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About nkeiser

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge 3/4 ton B4C


  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • Interests
    yard work, welding, tinkering, brewing

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  • Occupation

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573 profile views
  1. Mine was at a machine shop for a year and a half. I tore it completely apart, so they just had to machine it and assemble it. I even left the shop manual. All that they got done was cleaning the block and head, decked the block, and rough honed the cylinders. I finally picked it up and dropped it off at another shop who had it back to me in two months. It wasn't a fancy modern race engine or a SBC that they could do with their eyes closed.
  2. I used these with no issues. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-PG-362-25/?rtype=10
  3. The local steel supply place had it. It's not exhaust tubing. It's standard low carbon steel tubing.
  4. I had a donor tailgate that also had a bad lower tube. I tried hammering a support tube through, but was unsuccessful. I ended up buying a piece of 1.25" steel tubing to replace the existing rolled piece. I also had to widen it out to fit the wide bed. It was easiest to make a blank tailgate then weld the dodge part to it.
  5. My 218 has a very similar looking crack in almost the exact same place. I just got done fixing it this evening with JB Weld Extreme Heat that I had leftover from fixing a hole I made in the exhaust port.
  6. Chlorinated solvents are bad news. They usually pass right through normal gloves and are absorbed into the body. Metalized gloves are the only way to guarantee you won't have any go into your skin.On the other hand, this characteristic makes them great solvents for lots of different things.
  7. I stumbled across this page the other day while looking for the same information. I haven't started wiring yet, so I'm no help aside from this link. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html
  8. I just had a 218 rebuilt. I paid $1900 and dropped off a completely disassembled engine that only needed finished honed and picked up a completely assembled and painted engine. I also provided a few new parts. The actual final cost was probably close to $3k if you include machine work I had done elsewhere and the parts I provided.
  9. I did this conversion on my 53 B4C. I had to put the castle nuts on backwards (per the instructions) to be able to get the cotter pin in. The stock nuts only had three slots which didn't leave much thread engagement. I bought new castle nuts that had a lot more slots to increase the thread engagement--still on backwards.
  10. The basic benefits and higher lift and more duration which allow more air and fuel into the engine. The crazy stuff occurs with the lobe overlap and separation which I don't fully understand.
  11. I took mine off by myself a few years ago. I haven't put it back on again, so the details are a little foggy. I think it was just a few bolts in the front and back. It wasn't that heave--just a little awkward. Two people would be the easiest to avoid any damage to the paint.
  12. Thanks for the information on that. My '53 B4C with a 218 has the same clutch and pressure plate set up. All of the replacement pressure plates I've seen have been 6six bolt. I was really confused as to why mine was an eight bolt. Where did you find one? I'm likely going to get mine redone at a shop in Kansas City, but always good to know if I need a new one.
  13. I forgot about the seat that was reupholstered with carpet and bailing wire. Old gloves and rags were stuffed in the hole in the seat before the carpet was applied. I can't remember why my dad said he wired the gas pedal to the steering column...
  14. Mine was a farm truck for years, so it was held together with bailing wire. Loose steering due to crappy tie rod ends? Wire them up. Or if the fan falls apart? Weld it together: Not enough fuel flow? Weld it up.
  15. The two bottom horizontal c-channel pieces fit inside the rear fenders to reduce wobble I believe.
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