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johnsartain last won the day on December 10 2017

johnsartain had the most liked content!

About johnsartain

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 07/11/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sierra Vista AZ
  • Interests
    Into Motorcycles and off road, woodworking
  • My Project Cars
    2000 Dodge Durango, 1950 Dodge Model B-2-B, 1965 Rambler Classic

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    57 years old father of 4
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer


  • Location
    Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Off Road, Old Cars, and Old Trucks

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593 profile views
  1. I'll try to document my adventure in removal of a stuck oil pressure relief valve for others who may have a similar problem. Many of you will not have to go to the extremes I did and only need to try some of them. Maybe this will be a source to consider should you ever encounter similar problems. Symptoms: Excessive oil pressure can be noted by a pegged oil gauge. If your engine is equipped with an oil filter, oil may be forced past the oil filter gasket. Spin on filters may blow the gasket out of the oil filter no mater how much you tighten the filter. The high oil pressure reading may be only at startup and may be followed by low oil pressure afterward. Oil pressure relief valves can stick both ways, sticking closed at startup and open after warm up and exhibit low oil pressure. Remedy: An initial attempt at determining how stuck your relief valve is can give you some clue as to how far you will have to go to fix your problem. A newly installed relief valve that is well lubricated should easily slip in and out of its bore by inserting the tip of you pinky finger and pulling it out. In my case I started with it completely stuck and rusted fast. The best advice to start with is to attempt to lodge a 1/4 npt pipe tap into the end of the relief valve piston. the tip of the pipe tap may need to be ground down to facilitate a tight fit without bottoming out in the end of the piston. Use an open end or adjustable wrench to turn the pipe tap while taping the square end of the tap. The metal the piston is constructed of is case hardened and the threads of the tap will have difficulty biting into the metal. With a flash light, look past the tap to see if the piston is turning in the bore. If not, spray with PB Blaster and continue to work it alternating spraying and tapping the tap while turning it with a wrench. At some point if you are failing to make headway, it may be necessary to apply heat. The ability to concentrate as much heat to the inside of the relief valve piston will reap the most reward. An Acetylene torch will work best if you are fortunate enough to have one. Mapp gas can also work but you will not be able to concentrate the flame as much. Alternating the method mentioned in the last paragraph and heating with the torch. I found for my case which was one of the more extreme I had to heat the piston to red and allow it to cool before using the pipe tap and tapping. It may take a while but several heatings and coolings will gradually help to loosen the stuck valve. Do not heat the metal so much that you are seeing the metal melt and flow. Heat it slowly to red, and let it cool. The heating of the metal will serve two purposes. First the heating and contracting of the metal affects the hardened piston and the cast block differently. The piston will expand in the bore of the cast block and spread the bore slightly. as the metal cools the casting will tend to retain it shape while the hardened metal will more/less return to its original shape. The piston will also lose its hardness or temper making it easier for the pipe tap to get a bite. I'm my case the piston lost enough temper and the pipe tap got enough bite that the piston could then turn in its bore. I the used some emery cloth to shine up what was visible of the bore. I chucked the pipe tap in a drill and began working the pipe tap/piston back and forth in bore and gradually was able to pull the piston out. I cleaned up the bore best that I could so that the new piston was able to move freely in the bore. There were no easy remedy's in my case. Persistence and elbow grease, an acetylene wrench, accompanied with a little percussive persuasion was what it took to get the job done.
  2. Holy crap! Glass prices

    Ah... So death by a thousand cuts. Tempered and Laminated glass are both safety glass. The phrases tend to get thrown around loosely and depending on the part of the country you come form it a tomato/potato thing. Franks answer seems to hit the nail on the head. The reason for my asking was that after replacing my windows with laminated, there is resistance to rolling the glass up and down. It could be that the seals I got for the door glass were actually set up for Tempered glass thickness which is a bit thinner than the lammie.
  3. Holy crap! Glass prices

    That kit is a very good price. I did not see where it specified but are the door and vent window glass safety or laminated? My son works for a glass company who cut mine. Although I got a discount, I wouldn't have balked at that price.
  4. Camshaft and Crank Oiling modification

    What is the ISBN number for that book, there are 4 of them, just to make sure I get the right one.
  5. Camshaft and Crank Oiling modification

    That isn't it but it does make a lot of sense. I think I will replace my cam bearings and set them up that way. Opening up the timing sprocket oiler tube a bit sounds like a good idea as well.
  6. Camshaft and Crank Oiling modification

    Thank you, I found it. I wonder if the part mentioned is still available or what the specs on it would be.
  7. engine year help

    Is this part to restrict the oil to the camshaft still available?
  8. I know that I have read this on the site but I can't recall whether it was the truck forum or the auto forum. Either way, I can't find it. I recall reading that someone recommended adding an orifice to the oil way leading from the crank to the camshaft. The reasoning was that it helped to ensure that there was ample oil supply to the mains and connecting rods. Has anyone else seen this thread and can you point me that way?
  9. vacation

    After years of Photo shopping his head onto Fabio Lanzoni's body for posting on dating sites, Don has finally devolved into this, tsk, tsk!
  10. Front axle castle nut

    Of what I have seen in this thread, drilling a new hole sounds like a pretty sound solution. Another option that I haven't see mentioned is to remove the outer race from the hub and take the disc and hub to a machine shop to have the outer bearing seat cut about a quarter inch (or whatever it would take to get the setback needed) deeper. That extra depth should give the necessary clearances to use the nut as designed. You will no longer have a stock hub but if the brakes are maintained properly, you should never have to replace them in your life time. If you do, just take the new set to a machine shop for the same treatment.
  11. Off topic hobbies

    As you can see, I have an obsession as well. Motorcycles and Powersports
  12. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    Steve, Care to sell a choke or throttle cable and choke knob, nut included? Let me know of you can.
  13. Same here, Actually I bought stainless carriage bolts. They worked great and no slot. The square was large enough to press into the metal without turning.