Dennis46PU

I wanted to this year but too many obligations this year. I need a wheel for my WC half ton and a few other small pieces.

Really like this build, however I would be tickled to just have a stock drivetrain that was in the Dak frame. This gives me incentive to start looking for a Dak to slip under my 46 WC. Updating or rebuilding the original drivetrain just seems out of reach for what I would end up with.

Beings I have a bent front wheel and need to replace the rear axle, what axle and wheels should I look for. My rear axle is an original and leaks out both hubs. I decided long ago I would be better off looking for a new rear than trying to find a machine shop to fix what ever needs repaired. It's been a long time since I had the hubs off and at the time figured new seals wouldn't last long but I went ahead and installed them anyway just to get it moved out of the way and an occasional drive over to Home Depot. It lasted a couple years and few miles. Even if I do fix the rear axle, I need to find another rim and I could also use one for a spare since I don't have one. Anybodies help is appreciated.

Have you considered replacing that mechanical pump with an electric pump? My mechanical pump failed recently that is only 1-1/2 year old. I'm replacing it with a Carter electric vane pump because I'm tired of the problems with the mechanical pump.

I completely rewired my 46 WC in the past year with cloth covered wire trying to closely follow the factory specifications. When I added turn signals and some other accessories that all went out the window as far as color correct, but I stayed with cloth covered wire on everything and it's totally done from connector to connector. Have anybody considered using a reproduction harness from any source? Knowing how much I spent on wiring, terminals, shrink tubing, etc., and how much got wasted I'm not so sure I wouldn't have been better off with a harness already built and complete. I've been told this company is about the only one that makes point quality harness yet. http://www.riwire.com/

Did you replace the brake lines and hoses?

They might be jetted wrong, but would be close and for the price... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-47-DODGE-FARGO-TRUCK-CARB-/112541456080?hash=item1a33fe56d0:g:gTIAAOSw7ZlZocyl http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-56-DODGE-TRUCK-CARB-/112541454859?hash=item1a33fe520b:g:l7wAAOSwv2RZocve A few others that might work, just look at the sellers listing.

Jerry, did you change the type of u-joint from your transmission? What did you change when you put the Dakota rear end in?

That looks like an International Harvestor emblem.

My truck had the battery under the hood from a PO, and it was a mess. First thing I did was pull it out and made a new bracket inside the frame where the original location was.

Forgot to mention, I dump a bottle of STP in from time to time also. Either that or Lucas oil stabilizer.

You might have a lot of salvageable parts there. I could use a rebuildable engine. Looking at the background in your picture, you're a long ways away from me.

The trans mounting holes on the front housing have a different pattern for a 4 speed as opposed to a 3 speed. 3 Speed trans in a 1/2 ton was standard equipment.

My engine is worn and I run O'Reilly 20W-50, (cheap). I also cleaned my pan out before running it. Just look at the container and it will say if it's non detergent. I never run non detergent in anything.

Actually haven't had any trouble but haven't been impatient in traffic to know that. How many amps does the horn in our trucks WC and pilot house models draw? I know my Ames horn in a different car pulls 4 to 5 amps and while in parades it gets used a lot. Heat has never been a problem with 6 amp diodes, however in the future I will probably use 10 amp the next time.