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Los_Control last won the day on December 9 2018

Los_Control had the most liked content!

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About Los_Control

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
  • Location
    West Texas
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B1B


  • Location
    Eastrn WA
  • Interests

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  1. If it was mine, I may think about filling the bed with fresh cow manure. Just to keep people away from it, and me Just drive the crap out of it. Thats just me though Love your work and results
  2. What I would look at. Just to add to it, when I looked at mine. I had so much calcium build up, I could not run a fence wire through the tube. With some effort, I did get my tube cleared, replacing it may be a better option.
  3. I doubt the water pump is not putting out enough water ... though it may need to be replaced. I would bet, pull the water pump and you will find the water distribution tube behind it is clogged. This will stop the flow of water through the block, can be replaced without to much blood loss. I would also pull the welch plugs and clean the casting sand out of the block while working on it.
  4. Here is my 2 cents, worth exactly what you paid for it. These engines are solid and will take a lot of abuse, just do not run them over 3000 rpm. If they sit for a long time, you can bet will be 3" of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan. You want to pull the pan and clean it. I bought a complete engine gasket rebuild set from napa, think it was $110 These engines are also known to get stuck valves after sitting, Just because you get the pistons freed up, does not mean the valves will be free ... yank the head. One motor that had been sitting since 1978, had 5 stuck valves. Pull the head and rotate the motor, I got 4 valves freed up in a hour or less, the 5th was more stubborn and needed a little more love. Thats my opinion, buy the gasket set, yank the head, yank the pan, get it moving freely and then lets talk about other issues you may, or may not find.
  5. I had a 1969 Triumph 650 hard tail, that bike was so light, could "almost" stand still and just balance it while standing up on the pegs. The one and only time I participated in a slow race, I was riding against big Hogs ... I made the first round and laughed ... This is cheating and I dropped out of the race. Good times indeed
  6. Sounds like a good plan ... had a friend that broke down on the road in a older motor home, they charged him $1k to build a aluminum tank. Was a lot of money, but was a nice tank. And it got him back on the road to get home. When I bought my tank, I was working on a 1949 3/4 ton. With the longer wheel base, that truck already had the factory rear bracket for the gas tank. I assume all the 3/4 tons and up have the bracket. But it is a simple triangle shaped bracket and probably faster to build a new one, then to grind the rivets off the frame to remove a older one. I was told by tanks over the phone, when I ordered mine. Something about the angle of the spout is different, I was going to have to use a hack saw and cut the spout back some, and then would need to use a longer rubber hose then original to connect the filler tube. Just a couple mods and the tank works for these years also. Just saying, Tanks never said anything about modifying the floor. Just my humble opinion, I think tanks is a viable option, while a custom stainless steel is a better tank.
  7. $2000 cash 1957 Dodge D200 tow truck all original with, what I believe is the 318 poly v8 engine it still turns freely by hand the truck is sturdy and has very little structural rust, its located in Lubbock Texas I can deliver it to you for $1. Per mile. only $2000 cash or possibly trade https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/430440447503345/
  8. What I find interesting, hope you can see it in the photo ... The front of the tank is 1" from outside edge of frame, while rear is 3" from outside edge. This is all factory , I assume there may be a reason for it, I dunno what it is. Curious why you do not want to use the Tanks version already made? Sure with enough money, can build a nicer version .... I bought the tanks version along with a new sending unit. Not installed it yet, but it looks like decent quality to me, there is one bracket that needs to be made to mount the rear of the tank but pretty simple to do.
  9. Thats a good idea how you vented the doors, keeps the sheet metal from rusting away
  10. I have a 1949 1/2 ton, I assume yours is the same ... if you have a 3/4 ton for example, the wheel base is different and the location of the rear cross member has moved. From cross member to center of the tank hole is 21 and 3/4" I think thats what you need, since you are making your own tank and assume mounting bracket, you need to do the math for those. My original tank though, is 19 & 1/4" from center of spout to edge of tank and start of the original mounting bracket, which mounts on crossmember
  11. When I worked on my heater .... no real tricks here, just a flap that opens and close controlled by a cable ... something is binding on yours
  12. I think it finally sunk in, I do have to admit to having a hard head. Been awhile since I started this thread. Since then I had to do a bunch of work on my house, that kept me from working on projects like my truck I did pick up a better compressor for the shop .... and a radio! This compressor is still a bit weak in the knee's, twin cylinder, 30 gallon, 5.7 cfm @ 90psi. I have 1/2 a chance to do something with it compared to my old little compressor to run nail guns. Exact same problem, the hose fills up so quick that it clogs the air .... you control the flow of sand from the bottom of the tank, you do not allow more sand in the hose then you can remove from the hose .... guy can actually get something done .... A wise man once told me this ;D Sometimes I need to be hit with a 2X4 to understand a idea ..... Thanks again Also I got some other advice from another forum, I built a frame that sits on a 5 Gallon bucket, window screen ... and sift the sand through the screen before putting it in the blast pot.
  13. Been pretty lucky here so far. We have been in the 90,s, then it cooled back down. It did prompt me to get my window ac in my office installed. Today we had 65 in the morning, upper 80's for afternoon .... just wish it would stay this way year round
  14. my only opinion, worth exactly what you paid for it. These old engines had a very small selection of options when they were made ... 30 weight seems to be the most common. Todays oils are way ahead of the curve, compared to the 1950's. I am only yard driving my truck at this point, changed the oil twice since waking up the engine, using castrol gtx 10/40 I figure it is 5 times better then anything available at the time, and will work for me today. I also run the same oil in my 350 sbc. With that being said, We inherited the wife's mother, 1993 dodge caravan. The father inlaw was running the same 10/40 Castrol in it, and he said it used a little bit of oil. We drove it 1800 miles on fresh oil change, WA > TX, and it was a quart low. I switched the oil to 5/30, and it no longer uses oil in between 3k mile oil changes.. The car simply likes the thinner oil better and told us what it wants. ...... Possible that we changed the name of the car, father inlaw named it "The *******" We changed her name to , "Lady Bell" Guess my point is, we can ask, we can try, but time and experience and a little experimentation will lead us to the answer. Anything you use today, will be better then what we had then.
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