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DrDoctor

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DrDoctor last won the day on November 13

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  1. DrDoctor

    Jaguar front clip

    Kugal does make a quality product, no doubt about it, as reflected by the price. Revo’s also a high quality setup – it’s built like the preverbal “brick outhouse”, but like the Kugal unit – cheap it ain’t!!! The only weak point on either Kugal or Revo is the welded A-arms. However, there is a "work-around" for that, and then - no problem. . .
  2. Bob Riding, Back “in the day”, we considered a Chevy Vega weighing in the 1 ton range. Now, we (another car guy . . .) consider a Mustang II to be about 1½ ton range. Given a built-in safety margin from the factory, we’d guess (emphasizing “guess”) a Vega capable of around 1-1½ ton range, and the Mustang II capable of around 1½-2 ton range. Neither of us would be comfortable in exceeding those weights. We both admit to being conservative in our calculations, but we’d rather be safe rather than sorry. Warmest regards to you . . . Bob T, I just completed converting a late-60’s Corvette from the quick-ratio steering to standard-ratio steering. In this particular case, all I had to do was to drill out the aluminum plugs in the outer-most tie-rod holes of the steering arms, clean them out, and reinstall the steering arms (thank goodness it didn’t have the quick-ratio steering box) rather than the inner-most tie-rod holes where they’d previously been. Now the car can be driven down the road without it jerking all over the place resultant to exaggerated input from the steering wheel.
  3. DrDoctor

    Anti-theft devices

    Steve, Once upon a time, in a land not that far away (on the mid-Atlantic coast of the US – the other side of “the pond”), my wife and I both drove Corvettes. I don’t recall just where I got the pedal jacks (1 for each car), but I can probably find the information, since I’ve got folders on every car we’ve ever owned, even back to the ’56 Chevy convertible, and the ’65 Pontiac, we owned when we got married, which is 1970!!! I just looked it up on the internet, and discovered that they’re available from a variety of sources, with prices in the $50.00 US range. I also discovered that the company now makes a version for brake/clutch pedals, which I’d venture to say would be a good piece to start with, given the vehicles we’re talking about have both pedals. The “Cluch Claw” also looks effective, but I’ve never heard about it until just today. However, by looking at the image, it looks to be abit more difficult to engage/disengage (what with the key-lock in between the pedals near the floor) than the Pedal Jack, which has the key at the top. And, from the photo, one can't tell what type of key's being utilized in it. The Pedal Jack has an excellent reputation, but they do have some short-comings – the key’s unique (4-way key, with 4 sets of tumblers) so it can’t be picked, it can’t be duplicated by your local locksmith, and if you somehow manage to break it off in the handle (which will take a considerable amount of effort) – well, you’re pretty much screwed at that point – you’ll have to cut it out, and that’s no easy task, either. Further, anything inside of the car obviously isn’t protected, but at least you’ve maximized the potential of the car being where you left it when you return to it. Should you encounter any problems locating a Pedal Jack, just mention it herein, and I’ll try to get back with you asap. Warmest personal regards . . . .
  4. DrDoctor

    Anti-theft devices

    Steve, I think the "handgun in England" scenario could pose a significant problem for you . . . just thinkin’ out loud . . . As for the issue of keys – I’d recommend you have a lock-smith come out to your house, or take the car to the lock-smith, and have a set of keys made for the doors. Thereafter, ensure that all of the doors are locked when leaving the car for any significant period of time. you might also contact Corvette America, Corvette Central, Mid-America Corvette, or Eckler’s (Corvette), about obtaining a “Pedal Jack”. You’d have to modify it to work with the floor pedals, but with some fabrication, some arc welding, a little paint for cosmetic purposes at the conclusion, and viola – you’re good to go!!! Best of luck to you, and warmest regards . . . Thx.
  5. In response to the question pertaining to the rebuilding of steering boxes – I’ve replaced bushings, and gaskets, on a few mid-50’s Chevrolet steering boxes, and experienced no problems afterwards. As for replacing any of the “hard components” inside of a steering box, that I’ve never done, due to my lack of personal experience with those components. When I had a problem with my mid-60’s Pontiac, I just replaced the box, since at that time (the late-70’s), they were plentiful, cheap, and it was quick to remove/replace. Regards to you . . . Thx.
  6. DrDoctor

    Anti-theft devices

    allbizz49, The ubiquitous auto alarm – most contemporary vehicles now come equipped with this system straight from the factory. If not, such a system can be purchased at most auto parts outlets, and installed rather easily, given a modicum of mechanical aptitude. But, how well with that aftermarket system will work is dependent upon how it designed, and how it’s integrated with the host vehicle. And, let’s not overlook the fact that we all hear a car’s alarm blaring at the local shopping center’s parking lot, and we all just ignore it. I’ve got a S&W 460V Magnum revolver that’s incredibly intimidating when viewed from the “business end”. However, you’re 100% correct – one has to be awake in order to maximize its effectiveness . . . Best regards to you . . . Thx.
  7. Bob, I’ve used Vega steering boxes on cars, but they were rather light – bucket T’s mostly. I knew a guy back home (the mid-west) that put one in a ’40 Ford coupe, and it cracked. Luckily, it didn’t fail while he was running down the interstate at 70+ mph!!! We replaced it with one from a larger car, and it’s still going strong, and that was in the early-80’s. I mentioned the issue of the donor vehicle’s weight and a component’s original design, vs the receiving vehicle’s weight and the component being overwhelmed by weight, in another topic herein just a few moments ago. What I mentioned there’s also applicable here. A failure in your driveway is bad, but a failure on the interstate can have catastrophic results. As such, my recommendation's to search for steering components designed to deal with the weight of the car they’re to be utilized upon. It’s far better to over-build rather than under-build, and inadvertently compromise the integrity of the vehicle. One can’t be too careful, and it’s better to be safe than sorry . . . Good luck, and best regards . . .
  8. DrDoctor

    Jaguar front clip

    hurnleft, I’ve done some cars in a manner similar to mrwstory’s. However, I don’t use any Mustang II type systems any longer, as I’ve been hearing about failures due to the system being overwhelmed by weight. The Mustang II system’s being utilized on vehicles substantially heavier than the system was initially designed for. I was monitoring this rather closely, and when a car I did a few years ago failed, I quit using them immediately. The failure that occurred was the long bolt in the setup used for the pivot shaft of the lower A-arm. I know of a couple other fellows who experienced a failure of the tubular upper A-arm – one occurred in the guy’s driveway, so no one was hurt, and the car suffered only minor damage, whereas the other one happened on a city street – again, luckily, no one was injured, but the car received significant damage, and was subsequently totaled. Since then, I’ve been using front ends from cars with the weight similar to that the system’s going to be installed upon. I take everything from the frame-rail mountings outwards, A-arms, pivots, pitman arm and its bracketry, etc., and install the A-arm pivots to the receiving vehicle’s frame. Obviously, copious and accurate measurements, including track width/wheelbase/anti-dive angles/Ackerman, are the rule of the day for something as involved as this like this. Lastly, we’ve been using a “traditional” Lincoln stick/arc welder to ensure strength, along with plenty of gussets/rosettes/fish-plates. This isn’t a place for a wimpy box-store wire welder, or amateur welders. Good luck, be safe, and best regards . . .
  9. DrDoctor

    Anti-theft devices

    Steve, That’s not good . . . however, there are a few things that can be done. I once had a customized Pontiac, and I made it very difficult for anyone to steal it, unless they put it on a car hauler, and nothing will stop them at that point. My car had electric solenoids in the doors to activate the latches, and the button outside was hidden, but that most likely wouldn’t apply to your car. I had a toggle switch mounted up under the dashboard that was inline with the starter circuit from the ignition switch. Further, I also had a ’46 Ford starter button inline with that same circuit hidden under the carpet, so you – 1) had to know the existence of these 2 “interrupters”; 2) had to know the location(s) of these 2 “interrupters”;and 3) had to: A) engage the toggle switch; B) put you foot in the proper place on the floor to depress the push-button; and C) turn the key to engage the starter. Another thing I’ve used on cars that I wanted to remain where I put them was to take a device called the “Pedal Jack”. It jams the brake or clutch pedal (or both if using 2 of them), up from the floor. It’s designed for hanging pedals, but with “modifications”, can be used for pedals going thru the floor. Steering wheel “club” devices aren’t that effective. Their main barrier is the windshield, but their major weakness is the fact that a good pair of large bolt cutters can render them useless by just cutting a spoke, or the rim, of the steering wheel. Granted, the wheel’s ruined, but to a thief, sacrificing a wheel is small price to pay for the acquisition of an entire car. Good luck, and best regards to you . . .
  10. DrDoctor

    How to polarize generator - 1939 DeSoto

    Mike39desoto, I also had to sell a couple of vehicles in order to get thru grad school/med school. Unfortunately, I was never able to get either of them back. Best of luck on your newly-reacquired project. Regards . . .
  11. DrDoctor

    First drive 1939 D11 Luxury Liner sedan

    Brian, I asked the owner of the Pontiac about the plain-lensed headlights, and he says he got them from Speedway. Regards . . .
  12. DrDoctor

    First drive 1939 D11 Luxury Liner sedan

    Brian, I recently built a mid-50’s Pontiac with another guy, and we used a headlight unit that had a flat front (it was a heavy plastic) with NO fluting. It also had a tri-bar that could be incorporated, if desired. He purchased it, so I don’t know the manufacturer. I’ll bet that would work just fine behind your original fluted lenses. I’m going out on somewhat of a limb here, but I’m wondering if you checked with hot-rod parts suppliers, such as Speedway, or Ecklers (they’re primarily restoration parts, but they do have hot-rod stuff, too), or other such places, you may find them. I’ll try to contact that guy, and ascertain just where he got his. As for the “chrome” powder coating, I’ve heard that the concentrated heat from the H-2 bulbs it too much for the powder coating, but I have no first-hand experience with that. Regards . . . . .
  13. DrDoctor

    Installing door weatherstrip

    John, I agree with Andy regarding Steele Rubber products. On the few times I’ve used their products, they were rather expensive, and they weren’t packed well – when received the pieces were “gatored” so badly that they were incredibly difficult to install. Conversely, I’ve had absolutely no problems with items from Wichita Trimming Company (Wichita, Kansas, where we’re from . . .) Regards . . . . .
  14. DrDoctor

    First drive 1939 D11 Luxury Liner sedan

    Erik, The Ron Francis harness includes everything you’ll need, and if/when you ever convert to 12V, you don’t have to anything to the harness itself. We’re running a 6v generator with voltage regulator, but the only thing not “standard” is the neg ground, and I didn’t change it because the car functioned just fine (with the exception of the burnt hulk that was once I assume a functioning radio . . .), so I saw no upside to returning it to pos ground. I’ve used Painless once, and it wasn’t “painless”. I’ve heard both good and bad about EZ, but I’ve never used their product. With the Ron Francis harness, you position the fuse box (I put ours on the inside of the firewall above and to the left of the steering column as you’re sitting at the wheel), and ran the wires where they needed to be – front of the firewall, interior, and rear of interior. I ran those going to the rear-most of the car in a channel inside the interior on the floor vs up-and-over the doors, since the interior was semi-new, and I didn’t want to mess with the headliner, so I just cut the original harness, and left it for archeologists to discover long after I’m gone. Included in the package is an ignition switch, headlight switch, all of the ends, head-light sockets, etc. You’ll provide the labor, tools (a set of wire-strippers make the task so much easier . . .), liquid refreshment, background music (Glenn Miller big band music did the trick for me . . .), and air circulation (I was doing mine in the shop sans A/C in the middle of the humid summer – we live right on the Atlantic Coast . . .). As for how the long the engine would last, I guess the short answer’s dependent upon how it’s driven. Driven “normally”, it’ll last for many years. However, if it’s driven like a guy I know here drives his Corvette (VERY HARD!!!), it probably wouldn’t last a year. In conclusion, I think you could do a lot worse than a Ron Francis harness, but you’d be hard pressed to do better. Warmest regards to you . . .
  15. DrDoctor

    First drive 1939 D11 Luxury Liner sedan

    Erik, We have a ’46 Plymouth Club Coupe, and when we got it, the wiring’s insulation was literally falling off!!! I purchased a “Git It Runnin’” wire harness from Ron Francis Wire Works. It can be used with either 6V or 12V, neg ground or pos ground. Our car was/is 6V/neg ground. The system went in incredibly easy, and on the few questions I did have, Kyle Bowers provided the answers quickly and concisely. The system’s been in the car for almost 6 years, and we’ve absolutely ZERO problems with it. I’ve used Ron Francis’ products on several other cars I’ve built – for myself, or for others – also with zero problems. Warmest regards to you . . . .
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