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About Bison00

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Winnipeg Canada
  • Interests
    Antique cars, old machines in general, home built airplanes, antique electronics, music, history
  • My Project Cars
    1920 Ford Touring, frame off resto, chassis done 100 % as new, working on body. Just bought a drivable 1950 Chrysler New Yorker that needs paint and deatailing and a bit of mechanical tlc

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  • Biography
    Born and raised in Winnipeg. Read Antique car books as a kid and finally have the time and dough.
  • Occupation
    Retired Telecom Engineer


  • Location
  • Interests
    Cars, Airplanes, Music, Electronics

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  1. James, Thanks for elaborating on that. Are you saying the Optima engineers recommend there should be zero charge showing on the ammeter for a fully charged battery ? Mine certainly does show a slight charge at all times when cruising and I thought that was normal. According to Optima’s website, the maximum recommended float (fully charged) current is 1A but they go on to say that if your vehicle charging system maintains a float voltage of 14-14.8V (7-7.4V for a six volt system) you should be fine. That is a pretty broad voltage spec that any correctly adjusted stock charging system should be in compliance with. I did check this a year ago but I think I will hook up a digital volt meter and ammeter again and see what is going on as the car operates. I’m also going to check for any heating at the bottom of the battery. If there is too much float current it should be a simple matter of adjusting the voltage regulation relay to lower the voltage a bit. That in turn will lower the charging current. For sure a digital regulator designed for AGM batteries should be a safe way to go but I enjoy keeping this old technology stuff working, and I see no reason that a mechanical regulator can’t be dialed in to the correct voltage and charging rate for an Optima. In fact, from what you are saying about the digital regulator products sometimes working and sometimes not, I’m inclined to stick with the old adjustable mechanical regulator. There should not be any “sometimes it works, sometimes not” voodoo for a well designed product. My comment about matching the regulator and generator is really a separate issue about getting the full rated charge out of your generator. If we install a 30A regulator with a 45 amp generator, the current regulation relay will prevent the generator from giving its full rated charging current. As these cars have barely enough generator power to run all the lights and accessories, you need every amp you can get. You also don’t want the generator producing more than its rated current, or it will overheat. Thats why I don’t understand the “one size fits all” new replacement regulators sold by the vendors. thanks, Curt
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