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DrDoctor

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DrDoctor last won the day on November 13 2018

DrDoctor had the most liked content!

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  1. DrDoctor

    New member

    GG40Dsoto, Your grandfather’s car – now that’s a keeper!!! Once you’ve got it back on the road, and you’re behind the wheel, you’ll have a smile on your face that no one will be able to wipe off. As anxious as you’ll get wanting to drive it, take your time, and proceed with caution. This site can be a vast source of information, and you’ll soon discover who you can trust for reliable information, and who the opinionated blowhards are. Sorting thru that can take abit of time, but it’s usually obvious. The main thing is to set your goal as to what you want the car to be when completed, keep that goal in sight, and take it methodically, step by step, to that goal. Remember, the joy of anything isn’t necessarily the achievement of the goal, but rather in the journey itself. Good luck, and best regards to you.
  2. DrDoctor

    Hood Release of my 49 B Coupe

    This just makes me appreciate a heated garage all that much more . . . Now, I want A/C for the summer months . . . Momma says “No!!!”, so “No” it is.
  3. DrDoctor

    P15 Windshield Replacement

    Bobby, Curiosity, and my empirical training – I got my neighbor to call the glass shop to ask them a question for me – specifically: does the glass go into the rubber, and then that assembly goes into the car’s opening, or does the rubber go into the cars opening, and then the glass goes into the rubber. The answer he got – could be either, dependent upon the car/truck, flat/curved glass. I’m no glass expert by any means, but this guy’s been in that business longer than I’ve been in healthcare, so I’ll defer to his expertise. I read the material from Steele, and it makes total sense to me, so I’d guess that if the rubber was installed first with the glass immediately thereafter, the rubber would have to be securely glued in place, or the whole thing would be a constantly shifting mess. However, I’m still left with the question of which method – glass in the rubber first, or rubber in the car’s opening first – and I’m going to leave that question alone, because I don’t plan on ever doing such a task myself anytime soon. Regards . . .
  4. DrDoctor

    New or NOS

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  5. DrDoctor

    P15 Windshield Replacement

    Bobby, I don’t know about the “smart guys” part. I’ll admit to being very highly educated, but “education” doesn’t always have a positive correlation to “smart”. With that being said – my personal experience (emphasizing “My” for the nay-sayers out there) to your 1st question – take the glass out 1st, and if you’re replacing it, just break it out. Then, the trim comes out of its channel. Install it in the new rubber’s channel, and then install the rubber on the car, and then the glass into its channel. My answer to your 2nd question – the pull-rope should be just abit smaller than the channel the glass is imbedded into. Also, it should be smooth, to facilitate reinstallation. Further, don’t be shy with the lubricant. If you don’t have lubricant, liquid dish soap works just fine. Some points to remember – if you’re not reusing the glass, just kick it outwards from the inside. It’s advisable to hit the glass with a hammer, so it’ll “fold” rather than try to come out of the channel in one big flat piece (which might compromise the trim imbedded in the rubber)/ Put a blanket, or similar covering, on the hood and front fenders to prevent damage to the finish. If the car’s not in its finished paint, then don’t worry about it. Reinstalling the glass is usually easier from the bottom to the top, so you’re not fighting the weight of the glass as you go. Put the pull-rope in the channel with the ends meeting in the middle at the top. Pull both ends, which should pull the rubber inwards, and drawing the glass into the channel. Also, you should put the glass into the channel from the outside as much as possible (typically the bottom, and maybe ½ of the sides). Enlist the aid of at least 1 person. Get some hard nylon window tools (Mac’s Antique Parts – an Eckler’s company, has them, and they’re not expensive.). Lastly – patience, patience, patience!!! And, if in doubt – Stop immediately, and regroup. Best of luck . . .
  6. DrDoctor

    Led tail/brake lights

    I forgot to mention that we used clear LEDs for the parking light/turn signals in the front, too. My neighbor with the ’54 Pontiac and I were discussing the LED bulb issue, and the flasher required for them. He said he paid around $10 for the flasher, but that the guy at the auto parts store we deal with said we could use a “conventional” flasher if we put a regular bulb on each side for the turn signals. I replied to the effect – why would we do that, since the reason you wanted to go with LEDs was 2-fold: 1) brightness; and 2) durability. With conventional bulbs, you’ll be dealing with the regular bulbs rather than the “do it and forget it” concept with the LEDs. He agreed wholeheartedly.
  7. DrDoctor

    P15 Windshield Replacement

    The flat glass as in this version of car’s usually safety glass (basically – a sheet of clear plastic in between 2 sheets of glass) vs tempered glass. Safety glass is easily cut – I’ve done it several times on cars with chopped tops. Grinding the cut edges to remove any sharp edges that can cut you more easily, and hang up on the rubber upon installation, is highly recommended. Tempered glass (which most curved glass is), however, can’t be cut in the “traditional” manner – it shatters into small pieces (but, tempered glass can be ground down – we used to do this in the back of the building “back in the day” – 1 guy using a body grinder with a fine-grit disc, and another with a garden hose to keep the glass cool). The key’s to not rush the job. Go too fast, the glass gets too hot, and it’s “goodbye” glass, and you get to start all over again. If the grinder tips, and the glass “chunks”, it’s “goodbye” glass, and you get to start all over again (that’s the voice of experience you’re hearing . . .). On the ’54 Pontiac, the windshield’s curved, and no glass shop would guarantee the installation, as glass mounted in a rubber channel’s “old school”, and most contemporary glass shops don’t have any experience with such. We lucked out, as there’s a glass shop not too far from us that does such installations on semi-trucks (which he said is the norm for them), and he does a lot of antiques and street-rods. His price was $100 – at our location, and we had to provide at least 1 helper (that was me . . .). He used plenty of liquid lubricant, and a very smooth pull cord. The job took about 1½ hour, went without a hitch, and was the best $100 my neighbor ever spent!!!
  8. DrDoctor

    Led tail/brake lights

    I guess it depends upon the distance from the bulb to the taillight lens. If it’s not too far, red probably works OK, but our setup uses ’55 Olds taillight assemblies on the ’54 Pontiac, and the distance between the bulb and the lens is about 3”. We’re using 12v bulbs, as I rewired his car with a Ron Francis (what we use exclusively . . .) harness. And NO, a regular flasher won’t work with LED bulbs (insufficient resistance in the flashing circuit with the LED’s in place).
  9. DrDoctor

    Led tail/brake lights

    We tried LEDs on the ’54 Pontiac – the white one worked just fine, nice and bright. The red ones – not so great – they resulted in a rather dark red, not as bright.
  10. DrDoctor

    Three Point Seatbelt

    Greetings, Richard, A quick follow-up comment on the seatbelt bar – 12” seemed to be the longest I could go given the constraints of the car. I originally planned on using a longer bar, but couldn’t get it inside of the B-pillar, what with the roof on one end, and the floor on the other. I tho’t about going into the pillar in the middle, but the way it was formed hindered that, too. Contemporary cars don’t have anything like what I used, but they’re reinforced though out their structure. The 12’ version, especially being inside of the pillar, will distribute any accident-caused strain within the pillar sufficient to retain it, and thus the occupant(s), too. An accident sufficient to distort the pillar is one that the occupant(s) most likely won’t survive. Now, about those headlights – I mis-interpreted your comment – using a bulb vs a sealed beam in conjunction with the original fluted lenses is the proper way to go. I don’t know anyone who’s used the newer LED bulbs. My neighbor and I tried to use LED in the taillights on a ’34 Ford, a ’57 Chevy, and a ’54 Pontiac, and we weren’t too please with them. Instead, we usually use quartz/halogen bulbs, and we really like the results. The only downside is that they’re abit pricey, but it’s his money since they were his cars – I do the work, and he pays the piper. I use a lot of Ford parts on my wife’s ’46 Plymouth, and I get the majority of those parts from Mac’s Auto parts (an Eckler’s company). Best regards . . .
  11. DrDoctor

    Three Point Seatbelt

    Richard, You should be careful about using any kind of sealed beam headlight behind the original fluted headlight lens. The fluting of the sealed beam conflicts with that of the original lens, and causes visibility issues, not to mention that many states consider such a combination illegal. If you do decide to use a sealed beam unit behind the original fluted headlight lens of the original fluted lens, make sure the sealed beam has a clear-unfluted lens, then there’s no light beam conflict, and many states will allow such combinations. We did that here where I live on a ’54 Pontiac that we built a couple of years ago, and the state inspector tho’t it was just fine, and we’ve got plenty of light at night. As for the plate in the B-pillar – you’re on the right track in putting it inside of the pillar. I repaired a car many years ago where the builder put such a plate on the outside/interior side, of the pillar, and held it on with bolts, only to have the whole assembly come off when he had a minor accident. Luckily, no one was injured as a result. I redid it using a piece of ½”x2”x12” steel bar, threaded for the belt mounting bracket. I cut a slot near the top of the B-pillar, and lowered the bar, bolting it thru the pillar into threaded holes of the bar (holed being pre-determined). Once installed, I simply welded the opening at the top of the pillar closed. After the upholstery was re-installed – done, and it looked like it’d been there all along. Regards, and good luck . . .
  12. DrDoctor

    Body mount replacement

    Ken, You’ve got it – Thanks!!!
  13. DrDoctor

    Another Aussie onboard

    Aussie56, You car’s absolutely beautiful!!! I can relate to your issue with your wife and the auto trans. My wife and I both have “physical challenges”. The standard transmission isn’t a problem for me, but it is for her. So, I’ve made the decision to eventually dump the entire drivetrain of our ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe club coupe, and replace it with a ‘60’s-80’s Ford 6-cylinder engine, C4 auto, and Ford rear. I’m also going to scrap the Plymouth’s front suspension, and replace it with a Ford front suspension from the A-arm pivots outward. That’ll get rid of the Lockheed style brakes, which I hate. The overall goal is to have an old car that she can drive, while being dependable with a contemporary drive train, and suspension. I’m not at all interested in keeping the car original, we both want it to look original, tho’. As for the destiny of the original components . . . . Warmest regards from the frigid northern hemisphere . . .
  14. DrDoctor

    Body mount replacement

    Andy, Who’s Tim???
  15. DrDoctor

    Body mount replacement

    During a conversation with my neighbor, he suggested that I expound upon my earlier explanation, so here it is – this is the process I’ve used on GM, Ford, and Chrysler products, such as ‘63/’67/’69/’72 Corvettes, ’55/’56/’57 Chevys, ’65 Pontiac, ’57 Buick, ’50 Ford, ’57 Ford, ’67 Chevy pickup, ’46 Plymouth (not mine . . .), ’34 Plymouth – well, that’s not all of them, so you can see that the list’s rather lengthy. In fact, it’s the process my neighbor and I used on a Ford panel truck, a ’34 Ford Victoria, a ’57 Chevy, a ’54 Pontiac, and a ’56 Mercury. The point is – ALL were accomplished without ANY problems. An important point is to keep the doors/trunk/hood CLOSED, to keep the body from twisting during this process.
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