Buttiman53

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About Buttiman53

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lacey, WA
  • Interests
    Vintage cars, trucks, motorcycles, aircraft
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge B3B 1/2-ton w/ 3-speed & Fluid Drive
    1956 Plymouth Savoy (previous)
    1953 Dodge Coronet (previous)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Married w/ 5 children
  • Occupation
    Water Quality Professional

Recent Profile Visitors

84 profile views
  1. The tie rod on my B3B also has a bend. Always thought it was part of the tighter turning radius feature for the "B" series.
  2. My truck came to me with an after-market choke knob and cable. When I went through a small parts box that came with the truck, I found the original choke knob. Looks like water leaked into the box for some time, and the center metal is totally rusted away. I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to disassemble the knob. I've tried tracking down a replacement, but they seem to be rare as hen's teeth. Has anyone ever refurnished a dash knob?
  3. Yeah, I know they're suppose to smell like that. It's just that my truck is a daily driver, taking me to work each and every day. And though everyone think it's a cool ride, a lot comment on the recognizable odor whenever it's around. Jury's still out on whether I will address it or not. I appreciate the advice to check if there's excessive blow-by going on. I suspect not, but need to confirm it. Much thanks to Alshere59 and JBNeal for their references. Exactly what I wanted to know.
  4. The fumes are definitely coming out of the "road draft tube." The rusted-out cab floor doesn't help the situation. I'm repairing that soon. It still makes for a smelly, ol' truck to anyone around it.
  5. I'm tired of smelling hot motor oil fumes. Has anyone modified their flathead with a positive crankcase ventilation setup? I was wondering if there are dedicated parts for this conversion out there, or if it's done on your own with common plumbing supplies. Thanks.
  6. I found a rebuilt GGW 6001 generator on eBay for $185 and bought it. Installed it yesterday, and have never seen the ammeter needle move as much as it moves now! Charges like a big dog! I bought the generator from Bill Jungck of "Custom Alternators and Starters" in Happy Valley,Oregon. (503) 777-7172 www.pmxalternators.com. He sells on eBay as "sunflower20005."
  7. I know this is getting "off-post," but..... My B3B-108's serial number is 85320376. The "Model Chart and Serial Number Guide" found on the DPETCA website lists 85313701 as the first number for 1952, and no ending serial number for that year. The "Deciphering your 1948-53 Dodge truck code" guidance also found on the DPETCA website lists serial numbers starting at 85313701 as 1952-53 model year B3Bs made in San Leandro, and 85322001 as the starting serial numbers for B3Bs built in 1953. This overlap has always confused me. The registration for my truck states 1953 as the year, so I always figured it was either built later in the production run, or shipped in 1953. It has the round rear fenders.
  8. Yes, I polarized it. The truck was set up as a negative ground when I got it. I change the battery cables around to a positive ground, and the ammeter needle read backwards. I polarized the system, and it fixed it. Generator worked great since, until I tore it apart.
  9. Well, I replaced the bearing in my generator this morning. Good news is, the growling noise went away. Bad news is, now the generator doesn't work. I noticed while replacing the bearing that it was an old NAPA rebuild, and looked pretty long in the tooth. Brushes looked good and made good contact. Commutator looked pretty worn, and insulation was coming off some of the windings. So, now I'm in the market for a remanufactured generator. Found one on eBay for $200, but it has a broken tab that needs welding. The only other one I find is what DCM offers for $250 ($350 including $100 core charge). Are there any other sources out there to consider? Thanks.
  10. Thanks for the info. It's a late B3B made in San Leandro in 1953.
  11. Never mind. Turns out Napa, AutoZone, and probably other part houses carry both the ball bearing and brass bushing. Sorry I didn't check sooner. Got worried I would have trouble finding them.
  12. I noticed today, while troubleshooting my generator bearing issues, that the crankshaft on my '53 B3B has a noticeable wobble, mostly at idle. I took the fan belt off and tried to moved the pulley but it seemed snug. Wanted to know if this is "normal" for a 64-year old truck, and if anybody else has ever noticed the same thing. Hope it's not an indication of things (bad) to come.
  13. I figured some of you folks have been down this road before, so I thought I'd ask. Was out driving my '53 B3B yesterday during a cold Washington morning, with the heater blasting away as best it could. Once the cab warmed up I turned off the heater, but swore I could still hear the fan running (it's a noisy fan - another project). Figured it was either the water pump or generator, so today I took the fan belt off and started the engine up cold. It's definitely the generator. Sounds like one of the bearings ran dry and is now growling at me. I'd to know what the numbers are for both bearings, and possible sources. I could tear it apart and get this info myself but my truck is a daily driver,and my only means of getting to work each day. I need to expedite the process as much as possible. Also, I see on the manual diagram that one of the bearings is a sealed unit, and the other a sleeve. I'm hoping I don't have to fabricate the sleeve bearing, if it turns out bad. Thanks for your help.
  14. I like the one Reg posted. Looks straight forward enough, and I like the brass. Now, the hunt is on. Thanks, all.