’s worn (not as common).
  10. DrDoctor

    Synthetic oil

    Belvedere, You have a point concerning the seepage issue – the smaller molecules in the random-sized petroleum-based oils will pass by a seal easier than the consistent/uniformed molecules in synthetic oils. The larger-sized molecules within the petroleum won’t be able to get past the seal as easily. I guess it boils down to the volume of smaller molecules compared to the larger molecules in the petroleum-based oils. Given that comparison, one can’t definitely state that one type of oil will leak more than the other type, but rather – it’s dependent upon the ratio of small/large molecules in the oil in question, and the condition of the engine, and its seals. As such, you’re correct, and I stand corrected. I thank you for your cogent remarks, and for this civil discussion with you. With kindest regards . . .
  11. DrDoctor

    Synthetic oil

    True – petroleum-based oils are produced by a refining process of the crude oil. Refining processes aren’t as precise as a manufacturing process such as utilized in synthetic oils. As such, the molecules in petroleum-based oils are randomly organized, and are of inconsistent size, and thereby inconsistent in their weight. The inconsistent sizes of these molecules negatively effects their ability to permeate certain media, as well as to pass between two close-fitting items, such as a part, and the seal’s surface against that part. Synthetic oils are manufactured under an extreme tightly controlled process, and can thus achieve a much finer pre-designed specific molecular structure that’s smaller that its petroleum oil-based counterpart, which yields a much more organized, and consistent, molecular size, and thereby a more consistent molecular weight. Further, one must take into consideration the viscosity index, which is the relationship between the base viscosity of the oil, and the temperature of the oil. Oils with a high viscosity index value aren’t affected by temperature as much than those with a low viscosity index value. The conclusion – the smaller, lighter, more consistent structure, of the molecules of a synthetic oil can pass thru a finer media easier than the molecules of petroleum-based oil. Thus. of the molecules of a synthetic oil can pass between an oil seal, and the part being sealed, easier than the molecules of petroleum-based oil.
  12. DrDoctor

    Synthetic oil

    The reason synthetic oils will leak more in older engines, isn’t because of its “slickness”, but rather because of the size of the molecules in it, which are smaller than that of petroleum-based oils. The same holds true when comparing transmission fluids. As for the break-in issue, it’s not so much of an issue in contemporary engines, due to the advanced machining quality of the components within contemporary engines. In older engines that’ve been overhauled, with or without machining of internal components, it’s still an issue, as most machine shops/rebuilders/remanufactures don’t have the machining equipment with the requisite sophistication/computerization/tolerances of the EOM factories.
  13. DrDoctor

    Wiper Help 46 special deluxe

    ATF works great as a lubricant. It won’t gum up the inner workings, and keeps the internals clean, and it won’t rot the paddle seals. Just don’t try to fill the vacuum motor – just add a few drops, and then work the wiper arms manually to distribute the ATF within the vacuum motor. And, don’t use brake fluid – any dribbling of that will ruin any paint it comes into contact with. If worse comes to worse, and you have to rebuild it, it’s not difficult. Just take your time, and be aware of the orientation of all of the parts. If the housing’s pitted or scored badly, you’re done. Minor scratches and pitting can be repaired with JB Weld, and progressively finer sandpaper, finishing with 600-800-1000. Lastly, a sheet of paper works fine for the gaskets, and don’t over-tighten the tabbed-screws.
  14. DrDoctor

    Making smoke.... on purpose.

    Deliberately making the engine smoke while participating in a parade??? Now I’ve heard it all. It certainly doesn’t show much regard for the others participating in the parade, especially those behind you, not to mention to the spectators. Instead, I think the other participants, and the spectators, would probably prefer that you just remain home. My “ignored users” list just keeps growing . . .

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