packratc

I finally got around to dealing with the different flange thickness between the Langdon headers and the Offy dual carb intake. I had not been satisfied with the thick washers making contact with the different manifolds. It seemed to me that the washers didn't "catch" as much of them to really get a good bite. I cut up some steel into small pieces about 1.25" by 2'''s. Held them between each of the four uppermost studs and drilled a generous 3/16th hole where I guessed it should be for the stud to go through it. I then ground the shape of the plate to go around the manifold contours so it would catch the most area of each of the manifolds. I then ground down the "home-made" washer on the side toward the block where the washer hit the thickest manifold until the "washer" was level. Then I added a healthy 3/16th washer and locking fine-threaded nut. The home-made washers are funny shaped but you only see the tops which I ground straight across. I then painted them the block color. By now you've caught on that you are smarter than I am. You would have made patterns of the washers out of an old cereal box. I didn't think of that until I was making the last one.

Made one today out of the clear vinyl plastic that they use to make curtain-like seperators in warehouses.

I noticed the difference my self. What did you do to fix it? Thanks, Carl

Thanks, Kendall. I had read about those leaking but George did not weld them. I've got the kit from Tom Langdon to run water but haven't decided yet if I'm going to. Have you run water in one and what was your experience? Thanks, Carl

Another "Don't fit problem" arose. As I said before I sent my Offenhauser intake to George Ashe for the rehab job. Got it back and tried to put it on. I had raised the front body mount about 1/4 of an inch to get the Langdon headers to not hit the firewall. So now the Offenhauser intake hits the firewall. Again, this intake came with the car and I don't know how old it is but it doesn't appear to have ever been mounted. I don't know if Offenhauser built different manifolds for this engine some time ago, or the ones they now sell are different. In any event, it hits the firewall in my '50 Plymouth P19, Buisiness Coupe. I've been grinding on the end of the intake and I've dimpled the firewall a little bit. The car is/was all painted. Now it needs some touch-up. My question is whether anyone else has heard of an Offenhauser intake not fitting in a P19? Thanks, Carl

When I bought my car it came with an Offenhauser intake and an aluminum head. One of George's services is to build & match your carbs on your manifold, make the linkage, and return the assembly ready to bolt on. He called me yesterday and said it was ready and I sent him a check. OK? That's why George has my Offenhauser intake.

Got new Langdon headers. Had a nice conversation with Tom. Fitted them on the engine stand with the Offenhauser two one barrel intake. Had to grind both a little bit . Sent the headers to the powder coaters and got them back today. Engine is now in the car but intake is not back yet from George Ashe. Had put all studs in the side of the block for a good water seal. Rear header would not go on. Backed out the rear-most studs and swiveled the header up on the long stud and it hits the fire wall. Needs to go up about 1/4 inch to get the two rear studs/bolts back in. I the car has been all painted and has been driven. The front clip is off again. I noted that the foremost body mount at the base of the firewall could be spaced up may a shy 1/4 inch as it looks lower than the driver's side. If I spaced it up it would throw off all the alignment of the whole front end. I think. The other obvious solution is to cave in the floorboard a tad with a port-a-power and hope I don't break the paint. Of course the paint scar would be hard to see way down there. Has anyone else had this problem or have a suggestion for this frustrated red neck? I'm computer challenged so I can't include photos until my wife returns in a couple of days. Thank you in advance and you can berate me if you must for trying to get too fancy.

No, it was 35 ftlbs. I thought 30 to 35 with pistons and rings would be about right too. I'm going to take it back apart after spinning it a few times to look at the squish pattern on the seals. Any other suggestions? Wish someone else had a torque reading they had taken. Thanks, Carl

I've put it together with the external rope seal. The crankshaft was effortless to turn before the seal and now requires 35 ftlbs to turn. I've read before, somewhere, what this number should be but can't recall where. What do you all think? Is 35 ftbls too much resistance for turning a crank in new bearings and only the rear seal installed? Thanks, Carl

Have compared both cranks side by side with calipers. Both have 4 bolt flanges. Plymouthy refers to crank "109" and I don't know where to find that reference on the crank. As I stated the casting numbers are the same (952068). Thanks for the replies, Carl

My 1950 Plymouth 217 ended up having a bad crankshaft. Friend gives me cracked block lying on ground for years. Took it apart and crank was standard. Had it cleaned & polished. I was re-reading manual on engine assembly and discover that the 1953 crankshaft can't be used in any earlier engine. The difference appears to be the rear oil seal. Measured everything imagineable and the cranks are the same with same casting number. I hope to put the '53 crank in the '50 block and use the '50 rear oil seal. Will it work? Is there a problem with the front oil seal? Are the front oil seals and pulleys the same? They look it. Appreciate any advice. Thanks, Carl

I took my 218 apart for the second time and this time it was not at my own shop. When I went to put down my main caps I ended up moving them again. Prett sure they're in the right order but don't now if they are turned around. Do the casting numbers all end up on the same side? In other words, are the casting numbers on all the mains toward the front of the crank shaft or the back? Yep! I feel like a dummy.

My favorite mix for stuck pistons is half transmission fluid and half acetone.

In trying to remove the my pitman arm my rather strong friend took a mighty blow to the arm and missed it and hit the bottom of the steering box. It is warped so as you can see it. The second seal was tough to get in and it distorted it so it leaked. In getting the seal out I had to drill into the seal to put puller screws in. I drilled into the pitman shaft where the seal runs. Except for the initial leak, all problems are caused by bad luck and my poor skills. We can fix all these but thought it would just be easier, since the engine is back out and the front end is off, to replace the box. Conflicting information from various sources continually fall my way. Now I'm looking at the steering box out of my '53 Dodge truck. That box is out on the ground already. I really am enjoying my hobby. The good news is that the crankshaft that my friend gave me from a broken block checked out as standard. Just have to polish it.

Hugh Forrest, Do you recommend that I send my intake and carburators off to Ashe and let him do his thing on them along with steeing up the linkage? What carburators did you end up with? Is the extra money worth it for headers versus my friend adding another outlet and block-off plate to my stock manifold? Thanks, Carl

Good replies, both. By the condition of this head I'd be very suprised of it's cracked. The previous owner had not run it. My question as to the cam, I knew that there wouldn't be cam just for this head but was seeking advise or recommendations as to who has/makes one that has proven good results with the aluminum headed engines. I'm putting this on the orininal 218.

When I bought my P19 two years ago it came with an offy twin carb manifold and an Edmonds aluminum head but not on thr motor. They head looks like it had been bolted down at some time because it has washer scars around the head bolts. It might have been sandblasted or something but the rest of it looks unused. The Edmonds head has helicoils in each hole. Did it come that way new? Could they have been added to reduce the diameter of the sparkplug hole? Who's got the cam to use with this set up? Who's got advise as to whether or not I should go this route or should I just split the manifold and go with the two B&B carburators? (Engine is already out as it had crankshaft issues not revealed by previous owner. Never's happened before, has it.)

Had a freeze plug pop out after a new engine rebuild. It was the rear one on the driver's side. I replaced it by ginding a ball end on a fourt foot piece of 3/4 inch rebar. Had a freind hold it off the newly painted fender and I hit it soundly from outside the car with at 3 lb hammer. Still holding. I now carry a couple of the screw in metal freeze plugs in the trunk. I didn't know these existed but O'Reilly's ordered them for me. Hope I never use them.

Are you sure the Wayfarer has a longer whellbase than the P19 Business Coupe? The larger cars of both brands are something like 7 inches longer, I know, but that length is made up in the transmission so they can both use the same driveshaft. This means to me that the length between the smaller of both brands have their length differneces in the frame between the wheelbase under the cabin of the bodies. As I have removed the steering box I left the "tube" or "jacket" in place along with the shifting mechanism & rods attached to it. The part that I need is the box itself and the pitman shaft. I can use my shaft steering which is where the length would be, in the Dodge box along with the Dodge pitman arm if the gears seem compatable. Does anyone know of the steering boxes bolt to the frame the same as the Plymouth? Will the Plymouth pitman arm on the Dodge pitman shaft? I know that the Hollander Manual of these years lists the and Plymouth & Dodge as having different parts numbers. Thanks for your help and patience.

Have got the steering box removed from "50 Plymouth Business Coupe. Will a 1949 Dodge Wafarer Coupe's steering box fit/interchange into the '50 Business Coupe?

I'm guessing that dpollo means that the "jacket" and tube lengths are different. I'm thinking that ptwothree is saying to change the steering box to the '54 and use the '50 shaft to insure that the length stays the same. Ptwothree also refers to gaskets. I am refering to the seal for the pitman arm which is allowing all the grease to leak down the pitman arm. Thanks, Does anyone else know if the steering shafts are the same length? Carl

Steering column in '50 Business Coupe leaked from day one. I've replaced the pitman arm seal twice. Taking engine back out so it's time to fix the leak. I have a '53 or'54 Plymouth that I've never paid much attention to. Will the steering shaft from the 53-54 fit in the '50 steering tube? The '50 tube is already repainted, the horn & turn signals work, and I've rebuilt the steering wheel. I'm just concerned that the frame mount and the rod length are the same. Where's the best place to get a new box to frame rubber mount? Thanks, Carl

After I read all the air conditioner posts on this forum I went with Old Air Products. Their unit appears to have the smallest footprint available. Their least expensive model has manual controls which enabled me to use the factory controls on my 1950, P19. In the cabin the only clue that the car has air are the four under-dash round outlets. The challenge on these flathead sixes is the fact that there's only one pulley on the crankshaft. Making the mount for the alternator & compressor took some time. Mine works in the shop but the car has less than 50 miles on it but I'm confident that it's going to do OK. If one starts to build such a mount you've got to remember to drive the alternator first and run the compressor off of it. If the air conditioner gives you trouble on the road you can cut the air belt and get home.

I have a P19 and another '50 2dr. Neither has this brace. My 4dr prts car was too far gone to show any remainder of such. Should all '50 Plymouths have this brace? Thanks, Carl

Medium_Jon, I ordered a petronix off of ebay just because there seems to be a lot of refrence to them on this site. packratc