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maok

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  • Content Count

    258
  • Joined

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About maok

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 06/02/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Land of Oz
  • My Project Cars
    1928 Chrysler series 62

Converted

  • Location
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Interests
    vintage

Recent Profile Visitors

941 profile views
  1. maok

    Generator

    Well they do have to pay for Jay's input.
  2. WTB 1929 Chrysler series 65 timing chain set View Advert Hi all, its a long shot but hey, you never know. Does any one know if this timing chain and/or gear set is availlable new from any vintage vendors? i have had a good look around but no luck so far. The chain looks to be common to Auburn 1927-33 engines as well. (not dodge) Or know of someone who has a spare they wish to turn into $$$$ Advertiser maok Date 01/14/2019 Price $123.00 Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad
  3. Time Left: 23 days and 9 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hi all, its a long shot but hey, you never know. Does any one know if this timing chain and/or gear set is availlable new from any vintage vendors? i have had a good look around but no luck so far. The chain looks to be common to Dodge 1930-32 engines as well. Or know of someone who has a spare they wish to turn into $$$$

    $123.00

  4. Update on the crank and bearing clearances, I took the engine block, crank and rods back to my machinist and they did their magic and now we have end play about 0.003" -0.004" end play, no binding of the crank with the bearings, and a happy Moe. Its tricky to install these pistons with rings from the inside of the block. Lucky this was a dummy up, I over tighten the piston pin bolt to 40ft-lp, should be 25-30ft-lb The other issuse that arised was the position of the oil filler tube on this older block, had my local engineer fabricate an attachment to the tube from the other engine. Now we can run the alternator again. Some opinions needed. Black valve covers to match the manifold or same colour as the engine block? Slight engine mod, ported the inlet of the inlet manifold about 2 mm and took off the casting marks of the outlets. The reason for this is that Brisbane is sub-tropical and hot, I can really notice the difference from day and night driving.
  5. maok

    52 cranbrook flathead 6

    Check your coil, if the -ve terminal is going to the distributor/points then your car probably has been running -ve ground setup, does not explain if it is 12 or 6 v though.
  6. maok

    Rebuilding engine

    You have the most interesting 'stock' rebuilt engine I have have ever seen, love to see your race engines....lol Looks awesome mate. Congratulation! Do you know how much they have taken off the head?
  7. I did a lot of fun stuff today. Clean, clean clean!!!! I am not happy with the state of the rod bolts and nuts from both engines, do you blokes know if any of the later 1934 onwards flat heads use the same rod bolts and nuts. These have a side cut to the head of the bolt with hole for a split pin at the end, and have castle nuts. When I was pulling this engine apart over two years ago I mentioned that the timing case was modified and the timing chain was not around the generator gear because an altenator (or a later model generator) was attached to the left side of the engine and ran off the fan belt, like later models in the Chrysler family. Here is a comparison of the timing chain and cam gears. Left is the original that would also go around the generator gear, the right just goes around the crank gear. Gear on the right bolts up with 3 bolts. The two camshaft gears on top of each other, you can see how they are a different gear set (the top one is a smaller diameter) with a different pitch to the tooth. I think I have a decision to make.
  8. One mystery solved regarding the orientation of the conrods. Maybe I should read my manual more....🙄
  9. Gee, I wouldn't want to be on your list mate....lol No, none of them were your cousin Robin Orlando....lol 2mm drill bit fixed the oiling hole on the big end of the rod....😉
  10. The bloke who did the bearings did the line bore and another bloke did the machining of the block. This is the reason why I have checking and cleaning everything Andy, the oiling hole of the big end of the crank is full of solder/babbitt material.
  11. Ford Model A engine head studs - left (don't tell @Andydodge), almost the same size but might need to use a washer under nut. Cleaning out the cylinder head threads. I was mazed that you couldn't get a thread chaser at quality tool stores, so I made my own. Checking for blockage in the main bearing oil hole, then a little clean out.
  12. Gaffer tape should fix this one...🙄
  13. Anyone know what this hole is designed for? The old engine was gummed up with oil and grease. This is the reason why you check everything before installing. Lucky it was only 4 of the rods...🙄 The old rod big end oil hole, much small than the new one. What is the best orientation of the small end of the rods? Four options I guess, all bolts facing to the front, all bolts facing to the rear, bolts alternating from 1 to 6 or bolts alternating with like cylinders, ie 1&6 etc.
  14. #6 piston rattle...😲
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