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johnsartain

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johnsartain last won the day on October 14

johnsartain had the most liked content!

About johnsartain

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 07/11/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sierra Vista AZ
  • Interests
    Into Motorcycles and off road, woodworking
  • My Project Cars
    2000 Dodge Durango, 1950 Dodge Model B-2-B, 1965 Rambler Classic

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    57 years old father of 4
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Off Road, Old Cars, and Old Trucks

Recent Profile Visitors

255 profile views
  1. First start up.

    Yes, I did bench bleed the MC. I figure you're right on the cracks at the fold. One of the main reasons for going to the copper-nickel line. I probably couldn't spot the crack if my life depended on it. I did reuse one of the old lines that looked ok but from what I hear they can have a lot of corrosion in the inside.
  2. First start up.

    Today I started the engine for the first time even though I have had the engine built for quite a while, I am still working on the gas tank but there's nothing wrong with filling the float bowl and pouring a little fuel into the body of the carb. After retarding the timing from where it was it hit right off the bat. I had to fight an oil leak at the filter because I thought I never would get it tight enough. There was good oil flow though as it didn't take long to make a good puddle in the floor. Whenever I get the fuel tank and enough gas to keep it running for a while I can set the timing with the timing light. I had worked most of the morning trying to bleed out the brake lines without any luck. I had used steel brake lines which is all the parts houses in these parts had. I must have a air leak because vacuum bleeding makes it worse. I can get enough pressure to turn on the brake lights, but that's about it. I tightened all of the lines to the point something is about to strip out. I think rather than more brute force I will just back up and get some copper-nickel lines from Summit. I have all new wheel cylinders, a new 2 stage master cylinder, new combination/proportioning valve and residual valves on each end. I don't see fluid leaks, I just can't get any pressure. Any pointers guys?
  3. Southern AZ B2B Build Thread

    No, they're American Racing Outlaw Rims, they don't make them any more so I am told. The center caps have American Racing Logo's. I had those given to me for hauling off junk from a co-workers garage. I was just going to use them to roll it in and out of the shop but they are sort of growing on me.
  4. Southern AZ B2B Build Thread

    Last weekend I installed carpet and pad, and Friday night I got newly upholstered seats and installed them. While I was at it I also had to work on the clutch as the socket head cap screws that held the bearing retainer to the transmission were too tall and interfered with the clutch fork. I removed them and installed button head socket cap screws. They have a shorter profile, fixing the problem and gave full travel of the clutch pedal. Today I will install the seat belts and work on the door panels. I have some edge glued tongue and groove cedar I need to cut to size and finish. I ahm also going to bleed the brakes which I haven't done since I reworked the brake assembly. All that's left is the gas tank but I may fill the float bowl, start it up and give it a spin around the yard.
  5. Southern AZ B2B Build Thread

    I sent the Gauges off to B1B Keven a few week ago and recently got them back in tip top shape. They look as good as new! I have them installed. All I lacked on that was a fitting to the back of the oil gauge and thanks to Jerry Roberts for his help on obtaining that.
  6. Steering wheel adapter

    Making an assumption that your steering wheel is black plastic with a metal rod core, then using the steering wheel as is should not be a real big issue as long as the metal rod core has not been compromised. Typically the core is in good shape. The real issues is that the steering wheel looks ugly. VPW has 17" black plastic steering wheels, some of the keyed variety, some with splines, all to fit different size shaft. Their price is $195 if one will work. Getting set up with everything for a grant steering wheel could easily cost just as much. Beside the steering wheel you're looking at a mounting kit and a horn kit.
  7. Not just your common UNI-SYN

    They still make them, I bought one from sears back about 1980 to balance the carbs in my MG Midget. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Edelbrock-4025-Uni-Syn-Carburetor-Synchronizing-Tool,267.html for $29.99
  8. Photos of my B2B

    You can also resize the image in Paint. Resizing to a different resolution will reduce the size in kb/mb of the picture.
  9. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    Yeah, no problem, done just like that.
  10. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    Thats the one and its what I I thought it was. Mine was missing the parking brake cable. at some point when I change rear ends I have to figure out how to tie the parking brake handle to the rear end. That'll be a hoot I bet.
  11. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    I am curious about what the bracket attached to the frame is holding and what it goes to/where it come from. I have that same bracket but it isn't attached to anything. I cant think of anything it may go to with the exception of maybe the Hand brake cable.
  12. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    That is the oil pump. If you will take notice it is aligned with the distributor in the opposite side of the motor. In these engines the gear is on the oil pump rather than the distributor which can make timing the engine a bit trickier if the oil pump is removed as the top of the oil pump shaft is slotted for the end of the distributor shaft.
  13. There is a woodruff key that keeps its position in relation to the shaft
  14. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    2nd row below is likely the fresh air damper and the water valve for the heater.
  15. I never was a believer much in the bad gas thing until a couple of years ago. I had a dirt bike that had sat over a year that I guess I forgot to put sta-bil in as I usually do. I got it out and tried to kick it over, with no luck. I had spark, compression, fuel I could hear ot sloshing in the tank. I decided to look in the tak to see ho much was there and it smelled like old paint thinner. I drained it and walla! I started first kick. I wound up cleaning the carb out because it had a problem idling. Probably gummed up the idle jet.
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