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DrDoctor

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DrDoctor last won the day on November 13 2018

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  1. Apparently not enough revenue from the overabundance of ads . . . No charge to someone who’s trying to buy something, but a charge to those who’re trying to sell something. So, the seller’s stop posting, and the site becomes just that much less user friendly. Oh well, that seems to be the way things are going all over the place these days. Just sayin’ . . . . . Hmmm . . . I wonder how long this comment will remain alive . . .
  2. It’s too bad the wheel’s not worth saving, but it is what it is. Take care when “eliminating” the wheel, and hopefully, all will be OK for you. Regards . . .
  3. If the wheel’s not worth salvaging – and ONLY if that’s the case – you’ve got 2 options, albeit both are drastic: 1) Take a torch, and heat the hub of the wheel. We had to do that on an old Chevy back in the ‘60’s because we couldn’t get it to budge, and we ruined the hub – the bolts pulled out of the threaded holes in the hub of the wheel, so we deemed the wheel expendable, but needed the column, so we put the “gas wrench” to the wheel, and we used a gear puller to finish the job. 2) We’ve also taken a cutoff wheel and cut thru the wheel’s hub from the side to split it, and then it just falls off of the shaft.
  4. The red one’s a business coupe, and the blue one’s a club coupe. The business coupe has a small quarter window, and a longer more horizontal trunk lid, while the club coupe has a longer quarter window, and a shorter steeper sloping trunk lid. Further, the club has a rear seat, whereas the business coupe doesn’t.
  5. Taking out the dash is definitely the way to go. As mentioned – once the all of the chrome’s removed, then you can polish it, and do the dash as you wish, with no tap lines. If you do decide to paint the back of the dash, think about painting it white – it makes working under it much better, as the light you use will be much brighter underneath there. I redid our dash in dark grey to go with the interior (it had been stripped, and was black like the car, and I don’t like dashes the color of the car vs the car’s interior, but that’s me . . .). I also painted the back side of the dash in light grey, but I wish I’d used white. Good luck.
  6. Wow!!! Thanks Chrysler1941, and DonaldSmith. You’ve both cleared up that nicely. I obviously wasn’t as confused as I tho’t I was. Now, I’ll just get myself an adult beverage, relax, resume sitting in my favorite chair, and watch the show. Warmest regards to you both . . .
  7. Su 17Mar2019 12:42p – “[sic] I picked up a reducer. One of those gold colored ones with the aluminum heat sink. i was told it would work better than the smaller Runtz reducers.” Su 17Mar2019 09:37p – Tu 19Mar2019 02:36p – “In the original post I said that I have a 12-6 resistor and it’s not powering the motor.” Tu 19Mar2019 08:26p – “Why not just buy a 12v to 6v voltage reducer – simple to use – 12v in and 6v out.” Tu 19Mar2019 08:38p – “This is the second comment in a row, that mentions that I just need to use a 12 V to 6V reducer. The post mentions that I have a 12V to 6V reducer. That is the reason why I posted. I am using the reducer, and it isn’t working.” F 22Mar2019 01:15p 9(approx) – Yep, I did miss the remark about the reducer – sorry ‘bout that. However, please take note that your diagram of 17 March, 2029, that you refer to 2 resistors. Resistors aren’t the same as voltage reducers. Hence, the confusion. It appears as tho’ you’ve “switched horses in the middle of the race” – resistor or voltage reducer??? Well, I think that about covers this. Now, I’ll go back, sit in my favorite chair, eat some popcorn, and just watch the show . . . .
  8. Why not just buy a 12v to 6v voltage reducer – simple to use – 12v in and 6 out.
  9. Reversing the polarity on the wiper motor will have no effect on the direction the motor runs.
  10. Belvedere666, I’m certainly no electrical expert, altho’ I’ve wired/rewired my share of cars in my time, I’ve wired motors with both – and + grounds in + ground cars, and never had a problem. Radios, for example, are ground-sensitive. I know a – ground radio connected to a + ground system will fry, as I’ve got a fried lump on my garage floor that was once the radio from our ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe Club Coupe. But, electric motors are “ground indifferent”. Now, as to what’s causing your specific situation, I’m sorry, but I’m not much help. I tho’t is it’s something with the voltage reducer, but that just a SWAG. Good luck with this . . . Regards . . .
  11. Robin (UK), Great photos!!! I love looking at photos my dad took of his ship-board adventures during WWII. As for where the front license plate was positioned with the presence of the center bumper guard, the initial photo answers that question. I mention that because our “46 Special DeLuxe Club Coupe has a bracket mounted on the front splash pan in that same position, which makes me wonder if our car once “served and protected” somewhere in its past. Hmmmmm . . . . . Thx.
  12. Some states issue their own VIN’s for older vehicles that only have serial numbers, and don’t have factory-assigned VIN’s – a couple that come to mind are Kansas, and Delaware. It’s my understanding that a true VIN has alpha characters as well as numeric characters. Don’t know what difference it makes, but I didn’t write the laws . . .
  13. Hey, Woodrow. Oh, I forgot to mention what to do about excess the sealant on the glass side – let it dry, take a new sharp razor blade (don’t use an old one – we don’t want any scratches from a chewed blade . . .) and run it perpendicular to the glass next to the rubber, and carefully cut it. Then take the razor blade, and use it as a scraper to lift some of the excess sealant, and just peel it off like cellophane. The tape on the body side will yield the same effect – after you’ve also run it perpendicular to the glass next to the rubber, and carefully cut it. Again – another “happy dance” . . .
  14. BobDeSoto. From what I’ve been told by a former patient who worked at a GM factory his entire adult life – the stapler used by the factory uses larger diameter, and harder, wire. The staple’s driven into the thin metal, which is typically abit softer than the staple, exactly perpendicular to the metal, by means of a “foot” (much like a sewing machine foot) holding the work-piece in place during the actual stapling action.
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