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maok

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Everything posted by maok

  1. I have installed 3 Pertronix modules in 3 different mopars, '28 Chrysler with a generic module, '36 Airstream and a '37 MC Dodge, all 6 cylinders with simple 3 speed transmission, all have run perfectly for the last 3-6 years. Most issues with Pertronix installs are most likely installation error IMO. Sure, it can fail, so can any part in an old car. With your later mopar you need to do some research regarding the transmission work around. I have no experience with this setup.
  2. Just place the lead that normally fits into the distributor next to the engine block but not touching, then try to start the engine, you should see a spark from the lead to the engine block.
  3. Based on those readings, your coil is fine, double check by seeing if there is spark from the coil high tension lead to ground. It's probably the condenser.
  4. The distributor cap and the shaft bush can cause these types of issues. Also shaft cam wear.
  5. Check the whole mechanism of the float to the needle, there is something that is obviously binding. If you do switch to a weber, best to go for 38/38 not the 32/36. You will need some tuning capability or taking it to a weber specialist. They are a great carb as an alternative, I have them on my '36 Airstream and my '37 MC dodge tourer. Ideally you want a dual barrel manifold.
  6. I don't know about the Desoto models but the Chrysler versions had one with the rear quarter windows blanked out like above, IIRC referred to as a town car.
  7. I believe it's a '36 model DeSoto Airflow
  8. There should be anywhere between 1 to 2ohm resistance or 3 to 4ohm resistance across the primary ie + and - terminals, depending on which type of coil you have. For this reading, make sure your multimeter is set to the lowest reading ie 200ohm setting.
  9. If you are on Facebook, these guys may help you with more info, 1930-1950 Dodge/Plymouth in Australia (Early Mopar Only) | Facebook
  10. Also, highway speeds above 45mph is wasting a lot of fuel on pushing the wind with you.
  11. Also, if you purchase a coil with about 3ohm primary resistance then you won't need the ballast. With a ballast, you need a 1.5ohm coil, the above pictured one should be.
  12. The purpose of the ballast resistor is to minimize/reduce the points for burning, it steps the voltage down to about 9volts from +12v. Note, it will still work without a ballast but you would need to service/replace your points more regularly. It wasn't required on 6volt systems the voltage was low enough already.
  13. Good chance that your battery is not holding any charge and/or your generator is not supplying enough current(amps) even when you increase the rpm. Most generators will not supply enough current at idle, especially when switch your lights on.
  14. Just use a wire brush to clean the plugs.
  15. If you pulled the spark plugs out then turn the engine via the fan it will be much easier.
  16. Bob, you can remove the electric choke assembly and lock it in place, or as mentioned, install a manual choke assembly. I had to do this with my '36 Airstream because the choke was butting against the hood side. The other option you have is a 6v to 12v step-up transformer. FYI, I have the cheap Chinese one on my Airstream and the expensive genuine one on my '37. Though, I have the 38/38 weber, which is synchronous throttle control, imo, much better than the 32/36 which is asynchronous.
  17. Three changes I make to my cars; 1. Electric fuel pump (full time) and a regulator. 2. 12volt and alternator 3. Electronic ignition - Pertronix. If your fuel filter is clean then I would not bother with cleaning the fuel tank, though it wouldn't hurt. I am about to cut open and clean the tank on a '74 DS23 Citroen, it's been causing me all sorts of trouble.
  18. Have you considered www.autosurplus.com.au in Melbourne for some of the spares you need?
  19. If your ammeter is showing +20amp charge when you turn the lights on then the alternator is supplying the power through the ammeter across to the battery side then to your lights. Sniper is correct, you need to check your wiring. Ammeter simply shows which way the current/amps is flowing. When discharging, its going from battery to ammeter then to your circuits, when charging, its going from alternator to ammeter then to your battery ie after starting your engine with the starter motor. When your battery is fully charged the alternator is supplying all the amps to your circuits.
  20. Actually, alternators vary in their output (current/amp) at varying rpm as well, though much more than a generator. Generally, at about 2000rpm an alternator can only output about half its max output ie 60amp alternator has only about 30 amps available. This will vary from alternator to alternator. Usually a new alternator will come with a data performance sheet, check it out. When you install an alternator, you need to increase your idle speed to over 600-650rpm for it supply some amps. Try turning down the idle speed below 500rpm and observe your ammeter.
  21. The primary coil resistance (ie between the + and - terminals) should only be 1.5ohm or 3 ohm max
  22. The step down converters won't charge your battery. As mentioned, go the 6v alternator or the complete conversion to 12v.
  23. Yes, confirming #1 being at tdc is important, TDC marks could be out because of the damper, but unlikely imo. Your oil pump is not correctly indexed and hence why your rotor is pointing about 6:30 Its not that critical because you can adjust the body of the distributor and hence the cap #1 tower is at 6:30 then tune is normal.
  24. Hi Andy, both my dodge and airstream have the one wire alternator, rated at 100amps, work fine with the original 30amp ammeter. You will find that the alternators don't output anywhere near their highest output under 2000rpm, more like a 1/3 of the max rating
  25. The 32/36 is asynchronous ie primary (32) opens first then secondary (36), works well for economy and low speed, the 38 is synchronous ie both barrels open together, it should work better for the 2 barrel manifold. I have only tried both on a single barrel manifold, I prefer the 38 weber. Is that manifold for a 23" or 25"? I'm searching one for a 25"
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