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About packratc

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Middle Tennessee
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    50 P19, 65 Plymouth, 68 Barracuda, 49 dodge

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    old, too many mopars, broke
  • Occupation


  • Location
    middle tennessee
  • Interests
  1. 1953 Plymouth crankshaft

    No, it was 35 ftlbs. I thought 30 to 35 with pistons and rings would be about right too. I'm going to take it back apart after spinning it a few times to look at the squish pattern on the seals. Any other suggestions? Wish someone else had a torque reading they had taken. Thanks, Carl
  2. 1953 Plymouth crankshaft

    I've put it together with the external rope seal. The crankshaft was effortless to turn before the seal and now requires 35 ftlbs to turn. I've read before, somewhere, what this number should be but can't recall where. What do you all think? Is 35 ftbls too much resistance for turning a crank in new bearings and only the rear seal installed? Thanks, Carl
  3. 1953 Plymouth crankshaft

    Have compared both cranks side by side with calipers. Both have 4 bolt flanges. Plymouthy refers to crank "109" and I don't know where to find that reference on the crank. As I stated the casting numbers are the same (952068). Thanks for the replies, Carl
  4. 1953 Plymouth crankshaft

    My 1950 Plymouth 217 ended up having a bad crankshaft. Friend gives me cracked block lying on ground for years. Took it apart and crank was standard. Had it cleaned & polished. I was re-reading manual on engine assembly and discover that the 1953 crankshaft can't be used in any earlier engine. The difference appears to be the rear oil seal. Measured everything imagineable and the cranks are the same with same casting number. I hope to put the '53 crank in the '50 block and use the '50 rear oil seal. Will it work? Is there a problem with the front oil seal? Are the front oil seals and pulleys the same? They look it. Appreciate any advice. Thanks, Carl
  5. Rebuilding a P18 - Do I need line boring?

    I took my 218 apart for the second time and this time it was not at my own shop. When I went to put down my main caps I ended up moving them again. Prett sure they're in the right order but don't now if they are turned around. Do the casting numbers all end up on the same side? In other words, are the casting numbers on all the mains toward the front of the crank shaft or the back? Yep! I feel like a dummy.
  6. Questions questions questions

    My favorite mix for stuck pistons is half transmission fluid and half acetone.
  7. Steering Column Interchange

    In trying to remove the my pitman arm my rather strong friend took a mighty blow to the arm and missed it and hit the bottom of the steering box. It is warped so as you can see it. The second seal was tough to get in and it distorted it so it leaked. In getting the seal out I had to drill into the seal to put puller screws in. I drilled into the pitman shaft where the seal runs. Except for the initial leak, all problems are caused by bad luck and my poor skills. We can fix all these but thought it would just be easier, since the engine is back out and the front end is off, to replace the box. Conflicting information from various sources continually fall my way. Now I'm looking at the steering box out of my '53 Dodge truck. That box is out on the ground already. I really am enjoying my hobby. The good news is that the crankshaft that my friend gave me from a broken block checked out as standard. Just have to polish it.
  8. Edmonds Head qestions and problems

    Hugh Forrest, Do you recommend that I send my intake and carburators off to Ashe and let him do his thing on them along with steeing up the linkage? What carburators did you end up with? Is the extra money worth it for headers versus my friend adding another outlet and block-off plate to my stock manifold? Thanks, Carl
  9. Edmonds Head qestions and problems

    Good replies, both. By the condition of this head I'd be very suprised of it's cracked. The previous owner had not run it. My question as to the cam, I knew that there wouldn't be cam just for this head but was seeking advise or recommendations as to who has/makes one that has proven good results with the aluminum headed engines. I'm putting this on the orininal 218.
  10. When I bought my P19 two years ago it came with an offy twin carb manifold and an Edmonds aluminum head but not on thr motor. They head looks like it had been bolted down at some time because it has washer scars around the head bolts. It might have been sandblasted or something but the rest of it looks unused. The Edmonds head has helicoils in each hole. Did it come that way new? Could they have been added to reduce the diameter of the sparkplug hole? Who's got the cam to use with this set up? Who's got advise as to whether or not I should go this route or should I just split the manifold and go with the two B&B carburators? (Engine is already out as it had crankshaft issues not revealed by previous owner. Never's happened before, has it.)
  11. Question on freeze plugs?

    Had a freeze plug pop out after a new engine rebuild. It was the rear one on the driver's side. I replaced it by ginding a ball end on a fourt foot piece of 3/4 inch rebar. Had a freind hold it off the newly painted fender and I hit it soundly from outside the car with at 3 lb hammer. Still holding. I now carry a couple of the screw in metal freeze plugs in the trunk. I didn't know these existed but O'Reilly's ordered them for me. Hope I never use them.
  12. Steering Column Interchange

    Are you sure the Wayfarer has a longer whellbase than the P19 Business Coupe? The larger cars of both brands are something like 7 inches longer, I know, but that length is made up in the transmission so they can both use the same driveshaft. This means to me that the length between the smaller of both brands have their length differneces in the frame between the wheelbase under the cabin of the bodies. As I have removed the steering box I left the "tube" or "jacket" in place along with the shifting mechanism & rods attached to it. The part that I need is the box itself and the pitman shaft. I can use my shaft steering which is where the length would be, in the Dodge box along with the Dodge pitman arm if the gears seem compatable. Does anyone know of the steering boxes bolt to the frame the same as the Plymouth? Will the Plymouth pitman arm on the Dodge pitman shaft? I know that the Hollander Manual of these years lists the and Plymouth & Dodge as having different parts numbers. Thanks for your help and patience.
  13. Steering Column Interchange

    Have got the steering box removed from "50 Plymouth Business Coupe. Will a 1949 Dodge Wafarer Coupe's steering box fit/interchange into the '50 Business Coupe?
  14. Steering Column Interchange

    I'm guessing that dpollo means that the "jacket" and tube lengths are different. I'm thinking that ptwothree is saying to change the steering box to the '54 and use the '50 shaft to insure that the length stays the same. Ptwothree also refers to gaskets. I am refering to the seal for the pitman arm which is allowing all the grease to leak down the pitman arm. Thanks, Does anyone else know if the steering shafts are the same length? Carl
  15. Steering Column Interchange

    Steering column in '50 Business Coupe leaked from day one. I've replaced the pitman arm seal twice. Taking engine back out so it's time to fix the leak. I have a '53 or'54 Plymouth that I've never paid much attention to. Will the steering shaft from the 53-54 fit in the '50 steering tube? The '50 tube is already repainted, the horn & turn signals work, and I've rebuilt the steering wheel. I'm just concerned that the frame mount and the rod length are the same. Where's the best place to get a new box to frame rubber mount? Thanks, Carl