maok
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Everything posted by maok
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Thanks Sniper, I do have an exploded diagram of the carb, not that much different to the updraft version, and I know that there should be another ball (larger) in there, however, I think it may not have been in there when I opened it up. Or most likely it has fallen out...lol
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I'm now wondering if it was in there after all.
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It's not a ground unit, you just wired it up to +ve and -ve wires of the unit and the speaker wires. I have mine stuck with double-sided tape to the back of the glove box.
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Yep, same, did it on my '37 Dodge couple months ago. Nice, neat, cheap and discrete setup.
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With more digging, the mystery is starting to reveal itself....lol It looks like someone in the past has left this longer needle in the bowl behind without realizing it. Or it was stuck somewhere they couldn't see....lol! It does not work in the seat in this carb, way too long Now, does anyone know where one of the check balls have gone...lol!
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That was my initial thought when I saw it on the bench, there is already one ilke yours in there and it's too long to be a the needle for this setup. It makes no sense of where it could have been fitted in the carb.
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Can any one identify this part, it fell out of my carb when I was adjusting the float level and giving the bowl a good clean. I cannot seem to figure out where it belongs. I also can't find it in any rebuild kit.
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Keen to know how it performs, I'm assuming its the weber 32/36 STYLE of carb conversion you are referring to. I am also considering this as well, keep us updated. I have the 6 volt alternator in my shed now, its more like 60% postage cost for me...:( I'm currently dummy fitting it for alignment, which is a PITA on the my '37 Dodge, was much easier on the '28 Chrysler. It looks like I need a different shaped top bracket, the one for the generator does not look to work.
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You sure about the last one? ?
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Ok, now I understand, you are wanting the fog lamps to flash as well, according to the above circuit.
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Why are you connecting the two circuits? I would have them separate so it's KISS.
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In 1928 Chrysler models had a series number, ie series 52(4 cyl), 62 (6 cyl 180cu), 72(6cyl 248 cu) & 80(6 cyl 308cu), the number represented the speed they could reach ie., 52, 62, 72, and 80mph. I would imagine your Dodge would be similar to one of these. I try not to go over 30mph in my 62, not that the engine couldn't do much more, its all the other systems that are not up to it ie. suspension, steering, centre of gravity, tyres etc.
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apologies, that looks to be a AC to DC controller. Here is DC to DC controller, http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=163644688086&category=71393&pm=1&ds=0&t=1582093078385&cspheader=1
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You need a DC motor speed controller, something like this, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-Module-Switch-Control-for-6V-12V-24V-28V-3A-O1U4/164086622417?epid=2244173619&hash=item26345328d1:g:W28AAOSwwJ1eS3rf It would probably need to be more than 3amp, more like 5amps
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This comment suggests that you don't understand. Google 'DC motor and voltage/current relationship' So its more a mechanical issue than an electrical issue?
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I don't think you understand the relationship between a DC motor and the voltage and current(amps) applied to it. Its not the voltage that 'kills it', its the current. The current increases in relation to the mechanical resistance to the motor, ie., if the motor is stalled then current goes up dramatically.
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You can run the 6volt wiper motor on 12 volts without any problems, it will spin faster, the amp draw will be slightly more.
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Here is some pics of the Dodge at a couple weddings we did on the weekend,
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Thanks for that. It measure almost 4". I wonder if that radial switch (1-4) is to adjust for different cylinder engines,ie., 2,4,6&8 cylinders?
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I purchased it at our large annual swap meet, can anyone identify what car or truck its from. Only markings on the back are AT-5001. The two nuts have insulating washers underneath and the two screws don't. The long threaded posts I assume are mounting studs.
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For future reference; Chrysler part number #601532 Cone = Timken #14125a Chrysler part number #43032 Cup = Timken #14276 Chrysler kit number #10546 = Timken 14125a/14276
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Thanks for that, I didn't think the CR was a brand name...lol After giving the bearing a good clean, bingo, part number. KOYO #14125A
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Hey guys, I have never done inner wheel bearings before, but it looks like I do need to replace the ones on my '37 Dodge MC, yes, its a truck chassis. Does any know the part number for the front inner wheel bearing and the seals, and the equivalent part numbers from timken, etc? The number seen on the pics is the seal only.
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There is a chance that one of the optima's was bad, ie., internal short, because you had them in parallel, this would have caused the other to go flat as well even when the alternator was trying to charge them.
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@Tony WestOZ Just the element mate. @JBNeal Awesome dude, that's exactly what I needed. I'm not home at the moment, I will check when I get back, its probably the first one. On the question of if its needed, well it wont hurt that's for sure.
