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Everything posted by maok

  1. Your guess is incorrect. When the switch is off (open circuit), there is no power regardless of which side the +ve or -ve voltage is on. A 12v system, just like a 6v system can be +ve or -ve ground. Its some of you devices that care about the polarity ie. radio. My '28 Chrysler is 12v positive ground, the only two things that need attention is the wiper motor and the LED stop lights. Everything else does not care which way the electrons come from.
  2. How Many Drive Their Old Mopars In Rain

    Pffft to you all. Trying driving with external contracting brake bands in the rain.... But its does rain much around here...
  3. low oil pressure

    If your oil pressure got below 15psi, you would definitely notice the engine rattles, just like my '28...:(
  4. Edgy

    If you want it to sound 'lumpy' at idle, just turn your distributor clockwise a few degrees...:) And it doesn't cost much.
  5. I wish my 62 drives like your 52...
  6. Hey! Stop stealing our parts....
  7. strange starter problem

    When inspecting the ring gear turn the engine over to inspect all of the gear, there maybe some that are damaged. How do you know that the pinion gear did not release back?
  8. Aust. '28 Chrysler master cylinder

    Here is another pic showing where it bolts on to.
  9. Has been leaking ever so slightly from the boot (which was just staying together) and finally have had a chance to investigate. There was lots of grime and old hard oil inside the boot (probably from the tail shaft boot spraying the grease around the general area) and in the cylinder. I thought I would post these pics of the Australian version of the master cylinder for you LHD'ers The angle at which ours are mounted on the right hand side chassis rail.
  10. No Idle, etc

    Regarding your idle issue, have a play with distributor advance/retard, often with electronic ignition in your distributor, you need to adjust it to get it right. Have you used a timing light to see where the spark is at? For my '28 distributor there was no 'drop in' Pertronix kit, so I purchased one that was +gnd and lobe sensing (IIRC it was one for the 35 chev), pulled the module off the plate it was attached to and screwed it on to my breaker plate. It needed lots of adjustment of the advance to the original points setup.
  11. Oil priming... quick question

    Yes, no problem using a 12v battery on your starter. However, you are not really 'priming' the motor like that. The purpose of priming the motor with oil is that you force oil into all the oil galleries, bearing, etc, without the engine assembly turning.
  12. Try setting your MM to the lowest ohm setting.
  13. Hesitation woes continue

    Is it surging or hesitating?
  14. Electronic distributor

    Pertronix is very simple and quick to replace back to points. Shouldn't take no more than 10 minutes. So just keep your old points in the trunk/boot in case of the pertronix failure.
  15. 1955 plymouth V8 does not start when hot

    Have you checked your generator/alternator, it may not be supplying enough charge to your battery enough while running.
  16. Fuel Gauge Voltage

    To test the new sender unit, pull it out of the tank, connect your ohm meter on its terminal and its case (ground). Now move the float up and down to see if the resistance value changes with the movement. It should have an approximate range of 10-100ohm, but could be less or more . The sender unit is just a simple varying resistor. If its consistent and smooth then your problem lies else where. Your 3.7 volts seems too low at the sender, I would have thought that there shouldn't be that much voltage drop from before and after the fuel gauge.
  17. Grease..........is the word.

    You blokes need to invest in an older Mopar, none of that new stuff that you have. Its a lot easier on my '28...:)
  18. Just use the 4psi pump attached close to the fuel tank with an inline fuse.
  19. 4psi Will it be used full time or just as a primer? If its full time then a regulator would be a good idea as well.
  20. Hi all, I thought some of you blokes (and gals) would be interested in my engine build. I have been posting these on aaca site but there maybe some interested here. This is my first flathead rebuild, so any advice, tips, criticism, comments will be appreciated, my skin is very thick...:)
  21. This is the 2 piece lifter;
  22. OK, mystery solved. The lifter rack is removed by screwing in a bolt into the spacer/towel that holds up the rack on the side of the block and pulling this spacer out. And also, the lifters are 2 piece units. Can you spot the broken one?
  23. That means I need to use logic, in the words of the sage Homer - DOH!
  24. I will have another look today, hopefully its only some sludge or debris that is stopping it from going lower. But it feels a bit too high to be just sludge because the side of the cam journal is making contact with the side of the lifter head, not the face of the lifter. Regarding the removing the rack with all the lifters together, no such luck because the lifters protrudes up into the block ie, the block is cast around the pairs of lifters. So pulling the rack side ways causes the lifter heads to make contact with the side of the block.
  25. Sorry, I've used the wrong term. The cam journal is making contact with the lifter when the cam is pulled forward. So the lifter in its lowest position (the block is upside down) is not clearing the journal of the cam.