Jump to content

maok

Members
  • Content Count

    361
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About maok

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 06/02/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Land of Oz
  • My Project Cars
    1928 Chrysler series 62

Converted

  • Location
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Interests
    vintage

Recent Profile Visitors

1,432 profile views
  1. As been mentioned, the fans will turn faster, the current (amps) will be about the same. For the little use they will get I would just run them on 12 volts. Stick a 10amp fuse inline.
  2. My understanding is that you need total of 3 ohm primary coil resistance if 12 volts and total of 1.5 ohm primary coil resistance if 6 volts. So if you have a ballast resistor then you need to allow for this in your choice of coil or by-pass the ballast.
  3. In that pic, it looks like the magnetic ring is missing that should be over the cam lobes. Or, if the module is a lobe sensing unit then its way too far away from the cam lobes. Here is the site to search for the 6 volt model - pertronix site
  4. It should just be the condensor and points that you need to put back into the distributor. And some basic wiring change. Do you have pic of whats under the distributor cap presently?
  5. It's possible that your VR wasn't modified for the 8 volt battery and still outputs 7'ish volts and hence why your battery is going flat. If this is the case, then you could pop in a 6 volt battery, flash the generator for +ve ground and bob's your uncle. Even if your VR has been modified for 8volts, there wouldn't be a problem with running 6 volt battery. But do have it modified back to 7.5volt output. There maybe other reasons why your car isn't starting though.
  6. It's always good to walk away from it to clear the mind. When you have, 1. Confirm if the TDC pointer and TDC mark are correct by sticking a wire (foot long to make sure it doesn't fall down into the cylinder, I use the depth gauge of a vernier clapiers) down the plug hole above cylinder #6. The dizzy rotor should be pointing to #1 spark plug lead on the cap. Your previous posts about 20* advance seem a little dodgy...lol 2. Check the primary resistance of the ignition coil, does it meet Pertronixs specs? 3. Did you remove the condensor? 4. Is there a resistor in the ignition circuit from the previous points setup? Or ballast resistor? . . .
  7. You need someone who can do a proper full tune up.
  8. Measure the resistance (ohm) of the 'ballast resistor' not voltage.
  9. Pertronix has tests on their website you can do to see if the module is faulty or not. A simple test is to hook up a dwell meter on the coil, if you have a rock steady needle at about 38 degrees then the module is working fine. Have you checked the colour of your spark plugs? This can often lead you to your problem.
  10. I usually throw my wheels under for a fail safe.
  11. I do alot of cranking Andy..😁
  12. Have you had a crash to confirm it works? 🙄
  13. So, COTM (Chrysler on the Murray) next year?
  14. I cant recall when Chrysler went to all steel construction maybe 33-34, but this 77 is a timber construction with a steel veneer outer sedan body. The 77 with the "Pennon" type hood is my favourite model of all time, the art deco interior makes one feel like a gatsby.
  15. There must be two versions of the 77, I always thought that the hood sides had a different style of grilling to what you have pictured above.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use