Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by maok

  1. maok

    Mopars in Oz

    Mate you are going to upset a few blokes with this line.
  2. maok

    Mopars in Oz

    Andy has got it completely wrong. It's not Oz, its Stralya.
  3. Hi all, I thought some of you blokes (and gals) would be interested in my engine build. I have been posting these on aaca site but there maybe some interested here. This is my first flathead rebuild, so any advice, tips, criticism, comments will be appreciated, my skin is very thick...:)
  4. Out with the old and in with new...soonish.
  5. On the weekend while driving a bride to her big moment, a fairly loud rattle sound, and a vibration via the clutch pedal, occurred all of a sudden. The sound and vibration discontinued when slowing down to a stop and after driving off at 25mph and less. The sound was just like having a playing card attached to the folks of a child's bicycle rattling on the spokes, but more metallic sounding. This time and previously the sound had suddenly occurred only at high constant speed, now, when I say high speed, I mean sound breaking speed of 30mph...😀 It does seem that it is occurring with centrifugal forces at play, the rattle sound is like from something making contact with a turning part. This has happened a couple of times before but without the vibration and not as loud. I had assumed previously that it was my wire pointer touching the fan belt or fan blade that I had attached to a radiator support bolt to indicate TDC on the pulley. Examining the wire, fan belt and blade showed no sign of contact previously. Because I had felt the vibration via the clutch pedal this time, I opened up the inspection plate of the gearbox for the clutch assembly area thinking it maybe the thrust/throwout bearing, or the return spring had come loose and was making contact with input spline or the clutch assembly. But no such luck, spring is in place doing its job. Having said that, the sound was of more heavier metal sounding rattle. All the parts on the clutch assembly seem to be intact and in place. One other possibility is that I did replace the hose that supplies the grease for the thrust bearing with a fitting attached to a hose and a clamp and that the clamp screw was making contacting to the thrust bearing. I may take the hose off for a while to see if the rattle sound does not happen again. Anyone else have ideas of what it could be or have experienced a similar problem?
  6. I would have to file those down a fair bit to get them in a 3" bore Andy.
  7. Most likely. I guess the fun starts now....lol
  8. Here is the offending piston.
  9. maok

    Removing heat control tap on head

    Is the engine running? If so, started it up and run it for a few minutes to warm it up. See if it moves then.
  10. To be honest, this is the worst time of the year to be in Brisbane, just way too hot for this ex-Melbournian. It wont let up until mid April, and I wont mention Brisbane summer storms and floods. April to October is much more livable. Luckily I installed 75mm insulated roof sheets on my garage and fully lined the walls with insulations as well.
  11. maok

    Just had a 7.2 quake

    This is another view of their situation.
  12. maok

    Just had a 7.2 quake

    They can finally now use their SUV(4x4)...:)
  13. Good news is that I will have the new engine before xmas this time....:) The mystery of the clutch assembly solved. Interestingly, the pressure plate that came with the old engine, the inner circumference was taken out by 5 to 10mm (haven't measured it yet) but had the standard rubber style clutch plate, so there were no clearance issues. But the one in the existing engine with the new style of clutch plate (with the springs) and wider centre hub, the pressure plate inner circumference was NOT taken out, hence the contact on the rivets. Old I don't have a pic of the other pressure plate that the inner circumference has been taken out on previously, it is at the machinist to be balanced with crank. So the new clutch plate will go with the old pressure plate with no clearance issues this time.
  14. Poor Sidney. That happens a lot to him...lol
  15. Yeah, I agree Andy. Two blokes in Sydney (bloody newsouthwelshman...lol) restored this Chrysler about 20 years ago. They've obviously went for the new style of clutch plate and friction material, possibly the clutch plate was given to a clutch re-builder without taking into account how well it would work with the flywheel and vintage style of pressure plate. I have two clutch assemblies at a professional clutch re-building shop here in Brisbane, hopefully they can make it to work. Plus I need it for the new engine re-build, the turning assembly will be balanced next week. woohoo!
  16. On closer inspection, it looks like it has made contact with the pressure plate. See arrow. As the fiction material wore down the rivets got closer to the inner circumference of the pressure plate. But it still doesn't explain why it would happen all of a sudden.
  17. Well it looks like I have had two issues. The original issue looks like a slight contact with the clutch plate rivets. But the new issue is probably a broken #5 or#6 piston or damaged/broken piston pin. In the words of a famous bush ranger, 'such is life'. After starting the engine and running for a few seconds it was obvious that there is a massive knock/rattle from the back of the engine.
  18. Checked the inlet and exhaust valves and their springs this morning, they all looked to be intact, moving freely and not broken....DOH!!!
  19. Thanks mate, but they all look to be intact, however, I cant be 100% sure until I pull the clutch assembly off.
  20. That is what I also assume it to be Andy, preload the fingers to the throw out bearing. Everything there seems to be aligned and functioning. Unless with centrifugal forces the springs lose their hold cause the fingers to re-position, but what would they make contact with.
  21. I have noticed in our local autoparts store an adaptor for your typical 1/2" wrench; Never used one before.
  22. Yes, the ring gear on the flywheel is very badly damaged from over the years, no damage at all on the starter gear, its relatively new bendix drive. The starter does occasionally get stuck in the ring gear. If the noise/rattle was from the ring gear then the sound would be much faster. No, the fingers are all correctly aligned, fairly common on the Chrysler brands, however, I believe (could be wrong) that the clutch plate is of a modern variety with the springs in the circle arrangement. It could be a clutch issue, which will be the next thing I check after running the motor without the gearbox attached. Flywheel is not loose.
  23. Yeah, its got me buggered Andy. I only have a few weddings remaining to do this year before I do the engine swap for the new one that is at the machinist. The engine turns freely by hand with no noise or rattle, its very smooth. All the main caps and conrod nuts seem secure and tight, there is some play in the big end caps but that is expected, its a very tired engine. The oil pump is secure and not loose in any way. The amount of noise that happened, there really should be metal filings or obvious visual damage somewhere. The clutch all looks good, the thrust (throw out) bearing moves smoothly when the pedal is pushed, and can be moved by hand, the return spring works as it should. I am considering unbolting the clutch assembly but everything looks fine. The pivot fingers are all good, still spring loaded with no obvious damage. I am considering bolting the oil pan back on and starting and running the engine with the gearbox off to hopefully see something odd.
  24. Well this noise rattle (was much louder and heavy sound) has reared its ugly head again, this time in a big way, had to be towed home. Luckily it happened after the wedding. It definitely sounded and felt like it was from the bell housing area, but after pulling the gear box out, there is no sign of any damage or obvious problem. Previously the rattle would slowly go away when I disengaged the clutch and slowed the car down. This time when I pulled over the rattle was still there while stationary. Turned the engine off and started it up, the rattle seemed like it was getting worse and even had trouble keeping idle. I dropped the flywheel inspection cover and the oil pan thinking I may have a very loose conrod big end, again no sign of any issue. Any ideas?

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use