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About nkeiser

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Dodge 3/4 ton B4C


  • Location
    Nevada, MO
  • Interests
    yard work, welding, tinkering, brewing

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  1. nkeiser

    Reproduction Drag Link

    I bought the Rare Parts drag link for my '53. It fit well and was good quality. As you've mentioned, the price was pretty high, but there weren't any other options.
  2. nkeiser

    New gas tanks for pilot house??

    Tanks Inc has them way cheaper than DCM. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/category_id=68/mode=prod/prd349.htm I'm installing one in my '53 B4C this weekend. It''s going to require new brackets in front and rear and a longer filler neck coming out of the tank. Other than that, it fits great.
  3. The engine section of the shop manual has most, if not all, of that information. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/B4_manual/manual.htm
  4. nkeiser

    Welding uh-ohs

    Clean the metal, make sure you have a good ground, check the inside of the door to the wire spool for correct heat and wire feed speed settings for the metal thickness and wire diameter you are using. After that, go with tacks that are spaced a few inches apart to let the metal cool.
  5. nkeiser

    Has my 218 ever been rebuilt?

    Measure the cylinder diameter. Stock is 3.25".
  6. nkeiser

    front shock over the counter '47'

    I used Gabriel part number 82065 from Autozone, $22 each online. They didn't have them in stock at the local store when I checked, but they could order them.
  7. nkeiser

    rear leaf spring pin removel

    I had a similar issue on mine. The driver's side pin came out easily just like in the video. The passenger side one took a lot of cussing and lots of hits from a BFH to finally get it freed up.
  8. nkeiser

    1951 230 Flathead 6 rebuild

    Glad to hear you got it out. I used this setup, and mine came right out. I don't have a slide hammer, so I improvised.
  9. nkeiser

    Disassembly of a 53 B4C

    My 1953 B4C was my dad's high school shop project in 1970-71. It's been a lot of fun tearing it apart and sending pics back of certain "fixes" and getting a story back. His favorite quote has been, "Well, you have to do your apprenticeship on something." My favorite "fix" of his has been the clutch pedal welded to the shaft because they were missing the clamp that holds it in place and wanted to go drive it. The favorite fix I've found that my uncle did was weld a bead on the arm of the fuel pump to try to get more fuel to the carb.
  10. nkeiser

    Tail light bulb contacts

    Most parts stores should have a universal plug that will work. Here's what they look like http://www.wiringproducts.com/universal-single-contact-pigtail-2-pcs.html. I slightly tweaked one to work on a '28 chevy.
  11. nkeiser

    Front front hanger issues

    I was able to spend some time in the shop yesterday and got things figured out. The 11/16-11 tap is the correct size for the front front hangers and pins. I cleaned up the old holes, filled them in with a welder, smoothed out the welds, drilled, and tapped. Luckily, the 37/64 bit that I had purchased for the rustyhope disc brake conversion worked for that size of tap. The tap was too short to reach both sides at once, so I tacked in the test cut and tap I made to keep the threads in time so that the pin could thread through both sides with no issues. I can finally start reassembling the front suspension! Before (this was the good side, forgot to get a picture of the bad side before welding) Getting the thread timing and alignment correct Pic of the backside when prepped for paint. Part number? Painted and ready for re-installation
  12. nkeiser

    Front front hanger issues

    I've checked those sites. Nobody makes this particular part. I did secure new pins, shackles, and bushings from Jegs by way of Rareparts. The part I'm struggling with is the part that is riveted to the frame. I've spent lots of time grinding and drilling them out (what a pain!). The Willy's mount looks like this, but unfortunately the holes aren't threaded. It's also slightly shorter, but that shouldn't matter as long as you replace both sides. My new tap shipped today, so I'll have to play around some. I do like the idea boring out and putting in an insert. I may spend some quality time with my welder this weekend. This is the part that I ordered for the rear fronts. I used these and some 2" angle iron to fabricate a new bracket. https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/suspension/shackles-parts/leaf-spring-to-frame-shackle-bracket-bushing-insert-fits-41-64-mb-gpw-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-m38-m38a1
  13. I have a 1953 3/4 ton (B4C) that was my dad's high school shop project and then a farm truck for years. Anyway, most of the spring hangers have been wallered out. I was able to buy new rear rear mounts. The front rears were ok. I made new rear fronts with some new parts for Willy's and some angle iron. However, I'm stumped on the front front hangers. Fortunately only one is in questionable shape--the other one is good. Has anybody refurbished or found a source for new ones? Willy's hangers are similar, but they are not threaded. I have an 11/16-11 tap ordered (closest I could find) to try to make something work. Does anybody know if this is the correct thread size for that pin (even though it's been truncated). Thanks in advance for the help.