johnsartain

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About johnsartain

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 07/11/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sierra Vista AZ
  • Interests
    Into Motorcycles and off road, woodworking
  • My Project Cars
    2000 Dodge Durango, 1950 Dodge Model B-2-B, 1965 Rambler Classic

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    56 years old father of 4
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer
  1. I looked at that. The new holes would have been half on - half off the flywheel's clutch face. I just ordered the clutch kit. Your good on what you're doing DJ, drilling and tapping a 11" to 10 " works good.
  2. I installed the 146 tooth flywheel this evening and it did the trick! The starter engages perfectly with the flywheel. If I had found the information that wayfarer had posted prior to setting up the engine and bellhousing, it would have been a real timesaver. I have to order a 10" clutch kit to finish the job. The other flywheel took an 11" clutch. I know some of you guys are probably saying the stock clutch is a 10" clutch. The 172 tooth was drilled for both so I opted for the larger. I have adapted a NP 435 to fit the stock bellhousing. I am using a clutch and pressure plate for a 1989 Dodge D150 with 23 splines. It was bolted up and working with the other flywheel and here's hoping there aren't any more problems. Here is a picture of the setup so far.
  3. Here is the scoop Don and all who have helped. It is a 172 tooth flywheel. I guess my only choice is to find a 146 tooth flywheel unless there is a bendix I can change out to work with the 172 tooth and that starter. An further information anyone can give out can surely help. Update... I do have a 146 tooth flywheel on hand, needs resurfaced but looks like it will work. I take it to the machine shop and get it cleaned up and give that a go. Starter teeth seem to mesh much better.
  4. Don, No this engine is pure 218 all the way. As far as I can tell it was likely the original engine for the truck, I think T172, not where I can look at it at the moment. I also have a P18 and a P23 coded engine, both 218's. The flywheel and crankshaft came from the P23. All crankshafts are 4 bolt cranks. I was just noting the length of the starter in saying it was a tight fit between the bell housing and the Oil Filter return tubes. I was speculating that the starter may have been designed for one of the 25 inch blocks
  5. Don Coatney, I may be experiencing the same thing as you did because I did try using my Jumpstarter to crank the engine over. I could have spun the starter too fast and caused it to crash with the flywheel rather than engage it. What kind of Cold Cranking amps and Amp Hours do I need for the 6V battery system. I can give that a try. The bind I may have experienced could have been 146 teeth trying to turn a 9 tooth starter drive. That would be sort of tough I think. Plymouthy, I bought this project as a truck in a box so to speak. 2 engines mostly parts, no bell housings, or starters. Both blocks locked up tight with rust after sitting uncovered outdoors for a few years. Not having the starters I had to just look to see what I could find. As mentioned above, I believe I found an original type MCH 6106 that I am going to try, but I would like to have a key start over the pedal start if possible. When the MCH 6106 comes in I will compare to the chrysler one I have to think that this one may be for the 25 inch block as the starter for the Chrysler is tough to get in and out. The back hits the oil return lines from the filter. Wayfarer, It may very well be for the 172 tooth flywheel rather than the 146 tooth. It is a 9 tooth bendix but i will check the diameter / circumference of the gear when the MCH 6106 arrives Wednesday Thanks for your help here and I will keep you posted when I find out.
  6. Since I have someones attention, here's some question. I recently purchased a 6V Chrysler starter with 9 teeth for my truck, the type that required a starter solenoid. Upon installation I discovered that the gear hit the teeth on the flywheel ring but did not engage. I took the starter out and the Bendix was in the engaged position. I reinstalled the starter and was not able to turn the engine by hand or wrench. I removed the starter and was able to turn the engine. I seems that the Starters Bendix gear was putting the engine in a bind. The re-builder told me that the 12v starter had a smaller 9 tooth gear and output shaft and wondered if mine had been converted to 12v? From what I have read on the forum I have not found anyone who would have made any difference between 6v and 12v starters particularly as far as the Bendix goes. Both vehicles are supposed to be 218's with 146t flywheels. The questions are: Are there differences in the diameter of the tooth portion of the Bendix's? Are there any differences in the diameter of the flywheel? Are there any differences in the bell housings as far as where center to center of the crank and starter shaft measure? I'm just trying to get a feel for where the problem may be.
  7. I know some of these post are a year old or older, Just though I would give a source for a starter should anyone need one Wilson has a replacement for the MCH6106 Prestolite starter. It is part number 91-06-1821. I found one at http://www.filterspro.com/detail.cfm?part=2027675 and ordered it, I will update the post if possible when it comes in. This company carries various parts for tractors and lift trucks so its reasonable that the part might interchange. O'Reillys carries the same starter under special order, $70 more plus $50 core at http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIL0/91061821.oap?ck=Search_mch6106_-1_3090&keyword=mch6106