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maok

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Everything posted by maok

  1. True, an electric fuel pump running dry will burn out quickly, best to mount the electric fuel pump below the level to the bottom of the fuel tank.
  2. Any performance work done, ie milling the head for high comp., etc?
  3. Try NGKs B6S, cheap to buy, should work well.
  4. The pressure switch cannot be polarity sensitive, the the pressure from the brake fluid causes the switch to turn on, not the electrical supply.
  5. Had similar issues with my pressure switche/s, so I stalled a mechanical brake switch,
  6. I had the same situation when I was working on my '28 engine building. Lower the engine to a couple large timber long blocks on the floor resting along the sump bolts, still keeping the hoist attached to keep the engine falling sideways.
  7. You can also buy a fuel filter that does the same thing. One inlet and two out lets where the return line is a smaller orifice outlet. I believe Chrysler used it in later models, not sure when though.
  8. maok

    Starting it

    Do you have a battery cut-off switch? If so, maybe by-pass to see if there's an issue with it.
  9. I've measured my cars, generally around 250-300amps. State of tune makes a difference, get yourself a DC clamp meter to check yours.
  10. Those cheapie cut off switches with removable keys have a 12 month life, I replace mine on a regular basis when the starter starts struggling. They're only $10-$15 bucks.
  11. Try pulling the spark plugs out to minimize the load on the starter and see how it turns over.
  12. Only when or if your generator/alternator fails.
  13. You can go pertronix with 6volts too. The deep cycle is not ideal for your car.
  14. A Pertronix module will work too.
  15. You will get better and worth while efficiency from a quality tune up, bump in compression, and even a pertronix module in the distributor.
  16. The reason for this is that the electronic pickup (lobe sensing or hall effect magnets) maybe in a different position in the distributor to where the points were, hence the radical adjustment that maybe required. It doesn't mean you are actually advance by 30deg when adjusted and correctly timed.
  17. Just to add to sniper's post, generator/alternator won't output the full capability of it 99% of the time, only when needed, ie on start up to charge the battery. If you have a slightly loose fan belt you will notice it will slip and make noise on start up and then as the demand on the generator alternator is reduced the noise will go away, belt stops slipping.
  18. Not correct, both will do about the same power, regardless of voltage.
  19. 12v or 6v will make little difference, if at all, the power ( volt x amp) needed to replenish and supply to the electrical system will be about the same. Hence the drag on the engine will about the same. Electric fan with temp on off switch v constant engine driven fan is different story.
  20. You need to confirm when checking the TDC of #6 if its firing or exhaust stroke, you cant assume its exhaust stroke just because its #6 you are checking. If the distributor was installed correctly and the rotor points to #1 plug lead, therefore #1 piston is at TDC'ish or points to #6 lead then #6 is at TDC'ish. If you can't rely on the distributor being installed correctly then you need to confirm with the valve positions by removing the side plates to check. If #1 TDC then both valves will be closed completely, same applies to #6.
  21. Totally opposite for me on my 3 mopars. Pertronix module may have failed due to the ignition left on without starting.
  22. I have the Langdons conversion on both my mopars, '36 Airstream (241ci) and '37 Dodge MC tourer (218ci) both needed re jetting but I live in the subtropics. With the Airstream I needed to remove the manual choke assembly off the carb because it was making contact with the side of the hood. And in both the choke cable is a little too short. Once tuned correctly, they work very well with an electric fuel pump.
  23. And here is the final result.
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