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nkeiser

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    28
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About nkeiser

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge 3/4 ton B4C

Converted

  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • Interests
    yard work, welding, tinkering, brewing

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

543 profile views
  1. I stumbled across this page the other day while looking for the same information. I haven't started wiring yet, so I'm no help aside from this link. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html
  2. I just had a 218 rebuilt. I paid $1900 and dropped off a completely disassembled engine that only needed finished honed and picked up a completely assembled and painted engine. I also provided a few new parts. The actual final cost was probably close to $3k if you include machine work I had done elsewhere and the parts I provided.
  3. I did this conversion on my 53 B4C. I had to put the castle nuts on backwards (per the instructions) to be able to get the cotter pin in. The stock nuts only had three slots which didn't leave much thread engagement. I bought new castle nuts that had a lot more slots to increase the thread engagement--still on backwards.
  4. The basic benefits and higher lift and more duration which allow more air and fuel into the engine. The crazy stuff occurs with the lobe overlap and separation which I don't fully understand.
  5. I took mine off by myself a few years ago. I haven't put it back on again, so the details are a little foggy. I think it was just a few bolts in the front and back. It wasn't that heave--just a little awkward. Two people would be the easiest to avoid any damage to the paint.
  6. Thanks for the information on that. My '53 B4C with a 218 has the same clutch and pressure plate set up. All of the replacement pressure plates I've seen have been 6six bolt. I was really confused as to why mine was an eight bolt. Where did you find one? I'm likely going to get mine redone at a shop in Kansas City, but always good to know if I need a new one.
  7. I forgot about the seat that was reupholstered with carpet and bailing wire. Old gloves and rags were stuffed in the hole in the seat before the carpet was applied. I can't remember why my dad said he wired the gas pedal to the steering column...
  8. Mine was a farm truck for years, so it was held together with bailing wire. Loose steering due to crappy tie rod ends? Wire them up. Or if the fan falls apart? Weld it together: Not enough fuel flow? Weld it up.
  9. The two bottom horizontal c-channel pieces fit inside the rear fenders to reduce wobble I believe.
  10. I went with 275/60R15 on 15x8 wheels in the back. I went narrower with 235/60R15 on 15x7's in the front to allow for steering clearance.
  11. I had the same issue with the size of bolts on the bell housing being larger than the 7/16 that were supplied. The bell housing is actually tapped for 9/16-12 instead of 5/8. I drilled out the adapter plate to accommodate the larger bolts and used standard bolts as flat head screws (like were supplied) are not available in 9/16. I had to file a few holes to get it to fit, but everything is looking good.
  12. Be prepared to fabricate a new filler neck when you get to that point. These tanks are "bolt in with a new adapter in the back" for the '53 according to the Tanks website. It does in fact bolt in with a new adapter in the back, new hangers in the front, and a new filler neck. Here's the current state of my filler neck. I need to shorten the top section by about an inch and weld on an adapter to go from 2" to 2.25" to meet up with the stock tube.
  13. My uncle tried welding up the lever arm of the fuel pump to get more fuel. It must not have worked because it had an electric fuel pump on it when I got it. It was either the pump going bad, or the lobe on the cam rounding off.
  14. I'm in a holding pattern on mine due to still waiting on the engine to come back from the machine shop. It was a good afternoon to finish up a few little things I've been avoiding. The biggest thing was getting the carburetors back together since the replacement emulsion tubes came in the mail this morning (crushed the old ones by over tightening--lesson learned). Aside from that, I put another coat of paint on the new brake calipers, got the bushings out of the brake pedal and the clutch fork mount, and replaced the stock three slot castle nuts on the front end with new 6 slot castle nuts from RockAuto.
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