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Los_Control last won the day on April 6

Los_Control had the most liked content!

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About Los_Control

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  • Gender
  • Location
    West Texas
  • My Project Cars
    1949 B1B


  • Location
    Eastrn WA
  • Interests

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  1. Los_Control

    ANSWERED New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    On my truck, I have 2 small 1/2" holes up high on the firewall, one is for the vacuum wiper hose, the other is for the cowl vent hose. the holes sit diagonal of each other, the lower right is for the cowl drain.
  2. op has a decision to make, and it really is his decision and I support him. His car is a extremely nice example of that particular model. I think it looks very good. My neighbour bought a 54 ford shoe box a couple months ago, I would venture to say the fit and finish is every bit as nice as the p15 listed in this thread. It has the 5.0/aod with a modern rear end, He picked it up for $7k. This car is beautiful to look at, new white interior, new paint is flawless the mechanical work seems to be of good quality, neighbour loves to drive it. But nobody wanted to buy it, and eventually sold it for $7k I would say the op car is worth more then $7k the way it sits, and the mods will bring the value down .... is op choice, I only ask the op not scrap the original drive train and sell it to someone else restoring one.
  3. Los_Control

    coil need to be grounded?

    Hrmmm, on the shelf I have 10/40 engine oil, wd-40, pb-blaster, ATF, I have some clear air tool oil for my nail guns, lubricates the rubber o-rings and provided by the tool manufacturer, I have some honing oil to sharpen knifes with ???? .... Tomorrow when the stores are open can go to town and buy some specific oil, nothing open here on Sunday. What oil would you suggest? I really think this stuck accelerator pump is the issue, and with no advise I would most likely use the 3 in one oil on new accelerator pump also.
  4. Los_Control

    Hound dog hauler

    I am not actually trying to run or use a flush, just straight clean new oil, I figure it will take a few oil changes to get it looking clean. But this time I will use the marvel mystery oil in it, see if it will save me from pulling the pistons and re-ringing it. I know some people that swear by adding thick honey products into the oil, like Lucas .... I will not add products like that. Although I do think they have a purpose and a place, same with sea foam or marvel mystery oil. I feel they are good products and have a time and place to be used.
  5. Los_Control

    coil need to be grounded?

    By sediment, I meant was a layer of mud on the bottom of the float bowl ... sure it was not actual mud, but was brown and wiped up like mud. Float level seems fine ... there is fuel in the intake, but may be from me priming the engine a few times with a can of gas. The accelerator pump is not working. It felt stiff when I assembled it, kinda figured it would work itself out. Had good leather on it, I put some light 3 in 1 oil on it .... maybe to much and it just to fat to slide up and down in the bore. It just sits in one spot and the gas pedal moves the spring up and down. Need to fix this for sure. I do have the new accelerator pump in the kit to install. I suspect with the accelerator pump stuck, it was allowing fuel to pour through the carb while turning the engine over, why a inch of fuel sitting in the intake manifold maybe??? Old cars are fun 😜
  6. Los_Control

    Bench seat mounts

    I have a xtra cab chevy, somebody put some real nice bucket seats out of a Tahoe in it. But they fit really stupid in the truck because they do not fold forward more then 2 degrees and had no access to the back seat. I found a guy parting out another chevy and grabbed the stock bench seat for my truck, much better and the guy took my bucket seats in trade + cash for the bench. Now am tempted to go back and see what he would sell the bucket seats for ... he owns a mechanic shop and wheels deals. Just feel silly selling them to him, then a month later come back and want to buy them My stock bench needs some rust repair, the bottom springs/cushion is missing, going to be some work putting it back together.
  7. Los_Control

    coil need to be grounded?

    I ordered a carb rebuild kit and the other day I completely disassembled the carb and ended up just cleaning and oiling it .... It had a lot of sediment on the bowl, and the jets were gummy from old gas, I cleaned everything up and made sure the check balls were free and moving, oiled the accelerator pump and I put it back together. Looking inside the throat I see fuel sitting in the bottom, that should not be. Pulled a plug and it is wet Probably the inlet not shutting off
  8. Los_Control

    coil need to be grounded?

    ok now I feel like a dummy, just happened to be where the points were. .. I have a ok spark going to the plugs. Still not trying to fire with either .... wondering if distributor jumped back in 180 out .... or is it my carb tune up
  9. Los_Control

    coil need to be grounded?

    ok Sunday brunch of pancakes and bacon is over, out to the shop I go and thanks for the troubleshooting tips. Lets see what it is, I know is something simple.
  10. Curious how long you have had the car, the condition the current running gear is in. These flathead 6's can be very reliable, they are no hotrod, but with some minor mods you might be very pleased. The mopar brakes if setup properly work very well, there are disk brake conversion kits available for those, sure you can source some dropped spindles also. And installing a modern rear end is not a real chore .... you have options for the transmission, maybe a T5 behind the flatty? Because these older mopars are not that popular, you will not find as many vendors supplying parts and kits like a chevy or a ford. You will need to practice your fabrication skills to do what you want with the ford driveline.
  11. Los_Control

    coil need to be grounded?

    It is 6 volt still. I also took the carburetor apart and cleaned it, when I tried to start, it was not firing, I shot some either in it and no change, so looked at spark. Thats when I saw I had juice coming into the coil but nothing coming out. I scratched my head and walked away to think about it, leaving the key on, a few min later returned and turned off the key, coil was very hot and uncomfortable to touch. I do not think the coil would be that hot under normal conditions, unless motor was running and hot also. Possible that the points were open when I used my test light? Then would be no ground ? Reading that you would get a flashing light as the motor spins, points open and close? I have the old coil here, I can hook it up and see if get same thing. I have to be honest, I ran into this yesterday afternoon. The weather was so nice after a week of rain, I went out and mowed the grass and never got back to this problem to look more.
  12. Seems like a stupid question, bit puzzled here. spark was fine and motor ran. I pulled the distributor and generator, oil fill tube to pull the welsh plugs and flush the block. When I put it back together, I left the coil bracket off, doing some work to it and have new wires ordered ... just want to start the motor and idle in driveway to check coolant problem. Problem is, I have juice to the coil with the key on, but no juice on the other post going to the distributor. The only thing different is the metal coil is not mounted to the metal coil bracket , just sitting loosely on the frame and probably some dirt as a insulator. thus my question, does the body of coil need to be grounded? I am thinking it does not, but then this is a brand new coil and hate to think it went bad already. I know some coils require a resistor, not sure how would know if this one does or not. And I have not seen a ballast resistor on these old trucks .... kinda at a loss here, will fix the coil bracket and then get the coil mounted, kinda thinking this is not the problem and looking for ideas.
  13. Los_Control

    Hound dog hauler

    I am starting to feel a plan here, I do need to change the oil. I am using castrol 10/40 GTX, I know some say to not use a detergent oil, I figure to keep changing the oil until the motor is clean and the oil stays clean. I will add the mm to the new oil, Goal is to start it back up and check the cooling issue is fixed, then get some antifreeze in it for winter. Then drain the oil while it is warm, first oil change it was cold and thick. Then when I move on to brakes and wiring, will be a few weeks to get completed, I can add some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders, and let the rings soak some more. If no improvement on compression by this time, I will prepare to pull the head and pan and go with new rings and bearings if the cylinders mic out good. I suspect at some point this motor has been rebuilt, the original speedo showed 30k, I assume it to be 130K miles on the truck. Pretty sure by 100k these motors would need to be rebuilt. And the engine has silver paint on it, I doubt that it is original 69 year old paint on the engine, was removed at some time and new paint added when worked on. Very possible, all was done was rings and bearings then? Possible the rings are not stuck, cylinders just wore out and needs a rebuild. Will be a pandora's box opening this engine up. Would feel more comfortable starting on the engine, after the brakes and wiring completed, want to keep momentum going.
  14. Los_Control

    Hound dog hauler

    Sears did not list that one, this is the one https://www.sears.com/wilton-11106-6-steel-bench-vise-3/p-SPM8864483623?plpSellerId=CPO Outlets&prdNo=15&blockNo=15&blockType=G15 I did not, The gentleman I bought the truck from, he knew some history on the previous owner and use to see the truck running around town about 10 years ago, I say closer to 15 years it has been sitting. I had to fix a bad wire going from coil to distributor, but it started and ran with very little effort. Of course I soaked the cylinders with atf for a week and also did a fresh oil change. Had to fix a busted T-stat housing bolt, and been fighting the blocked coolant passages since. So it has very little run time on the motor since it was wakened from a deep sleep. Think the cooling issue is fixed now, maybe start it back up today and check .... still waiting for my new plug wires to come in the mail, the old ones are pretty crusty and falling apart when you pick them up. I am hoping it will not take to much $$$ to keep this motor, it is the original engine and it matches the number on the title, to me that is kinda cool and like to keep it that way. Same time I have another 1949 truck sitting in another state, now is turning into a parts truck for this one, and I have a rebuilt 1952 flathead 218. But it is not the original. So I need to make a choice, will I put big bucks into this engine to keep it original, or would I swap in the rebuilt engine I already own? Thinking just maybe, I get the brakes and lights fixed, get it registered and take her out for a drive maybe this motor will improve on compression. As is it has some blow by and puffs some smoke when you goose it, I can live with that for awhile as other things get fixed.
  15. Los_Control

    Bench seat mounts

    Just looked at my 49 pilothouse and not even close to what you show, probably from a car

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